The best cut for roast veal is the top of the round. This is the same part of the leg from which veal scallops are cut and is ideal, as it has no fat, tendons, or gristle. Because this section is only about 2½ to 3 pounds in weight, the roast will be small, but there is no waste and a roast this size will easily serve six people. (This cut of veal is sometimes difficult to find. As we mentioned in the recipe for veal scallops, a European-style butcher shop is usually the best place to shop for it.)
• 2½ to 3 pounds top round of veal
• ½ stick soft butter plus 3 tablespoons for mushroom garnish
• ¼ teaspoon dried thyme or sprig of fresh thyme
• 3 carrots, sliced lengthwise
• Freshly ground pepper
• 2 tablespoons heavy cream
• ½ pound mushrooms
1. Preheat the oven at 300°F for 15 minutes.
2. Cook the roast in a heavy 2-quart casserole with a close-fitting cover. Veal tends to be dry, and cooking it this way will help keep the meat tender and moist.
3. Wipe the veal with a damp cloth and spread 2 tablespoons of the soft butter over it.
4. Arrange the carrots in the bottom of the casserole. Grate pepper over the veal and sprinkle it with the dried thyme. (If you have fresh thyme, place the sprigs with the carrots.) Cover the casserole and set it in the center of the preheated oven for 2 hours.
5. Fifteen minutes before the end of the roasting time, remove the veal and pour off the juices into a Pyrex pitcher or bowl. Before returning the veal to the oven for the final cooking, smooth a tablespoon of the soft butter over the top. Leave off the cover if more browning is desired.
6. Skim off the fat from the pan juices and strain the juices into a 9” skillet. Bring to a boil over medium heat and boil rapidly until the liquid is reduced by half. Stir in 2 tablespoons of heavy cream and taste for seasoning.
7. Sauté the mushrooms for garnishing the veal (see mushroom garnish, page 17).
8. When the veal has been sliced for serving, arrange the mushrooms around the meat. Reheat the sauce briefly and ladle several spoonfuls over the veal, reserving some sauce to pass at the table.