lost pines:One of Texas’s natural anomalies, the Lost Pines forest is the westernmost stand of loblolly pines in America. Scientists believe that these trees were once part of the forests of East Texas, but climatic changes over the last 10,000 years account for the farmland now separating the Lost Pines from their cousins to the east.
Originally a small town located 11 miles west of Bastrop, the Cedar Creek area has spread north, reaching TX 71. The town was first settled in the 1830s as a farming community tucked between piney woods and blackland prairies. Cedar Creek’s early population peaked at around 600 in the late 1800s, when it became a shipping terminal for cotton and other agriculture. Although some petroleum deposits were discovered in the early 1900s, the town gradually declined until recent times when suburban development from Bastrop began to rapidly populate the Cedar Creek area.
where to go
The Dinosaur Park. 893 Union Chapel Rd.; (512) 321-6262; thedinopark.com. This attraction features—you guessed it—life-size dinosaur replicas in an outdoor setting that kids will enjoy. Other activities include a fossil dig, playground, picnic area, and the Dinosaur Store. Hours change with the seasons and public school schedules, varying from weekends only to daily. Fee.
McKinney Roughs Nature Park. 8 miles west of Bastrop at 1884 TX 71; (512) 303-5073; lcra.org. A favorite with both hikers and equestrians, this 1,100-acre park preserves several ecosystems as well as extensive riparian habitat along the Colorado River. Open daily 8 a.m. to sunset. Fee.
where to shop
Berdoll Pecan Candy and Gift Company. 2626 TX 71 West; (800) 518-3870; berdollpecanfarm.com. For over 30 years this unique shop on TX 71 has sold all things pecan, from the nuts themselves (grown in their own pecan orchards located nearby) to pies, candies, and a myriad of other items. If you happen by when they are closed, never fear, a vending machine on the front porch sells several of their items, including pecan pies! Open daily 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Jan through mid-Mar, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. mid-Mar through Dec.
where to stay
Hyatt Regency Lost Pines Resort and Spa. 575 Hyatt Lost Pines Rd. (13 miles east of Austin-Bergstrom International Airport on TX 71); (512) 308-1234; lostpines.hyatt.com. This luxury destination resort, located near McKinney Roughs, offers 491 guest rooms and a distinctive Central Texas atmosphere. The hotel spans over 400 acres and offers an equestrian center, an Arthur Hills–designed golf course, rafting on the Colorado River, supervised children’s programs, a full-service spa, and more. $$$.
To reach Bastrop from Cedar Creek, continue east on TX 71. Unlike the juniper-dotted hills to the west or the rolling farmland to the east, the Bastrop area is surrounded by a pine forest called Lost Pines. Bastrop holds the honor as one of the oldest settlements in the state, built in 1829 along the Camino Real, a road also known as the King’s Highway and the Old San Antonio Road. This was the western edge of the “Little Colony” established by Stephen F. Austin. Settlers came by the wagonload from around the country to claim a share of this fertile land and to establish homes in this dangerous territory. Even as houses were being built, American Indian raids continued in this area for many years.
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bastrop’s lost lost pines |
| In September 2011, during a prolonged period of drought, a devastating wildfire swept through the Bastrop area, scorching 32,000 acres, including 96 percent of Bastrop State Park, and destroying 1,600 homes. Two people lost their lives and many more were threatened by the fast-moving inferno. Smoke plumes from the fire were seen and photographed from the International Space Station. Local firefighters were joined by hundreds more from across the nation to fight the blaze, and dueto their efforts, the park’s iconic rustic cabins, which were built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps, were spared. | |
| In the fire’s aftermath, Bastrop’s Lost Pines area faces a long road to recovery, a process that will take decades to complete. Erosion of the exposed soil is a concern, as is the survival of the endangered Houston toad, an endemic species of the Lost Pines. | |
| Fortunately recovery efforts are well under way, including replanting loblolly pine seedlings and removing damaged adult trees that could present a hazard to park visitors. Easing of the drought conditions has resulted in new plant growth over the burn and the return of native wildlife. Many volunteer groups have worked with the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department to aid the recovery. Individuals who wish to be part of the rebirth of the Lost Pines can find ways to help through the TPWD web-site: tpwd.texas.gov/spdest/findadest/parks/bastrop/fire. | |
| The park is again open to visitors. |
Bastrop is a popular day trip for Austinites looking for a chance to shop and savor some quiet country life in a historic setting. Outdoor-lovers can enjoy two nearby state parks as well as the Colorado River, which winds through the heart of downtown. Canoe rentals and guided trips along the river are available.
where to go
Bastrop Visitor Center. 904 Main St.; (512) 303-0904; visitbastroptx.org. Bastrop’s visitor center is located in a historic 1930s building that has served as a fire station, jail, tax office, and city hall. Now it is the headquarters of the Bastrop County Historical Society and offers information on Bastrop attractions, accommodations, and events and houses the Bastrop County Historical Society Museum. Open daily. Free admission.
Bastrop County Historical Society Museum. 904 Main St.; (512) 303-0904; bastropcountyhistoricalsociety.com. For over 50 years the historical society has collected artifacts and documents that trace the history of Bastrop and Bastrop County, including Native American items. The museum is housed in the same building as the visitor center. Open daily. Free admission; donations accepted.
Bastrop Opera House. 711 Spring St.; (512) 321-6283; bastropoperahouse.com. Built in 1889, this building was once the entertainment center of town. Today the historic structure is the cultural center of Bastrop, the site for live theater ranging from mysteries to vaudeville. Call for information on group tours, which are available by appointment.
Bastrop State Park. 100 Park Road 1A (1.5 miles east of Bastrop); (512) 321-2101 or (512) 389-8900; tpwd.state.tx.us. Long a favorite among Texas state parks for its beautiful Lost Pines setting, a wildfire in 2011 impacted much of the park’s 3,500 acres. Reconstruction efforts have resulted in most of the park being reopened, including hiking trails, the golf course, campsites, and the park’s iconic 1930s-built stone and cedar CCC cabins. (Unfortunately floods in 2015 destroyed the dam that formed the 10-acre fishing lake.) The cabins feature fireplaces, bathrooms, and kitchen facilities. Despite the fire’s effects, the cabins remain very popular, so book well in advance. Open daily. Fee.
June Hill Pape Riverwalk. Enjoy this nature walk along the banks of the Colorado River. Opened in 1998, the half-mile trail features a variety of trees, native plants, and wildflowers. It is accessible from either Fisherman’s Park (1200 Willow St.) or Ferry Park (502 Water St.). Free admission.
North Shore Park, Lake Bastrop. 603 FM 1441 (3 miles east of Bastrop via TX 95 and FM 1441); (800) 776-5272 or (512) 498-1922; lcra.org. Day travelers and overnight campers can use this Lower Colorado River Authority (LCRA) park on the 900-acre lake. Facilities include campsites, RV sites, group pavilions, a two-lane boat ramp, a fishing pier, playgrounds, trails, and more. Fishing for largemouth bass, catfish, and perch is a popular activity. Open daily. Fee.
South Shore Park, Lake Bastrop. 375 South Shore Rd. (east of Bastrop via TX 21 and FM 352); (800) 776-5272; lcra.org. This popular LCRA park on Lake Bastrop includes restrooms, showers, a group facility, hike/bike trails, picnic facilities, and a boat ramp. Open daily. Fee.
where to shop
Apothecary’s Hall. 805 Main St.; (512) 321-3022. Shop in this downtown store for antiques ranging from collectibles to furniture. It is located in a historic building that dates to the 1830s. Open daily.
Buc-ee’s. 1700 TX 71 East; (979) 230-2920; bucees.com. OK, it’s not often that we consider a gas station and convenience store guidebook-worthy, but then Buc-ee’s is no ordinary convenience store. This Texas-size convenience store / gift shop is an attraction in itself due to its sheer size. Not only filled with every kind of road-trip muchie you could imagine, the store also features all things Texas, from cookbooks to jewelry to gourmet gifts. Open 24 hours daily.
Eclectic Perfection. 601D Chestnut St.; (617) 797-5701; sgrantcs3.wix.com/eclecticperfection. This boutique offers a wide array of merchandise including boots, hats and accessories, pottery, and vintage and modern jewelry. Open Tue through Sat.
where to eat
Maxine’s on Main. 905 Main St.; (512) 303-0919; maxinesonmain.com. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Maxine’s has become a beloved fixture in downtown Bastrop. The restaurant is known for its griddle cakes, burgers, chili, and homemade pie. Live music is featured nightly on weekends. Open daily. $–$$.
where to stay
Bastrop State Park Cabins. 100 Park Road 1A (1.5 miles east of Bastrop); (512) 389-8900; tpwd.state.tx.us. These picturesque stone and cedar cabins were built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps from native materials. They feature rustic fireplaces, bathrooms, and kitchen facilities. Note: Due to their popularity, cabins should be booked well in advance. $$.
Pecan Street Inn Bed and Breakfast. 1010 Pecan St.; (512) 321-3315; pecanstreetinn.com. Located just 2 blocks from downtown, this stately Victorian offers rooms and suites featuring antique furniture, heart-pine floors, and high ceilings. All have modern amenities, some with fireplaces. $$–$$$.
Continue east from Bastrop on TX 71 to Smithville, a small town built alongside the railroad tracks at the edge of the piney woods and home of Buescher State Park. Smithville was once a riverboat ferry stop on the Colorado. In the 1880s the railroad replaced the ferries as the main mode of transportation, and tracks were laid across town. Today the railroad still plays an important part in Smithville’s economy.
Beginning with the Sandra Bullock movie Hope Floats in 1997, Smithville has been the backdrop for several Hollywood productions, including Terrence Malick’s Tree of Life in 2011. In fact, this small town was the first Texas town honored as a Film Friendly Community by the Texas Film Commission.
where to go
Buescher State Park. 3 miles north of town, via TX 71 and FM 2104, or access from Park Road 1; (512) 237-2241; tpwd.state.tx.us. Buescher (pronounced “BISH-er”) neighbors Bastrop State Park, but the two boast different environments. Oaks and other hardwoods dominate this park, along with a few pines. Although neighboring Bastrop State Park was heavily impacted by the wildfires of 2011, Buescher SP was fortunately spared from the devastation. The park is especially popular for its 30-acre lake. Visitors can enjoy ample campsites and screened shelters, as well as a playground and picnic area. Open daily. Fee.
Railroad Museum and Depot. 100 NW First St.; (512) 237-2313. Built beside the tracks, this park has two cabooses and a depot relocated here from West Point, a community east of town. The museum features exhibits of historical Missouri-Kansas-Texas Railroad artifacts and replicas of the Smithville Depot. The chamber of commerce office is housed adjacent to the depot as well. Open Mon through Fri afternoons. Free admission.
Rocky Hill Ranch. FM 153, 2 miles northeast of Buescher State Park; (361) 548-5728; rockyhillranch.com. Beginner, intermediate, advanced, and expert trails tempt mountain bikers with more than 1,000 acres that include gentle slopes and challenging grades as well as stream crossings. More than 30 miles of trails are available for use by helmeted bicycle riders. The ranch is open for day use, or if you are staying longer, campsites are available along small creeks and spring-fed water holes. Open daily. Fee.
Smithville Heritage House & Museum. 602 Main St.; (830) 839-4080. This 1908 Victorian home contains the Smithville archives and a museum of local memorabilia. Open Tues mornings or by appointment. Free admission.
Vernon L. Richards Riverbend Park. 107 TX 71 West at the Colorado River, just north of Smithville; (512) 237-3282 for information or campsite reservations; lcra.org. This LCRA park is operated by the City of Smithville and hosts many special events, including the Smithville Jamboree and the Smithville Music Festival. The park includes restrooms, a group facility, hike/bike trails, kids’ playground, picnic facilities, and a boat ramp. Open daily for day use and camping. Free admission.
Veterans Memorial Park. 311 NW Second St.; (512) 237-3282. This memorial honors military veterans, particularly local soldiers who gave their lives in service to their country, with bronze plaques and other sculptures. Open daily. Free.
where to shop
Bella’s Cottage Antiques. 119 Main St.; (512) 237-2463; bellascottageantiquestx.com. This downtown shop features a large inventory of vintage items including furniture, jewelry, art objects, and household furnishings. Open Tues through Sun.
Just 4 miles southeast of Smithville on the left side of TX 71 is a scenic overlook, an excellent place to pull over for a picnic. From here you can gaze at the miles of rolling hills and farmland that attracted many German and Czech immigrants a century ago.
Continue on TX 71 to the somewhat infamous community of La Grange. For generations this was a quiet town in the center of a farming region. In the 1970s, however, La Grange caught the attention of the public with the unveiling of the Chicken Ranch, a brothel that became the subject of the Broadway musical and movie The Best Little Whorehouse in Texas, not to mention the famous ZZ Top song “La Grange.” The Chicken Ranch is gone now, but La Grange still has other sights to see.
where to go
Fayette Heritage Museum and Archives. 855 S. Jefferson St.; (979) 968-6418 or (979) 968-3765; cityoflg.com/departments/library.php. Housed inside the Fayette Public Library, this museum contains displays on the area’s rich history, along with extensive genealogical records. Open Tues through Sun; call for hours. Free admission.
Monument Hill & Kreische Brewery State Historic Site. 414 State Loop 92 (off US 77, 1 mile south of La Grange); (979) 968-5658; tpwd.texas.gov. Located on a 200-foot bluff high above town, this site is home to two combined parks. Open daily 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Free admission.
Monument Hill Historical Park is the burial site for the Texans who died in the Dawson Massacre and the Mier Expedition, two historic Mexican conflicts that occurred in 1842, six years after the Texas Revolution. The Dawson Massacre took place near San Antonio when La Grange citizen Nicholas Dawson gathered Texans to halt continual Mexican attacks. Dawson’s men were met by hundreds of Mexican troops, and 35 Texans were killed. The Mexican village of Mier was attacked in a retaliatory move, resulting in the capture of Texas soldiers and citizens by Mexico’s General Santa Anna, who ordered every tenth man to be killed. The Texans were blindfolded and forced to draw beans: 159 of them white and 17 black. Men who drew white beans were imprisoned; those who drew black ones were executed.
Kreische Brewery State Historic Site recalls a far more cheerful time in Texas history. Heinreich Kreische, who immigrated here from Germany, purchased the hilltop and the adjoining land in 1849, including the burial ground of those Texas heroes, for his brewery site. Before closing the brewery in 1884, Kreische became the third-largest beer producer in the state. Stroll the grounds and enjoy the view high over the Colorado River, then follow the trail downhill to the site where the brewery once stood. Guided tours of the brewery and the Kreische house are conducted seasonally; call for tour times.
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the chicken ranch |
| La Grange drew international attention in 1973 when the story of what many believe was the country’s oldest continuously run brothel was exposed by consumeraffairs reporter Marvin Zindler from KTRK-TV in Houston. The report would inspirea Broadway musical and movie as well as lot of curiosity about the site, which was located on 11 acres outside of La Grange. The house, which was added on to many times as the number of women increased, was nicknamed the Chicken Ranch during the Great Depression. When customers grew more scarce, the proprietor, a woman known as Miss Jessie, began allowing men to pay in chickens. Soon the ranch was overrun with both poultry and eggs, both of which they sold locally. | |
| As economic times improved, the ranch returned to a cash basis. Ownership changed in 1952 to Edna Milton, a madam who become one of La Grange’s largest philanthropists. | |
| When the Chicken Ranch closed, the building was moved to Dallas and, for a while, became a chicken restaurant. |
Muster Oak. Northeast corner of Courthouse Square; texasforestservice.tamu.edu. Beneath this historic oak tree, Captain Dawson gathered 53 troops to join the Texas-Mexican Revolution in 1842. Muster Oak is designated as one of the “Famous Trees of Texas” by Texas A&M University.
N. W. Faison Home. 822 S. Jefferson St.; (979) 968-5756; faisonhouse.org. N. W. Faison was a survivor of both the Dawson Massacre and the Mier Expedition. The Faison family resided in this home for more than 20 years, and today it contains the family’s furniture as well as exhibits from the Mexican War. Open for tours 1 to 4 p.m. every second Sat of the month and by appointment. Fee.
Oak Thicket Park. 4819 W. TX 159 (about 7 miles east of La Grange on TX 159; turn right at the sign for Fayette County Lake); (979) 249-3504; lcra.org. This 65-acre park offers plenty of family-oriented activities: a playground, fishing piers, and a good swimming area on Lake Fayette. Camping is available, as well as 8 cabins. Open dawn to dusk for day use. Fee.
Old Fayette County Jail and Visitors Center. 171 S. Main St.; (979) 968-3017 or (800) 524-7264; lagrangetourism.com/History/History-Jailhouse.html. Now the home of the La Grange Area Chamber of Commerce, this historic building once housed the Fayette County Jail, serving in that role for a century. Open daily. Free admission.
Park Prairie Park. 1250 Park Prairie Rd. (travel 10 miles east of La Grange on TX 159); (979) 249-3504; lcra.org. Located on 2,000-acre Lake Fayette, Park Prairie is another favorite with families, thanks to volleyball courts, plenty of picnic space, tent camping, and even some pelicans and gulls along the shores of the lake. Hikers can walk to Oak Thicket Park on a 3-mile trail. Other facilities include restrooms, showers, a group facility, and a boat ramp. Open dawn to dusk for day use. Fee.
Texas Czech Heritage and Cultural Center. 250 W. Fairgrounds Rd.; (888) 785-4500 or (979) 968-9399; czechtexas.org. Located next to the Fayette County Fairgrounds, this cluster of restored historic buildings house perhaps the most comprehensive collection of materials related to the Czech experience in Texas. The 70-acre compound includes exhibits of genealogical records in the Melnar Library and the Hoelscher House, which houses the Polka Lovers Club of Texas Museum. The Texas Czech Village is composed of numerous farmhouses and buildings. Much of the signage is in both English and Czech. Open Mon through Sat. Free admission.
White Rock Park. 940 Mode Ln. (US 77 south to Elbin Road, continue about 0.75 mile to Mode Lane/CR 134, then take a right on Mode Lane and travel about 0.25 mile); (979) 968-5805; lcra.org. On the east bank of the Colorado River, this 24-acre day-use park includes restrooms, hike/bike trails, picnic facilities, a fishing pier, and a canoe launch. The park was developed by the LCRA but is operated by the City of La Grange. Open dawn to dusk. Free admission.
where to eat
Las Fuentes. 658 S. Jefferson St.; (979) 968-8957; lasfuentesmexicanrestaurant.net. This restaurant located near the courthouse square serves up authentic Mexican dishes for lunch and dinner. You’ll find most of your favorite Tex-Mex combinations here as well as some unique specialties like grilled quail and red snapper a la plancha, an 8-ounce fillet cooked in garlic and butter. Las Fuentes also offers daily lunch specials and a separate children’s menu. Open daily. $$.
Lukas Bakery. 135 N. Main St.; (979) 968-3052. Since 1947 this landmark bakery has been turning out fragrant delights like bread, kolaches, and pigs in a blanket. Open Mon through Sat 5 a.m. to 1 p.m. $.
Weikel’s Bakery. 2247 W. TX 71; (979) 968-9413; weikels.com. The Czech pastry specialties for which this region is known make up many of the offerings at this highway-side bakery. Kolaches and pigs in a blanket are top items; kolaches come in a range of flavors, from pineapple to poppy seed to prune. The bakery may not look like much from the outside (well, actually, it looks like a gas station), but it was named one of America’s top 10 bakeries by foodies Jane and Michael Stern in Epicurious, and for good reason. Open Mon through Thurs 5 a.m. to 9 p.m., Fri through Sun 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. $.
