that’s history:This is a cultural journey from Austin, a trip through three small towns that share a strong German heritage. It includes some curving farm-to-market roads that are very susceptible to flooding. If it’s raining heavily, save this trip for another day!
From Austin head west on US 290 to Johnson City and Fredericksburg (see West Day Trips 02 and 03 for attractions in these cities). In Fredericksburg turn south on US 87 and continue for 23 miles to Comfort. This small community is big in history and attractions. The downtown area is a National Historic District, filled with homes and businesses built by early settlers.
Comfort was founded by German pioneers in 1854, who wanted to name the town Gemütlichkeit, meaning peace, serenity, comfort, and happiness. After some deliberation, though, they decided on the easier-to-pronounce “Comfort” instead.
Today Comfort offers tourists numerous historic buildings to explore, filled with antiques shops and restaurants. Visitors also find a historic inn. Weekends are the busiest time to visit, but even then the atmosphere is relaxing, unhurried, and, well, comfortable.
where to go
Bat Roost. FM 473, on private land; (830) 995-3131. As you leave Comfort for Sisterdale, this historic structure sits 1 mile from town on the right side of the road behind private gates. While it’s generally known now that bats feed on disease-spreading mosquitoes, the folks here have been aware of the importance of these furry mammals since 1918, when Albert Steves constructed hygieostatic bat roosts in an experimental attempt to control malaria. The roosts were intended to encourage the area’s large bat population to remain in the region. Only 16 such roosts were built in the country, and this is the oldest of three known still to exist. Free, but view only from the road.
Old Tunnel State Park. 10619 Old San Antonio Rd. (15 miles northeast of Comfort off FM 473 on old TX 9); (866) 978-2287; tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/old-tunnel. From May through Oct visitors to this unique park can watch at dusk when up to three million Mexican free-tailed bats emerge from an abandoned railroad tunnel and take to the skies to hunt mosquitoes and other flying insects. The park is open daily year-round for other activities such as hiking. Unlike most Texas state parks, dogs are not allowed. Free admission; fee to view bats during season.
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treue der union |
| “Treue der Union” (True to the Union) Monument. 348 High St., between Third and Fourth Streets; (830) 995-3131. During the Civil War, German residents of Comfort who did not approve of slavery and openly swore their loyalty to the Union were burned out of their farms. The Confederates responsible also lynched locals who refused to pledge their allegiance to the movement. Several German farmers decided to defect to Mexico but were caught by Confederate soldiers and killed on the banks of the Nueces River, their bodies left unburied. | |
| Finally retrieved in 1865, the remains were returned to Comfort and buried in a mass grave. A white obelisk, the oldest monument in Texas, was dedicated here in 1866. The flag that waves here has 36 stars, the same number it had when the marker was dedicated in 1866. Free admission. |
where to shop
Architectural Mercantile. 501 Broadway; (830) 995-5602; architecturalmercantile.com. Located in a historic rock chapel, this unusual antiques store specializes in home decor accessories and lighting fixtures from the past. Open Sat and Sun.
The Comfort Common. 818 High St.; (830) 995-3030; bbhost.com/comfortcommon. This combination bed-and-breakfast inn and indoor shopping area is located within the historic Ingenhuett-Faust Hotel. Several buildings behind the hotel display antique primitives and furniture. Open daily.
Comfort Crockery. 402 Seventh St.; (830) 995-5299; comfortcrockery.com. This shop sells unique pottery, jewelry, art objects, and mesquite furniture inside Comfort’s historic Faitin Building. Open Wed through Sun.
where to stay
Hotel Faust. 717 High St.; (830) 995-3030; hotelfaust.com. This historic property has been updated and offers a blend of traditional and modern touches. The boutique hotel and adjacent carriage house offers six suites with private baths and wireless Internet connections. The compound also includes the one-bedroom Ingenhuett Log Cabin and the Gorman Cottage with two bedrooms. There is a two-night minimum stay. $$–$$$.
From Comfort head out on FM 473 to nearby Sisterdale, best known as the home of a small winery. The burg, like nearby Boerne, was settled by a group of intellectuals. Today the population has dwindled to a handful of residents, and you have to look carefully to keep from passing right through town.
where to go
Sister Creek Vineyards. 1142 Sisterdale Rd.; (830) 324-6704; sistercreekvineyards.com. These vineyards thrive in “downtown” Sisterdale, located between the East and West Sister Creeks. The winery, a restored cotton gin, produces traditional French-style wines. Open daily for self-guided tours. Fee for tastings.
where to eat
Sisterdale Smokehouse. 1123 FM 1376; (830) 324-6858; sisterdalesmokehouse.com. If you’re near Sisterdale on a weekend, this is a good place to stop for some tasty barbecue. You can choose from brisket, sausage, ribs, or chicken and enjoy the meal inside or outside on the deck. Open first and third weekend of each month, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. $.
From Sisterdale head south on FM 1376 to Boerne (pronounced “Bernie”). Boerne is located on the banks of Cibolo Creek in the rolling Texas Hill Country. The community was founded in 1849 by German immigrants, members of the same group who settled nearby New Braunfels. They named the town for author Ludwig Börne, whose writings inspired many people to leave Germany for the New World.
During the 1880s Boerne became known as a health spot, and vacationers came by railroad to soak in mineral-water spas and enjoy the clean country air. Although no mineral spas remain today, Boerne still offers a country atmosphere and dozens of antiques shops in which to browse. Thanks to its proximity to San Antonio and Austin, the town gets pretty busy on weekends.
Summer also brings seasonal fun to Boerne. A favorite activity on Main Plaza is Abendkonzerte, summer concerts performed by the Boerne Village Band. Since 1860 this German band (the oldest continuously active German band in the country and the oldest in the world outside of Germany) has entertained residents and visitors with its Old World sound. Abendkonzerte takes place on select Tuesday nights throughout the summer.
where to go
Boerne Convention and Visitors Bureau Visitors Center. 1407 S. Main St.; (888) 842-8080 or (830) 249-7277; visitboerne.org. Stop here for brochures and maps to Boerne attractions and shopping areas. Open Mon through Sat.
Agricultural Heritage Center and Museum. 102 City Park Rd.; (830) 537-5509; agmuseum.us. This museum features farm and ranch tools used by pioneers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, including a working steam-operated blacksmith shop. Six acres surrounding the museum are covered with hand-drawn plows, wagons, early tractors, and woodworking tools. Open Sat 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and by appointment. Closed Dec and Jan. Fee.
Boerne Turn Verein. 221 E. Theissen St.; (830) 249-2271; boerneturnverein.com. This bowling club has been operating in downtown Boerne since 1908. The lanes are open only for league play during the week, but the public is welcome on weekends. Open Mon through Sat. Fee.
Cascade Caverns. 226 Cascade Caverns Rd. (from I-10 take exit 543 and follow signs); (830) 755-8080; cascadecaverns.com. This family-owned cavern, located in a 105-acre park, maintains a year-round temperature of 68°F, so the attraction is popular on both cold winter days and sweltering summer days. The cave has a 100-foot waterfall, an unusual underground sight. Guided tours take an hour. Open daily. Fee.
Cave Without a Name. 325 Kreutzberg Rd.; (830) 537-4212; cavewithoutaname.com. Guided tours take groups through six rooms of this family-owned cavern, now designated a National Natural Landmark. A subterranean river and numerous cave formations fill the tour. Open daily. Fee.
Cibolo Nature Center. 140 City Park Rd.; (830) 249-4616; cibolo.org. Enjoy grassland, marshland, and woodland in this park that offers a slice of the Hill Country. Visitors can also view dinosaur tracks. The wilderness area includes both reclaimed prairie and reclaimed marsh, with walking trails that range from 0.25 mile to 1 mile in length. Open 8 a.m. to dusk daily. Free admission.
Guadalupe River State Park. 13 miles east of Boerne off TX 46 at 3350 Park Road 31; (830) 438-2656; tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/guadalupe-river. The star of this park is the clear, cold Guadalupe River. Camp, swim, hike, or just picnic on its scenic banks, or on Sat mornings, take an interpretive tour of the Honey Creek State Natural Area to learn more about the plants and animals of the region. Fee.
Honey Creek State Natural Area. 13 miles east of Boerne off TX 46 on Park Road 31; (830) 438-2656; tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/honey-creek. Use of this park is limited to those on guided tours. A two-hour guided look at the park’s history and ecology is offered every Sat morning at 9 a.m.; reservations aren’t necessary, but call to confirm that a tour will be offered. Access into the park is through the Guadalupe River State Park. Fee.
where to eat
Bumdoodlers. 929 N. Main St.; (830) 249-8826; bumdoodlers.com. One of the most popular spots in town for lunch, Bumdoodlers serves up homemade soups, salads, and deli sandwiches. And, they are locally famous for their pies as well. Open Tues through Sat. $.
Limestone Grille. 128 W. Blanco St., Main Plaza inside Ye Kendall Inn; (800) 364-2138 or (830) 249-2138; yekendallinn.com. In 1859 the owners of this two-story structure began renting rooms to stagecoach travelers, eventually developing the property into an inn. Over the years its famous guests have included Confederate President Jefferson Davis and President Dwight D. Eisenhower. The menu features steaks and seafood dishes along with some entrees with a Mexican influence. Open Tues through Sat for lunch and dinner. $$.
Po Po Family Restaurant. 829 FM 289 (6 miles north of Boerne, 0.5 mile off I-10 at exit 533); (830) 537-4194; poporestaurant.com. Once a stagecoach stop, this site now houses a locally popular restaurant. Along with its home-cooked meals, the restaurant is also known for its plates themselves—over 1,300 of them decorate the walls! Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$.