barbecue trail:Fragrant smoke from famous Texas barbecue restaurants pervades the region along US 183 south from Austin. Barbecue enthusiasts from all over the world converge on Lockhart and Luling to sample the smoky delights.
McKinney Falls State Park. 5808 McKinney Falls Pkwy., Austin (13 miles southeast of downtown Austin off US 183); (512) 243-1643; tpwd.texas.gov. A favorite with those looking for a quick getaway from the city, this park includes plenty of chances to view the area’s wildlife, including white-tailed deer, raccoons, squirrels, and armadillos. Campers can choose from several types of sites as well as screened shelters. Swimming in a scenic portion of Onion Creek is a popular attraction here, too. Fee.
Lockhart is a conglomeration of the stuff of Texas legends: battles, cattle drives, cotton, and oil. This small town, located 23 miles south of Austin on US 183, contains a state park and lots of history.
The biggest event in Lockhart’s past was the Battle of Plum Creek in 1840. More than 600 Comanches raided the community of Linnville and were on their way home when they passed through this area. A group of settlers joined forces with the Tonkawa tribe to attack the Comanches, driving them farther west and ending attacks from Native Americans in the region. This battle is reenacted every June at the Chisholm Trail Roundup.
Lockhart is also well known as the home of Mebane cotton. Developed by A. D. Mebane, this strain is resistant to the boll weevil, an insect that can demolish not only whole fields but also entire economies.
where to go
Caldwell County Museum. 315 E. Market St.; (512) 398-5796. You can’t miss this old building—just look for the five-story redbrick castle. Built in 1908 as the county jail, this imposing structure was designed with Norman-style castellations, giving it almost a fairy tale look. Today the building, which houses items detailing the settlement and history of the region, is operated by the Caldwell County Historical Commission and is open to the public on Sat and Sun from 1 to 5 p.m. Fee.
Dr. Eugene Clark Library. 217 S. Main St.; (512) 398-3223; clark-library-lockhart.org. Built in 1889, this is the oldest continuously operating library in Texas. Modeled after the Villa Rotunda in Vicenza, Italy, the Classical Revival building has stained-glass windows, ornate fixtures, and a stage where President William Taft once spoke. Open Mon through Sat. Free admission.
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lockhart meets hollywood |
| While its reputation as the barbecue capital of Texas has made Lockhart legendary among foodies, its historical architecture and small-town charm has secured this Hill Country community a place in Hollywood history. The Muldoon Blue sandstone facade of the Caldwell County Courthouse played a starring role alongside Johnny Depp in a scene from the 1993 drama What’s Eating Gilbert Grape? and the 19th-century structure also appears in the cult comedy favorite Waiting for Guffman. Locals lined the bleachers at the high school football fieldin 1998 for the sci-fi flick The Faculty, and residents shop in the same aisles of the Walmart that actress Natalie Portman wandered in 2000 when she filmed the screen adaptation of the best-selling novel Where the Heart Is. |
Lockhart State Park. 2012 State Park Rd. (1 mile south of Lockhart on US 183 to FM 20, head southwest for 2 miles to Park Road, continue 1 mile south); (512) 398-3479; tpwd.texas.gov. This 263-acre park has a 9-hole golf course, fishing on Plum Creek, picnic areas, a swimming pool, and campsites for both tents and trailers. Many of the facilities were built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s. Open daily. Fee.
where to shop
Manny Gammage’s Texas Hatters. 911 S. Commerce St; (800) 421-4287 or (512) 398-4287; texashatters.com. Formerly in Buda, this store’s founder, the late Manny Gammage, was “Texas’s Hatmaker to the Stars.” His custom hats topped the heads of Roy Rogers, Willie Nelson, Ronald Reagan, Burt Reynolds, and many other celebrities whose pictures decorate the shop walls. Besides the obligatory cowboy hats, this store also sells hand-blocked high rollers, Panamas, and derbies. Open Tues through Sat.
where to eat
Black’s Barbecue. 215 N. Main St.; (512) 398-2712; blacksbbq.com. This cafeteria-style restaurant is reputedly the oldest barbecue joint in Texas under the same continuous family ownership. Beef brisket is the specialty of the house, along with sausage, ribs, chicken, and ham. There’s also a fully stocked salad bar. Open daily. $–$$.
Kreuz Market. 619 N. Colorado St.; (512) 398-2361; kreuzmarket.com. For generations, Kreuz (pronounced “Krites”) Market was the stuff of legend. The menu at this meat-lover’s paradise features brisket, beef shoulder clod, spicy sausage, pork loin, prime rib, and pork ribs, all served on butcher paper without forks and without a drop of barbecue sauce. Open daily. $–$$.
Smitty’s Market. 208 S. Commerce St.; (512) 398-9344; smittysmarket.com. Since 1900 this store was part of Kreuz Market, the no-frills barbecue joint and Texas legend. “Smitty” Schmidt bought the restaurant from its original owner in 1948 and devised the huge pit system for barbecuing. The smokehouse was run first by Schmidt, then by his two sons until 1999, when the family divided the business: Sister Nina Schmidt Sells took the building and brother Rick took the name, moving it to a newer building that houses Kreuz Market. Today the original brick building is home to Smitty’s Market, which still operates much as the original did. The specials include brisket, pork chops, sausage, and pork ribs. Side dishes are also sold here, including potato salad, coleslaw, and beans. Open daily. $–$$.
Continue south on US 183 for 17 miles to the oil town of Luling. Oil was discovered here in 1922, and fields pumping this “black gold” can still be seen throughout the Luling area. Even before that time the town had a reputation as the toughest town in Texas, frequented by gunfighters like John Wesley Hardin and Ben Thompson. Luling was also a cattle center and one end of a railroad line to Chihuahua, Mexico.
When oil was discovered, the economy of the town shifted to this profitable industry. As part of a beautification effort, the chamber of commerce commissioned an artist to transform several of Luling’s pump jacks into moving sculptures in the shapes of cartoon characters. There’s even a Santa Claus and a butterfly to brighten up the streets. Maps to these whimsical pump jacks are available from the chamber of commerce office at 421 E. Davis Street.
where to go
Central Texas Oil Patch Museum & Luling Chamber of Commerce Visitors’ Center. 421 E. Davis St.; (830) 875-2444; lulingoilmuseum.org. Luling’s oil businesses, starting with Rafael Rios No. 1 (an oil field 12 miles long and 2 miles wide), are explored in this museum. Displays include oil well drilling tools, photos, and documents. Open Mon through Sat. Free admission.
Luling Zedler Mill Paddling Trail. 5 miles west of Luling, where US 90 crosses the San Marcos River; tpwd.texas.gov/fishboat/boat/paddlingtrails/inland/luling. In the 1870s both a gristmill and cotton mill were built at this site to harness the power of the San Marcos River. The cotton gin was destroyed by flash flood, then rebuilt, only to become an electric plant. This site became part of Texas’s first paddling trail, operated by Texas Parks and Wildlife. You’ll put into the river 6 miles upstream, then come out at Zedler Mill, located within city limits. (There’s a dam beyond the mill, so be careful not to go beyond the mill.) Check the website for information on local canoe rentals, shuttles, and even GPS coordinates along the river. Free admission.
Palmetto State Park. 78 Park Road 11 South (6 miles southeast of town on US 183, then southwest on Park Road for 2 miles); (830) 672-3266; tpwd.texas.gov. Along the banks of the San Marcos River, Palmetto State Park is a topographical anomaly amidst gently rolling farm and ranch land. According to scientists, the river shifted course thousands of years ago, leaving a huge deposit of silt. This sediment absorbed rain- and groundwater, nurturing a marshy swamp estimated to be more than 18,000 years old. Now part of the state park, the swamp is filled with palmettos as well as moss-draped trees, 4-foot-tall irises, and many bird species. Nature trails wind through the area. The park has full hookups and tent sites. There’s also picnicking, but bring along mosquito repellent during the warmer months. Open daily. Fee.
where to eat
Luling City Market. 633 Davis St.; (830) 875-9019. This is small-town barbecue the way it ought to be: served up in a no-frills meat market, with ambience replaced by local atmosphere. The Luling City Market turns out smoked brisket, sausage, and ribs. Open Mon through Sat. $.