cowboy country:In the far west reaches of the Texas Hill Country the antelope (well, white-tailed deer) play, cowboys (both real and pretend) ride herd, and brilliant maple trees blaze so brightly in the fall, you’ll think you’re in New England. The ranches are a little bigger here, the towns a little farther apart, and you’ll learn the meaning of the longtime Texas slogan “Drive Friendly” as oncoming motorists are quick to greet you with a welcoming wave.
Take I-35 south from Austin through San Marcos and New Braunfels (see South Day Trip 04 and Southwest Day Trip 02 for information). In New Braunfels, take TX 46 west to Boerne (see Southwest Day Trip 04). Continue on TX 46 for 11 miles until it adjoins TX 16. Continue west for 12 miles to Bandera, “The Cowboy Capital of the World.” This town is well known for its plentiful dude ranches, country-and-western music, rodeos, and horse racing.
Once part of the Wild West, Bandera Pass, located 12 miles north of town on TX 173, was the site of many battles between Spanish conquistadors and Apaches and Comanches. Legend has it that, following a battle with the Apaches in 1732, a flag (or bandera in Spanish) was hung at the pass to mark the boundary between the two opposing forces.
Bandera has open rodeos weekly during the summer. Typically rodeos are held on Friday night at the Twin Elm Guest Ranch and another at the BR Lightning Ranch. For schedules, call the Bandera Convention and Visitors Bureau at (800) 364-3833 or see banderacowboycapital.com.
Today the wildest action in town occurs in the dance halls every night except Monday and Tuesday. Put on your boots, crease your best jeans, and get ready to two-step with locals and vacationers alike.
where to go
Arkey Blue’s Silver Dollar. 308 Main St.; (830) 796-8826. Pick up a longneck, grab a partner, and start boot-scootin’ at this Texas honky-tonk. Owner and singer Arkey Blue performs country-and-western hits here as crowds fill the sawdust-covered dance floor. Free admission; fee for weekend entertainment.
Frontier Times Museum. 510 13th St. (1 block north of the courthouse); (830) 796-3864; frontiertimesmuseum.org. Established in 1927, this museum is a good place to learn more about Bandera’s early days. The stone building is filled with cowboy paraphernalia, Native American arrowheads, and prehistoric artifacts. Its most unusual exhibit is a shrunken head from Ecuador, part of a private collection donated to the museum. Open Mon through Sat. Fee.
Hill Country State Natural Area. 10600 Bandera Creek Rd. (south on TX 173 to FM 1077, then right for 12 miles); (830) 796-4413; tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/hill-country. This rugged park preserves 5,400 acres of Hill Country land. Only primitive camping is available; you must bring your own water and pick up and remove your own trash. This park was originally open primarily for horseback riding, but today it has become popular with hikers and bicyclists. There are 40 miles of quiet trails and camp areas for backpackers and equestrians. Cool off with a dip in West Verde Creek or fish for catfish, perch, and largemouth bass. Horse rentals are available off-site. Open daily. Fee.
Historical Walking Tours. (800) 364-3833. Have a look at the buildings that witnessed Bandera’s evolution from a frontier town to a vacation destination with a self-guided tour. Thirty-two sites along the route lead visitors to the county courthouse, the old jail, Bandera’s first theater, and many homes that date back to the community’s earliest days. Pick up your walking-tour brochure at the Bandera County visitor center, 126 TX 16 South. Free admission.
Medina River. TX 16, east of town. The cypress-lined Medina River is a popular spot during the summer months, when swimmers, canoeists, and inner-tubers enjoy the cool water. The Medina can be hazardous during high water, however, with rocky rapids and submerged trees. There is public access to the river from the TX 16 bridge in town. Free admission.
where to shop
Bandera General Store. 306 Main St.; (830) 796-4925; banderageneralstore.com. If you’ve decided you just need some real cowboy boots or other Western wear, this is a good place to find them. The store is housed in an old dance hall and sells Texas-inspired gift items, and it boasts a real old-time soda fountain (as well as a resident ghost named Henry!).
where to eat
O.S.T. Restaurant. 305 Main St.; (830) 796-3836. Named for the Old Spanish Trail, this restaurant serves a Texas-size breakfast as well as popular lunches and dinners, featuring Lone Star favorites such as chicken-fried steak, burgers, and fried chicken. Don’t miss the bar and its unique barstools—each topped with a saddle. Open daily. $.
Texaritas Mesquite Grill Steak House. 703 Main St.; (830) 796-9400; texassquare.com/texaritas.htm. Part of Old Texas Square, this restaurant offers both indoor and streetside dining featuring Texas favorites, steaks, Tex-Mex, fajitas, and drinks from the adjacent Tequila Rita Cantina. Open daily. $–$$.
where to stay
The country around Bandera is dotted with dude ranches. Rates usually include three meals daily as well as family-style entertainment and supervised children’s programs. Horseback riding is often part of the weeklong package. A minimum stay of two or three days is required at most ranches during peak summer season.
For a complete listing of Bandera’s dude ranches, as well as other accommodations and campgrounds, call the Bandera Convention and Visitors Bureau, (800) 364-3833.
2E Twin Elm Guest Ranch. 810 FM 470 (4 miles from Bandera via TX 16); (888) 567-3049 or (830) 796-3628; twinelmranch.com. This 230-acre dude ranch is on the Medina River. All the usual cowboy activities are available, from angling to horseback riding to horseshoe pitching. From May through July the ranch hosts a weekly rodeo every Sat. $$$.
Dixie Dude Ranch. 833 Dixie Dude Ranch Rd. (south on TX 173 1.5 miles to FM 1077, then southwest for 9 more miles); (800) 375-9255 or (830) 796-7771; dixieduderanch.com. Five generations of the Whitley family have welcomed guests to this ranch since 1937. The Dixie Dude Ranch offers potential cowpokes the opportunity to enjoy a taste of ranch life. Start your morning with a leisurely trail ride followed by a genuine cowboy breakfast, then enjoy a day filled with hiking trails, hunting for Native American arrowheads, taking country-and-western dance lessons, fishing, or tossing horseshoes. The ranch includes 20 units made up of individual cottages, duplex cabins, and lodge rooms featuring early Texas architecture. Rates include meals and two horseback rides daily. Call for rates. $$$.
Flying L Guest Ranch. 566 Flying L Dr. (from TX 16, turn south on TX 173 for 1.5 miles, then left on Wharton Dock Road); (800) 292-5134; flyingl.com. This 542-acre ranch has a variety of room styles and sizes, including suites and villas to accommodate families or larger groups. You can choose from a variety of packages offering horseback riding, hay-rides, and even golf at the ranch’s 18-hole course. During the summer there’s a supervised children’s program. Nightly entertainment ranges from Western shows to “branding” parties. $$$.
Mayan Ranch. 350 Mayan Ranch Dr. (TX 16, 2 miles west of Bandera); (830) 796-3312 or (830) 460-3036; mayanranch.com. For more than 50 years, this 68-room ranch has entertained vacationers with cowboy breakfasts, cookouts, horseback riding, angling, and hayrides. Summer also brings organized children’s programs. Rooms are appointed with Western-style furniture. Call for rates. $$$.
Old Texas Square Hotel. 703 Main St.; (830) 896-1711; texassquare.com. Rooms here are decorated in a Wild West theme, but otherwise it’s motel basic with few extras. However, the hotel is the only one on Bandera’s Main Street and makes an excellent location from which to enjoy nightlife. The most interesting room here is the John Wayne Room, in which the Duke himself once stayed. $–$$.
Silver Spur Guest Ranch. 9266 Bandera Creek Rd. (10 miles south of Bandera on FM 1077); (830) 796-3037; silverspur-ranch.com. Pull on your boots and grab your Stetson before heading to this 275-acre ranch near the Hill Country State Natural Area. You’ll stay busy out of the saddle with nearby angling, tubing, canoeing, and golfing, plus swimming in the ranch pool. $$$.
especially for winter texans
Besides the dude ranches, Bandera has excellent RV parks. Many weekly activities are of special interest to the Winter Texans who call Bandera home. Country-and-western dances are held Wed through Sat, and there’s bingo on Fri and Sun. For a complete listing, contact the Bandera Convention and Visitors Bureau, (800) 364-3833.
From Bandera continue west on TX 16 to the tiny community of Medina, best known for its dwarf apple trees that produce full-size fruit in varieties from Crispin to Jonagold.
where to go
Love Creek Orchards. 13495 TX 16; (800) 449-0882 or (830) 589-2588; lovecreekorchards.com. From May through Oct these beautiful orchards are open to the public by guided tour only; call to set up a tour time. Fee.
where to shop
The Apple Store. 14024 TX 16; (830) 589-2202; lovecreekorchards.com. This shop sells Love Creek apples from June through Nov. Butter, sauces, vinegars, jellies, syrups, pies, breads, and even apple ice cream are sold here year-round. If you’re ready to start your own orchard but you’re short on room, you can buy “the patio apple orchard,” a dwarf tree grown on a trellis in a wooden planter. Open daily.
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taking a shine to medina |
| If there’s any truth to the saying “An apple a day keeps the doctor away,” then the physicians of Medina, Texas, better just close up shop. This Hill Country community is the core of the booming Texas apple industry. | |
| Today Medina is recognized as the capital of the Texas apple industry, a business that took root in 1981 when Baxter Adams and wife Carol moved to Love Creek Ranch outside of Medina. Baxter spent 30 years as an exploration geologist in the oil industry before moving to this region. It’s a land of rocky, rugged hills, with fertile valleys irrigated by the cool waters of Love Creek, a spring-fed creek that originates on the ranch. | |
| These valleys gave Adams the idea for an orchard—one that would not requirea great deal of land. “I don’t have much tillable land,” Adams once explained to us, pointing to the steep hills where goats once grazed. “I’ve got to really make it count. It’s a matter of trying to squeeze the most possible dollars out of the smallest possible area.” | |
| And that’s just what Baxter Adams did, launching a Texas apple business that continues today. | |
| This Texas version of Johnny Appleseed specialized in dwarf apple trees, plants that reach a height of only 5 or 6 feet. The Lilliputians boast full-size apples, however, up to 50 pounds per tree, in varieties from the common Red Delicious to the more unusual Gala and Crispin. | |
| Baxter and Carol started with just 1,000 trees in 1981, and they were soon in the apple business. Unlike the full-size trees that take seven years to produce a crop, the dwarfs yield fruit in just a year and a half. Another advantage Texas apples have over the northern producers is the growing season: Texas apples ripen weeks before their northern cousins. |
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continuing to concan |
| Want to extend your day trip with a more in-depth look at this portion of the Hill Country? From Utopia head west on RM 1050 to Garner State Park (234 RM 1050; (830) 232-6132; tpwd.state.tx.us), near the community of Concan. One of the most loved parks in the state system, the focal point of this getaway is the Frio River. This beautiful park, named for former US vice president John Nance Garner, is located on the chilly, spring-fed waters of the river (frio means “cold” in Spanish), promising a cool dip even on the hottest summer day. You’ll also find camping and over 12 miles of trails built by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the 1930s. The park is one of the state’s busiest, so plan your trip accordingly; we try to visit midweek whenever possible. | |
| If you don’t want to camp, Concan is also home to Neals Lodges (20970 TX 127; (830) 232-6118; nealslodges.com). Since 1926 this riverside resort has been a family favorite, growing to now include cabins, condominiums, lodges, and RV sites. |
where to stay
Escondida Resort. 23670 TX 16 North; (888) 589-7507 or (830) 589-7507; escondidaresort.com. Founded by Texas Country Reporter star Bob Phillips, the 10-room Escondida (Spanish for “hidden”) Resort is filled with elegant hardwood and iron furniture and subtle Mexican tile accents. Explore the 125-acre property for a day of birding, following Roberston Creek; relax in the pool or hot tub; or head inside to pamper yourself at the spa. $$$.
Vanderpool is a quiet getaway in all but the fall months. Tucked into the hills surrounding the Sabinal River, this small town is a center for sheep and goat ranching.
where to go
Lost Maples State Natural Area. 37221 FM 187 (west on RM 337 to the intersection with FM 187; turn north and continue 5 miles); (800) 792-1112 or (830) 966-3413; tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/lost-maples. This state park is one of the most heavily visited sites in Texas during Oct and Nov, when the bigtooth maples provide some of the best color in the state. Weekend visits at this time can be very crowded, so note that parking is limited to 250 cars. The least crowded time to visit is midweek.
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leaf peeping |
| Are you starting to dream about the feel of a cool autumn breeze? Hearing the crackle of leaves beneath your feet? Smelling the smoke of an evening campfire? | |
| Central Texas may not have the blazing colors of New England, but with a little looking, you will find a brilliant quilt of fall colors. The brilliant colors require cold night temperatures, an occurrence that can reach the Hill Country valleys long before the warmer city locations. | |
| The top destination for many leaf peepers is Lost Maples State Natural Area in Vanderpool. The maples, located so far from other specimens of the beautiful tree, may seem lost, but there’s no doubt that the park itself has been found. This state park is one of the most heavily visited sites in Texas during October and November when the bigtooth maples provide some of the best color in Texas. Weekend visits during this time can be very crowded, and note that the parking here is limited to only 250 cars. The best time to visit is during midweek, when you can enjoy a walk into the park without crowds. To find the status of fall colors, visit the weekly fall foliage report on the park’s website, tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/lost-maples/foliage-reports. | |
| Fall colors generated by blazing sumacs, sycamores, chinaberries, and cottonwoods can be seen on the scenic drive along RM 1050 from Utopia to US 83. RM 337 from Camp Wood to Leakey is another favorite of ours, as is the Devil’s Backbone Scenic Drive, a stretch of RM 32 from Wimberley to Blanco. |
There are 10 miles of hiking trails to enjoy all year along the Sabinal River Canyon. In the summer visitors can swim and fish in the river. Camping includes primitive areas on the hiking trails and a 30-site campground with restrooms and showers as well as a trailer dump station. Open daily. Fee.
Scenic Drive. Utopia to US 83. West of Utopia, RM 1050 winds its way through the Hill Country, crossing the Frio River before eventually intersecting with US 83 north of Concan. During late fall the drive is dotted with blazing sumacs, sycamores, chinaberries, and cottonwoods. Free admission.
Scenic Drive. RM 337. This drive from Camp Wood to Leakey (pronounced “LA-key”) is often termed the most scenic in Texas and is an excellent spot for fall color. The road climbs to some of the highest elevations in the Hill Country at more than 2,300 feet, and roadside lookouts offer great vistas of reds, greens, and golds. Free admission.
where to stay
Foxfire Log Cabins. 117 Olsen Ranch Rd.; (830) 966-2200 or (877) 966-8200; foxfirecabins.com. Located along the Sabinal River, these cabins are just a mile from Lost Maples State Natural Area, making a convenient home base for your trip, although, with a look at the beautiful swimming hole on this property, it might be tough to pull yourself away! Each cabin has two bedrooms, one bath, and a furnished kitchen (no microwave). You’ll also find a wood-burning fireplace as well as a fire ring outdoors. $$–$$$.