Lobster à l’Américain

Lobster à l’Américain is a treat any time of the year, but it is especially memorable when made at the end of summer or in early fall when fresh tomatoes and herbs are available. Basically, it consists of a tomato sauce, which can be made a day in advance, and pan-broiled lobster. The two are combined and enriched in flavor and texture with the addition of brandy and cream.

Lobsters

• 4 live and active lobsters, 1¼ to 1½ pounds each

• ½ cup brandy

Cooking the Lobsters

1. About 40 minutes before serving, wash the lobsters under cold running water to remove any grit or seaweed. Grasp them from the back at the point where the tail joins the body. Set them to drain in a large pan.

2. Heat a large, heavy-bottomed skillet until it is sizzling hot. While the pan is heating, clip off the lobster legs with kitchen or poultry shears. (You can freeze the legs and use them later for a lobster sauce or bisque.)

3. As soon as the skillet is hot, put in the lobsters. Pour in ½ cup of the brandy and flame it. Cover the skillet and cook the lobsters over low heat for 20 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and uncover.

4. Lift out the lobsters one at a time and, holding them over a large bowl, cut them up with poultry shears. Discard the heads and midsections. Cut each tail into 3 pieces and crack the claws.

Sauce

• ⅛ pound bacon cubed (or 3 to 4 slices of bacon cut up)

• ½ stick butter

• 2 medium onions

• 1 bunch scallions

• 2 cups peeled and seeded fresh tomatoes or 2 cups tomato purée

• 1 bay leaf

• ¼ teaspoon fresh or dried thyme

1. Render the bacon in a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat.

2. While the bacon is cooking, finely chop the scallions and onions.

3. Remove the defatted pieces of bacon from the skillet, add the butter, then when it is hot add the scallions and onions. Sauté until they are soft but not brown and add the tomatoes (or tomato purée), bay leaf, and thyme. Let simmer for 45 minutes.

Final Steps

• ⅓ cup brandy

• Pinch cayenne pepper

• Salt to taste

• ⅓ cup heavy cream

• 2 teaspoons finely cut parsley

• 2 teaspoons fresh tarragon (if available)

1. Empty into a large skillet the bowl of tail pieces, claws, and liquid that drained out while you cut up the lobsters.

2. Pour in the tomato sauce. Add ⅓ cup brandy and the cayenne pepper and simmer for 10 minutes. Salt to taste.

3. Stir in the cream and heat through without allowing the sauce to boil. Add the finely cut parsley and fresh tarragon. Serve with a large bowl of fluffy white rice.