wild, wild west:This northern Hill Country area is full of the wide-open spaces that characterize much of Texas. This day trip follows US 183 from Austin past Cedar Park and Leander (covered in Northwest Day Trip 03) and continues on to the northwest. As you drive, you’ll notice that the jumbled landscape and intimate valleys of the Llano Uplift and the central Hill Country transition to expansive views of large ranches and open skies, punctuated by tiny ranching communities.
The major town in the area, Lampasas, is the county seat of Lampasas County. Once a health destination because of its sulphur springs, Lampasas is now a commercial center for the ranching and hunting industries. It is also the jumping-off point for Colorado Bend State Park, one of the more remote and primitive parks in the state parks system.
Your day trip will take a slight detour if you’d like to head to Andice, a small community just east of US 183. To reach Andice, turn east on FM 970 and continue east for 1.6 miles. Andice lies at the intersection of FM 970 and FM 2338. With just 25 residents (yes, you read that correctly), little Andice is known for one thing: its general store.
And just how do you pronounce Andice? That depends on who you ask. The most common pronunciation is “Ann-Dice,” although older residents often say “Ann-Diss.” Don’t feel badly if you aren’t certain about the correct pronunciation: The actual name came about as a big misunderstanding. Andice was originally to be named Audice for the postmaster’s young son. Well, the postal officials misread the handwriting on the application, and the rest is history.
where to eat
Andice General Store. 6500 FM 970; (254) 793-3971. Home to what they proclaim are the “world’s best burgers,” this casual eatery is a true general store. Shelves of staples line the small dining room, filled with communal tables (you’ll also find numerous shaded picnic tables outdoors). The Texas-size burgers are worth the trip. Open daily 11 a.m. to 6:45 p.m. $.
The town of Lampasas was first known for its mineral springs that many believed had healing properties. Today the health spas are gone but travelers come to this town as a jumping-off point to the large, wild state park nearby and to enjoy a taste of small-town Texas. The courthouse square, highlighted by a classic courthouse with a red mansard roof, is a National Historic District. Drive around the square to check out the eight historic murals that depict Lampasas’s early days.
where to go
Cooper Spring Nature Park. Hackberry Street between Avenue A and Second Street. Located near the Hanna Springs Sculpture Garden, this 16-acre park is a piece of wild Texas right in the middle of downtown. Native plants grow freely to encourage local birds, butterflies, and wildlife. Free admission.
Hancock Park Pool. 501 E. North Ave.; (512) 556-6831; lampasas.org/index.aspx?NID=157. Dating back to the early 1900s, this pool, fed by natural spring waters, once served as a baptismal font. Today the public pool is still natural, operated without chemicals, all thanks to the powerful springs that continue to feed this expansive pool and keep it a constant 69°F year-around. Even if you don’t want to take a dip, take a drive by this beautiful park just to see the spectacular color of the springwater. Open Thurs through Sun during pool season (June through Aug). Fee.
Hanna Springs Sculpture Garden. 501 E. North Ave.; (512) 556-6997; lafta.org/sculpture. This peaceful sculpture garden is one of our favorite stops in Lampasas; when traveling through town, we’ve often stopped here with our dogs to enjoy a walk along the sculpture path. The garden features both permanent and changing sculptures that range from thought-provoking to just plain whimsical. Our favorites may be Terry Jones’s Music to My Ears, a red guitar created entirely from historic found objects, and Joe Barrington’s Been Fish’en, an antique pickup topped with a catfish that’s truly Texas-size. Nearby, you can see Hanna Springs, a round pool of sulphur water. The springs are now fenced off, but don’t worry, you’ll still be able to get a whiff of the powerful springwater! Open daily. Free admission.
Pillar Bluff Vineyards. 300 CR 111; (512) 556-4078; pillarbluff.com. Take FM 1478 (Naruna Road) west of Lampasas for 3 miles to the Burnet County line, then turn left onto CR 111. Located southwest of Lampasas, this winery is one of the region’s oldest. Known for its estate-bottled chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, the winery features vintages produced from Texas-grown grapes. Along with visiting the tasting room and walking through the vineyards on Fri, Sat, and Sun year-round, you’ll also find live music in the gazebo on the second Sat of each month. Free admission.
where to eat
Storm’s. 201 N. Key Ave.; (512) 556-6269; stormsrestaurants.com. Family owned and operated since 1950, this drive-in was a favorite stop of Elvis Presley when he was stationed at nearby Fort Hood. Enjoy breakfast, lunch, and dinner; the eatery serves everything from breakfast tacos to chicken sandwiches but the tried-and-true remains most popular: the Storm’s Special, a 100 percent Texas beef burger with three patties served with french fries. (Our favorites are the old-fashioned malts!) Along with dining in your car, you’ll also find an adjacent shaded picnic area for Storm’s customers. On the first Sat evening of every month, you can also enjoy an evening of classic cars on display. Open daily, 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. $.
The drive from Lampasas to Bend winds through scenic hills and shady pecan bottoms, quickly leaving the bustling county seat for the slower pace of the ranch and farm land to the west. From Lampasas take FM 580 (Nix Road) west to CR 442 for 23.7 miles. When FM 580 turns south and crosses the Colorado River, you’ll know that you’ve arrived in Bend, named for its position on a bend of the river.
Those lush pecan groves that you saw on the drive in are more than ornamental; they are also Bend’s biggest cash crop. These aren’t any ordinary pecans, either. The trees surrounding Bend are a variety known as the Jumbo Hollis, named for owner Thomas I. Hollis. The product of these trees is true to its name, with larger pecans than other Texas varieties—so large, in fact, that they were award winners at the 1904 World’s Fair.
where to go
Alamosa Wine Cellars. 677 CR 430 (3 miles west of Bend); (325) 628-3313; alamosawinecellars.com. Alamosa Wine Cellars greets visitors to its tasting room with a taste of vintages created from grapes that thrive in the warm Texas climate. The winery is especially noted for El Guapo, a tempranillo wine named by Texas Monthly as one of the top five tempranillos in the state. The red tempranillo grape originated in Spain and Portugal and has now found a home at this San Saba County winery. Open Fri through Sun. Free admission.
Colorado Bend State Park. From Bend, take FM 580 to CR 442, turn right on CR 442 then turn right on the unpaved CR 446 (Colorado Park Rd.) and follow the signs to park entrance; (325) 628-3240; tpwd.state.tx.us. Are you looking for a real getaway—as in composting toilets and truly an end-of-the-road experience? You just might find it in Colorado Bend State Park. This largely undeveloped park above the Highland Lakes chain is located along a canyon of the Colorado River and features 32 miles of trails. The trails offer great places to spot some of the 155 species of birds found in the park, including golden-cheeked warblers, black-capped vireos, and bald eagles, or just enjoy a lazy day wading the river bed then camping out beneath the stars at night. Check-in at this park is equally basic: Instead of a manned ranger station, you’ll find a self-serve check-in at the gate, reached after miles of driving through cattle pastures, open ranch land, and cattle guards. Bring what you need; there’s a basic store near the campgrounds but supplies are limited. Fee.
where to eat
Bad Bob’s Bend Store. 112 CR 438; (325) 628-3523; badbobsbendstore.com. You might think of Bad Bob’s as sort of the Luckenbach General Store of the northern Hill Country—a funky roadside stop that’s filled with music, burgers, and basic supplies for campers at Colorado Bend State Park. The store especially comes to life for Boogie Fest in March, with daily performers during the spring break salute to song. $.