ranch road rambling:Leaving bustling US 183 in your rearview mirror, this getaway travels on a winding road that snakes into the northern Hill Country, ending on the shores of massive Lake Buchanan.
Cedar Park is north from Austin via US 183. Now primarily a suburb, once this was called “cedar chopper” country. Cedar choppers were independent people who worked the hilly land to the west, cutting juniper trees to provide fence posts for area ranchers. This generations-old trade is still plied by some Hill Country families.
where to go
Austin Steam Train. 401 E. Whitestone Blvd. (US 183 and FM 1431); (512) 477-8468; austinsteamtrain.org. Take a ride on the Hill Country Flyer, running from Cedar Park to Burnet (where visitors stop to have lunch and shop). Each of the 1930s-era cars is restored to original splendor. Other rides include the Bertram Flyer for a ride from Cedar Park to Bertram (with a chance to get out and see the old depot) and a host of themed excursions such as the Spring Break Flyer, Murder Mystery Excursions, and the holiday-themed North Pole Flyer. Reservations required. Fee.
Brushy Creek Regional Trail. 204 E. Little Elm Trail; (512) 250-9622; parks.wilco.org. This trail, with a total length of nearly 7 miles, is a favorite with outdoor enthusiasts thanks to its water fun and wide gravel paths. Although the park may get busy in the areas of the splash pads and playgrounds, much of the trail is quiet. It winds along the water with multiple entry points and facilities for fishing and picnicking, and photo sessions in wildflower fields. The trail is wide and easily shared by hikers and bikers. Free admission.
Cedar Bark. 2525 W. New Hope Dr.; (512) 401-5500; cedarparktx.us. If you are making a day trip with your dog, this park is definitely a must-see for dogs who enjoy the company of fellow canines. Our dogs Irie and Tiki love this large, fenced dog park that features separate sections for small and large dogs as well as a canine swimming area. The swimming pond features a fountain as well as a platform for dock-diving dogs. Along with benches and fountains for both four- and two-legged visitors, the park also includes a separate fenced dog shower area for rinsing off Rover before you continue on your travels. Free admission.
Cedar Park Center. 2100 Avenue of the Stars; (512) 600-5000; cedarparkcenter.com. This multipurpose arena, seating 8,000, is the home ice of the Texas Stars professional hockey team which competes in the American Hockey League as a top-level affiliate of the NHL Dallas Stars. When the Stars aren’t in town, the facility hosts other special events. Performances have ranged from country musical artist George Strait to the Cirque du Soleil. Open daily. Fee for events.
Cedar Park Community Sculpture Garden. 1435 Main St.; (512) 401-5500; cedarparkfun.com. Located adjacent to the Cedar Park Recreation Center, this large outdoor area features a rotating collection of sculptures created by local artists. Meandering gravel pathways wind through the displays, and if you happen to fall in love with one of the pieces, you’re in luck, as most are for sale. Free admission.
Texas Museum of Science and Technology. 1220 Toro Grande Dr.; (512) 961-5333; txmost.org. This new museum offers traveling exhibits dedicated to the wonders of science and technology, including engineering and mathematics, with plans to add permanent collections and a planetarium. Open daily. Fee.
Veterans Memorial. 2525 New Hope Dr. This site honors US military personnel and their families with brick pavers, each engraved with an individual soldier’s name, rank, and date of service. A tall granite obelisk towers over the scene as well as a bronze statue honoring a Cedar Park soldier killed during Operation Iraqi Freedom. Free admission.
where to eat
J&J BBQ. 300 W. Whitestone Blvd.; (512) 918-0314; jj-bbq.com. This former home has been transformed into a casa of ’que with a delightful mix of barbecue and Tex-Mex specialties. Brisket and sausage are tops, but breakfast (including tacos, huevos rancheros, and chorizo) is extremely popular, especially on weekends. Open daily. $.
Continue north on US 183 to neighboring Leander, a town of 25,000 that boasts many historic markers. To the right as you approach town, you’ll see a marker for the Blockhouse Creek subdivision, named for a blockhouse used as an interim prison by the Texas Rangers a century ago.
Another historic marker stands just east of US 183 on FM 2243. The Davis Cemetery, as the marker recounts, is the site of a mass grave, a reminder of an American Indian attack that ended with the deaths of many pioneers. For all its long history, however, the Davis Cemetery is overshadowed by the city’s Bagdad Cemetery on CR 279 at the corner of FM 2243, best known for its appearance in the opening scenes from Texas Chainsaw Massacre.
However, the most historic Leander site is actually found closer to Cedar Park. This marker recalls the discovery of “Leanderthal Lady” in January 1983. Dating back between 10,000 and 13,000 years, the skeleton and the site are considered one of the country’s most important Early Man locations. The historic marker is located east of US 183 on FM 1431, southeast of the intersection with Parmer Lane.
where to go
Dinosaur Tracks. South San Gabriel River, just north of town; (512) 259-1907. Park your car at the bridge and walk upstream for a half mile to see these three-toed dinosaur tracks. Free admission.
where to eat
Mouton’s Southern Bistro. 309 US 183 North; (512) 260-6300; moutonsbistro.com. If you’re in the mood for an alligator po’boy, you’ve found your spot at this restaurant that deems its menu as “Cajun with a Texas flair.” The large menu includes other Cajun favorites as well, such as jambalaya and boudin. Burgers and pastas are also well represented. Open daily. $$.
From Leander continue north on US 183 to the intersection with TX 29. Drive west on TX 29 for 12 miles to Bertram. This was once a thriving community, with four cotton gins and a busy railroad constructed to haul granite from Marble Falls to Austin for the construction of the Texas State Capitol. Today, however, this is a sleepy little town most of the year, but on Labor Day weekend the streets throng with travelers from around the state who come for the annual Oatmeal Festival. Visitors attend the celebration to witness an oatmeal cook-off, take part in a fun run, or see a parade. The festival is named for the hamlet of Oatmeal, located 6 miles south of Bertram on RM 243.
 |
feeling your oats |
| If you have some extra time in your day trip and you’re looking for a fun photo op, head south to the tiny community of Oatmeal. Located 5.6 miles south of Bertram on RM 243, this unincorporated town was founded by German settlers and named for its gristmill. You’ll find a small historic schoolhouse here, but our favorite stop is the famous oatmeal box. While Texas may be home to some uniquely painted water towers, including Luling’s watermelon, this site features a water standpipe painted as a 3 Minute Brand Oatmeal box, an homage to the annual Oatmeal Festival. |
where to shop
Texas Mesquite Company Gallery. 244 E. TX 29; (512) 355-3710; texmes.com. Furniture builder Craig Lagerstrom operates a workshop in Bertram and displays and sells his unique handmade furniture in this gallery. His tables, desks, chairs, and other items are crafted from Texas mesquite and reclaimed vintage longleaf pine. Custom furniture can be made to order. Open Mon through Sat.
From Bertram continue west on TX 29 to Burnet. This is the closest town of any size to Lake Buchanan (pronounced “BUCK-an-an”). It’s a good place to stop for picnic supplies and sunscreen products during summer visits (there are few facilities once you leave the city limits). Popular outdoor activities include fishing and bird-watching throughout the year as well as hunting during white-tailed deer season.
where to go
Canyon of the Eagles Resort. 16942 RM 2341; (800) 977-0081 or (512) 334-2070; canyonoftheeagles.com. This unique resort, reached by a scenic drive past Lake Buchanan, boasts a 940-acre nature park that serves as an ecotourism destination. Activities include hiking on marked nature trails, birding, butterfly watching, fishing, kayaking, or even enjoying the stars at an observatory. Fee for day use.
Fort Croghan Grounds and Museum. 703 Buchanan Dr. (on the western edge of town); (512) 756-8281; fortcroghan.org. Fort Croghan was constructed here in the 1840s, one of eight forts built from the Rio Grande to the Trinity River to protect the region from attacks by Native Americans. The museum and the adjacent fort sit on the left side of the road. Exhibits include household items used by residents over 100 years ago. You can take a walking tour of the fort, the blacksmith shop, the powder house, and a two-room cabin where one family raised 10 children. Open Thurs through Sat from Apr through mid-Oct; by appointment and for special events only during winter months. Free admission.
Highland Lakes Squadron WWII Air Museum. 2302 S. Water St. (at Burnet Municipal Kate Craddock Field, 1.5 miles south of Burnet); (512) 756-2226; hlscaf.sharepoint.com/Pages/default.aspx. Here you can have a look at World War II airplanes and memorabilia from the men who fought the battles. Operated by the Highland Lakes Squadron of the Commemorative Air Force. Open weekends, Wed afternoon, and by appointment. Fee.
Inks Lake State Park. 3630 Park Road 4 West (from TX 29 turn left onto Park Road 4); (512) 793-2223 for park information; (512) 389-8900 for reservations; tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/inks-lake. This 1,200-acre park offers camping, lakeside picnicking, swimming, and even a golf course on constant-level Inks Lake. White-tailed deer are a common sight during evening hours. Open daily. Fee.
Longhorn Cavern State Park. From TX 29, turn left onto Park Road 4; (877) 441-CAVE or (830) 598-2283; tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/longhorn-cavern or longhorncaverns.com. This cavern has relatively few formations but a long and interesting history. In one story, Comanches raided San Antonio, kidnapped a young woman named Mariel King, and brought her back to the cavern, unknowingly followed by three Texas Rangers. A hand-to-hand battle ensued, and Mariel King was rescued. Ending the story with a fairy-tale flourish, Miss King later married one of her rescuers, and the couple lived on in Burnet. The guided tour is easy, with wide, well-lit trails through the huge limestone rooms. For the more adventurous, the Wild Cave Tour visits undeveloped portions of the cave system on Sat (requires reservation). Open daily. Fee.
Vanishing Texas River Cruise. 443 Waterway Ln. (from Burnet, 3 miles west on TX 29, turn right on FM 2341 and follow the signs 14 miles to the cruise entrance); (800) 4RIVER4 or (512) 756-6986; vtrc.com. This excellent bird-watching cruise is popular with travelers who come to see American bald eagles from Nov through Mar. The rest of the year, you might see javelinas, wild goats, and white-tailed deer. The route takes in 50-foot Fall Creek Falls and a narrow, cliff-lined passage on the Colorado River. Cruises also travel past Fall Creek Vineyards on the lake’s shore. Some trips include a stop at the winery for guests age 13 and over. Sunset dinner cruises May through Oct; reservations required. Open daily. Fee.
where to eat
Post Mountain BBQ. 310 S. Main St.; (830) 613-1055. This restaurant near downtown Burnet focuses on brisket, sausage, and smoked turkey with most of the traditional side dishes, including potato salad, beans, and slaw. Be sure to save room for the peach cobbler! Open for lunch and dinner Wed through Sat. $$.
where to stay
Canyon of the Eagles Resort. 16942 RM 2341; (800) 977-0081 or (512) 334-2070; canyonoftheeagles.com. Day-trippers who would like to extend their stay at this nature park on the shores of Lake Buchanan find 62 lodge rooms, including some located in Hill Country–style cottages with stone accents and metal roofs. All rooms include one or two queen-size beds, a coffeemaker, and hair dryer; the cottage rooms offer two queen beds, a minifridge, and a microwave. The lodge complex includes a pool and restaurant. $$–$$$.
Canyon of the Eagles RV Park and Campsites. 16942 RM 2341; (800) 977-0081 or (512) 334-2070; canyonoftheeagles.com. Along with the beautiful resort, the Canyon of the Eagles Park also offers an RV park with 23 sites (back-in sites only) as well as 3 camping areas. Dogs are welcome on a leash no longer than 6 feet. $.
|
burnet treasure |
| Longhorn Cavern, outside Burnet, is said to be the home of more than one treasure trove. One tale involves who else but Sam Bass, who allegedly used the cavern as a hideout following nearby robberies. Today the main opening of the cave is called the Sam Bass Entrance. No Bass treasure has been found, but parts of the 11-mile cavern are still being explored. | |
| Another Longhorn Cavern tale involves the search for a treasure supposedly buried on Woods Ranch near Burnet. After years of searching, one of the treasure hunters went to seek the advice of a palmist, whose cryptic recommendation was to dig “under the footprint.” There was speculation that this “footprint” might be a foot-shaped impression on the ceiling of one of the Longhorn Cavern rooms. The crew dug below this formation—only to find a container-shaped hole below the surface. Where there had once been a metal container—and possibly a treasure—there was only a rust-lined hole. | |
| The Sam Bass legends are not the only treasure-filled stories flying around the region. One treasure story dates back to an ancient Spanish document regarding an old Spanish mine, located somewhere near Burnet. According to an Austin American newspaper story in the early 1920s, a “pack train of burros carrying forty jackloads of silver was pursued by a band of Comanche Indians and . . . the men in charge of the pack train buried the silver near where the town of Leander is now located.” | |
| No one’s found the Spanish silver cache, but some treasure seekers in this area have struck gold—or gemstones, as the case may be. In 1925, W. E. Snavely of Taylor, who had hunted treasure for 60 years, found a ruby arrowhead weighing 15 karats, along with many other gemstones. |
Continue driving west on TX 29 to the village of Buchanan Dam, a fishing and retirement community. Lake Buchanan, the jewel of the Highland Lakes with more than 23,000 surface acres of water, is formed by Buchanan Dam, the largest multiarch dam in the nation.
Lake Buchanan’s own gem is the freshwater pearl. Created by freshwater mussels in the Colorado River, some pearls found here have been valued at several thousand dollars.
Many anglers are familiar with one of the most popular sites along Lake Buchanan: Black Rock Park. This park boasts improvements such as new campsites and restrooms. Anglers can try their luck with either bank or boat fishing. Boats can launch without charge from the ramp at neighboring Llano County Park.
Birders also find this park a favorite destination. The northeast side of the lake offers one of the best opportunities to spot the American bald eagle from November through March. Other species often sighted include great blue herons, kingfishers, double-crested cormorants, roadrunners, ospreys, red-breasted mergansers, common loons, horned grebes, and Bonaparte’s gulls.
If you’d like to extend your stay at Black Rock, spend the night at one of the park’s campsites, each with a table, grill, and fire ring.
where to go
Black Rock Park on Lake Buchanan. 3400 RM 261 (from Burnet travel west on TX 29, then turn right on TX 261 and drive about 4 miles to the park); (800) 776-5272 or (512) 369-4774; lcra.org/parks/developed-parks/Pages/black-rock-park.aspx. This park offers something for everyone. The northeast side of the lake offers some of the area’s best birding; the park has also been a longtime favorite with anglers. If you’d like to extend your visit to Black Rock, stay at one of the park’s numerous campsites. There are 15 sites with full electrical hookups and 21 others without electricity. Sites can fill up on busy weekends, and they are offered on a first-come, first-served basis. Fee.
Buchanan Arts and Crafts. 17534 TX 29; (512) 793-2858; buchananartsandcrafts.org. The Buchanan Arts and Crafts Guild, the oldest continuously operating artists’ cooperative in the country, hosts this gallery featuring the work of local artists. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, pottery, and jewelry as well as textile items. It’s a great place to buy a bluebonnet painting at a reasonable price. Open Wed through Sun. Free admission.
where to shop
Fain’s Honey. 14817 E. TX 29; (512) 793-2491; fainshoney.com. Fain’s Honey has been a family-owned business since 1926, when it was founded by farmer H. E. Fain. The third generation of Fains now offer natural honey produced in the area as well as molasses, sugar cane syrup, and a variety of honey spreads (try the jalapeño honey spread!). Open Mon through Fri.
where to eat
Tamale King Mexican Restaurant and Cantina. 15405 E. TX 29; (512) 793-2677; tamalekingrestaurant.com. There is a lot more on the menu here than just tamales. In addition to traditional Tex-Mex favorites, there are also some New Mexican–influenced dishes like the Los Alamos flautas or the Santa Fe steak melt served with borracho beans and corn tortillas. They don’t take credit cards here; it’s cash or check only. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$.
If you’re interested in wine, take a drive up to the community of Tow (rhymes with “cow”) on the edge of Lake Buchanan. From TX 29 head north 8 miles on TX 261, then 6 miles on FM 2241.
where to go
Fall Creek Vineyards. 1820 CR 222 (2.2 miles northeast of the Tow Post Office on FM 2241); (512) 476-4477 (Austin sales office) or (325) 379-5361 (winery); fcv.com. Since opening in 1975, Fall Creek has been known as one of the top wineries in Central Texas, winning numerous awards. Located right on the shores of Lake Buchanan, the vineyards here span 400 acres. You can take a tour of the entire operation and sample the wine made on the premises. Open Mon through Sat 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sun noon to 4 p.m. Free admission; fee for tastings.