The Arts, Nightlife, Festivals, Sports and Shopping
The Arts
Archaeological Sites
There are various places of archaeological interest in Tuscany. These include Etruscan (8th–2nd century BC) sites at Volterra, Fiesole, Arezzo, Chiusi, Vetulonia and on the island of Elba. There is an archaeological museum in Florence, and other museums in Volterra, Chiusi, Cortona, Asciano, Grosseto and Massa Marittima.
Notable Roman (8th century BC–5th century AD) remains can be seen at Fiesole, Cosa, Roselle, Volterra and Arezzo.
Art and Architecture
Art
Renaissance art is, of course, what Tuscany is most famous for. The most outstanding Renaissance collections are in Florence, in the Uffizi Gallery, the Pitti Palace and the San Marco Museum.
Works of art from the late Renaissance and Mannerist periods, the Baroque, the neoclassical and Romantic, and also the 21st century are exhibited at most galleries and museums in the main cities of the region.
The exciting La Strozzina gallery, in the restored cellars of the Palazzo Strozzi, has finally put Florence on the contemporary-art map. The Palazzo Strozzi itself is a major exhibition site focusing on high-profile art exhibitions (click here).
Architecture
Tuscany is a treasure trove of architectural history (click here).
Churches and civil buildings from the Romanesque period can be found at Pisa, Florence, Lucca, Siena, Pistoia and Arezzo. The most important Gothic buildings are in Florence, Siena, Pisa, Pistoia and Arezzo. Tuscany also abounds in religious and secular Renaissance buildings, Florence being the most important centre.
Sightseeing
Details of important museums and art galleries are in the Places section of this book. Be sure to take advantage of multi-entrance tickets, especially in Florence.
Florence
There are stands in shops and cafés where free leaflets detailing events and exhibitions can be picked up.
The Friends of Florentine Museums Association (Via degli Alfani 39; tel: 055-293 007) arranges museum visits 9–11pm in the summer, with orchestral recitals.
If you plan to visit a lot of museums in Florence, consider a membership to Amici degli Uffizi, which allows free entrances and no queues. ((click here) and also www.amicidegliuffizi.it)
It is advisable to reserve Uffizi and Accademia tickets in advance, or face lengthy queuing (click here).
The new Firenze Card covers three days of museums and public transport (click here). Entry prices for museums and galleries vary greatly, with the Uffizi the most expensive. State museums are closed on Monday, while most other museums close on Tuesday or Wednesday. Most museums also close on 1 May.
Every year, in the spring, Florence has a “culture week” (La Settimana di Beni Culturali), when all the state museums are free. Enquire at the tourist office for more information.
Florence on foot: Walking tours are an excellent way to gain more insight into the city. Link (tel: 055-218 191, and (+39) 338-390 3070; www.linkfirenze.it) is a Florentine-based guiding service that covers personalised thematic tours, ranging from arty walking tours to nature rambles and gastro-tours that visit the markets and Chianti wine estates. All the guides can be recommended, with Guido perfect for art and history, and Silvia the best for foodie experiences.
Florence by rickshaw: Tre Rote; tel: (+39) 338-638 9245; www.pedicabfirenze.it
Florence by Segway: www.segway.it
Florence by horse-drawn carriage: from Piazza Duomo or Piazza della Signoria.
Florence by Vespa: Tuscany Pass (www.tuscanypass.com), which also offers Vespa trips to the Chianti, as well as walking tours and cookery courses.
Pisa
The main sites can be easily visited on foot or by local bus. Buy a joint ticket to see all the sights on the Campo dei Miracoli. A horse-and-carriage ride is a pleasant introduction to the city; prices are negotiable.
Siena
The tourist office can provide a list of authorised guides. With one week’s notice, you can visit any of the Contrada (district) museums that celebrate the Palio and the ancient city traditions: the numbers are available on www.paliodisiena.biz.
Themed Tours
ABTOI, the Association of British Tour Operators to Italy (www.loveitaly.co.uk) is a good place to start when planning holidays to Italy, and for booking unusual themed itineraries ranging from art trails to adventures, such as foodie, wine and walking trails.
Sapori + Saperi (UK tel: +44 (0)7768-474 610; Italy tel: +39 339-763 6321; wwwi.sapori-e-saperi.com) specialises in Slow Travel and Slow Food in Northern Tuscany. These are culinary adventures to meet the local wine and food producers and get a taste of their lives, far from Chiantishire stereotypes.
Tuscany Pass (www.tuscanypass.com) is a reliable website that offers an events calendar and some of the best day trips in Tuscany. Choose from day-long Tuscan cookery courses to Vespa trips to the wine-growing Chianti; arty Florentine walking tours; designer shopping excursions; or even quad-biking to Lucca.
Link (tel: 055-218 191, and 338-390 3070; www.linkfirenze.it): Tuscan tours (as above)
Italy abounds in foodie courses but these are two of the best, which remain small, authentic, professional and memorable:
Camilla in Cucina (tel: 055-461 381; 348-279 3443, email: smaccari@iol.it). Tour the Florentine food markets with chef-guide Silvia Maccari before cooking up a storm in her Florentine home. The experience includes tasting cheese, balsamic vinegar and olive oil, as well as learning about the cultural and historical traditions that are so tightly intertwined with Italian food.
Cucina Giuseppina (tel: 0571-650 242; www.cucinagiuseppina.com) is a warm yet authentic cookery school in medieval Certaldo, not far from San Gimignano. The chef, helped by her wine-specialist son, guides you through regional recipes. The school also offers wine appreciation and truffle-hunting experiences.
Listings
The Florentine is the city’s free bi-weekly English-language newspaper. Issues can be found around town or downloaded from its website (www.theflorentine.net). Articles cover current events in Florence and event listings. The monthly publication, Firenze Spettacolo, also has complete listings of city events; although in Italian, the listings are usually straightforward. Also check the entertainment pages of La Nazione, the regional newspaper, or the Tuesday edition of the national, La Repubblica. Also see the city website: www.comune.fi.it.
Music, Ballet and Opera
Florence
The Maggio Musicale music festival (www.maggiofiorentino.com), held from mid-May to the end of June, is a big event with top names in music, ballet and opera performing in various venues throughout the city. Major performances will then be staged in the Nuovo Teatro del Maggio, Florence’s new opera house and auditorium. This opens in early 2012, close to the existing Teatro Comunale, where tickets are still available (Corso Italia 16; tel: 055-211 158). In summer, concerts are also given in cloisters, piazzas and the Boboli Gardens. Louder (and free) rock concerts are held in Le Cascine park.
During the Estate Fiesolana – Fiesole’s summer festival – concerts, opera, ballet and plays are presented in the Roman amphitheatre, and in many city churches.
The Estate Fiorentina summer music festival, held in July and August, takes over the newly restored Ampitheatre at Le Cascine park; the new contemporary space at Le Murate; as well as city squares, courtyards of major palaces and churches. Rock concerts are relegated to Le Cascine park, while Le Murate becomes an open-air cinema.
Chamber music is often performed in Teatro della Pergola, Via della Pergola (tel: 055-226 4335; www.pergola.firenze.it), a superb example of a 17th-century theatre (inaugurated in 1656). Concerts are generally given at weekends, and are well publicised.
The Fiesole Music School in San Domenico also gives a concert series (tel: 055-597 8527; www.scuolamusica.fiesole.fi.it) and the Orchestra Regionale Toscana’s lively concert series runs December–May.
Florence’s Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99 (tel: 055-212 320; www.teatroverdifirenze.it) is the venue for light opera, ballet, jazz and rock concerts.
Teatro del Maggio: a new era for the opera company in its new location (see left).
The Orchestra da Camera Fiorentina gives bi-monthly classical concerts in the Bargello and the church of Orsanmichele. Their schedule is available at www.orcafi.it.
The Florence Dance Festival, held in late June/early July, features well-known national and international names along with up-and-coming dancers and choreographers (tel: 055-289 276; www.florencedance.org for information).
Lucca
Lucca’s summer festival in July attracts big-name international artists to a range of venues.
“Puccini e la sua Lucca” is a permanent festival dedicated to Giacomo Puccini, with concerts in the Basilica di San Giovanni. Tickets available at the church on performance days from 6pm; www.puccinielasualucca.com. (See Puccini panel, (click here).)
Pisa
Pisa’s opera season runs at the Teatro Verdi from October to February. Tel: 050-941 111 or visit www.teatrodipisa.pi.it.
Pistoia
Held every July, the Pistoia Blues Festival hosts big-name blues, jazz and rock artists for three days of concerts.
Siena
Public performances of rare, unpublished and new music are held in August each year during the Sienese Music Week.
Arezzo
Every July, the Arezzo Wave Love Festival brings a variety of Italian and world-famous musicians to Tuscany to perform free concerts in a five-day music fest.
Theatre
In addition to the main theatres, Teatro della Pergola (see left) and Teatro Verdi (Via Ghibellina 99; tel: 055-212 320; www.teatroverdifirenze.it), there are numerous smaller companies performing regularly in Florence, but most productions are in Italian.
Ticket Sales
Useful ticket agencies in Florence are Agenzia Box Office, Via Alamanni 39; tel: 055-210 804 (Mon 3.30–7.30pm, Tue–Sat 10am–7.30pm); Rinascente, 4th Floor, Piazza della Repubblica; tel: 055-292 508 (Tue–Sat 1.30–7.30pm).
Cinema
Almost all films are dubbed into Italian, but there are a few cinemas that occasionally show original versions, screenings by organisations such as the British Institute, and the odd film festival or special season that will use subtitles rather than dubbing. The main cinema for foreigners is the Odeon (Piazza Strozzi; tel: 055-214 068), which shows recent films in English and is packed with foreign students and expatriates. During the summer, a number of films are shown in the open air, including at Le Murate.
Nightlife
Tuscany’s cities offer a wide variety of music and entertainment, especially in the summer when there are any number of festivals around the region. In Florence, bars and clubs are set up in the warm weather in several piazzas, often with live music. There are a number of late-night bars and clubs dotted around town, but most of the bigger clubs are on the outskirts. Nightclubs come and go, so it’s best to ask around for recommendations. The following places are all in Florence. Elsewhere, your hotel or local tourist office may advise about clubs, bars and events. Note that most clubs close on Monday; and very few get going before 10pm on other nights.
Bars and Live Music
Astor
Piazza del Duomo 20r; tel: 055-284 305. Cocktail bar with dance floor, frequented by Americans.
Be Bop
Via dei Servi 76r; tel: 055-218 799. Cocktail bar with live music: country, blues and jazz.
Il Caffè
Piazza Pitti 9; tel: 055-239 6241. Chic and refined: a cosy spot to chat to friends, day or evening.
Caffè Cibreo
Via del Verrocchio 8r; tel: 055-234 1100. Atmospheric annexe to the famous restaurant, ideal for anything from a morning coffee to a late-night digestivo. Closed Sun and Mon.
Cantinetta dei Verrazzano
Via dei Tavolini 18r; tel: 055-268 590, www.verrazzano.com. Old-fashioned wine bar serving rustic lunch snacks and wines from the owners’ Chianti estate; closed 9pm.
Café Giacosa
Via della Spada 10; tel: 055-277 6328, www.cavalliclub.com. Historic café given a hip makeover by designer Roberto Cavalli, whose own estate wines are served there.
Dei Frescobaldi
Via de’ Maggazini 2r; tel: 055-284 724, www.deifrescobaldi.it. Snack on Tuscan antipasti (salami, cheeses, salads) in this new wine bar founded by the famous Frescobaldi wine dynasty. Their adjoining restaurant is more elegant.
Dolce Vita
Piazza del Carmine 6r; tel: 055-284 595; www.dolcevitaflorence.com. Arty, full-on, fashion-conscious bar in the bohemian Oltrarno quarter that appeals to the Happy Hour and late-night crowd.
Fusion Bar
Vicolo dell’Oro 3; tel: 055-27263, www.lungarnocollection.com. Swanky bar in the Gallery Hotel Art, perfect for tea, cocktails, sushi and showing off.
Jazz Club
Via Nuova dei Caccini 3; tel: 055-247 9700. Relaxed basement bar with live music daily. Small charge to become a member.
Moyo
Via dei Benci 23r; tel: 055-247 9738. Smart cocktail bar in the Santa Croce area with outside seating and delicious cocktails.
Opera del Gusto
Via della Scala 17r; tel: 055-288 190, www.operadelgusto.com. Eclectic new dining club where you can listen to opera or jazz while dining.
Slowly
Via Porta Rossa 63r; tel: 055-264 5354. Trendy cocktail bar with a great aperitif buffet.
Teatro del Sale
Via de Macci 111r; tel: 055-200 1492, www.teatrodelsale.com. Hedonistic dining club run by celebrity chef Fabio Picchi. A Tuscan buffet before live blues, jazz or theatre; membership essential but cheap, as is the good-value buffet dinner.
I Visacci
Borgo Albizi 80r; tel: 055-200 1956. Pleasant arty café with friendly staff, relaxed music and a good selection of wines and cocktails.
Le Volpi e le Uva
Piazza de Rossi 1r; tel: 055-239 8132. Elegant but friendly wine bar for a light supper of superb wines, cheeses, cold cuts and bruschetta; closes 9pm.
Zoe
Via dei Renai 13; tel: 055-243 111. All day (and late-night) arty, contemporary café in trendy Oltrarno that takes you from brunch to cocktails and beyond.
Nightclubs
Cavalli Club
Piazza del Carmine 7r; tel: 055-211 650, www.cavalliclub.com. Flashy club, restaurant and disco bar founded by Florentine fashion supremo, Roberto Cavalli.
Central Park
Via del Fosso Macinante 1, Parco delle Cascine; tel: 055-359 942. Dinner, disco, House music. Tue–Sat.
Dolce Zucchero
Via de Pandolfini 36/38r; tel: 055-247 7894. One of the few clubs in the city centre, it operates a drinks card whereby you pay on exit. Tue–Sun.
Doris
Via de’ Pandolfini 36r; tel: 055-233 7783. Centrally located, multi-level club with music ranging from soft and romantic to high-energy. Wed–Sat.
Meccanò
Viale degli Olmi 10; tel: 055-331 371. One of Florence’s oldest and most famous discos. Vast dance floor, bar and lounge areas. Thur–Sat.
Tenax
Via Pratese 46; tel: 055-308 160. Popular club and live-music venue. Fri–Sat.
YAB
Via Sassetti 5r; tel: 055-215 160; www.yab.it. Established disco-pub.
Festivals
Arezzo
Last Sunday in June and first Sunday in September: Giostra del Saracino – Jousting match in which mounted knights attack a wooden effigy of a Turk.
Chianciano Terme
September: The Chianciano Biennale is a celebration of contemporary art, staged in uneven years (www.museodarte.org)
Cortona
July/August: The Tuscan Sun Festival features concerts, stars, wine and food events, and art exhibitions (www.tuscansunfestival.com).
15 August: Sagra della Bistecca – “Feast of the Beefsteak”.
September (first half of the month): antiques fair.
Florence
Easter Day: Scoppio del Carro, the Explosion of the “Carriage” (actually fireworks on a float). Colourful musical processions.
Ascension Day: Festa del Grillo, Festival of the Crickets in the Cascine park. Sale of crickets and sweets.
End of April: Flower Show, Parterre, near Piazza Libertà – a riot of colour.
May and June: Maggio Musicale Fiorentino – performances of opera, ballet and classical music.
Saturday in late June: Notte Bianca in Oltrarno – all-night festivities, music and food in and around Piazza Santo Spirito.
July-August: Estate Fiorentina – Florence’s summer festival
June–September: Estate Fiesolana in Fiesole (just outside Florence) – music, dance, opera, cinema and theatre.
24 June: San Giovanni – Florence’s patron saint’s day, with a holiday in the city and an evening firework display near Piazzale Michelangelo.
June–July: Calcio in costume (Calcio Fiorentino) – football in medieval costume in Piazza Santa Croce.
7 September: night festival of the Rificolona (lanterns) – procession of carts, lanterns and singers.
First three weeks of December: German Christmas Market – Piazza Santa Croce becomes a festive German market with decorations, mulled wine, sausage and beer, and other German specialities. For Florence events, see www.comune.fi.it.
July: One of Tuscany’s best festivals – with big-name international bands in Piazza Anfiteatro and a range of venues around town.
September – first weekend. Festival of Flowers.
September: Luminaria di Santa Croce – a religious procession.
Lucignano
Last two Sundays in May: Maggiolata Lucignanese festival that includes a procession of carts decorated with allegorical scenes in flowers.
Massa Marittima
Sunday following May 20 and the second Sunday in August: Balestro del Girifalco – crossbow competition.
Montalcino
Last Sunday in October: Sagra del Tordo – Thrush Festival. Pageant, costume ball, banquet and archery at the fortress.
Monticchiello
Last fortnight of July: Il Teatro Povero – “The Poor Theatre” presents a performance written by locals about locals.
Pienza
First Sunday of September: Fiera del Cacio – a fair devoted to Pienza’s famous cheese.
Pisa
May and June: concerts at various annual festivals and fairs, especially during the Gioco del Ponte on the last Sunday of June.
16–17 June: Luminaria di San Ranieri – thousands of candles light up buildings along the Arno. Boat race in the evening of the second day.
Last Sunday in June: Gioco del Ponte.
Mid-September to end October: The annual Anima Mundi International Festival of Sacred Music takes place in Pisa Cathedral. Tel: 050-387 2229/2210; www.opapisa.it.
Pistoia
25 July: Giostra dell’Orso – a mock battle between a wooden bear and 12 knights in costume on Piazza del Duomo.
San Gimignano
July–September: Summer Fair, Estate Sangimignanese – varied programme of events, including ballet, concerts and cinema.
Siena
28–30 April: Feast of St Catherine.
2 July and 16 August: Il Palio traditional horse race. For tickets and hotel bookings, plan six months in advance (www.ilpalio.org).
Mid-July–August: Incontri in Terra di Siena – chamber-music festival featuring top-quality concerts held in stunning settings south of Siena.
August: Sienese Music Week – performances of opera, symphonies and chamber music.
13 December: Festa di Santa Lucia – ceramics festival.
Torre del Lago
July and August: Puccini Opera Festival, Torre del Lago, near the composer’s villa on Lake Massaciuccoli (www.puccinifestival.it).
Viareggio
February: Carnevale – one of the best carnivals in Italy.
Volterra
First Sunday in September: Torneo di Tiro con la Balestra – crossbow tournament.
Outdoor Activities
Sources of Information
For information about green tourism and outdoor activities, contact the nearest office of ENIT, the Italian national tourist board (click here). Also check the Tuscan Regional Tourism website, www.turismo.intoscana.it. As the individual Tuscan APT tourist offices are being dissolved and reorganised, this should be your first port of call.
In English, the most comprehensive guide to green tourism is Wild Italy (by Tim Jepson, Sheldrake Press, 2005).
Hiking
Hiking (usually called “trekking” in Italian) is a popular activity in Tuscany. The region is well served by tough, long-distance trails for serious hikers. But more casual (or less-experienced) hikers should be wary of embarking on any trail without fully researching it, especially given the idiosyncrasies of some Tuscan signposting and maps. At the easy end of the spectrum, the region abounds in short walks, whether along the Versilia seafront or in regional parks, such as the Maremma. The middle spectrum of mixed-ability walkers, those wishing for a walking holiday of at least several days, softened by great scenery, food and wine, are better served by a dedicated walking-tour operator.
Specialist UK tour operators
Whether opting for a self-guided or accompanied walking holiday, booking through a specialist often ensures a better deal, along with tried-and-tested routes, not subject to the vagaries of regional maps or to “lost in translation” itineraries. These tours follow the operator’s wonderfully detailed route, and generally include the transporting of your luggage to the following hotel, which can be luxurious, or a simple farm-stay.
Make the most of walks that combine hills, history and cosy inns by booking through a specialist offering a portfolio of Tuscan trails:
Collett’s (tel: +44 01763-289 660; www.colletts.co.uk)
Gusto tours (www.gustocycling.com)
Inntravel (tel: +44 01653-617 001; www.inntravel.co.uk)
Headwater (tel: +44 01606-720 199; www.headwater.com)
Hedonistic Hiking (tel: +44 0845-680 1948; www.hedonistichiking.com.au)
Long-distance hiking: Serious hikers can follow the Italian Alpine Club (CAI or Club Alpino Italiano: www.cai.it) paths, which crisscross the region. There is a branch of the CAI in Florence (tel: 055-612 0467; www.caifirenze.it).
Two long-distance paths, Apuane Trekking (a four-day trek) and the Grande Escursione Apenninica (GEA, taking 25 days, end to end, along the ridges of the Apennines), have well-marked trails and can be joined at various points. Shorter waymarked trails (such as those in the Maremma or Chianti regions) tend to be less well signposted, so take good local maps (such as those produced by CAI).
All walkers should bear in mind that there is no public right of way across private property. Be particularly vigilant during the hunting season, especially on Sundays. If travelling without a car, forward planning is required. City-to-city transport is generally fine (often quicker by bus than train), but rural transport is poor: either of the “two buses a day” variety, or simply nonexistent.
Areas to Explore
The following are guidelines to some of the more accessible areas of natural beauty. Also see: www.parks.it (Italian Parks and Nature Reserves).
Abetone and the Tuscan-Emilian border
Abetone makes a good base for exploring this forested mountain region, also known as the Alto Appennino. The town has a profusion of Swiss chalet-style hotels. The picturesque medieval centres of Fiumalbo and Cutigliano make good alternative bases but have fewer facilities and lack Abetone’s more dramatic Alpine views. Transport: by public transport, it is quicker to reach Abetone by bus from Modena (in Emilia-Romagna) than by other routes.
Apuan Alps (Alpi Apuane)
Maps and information on mountain refuges are available from Massa, Carrara and most coastal tourist offices. Numerous one-day hikes are available through the Alps, with typical starting points being the villages of Stazzema and Levigliano on the western flanks of the mountains. Almost as appealing is a car journey along the winding mountain roads towards the interior.
Arezzo/Pratovecchio
The Parco delle Foreste Casentinesi (www.parks.it) straddles Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna. The park headquarters is at Pratovecchio, Via G. Brocchi 7; tel: 0575-50301. Alternatively, contact the Arezzo tourist office for more information.
Lunigiana and Garfagnana
Serious hikers should request the Trekking in Lunigiana map, with long-distance trails beginning in Aulla, Fosdinovo, Frignoli and Sassalbo. To appreciate the rural atmosphere, avoid staying in such fashionable coastal resorts as Forte dei Marmi. Instead, choose the Garfagnana hinterland, where Castelnuovo di Garfagnana is picturesque, and Barga, the main town, makes a gorgeous base. Both are convenient for Parco dell’Orecchiella, the national park, 15km (9 miles) north of Castelnuovo di Garfagnana. San Pellegrino in Alpe, 16km (9½ miles) northeast of Castelnuovo, is appealing in summer and winter. Transport: coastal transport is good, with transport into the Garfagnana hinterland less so. If you are planning to explore Garfagnana and Lunigiana by train or bicycle, a small branch line connects Lucca with Aulla and allows bicycles on the train.
The Maremma
If you want to be by the sea, stay in Santo Stefano, Talamone, Orbetello or Castiglione della Pescaia. Otherwise, opt for a ranch or farm near the park. Transport: visitors using public transport should go to Orbetello (by bus or train) or to Monte Argentario (by bus from Grosseto). To visit the nature reserve is trickier: by train to Alberese station (only a couple of trains a day, from Grosseto), then a taxi.
The Mugello
The best website is www.mugellotoscana.it. Avoid staying in Borgo San Lorenzo, the main town, which is not very attractive, or in the semi-industrialised valleys. Instead, choose the countryside or such villages as Vicchio. Transport: for those who wish to explore the Mugello by train or bicycle, the Faenza–Florence train service stops at stations along the Apennine ridge (Vicchio, Marradi, Ronta), ideal places to begin trekking.
The Val d’Orcia, Montalcino, San Gimignano, Volterra
Expect a range of dreamy trails in the Val d’Orcia that combine rolling hills and fortified villages with a mystical atmosphere. Hiking trails linking San Gimignano and Volterra are superb, including several by Headwater (www.headwater.com).
The Via Francigena pilgrimage route passes through some of the loveliest areas, including the Chianti, Lucca, and the Sienese countryside around Montalcino – en route to Rome and Canterbury (www.viafrancigena.com).
Green Sites
These include nature reserves, caves, botanical gardens and museums of rural life. The classification of Italian conservation areas is chaotic and confusing. (See: www.parks.it, the website of Italian Parks and Nature Reserves).
Abetone
On the Tuscan-Emilian border, Abetone is the main ski and summer resort in the northern Apennines (click here). It is also the centre for information on GEA long-distance trails and shorter botanical rambles. For details, contact the Abetone tourist office.
The Apuan Alps and Lunigiana
The Frignoli Botanical Gardens, near Sassalbo (tel: 0187-422 598) have an arboretum and display the full range of plants grown in the Apuan Alps. In Aulla, in Lunigiana, there is an interesting natural-history museum and ecological centre set in historic Brunella castle (daily summer 9am–noon, 4–7pm, winter 9am–noon, 3–6pm; charge; tel: 0187-400 252), as well as neighbouring botanical gardens. From Aulla, visitors can organise tours of glacial moraines, karst gorges and caves.
Garfagnana
Here, Parco dell’Orecchiella, 15km (9 miles) north of Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, is the chief regional park in the Lucca stretch of the Apennines. The main entry point is Corfino. There are also botanical gardens nearby, at Villa Collemandina, Pania di Corfino (tel: 0584-644 911). The local visitors’ centre (tel: 0583-619 002) includes a civilised mountain refuge and nature trails. Contact the Comunità Montana Garfagnana (tel: 0583-644 911) or the tourist office in Barga, the region’s main town. The Orrido dei Bottri reserve is a narrow gorge with sheer cliff faces that can be crossed by serious hikers.
The Maremma
In the Maremma region, the Centro Visite Parco della Maremma (tel: 0564-407 098) is closed to traffic. Entry points are Marina di Alberese (the coast and lovely beach) or Alberese (the landward side, with the park ticket office, shuttle bus, guiding service and free tasting of local produce and wine). The Alberese entrance provides access to the park on foot or by means of the park shuttle bus. In addition to short trails, there are longer trails of 5 or 4km (3 or 2½ miles, lasting about three hours). The waymarked paths are not wholly reliable. It is advisable to take drinking water and a picnic. In Alberese, canoes can be hired to explore the canals, and horse riding is also available.
The Mugello
In the Mugello, the hamlet of Grezzano has Casa d’Erci, which is a farmhouse converted into a museum of rural life and peasant culture. Check opening times on tel: 055-92519.
Cycling
Cycling is increasingly popular in Tuscany, especially on the Chianti route, and in key cities such as Florence, Pisa and Lucca, where bike hire is easy.
Cycling in the city
Lucca: Hire a bike at one of the two tourist offices, one at the East Gate and the other at the West Gate. Also see the advice in the chapter on Lucca (click here).
Florence: there are cycle rental points at the main railway station, as well as on Piazza Santa Croce and Piazza Annigoni (Sant’Ambrogio market). Contact: Alinari, via San Zanobi 38R; tel: (+39) 055-280 500; www.alinarirental.com.
Gusto tours (www.gustocycling.com) rents bicycles, including racers, to villas, hotels, and individual holiday-makers anywhere in Tuscany.
Cycle routes
These are great for families as an alternative to a day on the beach.
Viareggio: from Parco di Migliarino and Torre del Lago, where Giacomo Puccini lived.
Viareggio to Marina di Massa: an easy 23km cycle along the seafront.
Viareggio seafront to Lido di Camaiore, Marina di Pietrasanta and Forte dei Marmi.
Pisa (a harder ride): from the seafront to the top of Monte Serra, crossing nature reserves and passing Etruscan sites and medieval castles (www.pisaturismo.it).
In the Maremma, see www.naturalmentetoscana.it and www.maremmabike.it.
Wildlife-watching
In theory, the Arcipelago Toscano (Tuscan Archipelago, including Elba and the other islands) is a marine park, but in reality much remains unprotected. Illegal hunting continues in the larger parks. The best-run sanctuaries tend to be the smallest, often those administered by the Worldwide Fund for Nature (WWF, www.wwf.it/oasi) or by LIPU, the Italian bird protection society (for which there is a great need). For more information on parks, see Wild Tuscany chapter and A Walk in the Park, pages 70–1.
Dolphin-watching: dolphins live in the waters off Versilia. Between April and September visitors can join research groups that look for dolphins and whales. Contact the CETUS centre in Viareggio (www.cetusresearch.org) and Versilia tourist office (www.aptversilia.it)
Wildlife sanctuary: the Oasi di Bolgheri is the best bird and wildlife sanctuary, a mixture of scrub, lakes and marshy grasslands. This WWF reserve is home to native and migratory birds and small mammals such as wild boar. The reserve lies 10km (6 miles) south of Cecina and is reached by train to Bolgheri. Contact Marina di Cecina or Livorno provincial tourist offices for details.
Bird-watching: Bottaccio Wood, outside Castelvecchio di Compito, in Lucca province, is a marshland nature reserve good for birds and best visited in spring (tel: 0583-65008).
The lakeside habitat at Lago di Massaciuccoli is home to migratory and wintering wildfowl as well as native species, including flamingoes, geese, ducks, cranes and tern. The region’s lone surviving lagoon has suffered from intensive shooting but survives nonetheless. For details of opening times and tours, contact Pisa provincial tourist office.
Lago di Burano (tel: 0564 898 829) in the Maremma, south of Alberese, offers one of the best bird-watching opportunities in Tuscany. This is the southern-most of two lagoons beside the peninsula of Monte Argentario. This WWF lagoon is home to falcons, cormorants, the black-winged stilt, purple and grey herons, with peregrines, ospreys and marsh harriers using the lagoons as feeding grounds. (By road, the reserve is at the Capalbio Scalo exit on the SS1; by rail, travel to the small Capalbio station.) For details of opening times, contact the Parco della Maremma (as above).
Horse riding
There are over 40 centres belonging to the National Association of Equestrian Tourism (Fitetrecante; Piazza A. Mancini 4, 00196 Rome; tel: 06-326 50230; www.fitetrecante.it) or to the Federazione Italiana Sport Equestri (Viale Tiziano 74, Rome; tel: 06-323 3826; www.fise.it).
Here are some suggestions for riding near Tuscany’s main cities:
Maneggio Belvedere, Località. Filetta 58010 Sorano (Grosseto province); tel: 0564-615 465; www.maneggiobelvedere.it.
Club Ippico Senese, Località Pian del Lago, Siena; tel: 0577-318 677; www.clubippicosenese.it.
In the Mugello, north of Florence: Nonna Aida, Via Nazionale, 88, Localita Le Maschere, Barberino di Mugello; mobile tel: (+39) 340-783 9670; www.nonnaida.net
Equestrian Escapes (tel: +44 01829-781 123; www.equestrian-escapes.com) offers tailor-made riding holidays on the Tuscan–Umbrian border.
For horse-riding centres elsewhere in Tuscany, call the Centro Ippico Toscano, Via Vespucci 5r, Florence; tel: 055-315 621.
Fishing
For freshwater fishing,foreigners need a temporary membership of FIPS (Federazione Italiana della Pesca Sportiva) and a government licence issued by the Provincial Administration. Sport fishing can be practised both from the shore and from a boat. In some ports, a special permit is required from the Harbourmaster’s Office.
Golf
There are some decent courses, often with spas attached; the best include:
Golf Club Ugolino, Via Chiantigiana, Grassina; tel: 055-230 1009; www.golfugolino.it
Montecatini Golf and Country Club (18 holes), Via dei Brogi 32, Località Pievaccia, Monsummano Terme; tel: 0572-62218; www.montecatinigolf.com
Cosmopolitan Golf and Country Club, Viale Pisorno 60, Tirrenia-Pisa; tel: 050-33633; www.cosmopolitangolf.it
Golf Club Punta Ala; tel: 0564-922 121; www.puntaala.net/golf
Skiing
Tuscany has a major ski resort at Abetone in the Apennines, north of Pistoia, extending over four valleys with 30km (19 miles) of trails. For information on ski passes and pistes, call Abetone tourist office; tel: 0573-630 145.
Watersports and Diving
At all Tuscan sea resorts it is possible to water-ski and row with hired boats. Yacht-chartering facilities are also available in the resorts of Marina di Pisa and Tirrenia, and Porto Azzurro, Elba (www.aptelba.it).
Diving is very popular in Tuscany, the best areas being around the Argentario on the southern coast, and the islands Giglio, Giannutri, Elba and Capraia. There is red coral, a huge variety of Mediterranean underwater flora, and even a couple of wrecks off Giannutri. Many of the seaside ports have diving clubs that take boats out regularly.
Elba Diving Centre, Marciana Marina; tel: 0565-904 256; www.elbadiving.it
Giglio Diving Club, Via della Torre Campese; tel: 0564-804 065; www.geocities.com/gigliodiving.
Swimming Pools
Many Tuscan hotels, villas and agriturismo (farm-stay) places have pools, and there are public pools in most towns, although these often have limited opening hours.
Public swimming pools in Florence:
Piscina Le Pavoniere, Viale della Catena 2; tel: 055-362 233. During the summer. There is also a bar and pizzeria here.
Piscina Nannini, Lungarno Aldo Moro 6; tel: 055-677 521. Olympic-size pool that is open-air during the summer months.
Siena has its own Piscina Comunale, Piazza Amendola; tel: 0577-47496.
Spectator Sports
Football is the national sport. Almost every city and village has a team and the most important national championship is the “Serie A” (Premiership), the winner of which is eligible to play in the Champions League, against other top European teams. The season runs from September to May. Florence usually does well but has fierce battles with Juventus, its loathed rival. Matches here tend to be safe, family affairs. If you want to see a game, ask your hotel concierge to help.
Horse racing is also popular and there is a racecourse in Florence’s Cascine park: Ippodromo le Cascine; tel: 055-226 076.
For tickets to any sporting event, consult the local tourist office or, alternatively, buy the pink Gazzetta dello Sport newspaper, which gives the lowdown.
Shopping
What to Buy
The quality is exceptionally high, especially in terms of craftsmanship, but prices are generally reasonable. Suggested buys are:
Fashion: dresses, suits, hats, gloves, linen, silk ties and shirts, scarves, knitwear, designer labels and jewellery.
Leather goods: prices are not rock-bottom but the quality is often excellent and the designs appealing. Shoes and handbags are particularly good buys, but there are also boxes and belts, luggage, briefcases and wallets.
Fabrics: silk, linen, wool and cotton.
Handicrafts: lace and tablecloths; pottery, ceramics and porcelain; gold- and silverware; alabaster and marble objects; woodwork; straw and raffia goods; glass and crystal work; art books and reproductions; marbled paper; rustic household goods; prints; antiques; reproduction furniture.
Alcohol: regional wines – along with the well-known Chianti, Montalcino and Montepulciano, wines from the coastal Maremma such as Sassicaia and Ornellaia are celebrated Super Tuscans; also try Vin Santo, Tuscan dessert wine.
Food: extra-virgin olive oil, herbs, locally made pasta, farmhouse cheeses, bottled vegetables, truffles, dried mushrooms, cured ham, salami etc.
Shopping Hours
Food stores and general shops open 8.30am–1pm and 3.30 or 4–7.30pm. They stay open a little later in the summer. Many of the bigger supermarkets stay open through lunch and close at around 8pm. Department stores and other shops in bigger cities stay open all day (9.30am–7.30/8pm), and there is now limited Sunday trading in some places. Many clothes shops are closed on Monday mornings.
Where to Shop
Chain stores such as Oviesse and Standa can be found in most towns in Tuscany, and the upmarket Rinascente is in Florence.
Open-air markets are held once or twice a week in almost all tourist resorts and towns.
Supermarkets are found in most big centres but are otherwise more scarce.
Tobacconists (called tabacchi) sell bus tickets, stamps, cigarettes and tobacco.
Outlet Shopping
The Arno Valley is the cradle of many clothes factories for some of Italy’s top designer labels. They tend to be located between Pontassieve and Incisa Val d’Arno, and have retail outlets with huge discounts. Avoid weekends. The best retail outlets, within easy reach of Florence and Arezzo, include:
The Mall, Via Europe 8, Leccio Regello; tel: 055-865 7775; www.themall.it. Gucci, Cavalli, Giorgio Armani, Sergio Rossi, Yves Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Loro Piana, Agnona, Tod’s, Hogan, La Perla, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ungaro, Ermenegildo Zegna, Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Burberry, Fendi, Stella McCartney, Yohji Yamamoto. Best for bags and shoes. Take the free shuttle from your hotel.
Fendi, Via Pian dell’Isola 66, Rignano sull’Arno; tel: 055-834 981. Best for accessories.
Barberino, Via Meucci snc, Barberino del Mugello; tel: 055-842 161, www.mcarthurglen.it/barberino. Outlet of over 100 stores including designer fashion: Bottega Verde, Bruno Magli, Coccinelle, D&G, Furla, Guess, Missoni, Prada, Puma.
Dolce e Gabbana, Via Santa Maddalena 49, Santa Maria Maddalena; tel: 055-833 1300. Everything from accessories and clothes to household designer goods.
Prada, Località Levanella, Montevarchi; tel: 055-978 9481. A limited selection, but great for bags, shoes and accessories – if you get there early, or queue.
For more information on outlet shopping, go to www.outlet-firenze.com. Dedicated fashionistas may consider investing in a copy of Lo Scopri Occasioni (published in English as Designer Bargains in Italy), which has over 1,000 outlet addresses. Visit www.scoprioccasioni.it.
Shopping in Florence
Despite tourism, consumerism and high labour costs, Florence still has a reputation as a city with high standards of craftsmanship, from silver jewellery to marbled paper. If you wish to visit craftsmen at work, check the craft list on www.turismo.intoscana.it or request the leaflet from the tourist office. It lists the main craftspeople, including the Santa Croce leather school, on Piazza Santa Croce, a popular place to watch skilled Florentine leather-workers.
Most artisan workshops can be found in the Oltrarno neighbourhood, near the Pitti Palace and Piazza Santo Spirito.
Antiques
There are two main areas for antiques shops: Via Maggio and the surrounding streets in the Oltrarno and Borgo Ognissanti, west of the centre. There is a wide choice of goods, but you are unlikely to find a bargain.
Books
Edison, Piazza della Repubblica 27; tel: 055-213 110; www.libreriaedison.it. Large bookshop with an extensive range of language books and guidebooks. Until midnight.
Feltrinelli Internazionale, Via Cavour 12/20r; tel: 055-292 2196. The best bookshop in Florence, with a range of foreign-language books and guides.
Seeber-Melbookstore, Via Cerretani 16; tel: 055-287 339; www.melbookstore.it. A range of books and music as well as a café.
The Paperback Exchange, Via delle Oche 4r; tel: 055-293 460; www.papex.it. Just south of the Duomo, this is no ordinary bookshop: it stocks just about every book ever written on Florence. It also has a vast stock of quality second-hand English and American paperbacks.
Boutiques
Florence is full of top designer boutiques. The most elegant street is the newly pedestrianised Via de’ Tornabuoni where Gucci, Valentino and other big names in fashion have their outlets. Other exclusive streets are the Via Calzaiuoli and Via Roma (for leather goods), Via della Vigna Nuova and Via del Parione.
The top designer shops are: Giorgio Armani, Via Tornabuoni 48r; tel: 055-219 041. For a more affordable Armani, visit Emporio Armani, Piazza Strozzi 14–16r; tel: 055-284 315.
Cavalli, Via de’ Tornabuoni 83r; tel: 055-239 6226. The Florentine designer’s store, with a stylish café, Giàcosa.
Dolce e Gabbana, Via della Vigna Nuova 27r; tel: 055-281 003. Sexy, stylish, often outrageous.
Enrico Coveri, Lungarno Guicciardini 19; tel: 055-287 676. Flamboyant, colourful.
Ferragamo, Via de’ Tornabuoni 2; tel: 055-271 121. The famous Florentine shoemakers have now branched out into accessories and clothes. Upstairs, the Ferragamo Museum (Wed–Mon 10am–6pm) hosts various historical shoe exhibitions.
Gucci, Via de’ Tornabuoni 73r; tel: 055-264 011. The range has expanded, but belts and handbags remain its trademark.
Prada, Via de’ Tornabuoni 51–55r and 67r; tel: 055-283 439. Gorgeous accessories and shoes.
Emilio Pucci, Via de’ Tornabuoni 20–22r; tel: 055-265 8082. Famous for its retro prints,beautiful scarves and dresses.
Raspini, Via Roma 25r; tel: 055-213 077. Upscale boutique carrying top brands.
Valentino, Via dei Tosinghi 52r; tel: 055-293 143.
Versace, Via de’ Tornabuoni 13r; tel: 055-296 167. Haute couture by Donatella.
Also worth checking out are:
Ethic, Borgo Albizi 37; tel: 055-234 4413. One of few fashionable boutiques to offer clothing at reasonable prices.
Christian Dior, Via de’ Tornabuoni 57r; tel: 055-266 911.
Hogan, Via de’ Tornabuoni 97r; tel: 055-274 1013.
Trussardi, Via de’ Tornabuoni 34/36; tel: 055-219 9023.
Ceramics
Sbigoli Terracotte, Via Sant’ Egidio 4r; tel: 055-247 9713. Good choice of hand-painted ceramics in traditional and contemporary designs.
Fabrics
Antico Setificio, Via L. Bartolini 4; tel: 055-213 861; www.anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Fabrics made traditionally, above all silk, still woven on 18th-century looms.
Casa dei Tessuti, Via de’ Pecori, 20–24; tel: 055-217 385. Fine silks, linens and woollens in a historic Florentine store.
Gloves
Madova, Via Guicciardini 1r; tel: 055-210 204. Every kind of gorgeous glove imaginable.
Jewellery
There is still a flourishing jewellery trade in Florence (particularly on the Ponte Vecchio and in Oltrarno, on the south side of the river), though most gold jewellery is now made in Arezzo. The following traditional goldsmiths and silversmiths remain:
Brandimarte, Viale Ariosto 11; tel: 055-230 411. Hand-crafted silver and jewellery.
Donato Zaccaro, Sdrucciolo de’ Pitti 12r; tel: 055-212 243.
Gatto Bianco, Borgo SS Apostoli 12r; tel: 055-282 989. Contemporary designs in gold and silver.
Maurizio Casprini, Via Rosso Fiorentino 2a; tel: 055-710 008. Silversmith.
Exclusive Jewellery
If you can afford to push the boat out, these are some major names:
Buccellati, Via della Vigna Nuova 71/2; tel: 055-239 6579.
Bulgari, Via de’ Tornabuoni 56r; tel: 055-218 012.
Torrini, Piazza del Duomo 10r; tel: 055-230 2401.
Leather
Quality ranges from hand-tooled creations to shoddy goods aimed at undiscerning tourists. For top-of-the-range quality (and prices), start with the designer boutiques in the Via de’ Tornabuoni or in streets around the Piazza della Repubblica. Try the following outlets:
Il Bisonte, Via del Parione 31r; tel: 055-216 232. Leather goods at high prices.
Furla, Via della Vigna Nuova 47r; tel: 055-282 779. Bags and accessories in contemporary designs.
Raspini, Via Roma 25–29; tel: 055-213 077. Superb leather bags and coats.
For more down-to-earth prices, head for the San Lorenzo market northwest of the Duomo, where numerous street stalls sell shoes, bags, belts and wallets; you can also try the Santa Croce area.
Marbled Paper
Marbled paper is very closely associated with Florence and many of the designs echo ancient themes or Medici crests. With their beautiful colours, vibrant patterns and particular smells, the shops are a joy to visit.
Giulio Giannini e Figlio, Piazza Pitti 37r; tel: 055-212 621. Florence’s longest-established marbled-paper shop.
Il Papiro, Via Cavour 55r; tel: 055-215 262; Piazza del Duomo 27r; tel: 055-281 628.
Il Torchio, Via de’ Bardi 17; tel: 055-234 2862. Cheaper than some other shops, you also see the artisans at work.
Markets
Many neighbourhoods have a weekly market. Try the following:
Straw Market (Mercato del Porcellino): hand-embroidered work, Florentine straw, leather goods, wooden objects and scarves; the most touristic market.
Flea Market (Mercato delle Pulci, Piazza dei Ciompi): basically junk, but great fun.
Sant’Ambrogio (Piazza Ghiberti): food, fruit and vegetables (cheaper than San Lorenzo).
San Lorenzo Market (Mercato di San Lorenzo, Piazza San Lorenzo): the fascinating covered market sells vegetables, fruit, meat and cheeses etc, while the surrounding streets are filled with stalls selling clothes, shoes, leather goods and jewellery.
Cascine Market (Mercato delle Cascine, Tuesday mornings only): fresh produce, household goods and clothing.
Artisan Market (Piazza Santo Spirito, 2nd Sun of the month, Sept–June): craft market with some organic food.
Pharmacy
Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, Via della Scala 16; tel: 055-436 8316. Housed in a frescoed chapel, this fascinating perfumery and herbalist was founded by monks in 1612. It sells herbal remedies and beautifully packaged perfumes.
Shoes
Florence is still a good place to buy shoes at reasonable prices.
Cresti, Via Roma 9r; tel: 055-214 150. Beautiful shoes at much lower prices than at Ferragamo.
Ferragamo, Via de’ Tornabuoni 16r; tel: 055-292 123. Italy’s most prestigious shoemaker, providing hand-tooled shoes and beautifully crafted ready-to-wear collections.
The roads leading from the Duomo to Santa Maria Novella station have a good range of slightly cheaper shoe shops.
Shopping in Siena
Clothes and Shoes
The main shopping streets in Siena are Banchi di Sopra and Via di Città. They are lined with chain stores and individual stores selling a range of clothes and footwear.
Crafts
A wide choice of wrought-iron and copper, ceramics, crystal and stained glass. Giogi Leonardo & Co, at Antica Siena, Piazza del Campo 28 (tel: 0577-46496) sells beautiful blue and yellow porcelain, while Il Papiro (Via di Città) sells handmade paper and gifts. Acquarelli Originali (Via Monna Agnese 14–16), a tiny store near the Duomo, sells hand-painted watercolours.
Food and Wine
Siena is known for its pastries and cakes, particularly panforte, which is made from a sweet dough, flavoured with vanilla and full of candied citrus fruits. The most famous maker of such specialities is Nannini, at Piazza Matteotti 32 and Piazza del Monte 95/99, and Bar Pasticceria Nannini at Via Banchi di Sopra 24 (www.grupponannini.it).
Siena Province produces superb wines including Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The Fortezza Medicea (tel: 0577-228 811; www.enoteca-italiana.it) displays and sells regional wines in the fortress (Mon–Sat until 1am). Gino Cacino, Piazza Mercato 31 (tel: 0577-223 076) sells superb cheeses, salami and hams.
Shopping in Volterra
Crafts
Ali, Piazza Martiri della Liberta; tel: 0588-86078; www.alialabastro.it. This is one of the oldest and best alabaster workshops in town. Admire the wide range of picture frames, chess pieces, mosaics, vases, table lamps and sculptures – all made by local craftsmen.
Other Activities
Children
Tuscany has much to offer children of all ages, from medieval castles to ice creams galore and plenty of child-friendly restaurants. There are several good parks, nature reserves and numerous opportunities for horse riding, cycling and swimming. Much of the coast of Tuscany, particularly the well-equipped resorts near Viareggio and the beaches on islands such as Elba, is also great for children.
Tuscan festivals can be fun, especially the Lenten carnivals, the horse races, the jousting, boat pageants, and all the tiny food festivals that take place throughout the region. To find out what’s on, above all in summer, check the listings in La Repubblica or La Nazione, as well as enquiring at the tourist offices. If you read Italian, buy Firenze Spettacolo, which has a good children’s section: Città & Ragazzi.
Some of the suitable places in Tuscany for children are:
The Boboli Gardens (Giardini di Boboli) in Florence are fun for children to clamber around. There is an amphitheatre, strange statues and grottoes, and a handy café.
The Museo dei Ragazzi in Palazzo Vecchio offers special children-friendly tours of the Palace led by actors in costume, as well as activities and workshops.
The Cascine, Florence’s other main park with a tiny zoo.
Giardino dei Tarrocchi (tel: 0564-895 700, near Capalbio) is a bizarre garden full of Niki de Saint-Phalle’s colourful fantasy figures.
Ludoteca Centrale, Via Fibbiai 2, Florence; tel: 055-247 8386, is a fun children’s centre with games, music and audiovisual equipment for the under-sixes.
Pinocchio Park (Parco di Pinocchio) at Collodi, near Pisa, is an obvious, if old-fashioned choice for children (tel: 0572-429 364; www.pinocchio.it; 8.30am–sunset).
Pistoia Zoo, Via Pieve a Celle, Pistoia; tel: 0573-911 219; www.zoodipistoia.it. Compact zoo, but one of the region’s best.
Zoo Fauna Europa, just south of Poppi; tel: 0575-529 079. A conservation centre for such breeds as the lynx and the Apennine wolf. 8am–sunset.
Spas
Tuscany has a large number of authentic thermal spas, offering a range of health and beauty treatments from mud baths to hydro-massage, or just the opportunity to relax in hot springs. Check www.turismo.intoscana.it (look at the Terme e Golf section). The Consorzio Terme di Toscana, presso Terme di Montecatini (Via Manzoni 5; tel: 0572-910 357; www.termeditoscana.com) also provides information.
Here is a list of Tuscany’s top thermal spas:
Bagni di Pisa, San Giuliano Terme; tel: 050-88501; www.bagnidipisa.com. Atmospheric spa resort, with distant views of the Leaning Tower – a romantic retreat.
Grotta Giusti Spa Resort, Monsummano Terme; tel: 0572-90771; www.grottagiustispa.com. Historic spa resort around an elegant villa that is proud of its restorative spa caverns and innovative treatments; golf course nearby.
Fonteverde Natural Spa Resort, San Casciano dei Bagni; tel: 0578 57241; www.fonteverdespa.com. A lovely rural setting. The spa is equally strong on Mediterranean and oriental treatments. One of the best spas in the country.
Petriolo Spa & Resort, Pari-Civitella Paganico; tel: 0564-9091; www.atahotels.it/petriolo. Timeless resort near Siena, offering everything from an Ayurvedic massage to sweating in a dry-ice cave.
Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf Resort, Saturnia; tel: 0564-600 111; www.termedisaturnia.it. Fed by historic springs, this exclusive pampering resort boasts a peaceful setting in the Maremma. The sulphurous spa boasts hot springs, waterfalls and a recreation of Ancient Roman baths. Elegant suites and an 18-hole golf course.
Terme Sensoriali, Parco Acqua Santa, Chianciano Terme; tel: 0578-68480; www.termesensoriali.it. Innovative spa with an eclectic approach, from classic treatments based on the healing powers of the thermal springs to therapies inspired by Ayurveda.