farming heartland:A magnet for immigrant farmers from Sweden and other Scandinavian countries in the 1800s, these fertile blackland prairies and small towns are rapidly evolving into bedroom communities for Austin commuters. Some of the agrarian spirit remains, however, and family farms coexist alongside housing developments and shopping malls.
Hutto, east of Austin, was once just another blackland farming community. For years the town was, well, pretty much just a wide spot in the road on US 79 between Round Rock and Taylor. Things changed, though, with both the booming of Austin’s population and the construction of TX 130. Today Hutto’s population boom makes it one of the country’s fastest growing communities.
Just a block off US 79, though, you’ll find “old” Hutto, with historic buildings and small-town atmosphere. You also might spot something a little unusual for a small Texas town: hippo statues. More than 150 of them grace Hutto, ranging from a giant hippo at the Hutto High School to smaller “yard hippos” in front of many businesses and private homes.
Why the hippos? According to local legend, a hippo escaped from a circus train near Hutto around 1915 and was recovered in a local creek. The residents seemed to fall in love with the idea of hippos and soon named their football team the Hutto Hippos (complete with the only hippo football mascot in Texas).
where to go
Henrietta the Hippo Statue. East Street. It’s not just anyplace you can pose with a 14,000-pound hippo statue, but here’s your chance. This concrete hippopotamus in downtown Hutto was placed here by the chamber of commerce and serves as the town’s most popular photo op.
Hutto Heritage Museum. 122 East St.; (512) 759-4400; huttochamber.com. Located in the chamber of commerce office, the museum traces local history through photos and documents. Don’t miss the mural on the side of the building that recalls the famous hippo story. Open weekdays 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Free admission.
Self-paced Hippo Tour. No, we did not make this up. If Henrietta the Hippo isn’t enough for you, enjoy a self-guided tour of the 300-plus hippo statues in Hutto, including Farmer Hippo, Dalmatian Hippo, and even Army Hippo. You’ll find a link with a map on the Hutto Convention and Visitors Bureau website, visithutto.com.
Taylor’s biggest claim to fame is its International BBQ Cook-Off in August. (See Festivals and Celebrations at the back of this book.) It also was the hometown of former Texas governor Dan Moody as well as Bill Pickett, an African-American cowboy born in 1860. Pickett originated the practice of “bulldogging”—throwing a bull by twisting its head until it falls. The well-known cowboy also had a habit of biting a steer’s upper lip, a trick called “biting the bull” that he practiced on the rodeo circuit.
where to go
Moody Museum. 114 W. Ninth St.; (512) 352-8654; moodymuseum.com. Governor Dan Moody was born in this 1887 home, which today is filled with his furniture and personal belongings. He went to law school at the University of Texas, served in World War I, then returned to become governor at the age of 33. The hometown hero was best known for prosecuting members of the Ku Klux Klan in Williamson County. Open Tues and Sun 2 to 5 p.m. and by appointment. Free admission.
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smokin’ in taylor |
| Don’t be alarmed during an August visit if you see smoke rising from the Central Texas town of Taylor, located northeast of Austin. That just means it’s time again for the annual International BBQ Cook-Off, and contestants from around the Lone Star State are firing up their pits. With military-like precision, using recipes so carefully guarded it would make the Pentagon jealous, these cooks try their hand at preparing the best smoky delectables. | |
| In a state where you can hardly throw a sausage link without hitting a cook-off, Taylor’s is one of the largest and also one of the most prestigious. It draws some of the state’s best pitmasters. Although there are no cash prizes, up to 100 teams show up every year to compete for cooking trophies plus prizes for show-manship. Besides the prestige of being able to claim the best brisket, poultry, lamb, goat, pork ribs, seafood, or wild game, the teams come for the pure enjoyment of the competition. | |
| Using secret spices, the pitmasters season the meats and start the slow process of smoking over their chosen wood. Many cooks stay up through the night basting, or “mopping,” the meat with marinade to keep it from drying. | |
| Judging takes place on Saturday afternoon, and once the judging is completed, the real fun begins. Cooks are encouraged, although they are not required, to provide the public with a sample of their craft. In the relaxed atmosphere after the judging, cooks also enjoy talking about the art of barbecuing, sometimes even sharing tips and secrets. |
Murphy Park. 1600 Veterans Dr.; (512) 352-3675. This 120-acre park is right in town but a quiet retreat for a picnic or a little birding on the shores of City Lake. Free admission.
where to eat
Louie Mueller Barbecue. 206 W. Second St.; (512) 352-6206; louiemuellerbarbecue.com. One of the most authentic barbecue joints in Texas, where diners eat off white butcher paper in a room decorated with free calendars and a corkboard filled with business cards (all imbued with enough smoke to give them the color of a grocery sack). But none of that matters. What matters is the barbecue: brisket, sausage, pork ribs, and steak. Open Mon through Sat for lunch and (early) dinner. $.
Masfajitas. 2600 W. Second St.; (512) 352-9292; masfajitas.com. If you’re looking for an alternative to Taylor’s barbecue joints, you can opt for some mainstream Tex-Mex here. Start with a frozen margarita and tortilla soup or chile con queso appetizer, then select a plate of enchiladas, tamales, or burritos. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $–$$.
Taylor Cafe. 101 N. Main St.; (512) 352-2828. This local eatery has the atmosphere of a small-town diner—from its ceiling fans to its pool tables to the members of the local police force who often have lunch here. Barbecue is the house specialty in this no-frills joint known locally as “Vencil’s” for owner Vencil Mares, who opened for business in 1948. Credit cards are not accepted, so bring cash. $.
When oil was discovered in 1915, more than 200 wells were drilled and Thrall’s population skyrocketed. As the saying goes, what goes up must come down, and Thrall was back on its way down as soon as oil production diminished. Today it’s once again a quiet spot on US 79, composed of a few blocks of homes that run parallel to the railroad.
where to go
Stiles Farm Foundation. US 79, east of Thrall; (512) 898-2214; agrilife.org/sff. This 2,600-acre farm is administered by the Texas A&M University AgriLife Extension Service. Here new techniques are demonstrated to area farmers and ranchers. Visitors can take guided tours to see everything from hog raising to cotton growing. This is a great chance to have a look at an operating Texas farm and ranch. Call for an appointment. Free admission.