Chapter 9

Styling Your Natural Hair

IN THIS CHAPTER

Keeping it simple with wash-and-go styling

Braiding for protection and style

Looking and feeling good with healthy twists and locs

Caring for and wearing hair extensions and wigs

Coloring and bleaching to enhance your curls

Using a blow dryer to straighten or stretch your hair

Ahh, this is what I call the fun chapter. You know why? Because you have almost no limits in the creative art of natural hair styling. And because you have natural curly hair, you have so much versatility when it comes to styling options. Natural hair that hasn’t been chemically treated is magical and can pretty much do anything.

In the beginning of your natural hair journey, you may feel completely lost. You not only have to figure out what products work best for you, but after years of straightening your curls, you have no idea how to style them. Whether you’re newly natural or seasoned naturalista, you have no shortage of natural hairstyles to try out. Keep in mind, styling your hair requires you to develop a rhythm, so practice makes perfect, and it becomes easier the more you do it. You may go through a lot of trial and error at first, but after you get the hang of it, you’ll be switching your style up all the time.

This chapter points you to a few go-to styles that you can easily create yourself in the comfort of your own home or suggest to your stylist on your next salon visit. The world is your oyster if you’re open to experimenting with your beautiful curls. After you try the basic steps of a style, do it your way, and have fun with your hair.

Wearing a Wash-and-Go

When you don’t want to use heat to dry your hair, you can wear a wash-and-go. A wash-and-go is almost as simple as it sounds. It’s similar to a protective style because it’s very low manipulation and requires low maintenance. Folks who like to keep their hair away from heat, rejoice! A wash-and-go is wearing your hair in its natural curl pattern after washing and conditioning. You can use your fingers, a detangling brush, or wide-tooth comb to detangle and apply product, but you don’t use tools or anything that requires highly manipulating your hair.

To wash-and-go like a pro, follow these basic steps:

1. Wash your hair. Blot with a towel to remove dripping excess water. But keep it wet/damp otherwise.

   Flip back to Chapter 4 for a refresher on wash-day tips.

2. Apply a leave-in conditioner.

3. Working in sections, starting at the nape of the neck, apply some styling gel, curl cream, or whatever your favorite curl-defining product is and, using your fingers, rake the product through your hair from root to ends.

   This step helps enhance your curls or add more curl definition, especially if you have 4a to 4c hair texture. (Chapter 3 has all the details on hair texture.)

After you apply your last product, you can literally just head out the door, letting your hair air dry (see Figure 9-1).

To keep your hair wet during this process, you may need to add a little extra water, so keep a spray bottle handy.

PROTECTIVE STYLING

The more you touch, style, and manipulate your hair, the more wear and tear you put on it. To help keep your hair healthy, you can put your hair in a protective style — a style that’s low maintenance and doesn’t require you to touch it much after you put it in. The styles I cover in the sections “Braiding Your Hair” and “Twisting Your Hair,” in this chapter, are inherently protective. The section “Wearing Extensions and Wigs” in this chapter also gives you extra insight about how to use them properly to protect your curls.

© StratfordProductions/Adobe Stock

FIGURE 9-1: Air drying your wash-and-go cuts down on daily styling time.

Braiding Your Hair

African people have been braiding their hair for centuries. Seriously, the history of hair braiding dates back to 3500 B.C. In fact, many African tribes were identified by certain braiding patterns and hairstyles. These different patterns and styles were also symbolic of someone’s social status, wealth, religion and much more.

Traditionally, braiding was a bonding moment passed down through generations because of the amount of time it could take. And to this day, people still bond over hair braiding moments.

Of course, braiding has evolved over the years, particularly braids that have been sensationalized by celebrities, such as micro braids (which are super tiny braids) and fishtails (which are like cornrows, but with two strands instead of three —more on that later), but it’s safe to say that hair braiding will never go out of style and will always be a go-to for naturals all around the world.

You can create braids with or without extensions. Braids (also called plaits) come in many patterns and sizes. You create this hairstyle by interlacing three or more sections of hair into a cylinder-like structure. When you do it properly, braiding your hair can be a good, protective styling practice and a beautiful style to wear at the same time. Braids can not only protect your hair from breakage due to constant manipulation, but — depending on how you style them — they can also look very fashionable and chic (see Figure 9-2).

© Unique Dandridge/Adobe Stock

FIGURE 9-2: Braids protect your hair from constant manipulation and can give you a sleek, polished look.

Before I get into the actual styling, here are some tools that you might need to create braids at home:

• Blow dryer (optional)
• Braiding hair — loose human or synthetic hair that you use to braid your hair that is not your own (optional)
• Edge control, styling gel, or pomade
• Wide-tooth comb
• Rat tail comb
• Duckbill, butterfly clips, or hair ties to secure parted sections
• Shears for cutting/trimming braiding hair (optional)
• Small elastic bands
• Light oil for the scalp

Although many people find braiding a fun low-maintenance style, you absolutely must avoid any too-tight braiding styles. If you braid your hair too tightly, you can cause your scalp to itch, damage your hair strands, and in the worst cases, develop traction alopecia. Traction alopecia (TA) is hair loss that results from prolonged and repetitive tension on the scalp. You typically first notice TA around the front hairline while it starts to thin and recede. If you catch it early, you can reverse your TA, but if not, your hair loss can be permanent.

Follow these steps for healthy and successful braiding:

1. Always start with freshly washed and conditioned hair.

   Use a clarifying shampoo to remove any product buildup and residue. Then use a protein treatment followed by a hydrating conditioner to create a strong foundation for braiding (pop back to Chapter 7 if you need help choosing your products).

2. Completely dry your hair before braiding.

   Wet hair is more fragile. When it’s wet, it expands; when it dries again, it tightens.

   You might want to straighten or stretch your hair with a blow dryer before braiding to reduce the curls, which can make it easier to braid.

3. Use a rat tail comb for parting sections of your hair.

   Have some hair ties and clips handy to help keep your sections separated.

4. Apply a little edge control or your favorite pomade (something to make it tacky) to your hair shaft before braiding.

   This type of product smooths flyaways, helps you maintain control while braiding, keeps your braids neat, and provides some added moisture to your strands.

If you start to feel any itching or notice any small bumps on your scalp (particularly around the hairline), or if your hair just feels too tight and uncomfortable after braiding, this indicates the braids are too tight. Gently comb out that braid immediately and then re-braid with less tension. The goal is taut, not too tight.

Depending or your hair type, you can wear braids for four to six weeks. When that time is up, don’t repeat the same style. Changing it up to a different style helps prevent prolonged, repetitive tension on your scalp.

Box braids

Like other braiding styles, box braids have been around for centuries. Worn by several tribes from the African diaspora, they reemerged in popularity in the U.S. thanks to Janet Jackson’s role as Justice in the movie Poetic Justice back in 1993. Fun fact: Box-braids didn’t have the name recognition until Janet wore them in this movie. If you haven’t seen the movie, box braids are individual braids that you section off into box-shaped divisions (see Figure 9-3).

© Krakenimages.com/Adobe Stock

FIGURE 9-3: Box braids.

You can do box braids yourself, especially if they are jumbo or chunky (the bigger and thicker variant of box braids), but most people get their box braids done by someone else. Depending on the speed of your stylist and the desired size and length of the braids, box braids can take from two to four hours to install. Stylists typically use loose human or synthetic hair to create these free-hanging braids, but some people ditch the extensions and braid their own hair.

To do it yourself, follow these steps:

1. Part your hair into as many square or triangular sections as you want. For larger braids, do fewer sections. For smaller, do more.
2. Divide each section into three equal parts.
3. Intertwine the three parts to form one single braid, twisting a silicone elastic band or hair tie around the end of each braid.

If you go to a stylist and they use loose hair to add length and fullness, your box braids might feel a little uncomfortable and inflexible at first. To add in this loose hair, your stylist forms a knot around your hair at the base of the braid, close to the scalp, to secure the loose hair to your hair. Don’t worry, they’ll become more comfortable after they’ve had a few days to loosen up.

If you feel a little discomfort, don’t worry about it. But if you’re experiencing a lot of pain, remove the braids immediately to avoid any damage. Because the knot anchors the loose hair to your natural hair, if it’s installed poorly (too tight or too heavy), the box braids can cause breakage and possibly lead to TA.

Knotless braids

Knotless braids can take you (or your stylist) between four and ten hours to install, depending on the density of your hair. The time it takes to finish is substantially different from box braids because the size of knotless braids is much smaller in diameter. You start knotless braids with your natural hair and then about midway down, you feed in the loose human or synthetic hair. This approach gives your braid a seamless look, making it appear that the hair is all your own.

Because you use the feed-in technique, knotless braids apply less tension on your strands, giving you a pain-free experience and minimizing breakage.

After you install them, you can style your knotless braids right away, and you don’t need to wait for them to loosen up. They’re flexible immediately. Because lightweight knotless braids put less stress on your curls, you can style them however you desire.

Cornrows

I think it’s safe to say that cornrows are the most popular braiding technique out there. Cornrows are perfect for summer, spring, winter, or fall. They’re great for when you just don’t feel like dealing with your hair in any capacity for several weeks, but still want to keep it cute (as shown in Figure 9-4). Although traditional front-to-back cornrows never go out of style, braid stylists have definitely explored their creative side and come up with some breathtaking work. It blows my mind when I think about what it takes to execute these beautiful patterns.

Cornrow hairstyles on women have a sustained popularity throughout the Somali peninsula, West Africa, and practically all of Africa as a whole. Ancient art depicting men wearing cornrow hairstyles have been traced as far back as the fifth century B.C. We see it on warriors, kings, queens, and heroes. In the U.S., cornrows came back into style during the 1960s and 1970s, and they remain popular among women, men, and children today.

© deagreez/Adobe Stock

FIGURE 9-4: Cornrows are beautiful on their own or as a foundation for crochet styles.

To give yourself cornrows, braid your hair into various patterns, from straight rows to zig-zags, close to the scalp. These braids typically mimic a cornfield — hence the name cornrows. You can make them any size you want. Depending on your or your stylist’s skill level and the complexity of your style, cornrows can take you anywhere from 20 minutes for a simple (two to six row) style, up to four hours for a more detailed style (see Figure 9-5).

Although you can create cornrows with added human or synthetic hair, I introduce you to doing cornrows by showing you how to create a simple three-braid style that uses only your own hair. Follow these steps to put your hair in simple cornrows:

1. Wash and detangle your hair.

   Go back to Chapter 4 if you need a refresher on the proper wash techniques.

2. Part your hair into three rows from front to back.

   Make sure the middle section is evenly centered between the other two rows.

3. Use small clips to keep the sections separated.

   

   © gorgeoussab/Shuttterstock.com

   FIGURE 9-5: Cornrows in an intricate design.

4. Starting near your temple on one side of your head, use your fingers to separate about an inch of hair into three evenly divided sections.

   Step 5 is optional.

5. Apply some edge control throughout the hair if you want to tame flyaways.
6. Take the hair on either the left or right section and bring it over the top of the middle section.
7. Take the section of hair on the opposite side from the section you used in Step 6 and bring that section over the middle.

8. Repeat Steps 6 and 7, incorporating hair underneath the sections as you go.

   Take a little hair from under the section that you braid and add that hair to the braid to continue the cornrow and all the hair is in.

9. After you reach the point where you no longer have hair from your scalp to add into the braid, repeat Steps 6 and 7 until you’re done with that section, then secure the braid by twisting a silicone elastic band or hair tie around the end.
10. Repeat Steps 4 through 9 on the remaining sections created in Step 2.

To give yourself a French braid, you can use the cornrow technique. The only difference is that you cross-section the hair under, while cornrows cross over.

Crochet technique

If you have the hang of cornrowing, you can try your hand at the crochet technique (also known as latch hook braiding). It’s a very popular way to add extensions to your hair and is an excellent option for when you’re transitioning because it’s a great low-manipulation technique that allows you to grow without interruption. The crochet technique is different from sew-ins because instead of using extensions that have wefts, you use a crochet needle or hook to secure loose hair to the braids. (There’s more information about extensions later in this chapter.)

Cornrows (as previously seen in Figure 9-4) act as the foundation or the base for the selected crochet style but aren’t necessarily a part of the finished look of the style. Crochet styles are a great option when you’re ready to protect your hair because, with a crochet style, you use little to no heat and no excessive tension.

To use the crochet technique, you first cornrow your hair, and then you use a crochet hook (yes, that kind of crochet hook as shown in Figure 9-6) to attach a hair extension to your hair. Although it takes a little practice, the technique itself isn’t too difficult. To see examples of the process, search YouTube for “crochet braid technique.”

© Photography by Wardell Malloy with crowdMGMT

FIGURE 9-6: Use a crochet hook to loop extensions onto your cornrows.

Goddess braids

Goddess braids are basically thicker cornrows. Like cornrows, you braid them close to your scalp, but they raise up higher because they’re bigger in size. You can style them in various chic and fashionable ways for every occasion. Because of the size and the height, you pretty much always need to add loose human or synthetic hair to achieve this look.

You can also opt for goddess box braids. Goddess box braids are a softer version of traditional box braids (because they have curly tendrils that hang from the ends of the braid. The curls make the style feel effortless and carefree. You can create goddess box braids individually or by using the crochet technique.

Twisting Your Hair

Twist sets are by far the most popular go-to style for naturals across the board. You can create them easily, and you can wear them as-is or separate them into beautiful defined curls (known as a twist out). Twists are sort of like braids, but more simplified. Whereas you create braids with three small sections of hair, you create a twist by wrapping two small sections of hair around each other in the same direction. Normally, you create twists on damp hair while using a setting product (as shown in Figure 9-7). After you twist, you then air dry those twists or put them under a hood dryer.

Twist sets are very healthy for your hair because they don’t apply any stress to your strands. You can often wear twist sets for as long as two weeks. You use the same tools as braiding to twist, so check out the supply list back in the section “Braiding Your Hair, earlier in this chapter.”

Two-strand twists

With two-strand twists, you take two sections of hair and wrap them around each other in the same direction, from the roots all the way to the ends. You can do as many as you want, depending on whether you want loose or tight curls (more will yield tighter, less will yield looser). You can leave your twists as-is when you finish twisting, or you can separate them as a twist out after your hair dries. Two-strand twists work for all hair types, but they provide the most benefit in types 4a to 4c because they aid in curl definition and elongation, and 4a to 4c hair experiences a lot of shrinkage compared to the other types (see Figure 9-8).

© okrasiuk/Adobe Stock

FIGURE 9-7: A stylist can show you how to perfect your twists at home.

© Mat Hayward/Adobe Stock

FIGURE 9-8: Naturalistas who have 4a to 4c hair can rock a two-strand twist like nobody else.

Senegalese twists

Senegalese twists started in Senegal, West Africa (hence the name). These twists are great for promoting natural hair growth when you’re choosing to wear a protective, low-manipulation hairstyle. Senegalese twists typically have a smooth, glossy finish and are very durable. (They can last for up to three months if you take care of them properly.)

You can create Senegalese twists by wrapping braiding hair around the roots of sectioned hair, and then twisting from the roots to the ends, using the two-strand twist technique as described in the preceding section.

Choose a braiding hair made from Kanekalon or Toyokalon fiber for this twist because these synthetic hairs give a smooth, glossy finish to your twists and prevent the twists from unraveling prematurely. Depending on the length of your hair, you can create these twists with your natural hair. But if you want ultimate longevity, add synthetic braiding hair.

You can install Senegalese twists in two different ways: the traditional two-strand twist technique (see Figure 9-9) and the flat-braided crochet technique. No matter which technique you choose, below are items you need for installation in addition to the tools listed in the section “Braiding Your Hair”:

• Five to seven packs of synthetic braiding hair
• Latch hook crochet needle, if necessary
• Boiling water or a lighter to seal the braid ends

Traditional Senegalese twists generally take up to eight hours to install and half that time to uninstall, whereas you can install crochet Senegalese twists in four hours and uninstall them in under two hours.

Flat twists

You can create a flat twist by following the steps for cornrows, but you use two sections of hair instead of three. You can leave your hair in rows of flat twist, or separate and fluff your dry hair for a twist out. Depending on how much definition you want in your twist out, you can go with six to ten rows. More rows means smaller twists, which gives you the most curl definition. Fewer rows give you less curl definition.

© Erin Brant/Stocksy/Adobe Stock

FIGURE 9-9: There are two different ways to install Senegalese twists: Traditional two-strand and flat-braided crochet.

Rocking Your Locs

Locs (also called dreads, locks, and dreadlocks) is a hairstyle made up of matted hair that falls into rope-like strands. Basically, locs are separate masses of interlocked kinks and knots that grow into a coil that resembles yarn. You can form these strands organically if you avoid combing and brushing your hair. Over time, your hair separates, tangles, interlocks, and meshes together to form these single rope-like strands.

Like most styling techniques, the process of starting locs has evolved over the years, and you can achieve a locked hairstyle in several ways:

• No manipulation/freeform: The easiest locking technique. Just let your hair do its own thing. Simply stop combing your hair, allowing it to tangle and mesh, so that the locs form on their own. You don’t need to retwist or interlock your new growth. Also, you can start these locs with practically any length of hair.
• Comb-twists: The most popular technique for starting locs. Apply gel or styling cream to your hair, and then use a small-tooth comb to create cylinder-like coils by inserting the comb at the root of a section of hair and twisting the comb in a circular motion while moving down the length of the hair. You need hair that’s at least 2 inches long to start comb-twists because you won’t have enough hair to work with otherwise.

  THE HISTORY OF LOCS

  Many people wear locs as a trend or a fashion statement, not knowing the deep, rich culture and religious history they hold. Folks have worn locs since the beginning of civilization to show social power, indestructible spiritual connection, and even healing. You can trace locs back to many different cultures in history. According to scholars, kings in Africa wore locs to represent authoritative positions after winning battles, and other kings believed that locs harness energy and protected their crown chakra. (The crown chakra is in the head. It’s the most spiritual of all seven chakras, and is the source of our wisdom, consciousness, and connection to higher power.) After emancipation, African Jamaicans wore locs to consciously oppose their former oppressors. Some cultures formed locs after taking vows for religious reasons to not touch their hair over a period of time. Each culture brought forth different reasons for wearing locs, and people wear them in practically every region across the world today (see accompanying photo).

  

  © Cavan Images/Adobe Stock

• Interlocking: Essentially a crochet technique. You use a crochet hook to repeatedly pull your hair through itself near the scalp to create a base for your locs to grow and form. You can interlock in three ways: two-point, three-point, and four-point. Each rotation makes you pull your hair through the roots, using different patterns to lock your hair. You can also use this technique to create sisterlocks, which are very tiny locs. Tiny locs give you more styling versatility than larger locs because they are closer in size to a regular hair strand. Aim to re-interlock your hair every eight weeks or so to incorporate your new hair growth.
• Palm rolling: You can use this technique to help you maintain your locs as your hair grows to keep them tight and polished. Apply some locking gel to the new hair growth at the base or root of your loc. Rub your fingers back and forth to incorporate the gel and get the new hair moving. Then, flatten both of your hands like prayer hands, putting your loc in between and lightly holding. Then, roll or rub your hands back and forth so your loc rolls back and forth also. Do that until all new hair is fully incorporated, then clip the loc at the bottom until it is dry. Repeat for all your locs.
• Braids: The braiding loc technique is super easy. Simply part your hair into your desired loc size, and then three-strand braid each section. Over time, the braids swell and mesh into locs when you leave them alone.
• Two-strand twist: Very similar to the braiding technique, but you use two strands to twist from roots to ends.
• Backcombing: Best for people who have looser curl patterns. Use a rat tail comb to tease sections of hair, then roll each section of your hair between your palms to secure each loc. To start locs this way, you need a hair length of at least 5 to 6 inches so you have enough to work with.
• Faux locs: This technique uses loc extensions to avoid going through the growing phase. These extensions come in many colors, widths, and lengths, and you can attach them by using a latch hook crochet needle.

You can get more info about how to do any of these loc-starting techniques by searching for the technique of your choice online and watching tutorial videos.

Wearing Extensions and Wigs

Ah, yes — the opulent world of hair extensions. I’ll be real; almost everyone wants voluminous, thick, gorgeous hair that makes them feel like they just stepped right out of a magazine. But remember, everyone has different hair textures and types, and you may not be able to easily get the look you want.

Also, many people don’t want to have a stylist cut their hair really short because they simply don’t have the patience for the transitioning stage. If that’s you, adding hair can protect your shorter natural hair while it grows out.

From sew-ins and clip-ins to wigs, you can choose from so many options that can help add length and volume while you grow out your natural hair. Although everyone can try these options, not all of the options work for natural and curly hair. In the following sections, I share my go-to protective styles that use added hair. When you know how to do and use them properly, these styles can give your hair a break from constant manipulation, allowing it to grow with less stress on your strands.

Clip-in extensions

If you’re looking to achieve length, volume, and body in just a matter of minutes, clip-in extensions can give you just what you’re looking for. Clip-ins are a temporary way of attaching wefts (tracks of human or synthetic hair sewn onto horizontal strips of fabric, as shown in Figure 9-10) to your hair by using multiple small, pressure-point wig clips.

Courtesy of KnappyHair Extensions

FIGURE 9-10: TextureMatchKit by KnappyHair.

A set of clip-in extensions should include anywhere from three to ten wefts in different sizes that you can place in several areas of your head. These different sizes help you select the perfect weft to place at your nape area, high occipital bone area, sides, crown and near the hairline. You can install clip-ins very easily and remove them daily.

Although some people decide to keep the clips in overnight, I don’t recommend sleeping on them because the metal clips can cause friction on your strands while you toss and turn throughout the night. This friction can cause damage to your strands, resulting in breakage.

You can install clip-ins when your hair is in its curly state or after you blow it out straight. Follow these steps to achieve a perfect clip-in install that you can easily do in less than 30 minutes:

1. Find clip-ins that have hair that best matches your natural hair texture.

   Finding a good match makes the installation look more natural. Plus, the clip-ins will be versatile because you can wear them curly or straight. If you need help figuring out how many or what type of clip-ins you need, consult a salesperson — they know what they’re talking about. To be clear, I feel like you can absolutely shop online for clip-ins because there is so much variety available. You can go to a website and find your perfect texture and amount. But if you feel more comfortable going to a store, by all means, do that.

2. Use a rat tail comb to part your hair where you would like to attach (or lay) your clip-ins.

3. Using duckbill clips, butterfly clips, or hair ties, hold each section separately after parting in Step 2.

   Separating each section of your hair allows you to have complete control over where you attach your wefts.

4. Starting at the back of your head near the nape of your neck, backcomb (tease) your hair just a little at the roots near the parting.

5. Spray the teased roots with a little flexible holding spray.

   Steps 4 and 5 give the clips a stronger foundation to latch onto in your hair, making the clips very secure.

6. Place clip-ins about a half of an inch to an inch behind the hairline for the most natural and seamless results.

   Make sure all the clips on the weft are open before you place them where you want to attach them.

7. After you add enough wefts to achieve the right length and fullness, style as desired (see Figure 9-11).

To get longevity out of your clip-in extensions, treat them with care. Remove the clips from your hair, then shampoo, condition, and gently detangle them. Lay the extensions on a flat surface to dry. You can use a blow dryer to dry your clip-ins if you’re in a hurry.

I recommend washing and conditioning them about once a month. You can do it more often if you wear your clip-ins a lot or regularly apply a lot of product. Store your hair extensions in a silk or satin bag when not in use. If you properly care for your clip-ins, they can last for between six months and up to a year or more.

Photography by Wardell Malloy with crowdMGMT

FIGURE 9-11: Installed clip-ins from KnappyHair Extensions.

Sew-in extensions

Throughout the years, a lot of people have turned to sew-ins for a protective style. You can use sew-ins to transition from relaxed to natural, add length and fullness, or try a completely different hair style without cutting your own hair. If you want a sew-in, I recommend that you visit a professional hairstylist for a consultation — because it’s definitely a big decision to make.

When clients come to me wanting a sew-in to protect their hair, I make sure to have a thorough consultation with them. During this consultation, I examine their hair and scalp, go over pricing, and — most importantly — let them know what to expect when it comes to how long they can keep the style in.

Your stylist can install sew-in extensions (also called weaves) by braiding your natural hair into small (but not too small) cornrows in a particular pattern. Your stylist uses nylon thread on a needle to sew down tracks of wefted hair onto the braids. Your stylist can leave out your hairline, or center or side part to make it look more natural. Or you can get a full sew-in, which is when the base of your hair is fully braided and none of it is left out to blend with the extensions.

Even though sew-in extensions are expensive and can take between four to six hours to install, don’t wear them beyond four weeks. Yes, I said what I said — only four weeks. I know, after four weeks, it still looks good, and you want to keep it in long as possible. But while your hair grows, the weight of the extensions can start to pull on your hair strands, potentially causing breakage or traction alopecia — particularly around your hairline.

The biggest mistake I see with sew-in extensions involves making the braids too small and way too tight. Some people think that the tighter and smaller the braid, the longer it lasts. The fact is, your hair grows at the speed it grows, no matter how tight you make your braids. Too tight braids cause breakage and, in some situations, traction alopecia, which can lead to permanent hair loss. No one wants that!

If you decide to get sew-in extensions or any other protective style that requires braiding and adding extensions to your hair, have a reputable stylist, who’s just as invested in the health of your hair as you are, install it. During the service, let them know if you’re experiencing any pain or excessive tension from the braids. You also want to ask your stylist questions about upkeep throughout the four weeks. The more knowledge you have, the better your results. And finally, it can cost quite a coin to properly achieve the best benefits of a protective style like sew-ins, so map out your budget accordingly.

Wigs

Wigs are by far the most sought-after accessory. But sis, just because everybody and their mama is rocking a wig doesn’t mean you should just pop into your local beauty supply store and slop any ol’ wig on your head. You can’t rush decisions like this. By taking the time to choose wigs that look natural, you can give yourself the perfect fashion statement or temporary hairstyle option.

You have two types of wigs to choose from: human hair wigs and synthetic hair wigs. Of course, the most natural-looking wigs are made with human hair because that hair lays, falls, and swings the same way the hair coming out of your head does. But if you don’t want a natural-looking wig, that’s your business, and I’ll move on.

MY FAVORITE EXTENSIONS AND WIGS

Throughout my career, I have done thousands of sew-ins. As a stylist, I can’t think of anything better than completing an install that looks natural, seamless, and literally like it’s growing from your scalp. I love seeing my clients leave my chair with confidence, knowing that they won’t be clocked when they leave the salon. Outside of laying a flat foundation (which I tell you how to do in the section “Wig installation, maintenance, and storage” later in this chapter), the hair that I choose is the most important part of the process. And using the best hair gives me flawless results. For my best hair offering, I always go with Knappy Hair Extensions.

I met Keandra Janelle (KJ), owner of Knappy Hair Extensions, during my years at the White House, and I’ve been obsessed with her hair ever since. KJ started her company in 2011 after she realized that she just couldn’t find hair extensions that blended perfectly with textured hair if she didn’t want to apply excessive heat to the hair.

KJ saw a problem that needed a solution. People of color were being forced to choose hair that didn’t match their own. She noticed that typically “Brazilian,” “Peruvian,” and “Malaysian” descriptions didn’t meet the needs of people who describe their locks as “coarse,” “kinky,” and “coily.”

KJ researched, studied, surveyed, and traveled across the world to try to solve that problem, creating high-quality hair extensions that can blend seamlessly with kinky, coily hair. She manufactures premium hair extensions that blend beautifully with hair types 2c through 4c so that her clients don’t have to waste any more time and money on hair that doesn’t match their texture.

What I love most about Knappy Hair Extensions is that KJ set a new standard in the beauty industry and created a solution for a community that has been overwhelmingly underserved. Now, her brand is trusted among people who have been looking for high-quality beauty brands that understand their hair.

Knappy Hair Extensions offers an array of beautiful options to help you find the right match for your textured hair (see the accompanying photo). So, if you want to try clip-ins, sew-ins, and all kinds of wigs in your kinky, coily hair, visit www.krshairgroup.com and discover hair that lets you feel like you.

Photography by Wardell Malloy with crowdMGMT

Wigs come in different forms:

• Full wigs: Cover your entire head. You tuck all of your natural hair into them, and you don’t have to blend any of your hair with the wig.
• Half wigs: Cover only part of your head. Half wigs allow you to frame your face with your natural hair. These wigs blend seamlessly with your natural hair while adding fullness and length to the crown and the back.
• Fall wigs: Right in between full wigs and half wigs, these wigs “fall” just behind the hairline and blend with your natural hair.

You can find readymade wigs in most beauty supply stores. These wigs are one-size-fits-all, and you can adjust them to fit your head with the adjustable elastic bands inside. They come in all hair types, textures, and lengths. And they also come in a range of prices, based on the features of the wig. A really good, basic synthetic wig can cost between $50 and $150, and human hair wigs can range between $75 and $500.

Although you can find a wide selection of gorgeous readymade wigs, to get the most natural-looking wig, invest in a custom-made piece. Custom wigs are handmade, typically by a hairstylist or wig maker who takes several measurements of your head form and builds a wig that’s tailored to your head and face shape. Then they sew or hand-tie (or both) the hair of your choice to a lightweight wig cap or laced-based foundation that fits your head perfectly. Because of the detailed labor required to create them, and depending on the materials used, custom-made wigs can cost anywhere from $1,300 to as high as $20,000 or more.

A little about lace front wigs

Since the release of Beyoncé’s debut album, Dangerously In Love, in 2003, lace front wigs have taken center stage. Yes, over the past 20 years or so, lace front wigs have evolved tremendously and have practically taken the spot of the coveted relaxer in the beauty industry. Wig makers craft lace front wigs to mimic your natural hairline. Hair strands are individually hand tied into a thin, almost invisible, lace material at the hairline and frontal crown area. Originally created for theater, film, and television to help build a character, the lace around the hairline of the wig imparts realism to the hairstyle while looking natural because it blends with your skin tone and gives the illusion that the hair is growing from the scalp. Today, lace front wigs are worn by almost everyone and, when installed properly, can look like your natural hair. You can style them the same way you’d style your natural hair — with various cuts, part sections, and even ponytails or braids.

Although wigs provide an excellent option for people experiencing excessive thinning and hair loss, naturals can also benefit from wigs because wigs protect hair from daily styling manipulation. However, if you wear your wig too much, it can cause friction and erode your hairline, which can lead to TA.

Wig caps

If you want to prevent thinning or breakage, wear your wigs in moderation and always place a wig cap on your head before placing the wig.

Wig caps are thin, soft caps that stretch and fit over your head. Your hair can tuck up and under the cap, which creates a smooth foundation by helping keep hair in place underneath the wig. The wig cap also acts as a layer of protection for your natural hair by reducing friction between the wig and your hair, while creating friction for the wig to help it grip the cap and stay in place.

Even if you have total hair loss, use a wig cap to prevent your wig from slipping off and as a barrier to protect your sensitive scalp from potential irritation from the wig’s interior material sitting directly on your head. Ultimately, wearing a wig cap gives you a more comfortable wig-wearing experience.

Most wig caps come as one-size-fits-all because they’re made of elastic material that can stretch to fit nearly any head, but you might find an elastic wig cap too tight after wearing one for a long period of time. If you find an elastic wig cap uncomfortable, just go without one.

Wig installation, maintenance, and storage

You don’t have to put in a lot of effort to install and wear full, half, and fall wigs.

FOUNDATION

First, create a good foundation for your wig to attach to and sit on. Which technique works best for attaching your wig depends on your hair length. If you have short hair, brush it down as flat as possible (use styling gel, if needed), then cover it with a wig cap. If you have longer hair, pull your hair back in a smooth, low ponytail or small-to-medium cornrows that go from the front to the back of your head. Then cover your hair with a wig cap. In the end, you want a foundation that’s as flat and smooth as possible. After you have your foundation ready, you can attach your wig.

INSTALLATION

Wigs have small combs or clips around the inside perimeter that grip to your hair or wig cap, securing the wig in place. You just have to place your wig how you want it, then push the combs or clips into your wig cap or hair.

Lace front wigs are a little more complicated to install because you need double-sided tape or wig glue (and a little skill) to attach them correctly. The double-sided tape or wig glue attaches the lace to your head nearly invisibly.

Of course, a professional can give you the best results for lace front wig services, but if you want to try installing one yourself, follow these steps:

1. Shampoo, condition, and dry your hair.

   Refer to Chapter 7 to select the best products to keep your covered hair healthy.

2. Create your foundation as described in the previous section called “Foundation.”

   Don’t put your wig cap on yet.

3. Wipe alcohol pads on your skin in front of your hairline where you want to place the lace front.

   If your skin doesn’t have any oils or products on it before you apply the wig glue, you get better adhesion.

4. Smooth your hairline back by using styling gel or pomade.

5. Place a wig cap over your head.

   The section “Wig caps,” earlier in this chapter, discusses the details about getting the right wig cap.

6. Spray a strong-hold hairspray on top of the wig cap right at the hairline to secure the cap in place. The spray will soak through to your scalp and will hold the cap in place.
7. Trim off the excess fabric from the forehead using sharp shears. Go slowly and work your way around.

8. Place the wig on your head, then gently adjust it to where you want the wig to sit.

   The lace should sit right in front of your natural hairline.

9. After you get the wig where it feels comfortable for you, cut the excess lace from around the ear and hairline with sharp shears. Go slowly and work your way around.
10. Use duckbill clips to hold the front of your wig away from your forehead and temple area. Fold your wig back a little and clip it straight on and back to hold it out of your face.

11. Place the wig glue right at the edge of the wig cap.

    Don’t put the wig glue directly on your natural hairline because the glue can rip out your edges when you remove the wig.

12. Blow dry the glue on a cool setting.

    Dry the glue until it’s a little tacky but not stringy.

13. After the wig glue dries, remove the duckbill clips and gently pull the wig.
14. Place the lace on top of the glue, making sure it’s exactly where you want it, then firmly press the lace into the glue.

15. Use alcohol wipes to remove any extra glue on your forehead.

    Avoid wiping the lace because it would loosen or remove the glue under the lace.

16. Tie a narrow satin or silk scarf around your hairline and allow the glue to dry completely.

    The lace will “melt” into your skin seamlessly, so you can’t tell it’s not your natural hairline.

17. Style your lace front wig as desired.

Installing lace front wigs provides a pretty decent challenge, so don’t feel discouraged if it doesn’t go well on your first try. Just keep practicing. Here are some of my favorite tips to help you successfully install:

• When using a wig cap, use a skin-tone concealer in any parted areas before you place the wig to help blend the lace to match your skin.
• For a more secure installation, use a needle with nylon thread to sew over the top of the wig and from ear to ear around the back of the wig.
• Always use an adhesive remover to take off the wig glue and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Use tweezers to pluck hair from the wig along the hairline and partings to mimic a more natural-looking appearance. You can do this before or after you place the wig.
• Try to place the lace as close to your hairline as possible without overlapping. Don’t make your forehead a “two-head” because you place your lace too far down.

NON-GLUE WIG OPTIONS

Not all lace front wigs require wig glue. As I mention in the section “Installation,” earlier in this chapter, you can use lace front wig tape, which is double-sided tape, instead of wig glue to secure your wigs. Tape has less of a chance of damaging your hairline. Just follow the same steps as gluing. First, wipe your head with alcohol to remove any oil or residue so the tape sticks to your skin well. Then, lay the tape along the hairline of the wig and place the wig where desired.

You can also use glueless wigs. These full lace wigs don’t require any type of adhesive to attach. You secure the wig by using bands, combs, or clips, and the lace lays flat on your forehead without the need for glue or tape. Glueless wigs let you avoid putting adhesives anywhere near your hairline, but get a custom-made wig so that the wig’s lace hairline can lay perfectly.

The process for maintaining and storing wigs is pretty easy and straightforward:

• Wigs: After you wear your wig for a while, it may start to look limp and doesn’t move like it did when it was fresh. It’s probably time to shampoo. Simply remove the wig and, using the same products you use on wash day (see Chapter 7), shampoo and condition (and detangle, if needed). Then rinse and towel dry your wig thoroughly. Place your wig on a Styrofoam or a cork wig head to dry. The wig head helps keep the wig’s shape and allows the hair to dry how it naturally falls.
• Lace front wigs: Use adhesive remover to safely remove the wig from your head, then follow the same steps in the preceding bullet. You may need to keep the adhesive remover handy while you shampoo the wig to help lift off any glue still on the lace. Use wig pins to hold the wigs in place on the wig head.

Use a blow dryer to dry your wig if you’re planning on wearing it immediately.

Coloring and Bleaching Natural and Curly Hair

In the past, coloring and bleaching textured hair wasn’t as popular as it is today. For years, people found maintaining colored (particularly bleached) relaxed or natural hair nearly impossible. Some people could achieve great results with reds, warm shades of blonde (see Figure 9-12), and (of course) darker colors such as black and browns for gray coverage. But most people didn’t dare try vivid colors, which required you to bleach your hair first before depositing the tone, which could have led to major or permanent damage.

Thank the hair gods — times have changed. The popularity of styling products for natural and curly hair means you can find many options designed for the textured hair community so that you can experiment with an array of permanent colors and bleaching. From jet black to icy platinum blondes, brands such as Olaplex have changed the color game by implementing innovative technology in their products that helps protect and nourish the hair during the coloring process. More brands than ever recognize this need and continue to develop permanent hair care products that are safe for textured hair. Now, people who have natural and curly hair who want to experiment with unique hues don’t have to settle for the limited selection of semi or demi colors, which are colors that simply sit on top of the hair strand and give it the illusion of the hair having another color.

Although you can apply semi and demi colors safely and easily at home, always leave permanent hair coloring and bleaching in the hands of the professionals. Permanent hair coloring is a process that uses ammonia to permanently change the color of your hair. During this process, your natural pigment is removed and replaced by artificial pigment. As you can imagine, if you don’t do it properly, you can cause a lot of damage. And truthfully, you have no way of knowing whether your hair can handle a coloring process, but a professional can tell. So again, please leave permanent hair coloring and bleaching in the hands of a professional!

© More/Adobe Stock

FIGURE 9-12: If you want safe and effective hair color, visit a professional.

For more information about caring for your color-treated hair, flip back to Chapter 6.

Getting Your Hair Cut

You may want a haircut for all different reasons. You may want a new look, to try a new trend, or to get fresh, low-maintenance look as shown in Figure 9-13.

Over the years, stylists have had a huge debate about whether to cut curly hair in its natural state or after you blow it out straight. Leave that debate to professional hairstylists. For me, I do a mixture of both techniques. I like to cut and create the length and most of the shape when the hair is blown out, then define the shape after I diffuse the curls.

However your stylist prefers to cut, stick with the pros: Don’t go botching up your hair by trying to cut it yourself. As hairstylists, we spend years perfecting our craft to give you a beautiful cut that shapes your face perfectly and adds to the illustration of your personal story. So, when you want to try a shorter haircut or you need your next trim, treat yourself and let a stylist do what we love to do. If you want information on trimming, refer back to Chapter 6.

© mimagephotos/Adobe Stock

FIGURE 9-13: A stylist can give you a cut that is low maintenance.

Blowing Out Your Hair

In my opinion, one of the best things about natural curly hair is its versatility. I love that you can go from a big, frizzy afro to bone straight, and everything in between. Blowing out your hair is probably one of the most dramatic changes you can make to your curls in under an hour. With the right techniques and tools, you can do it safely at home. Although blow drying natural hair many times gets a bad rap in the natural-hair community, if you do it properly, you can reduce tangles, stretch out stubborn kinks, and make your hair appear longer.

If you want to straighten your hair with a blow dryer, you need

• Heat protectant and/or blow-dry smoothing balm products
• Rat tail comb or wide-tooth comb to part your sections
• Duckbill or butterfly clips to hold the wet hair away from the drying hair
• Powerful blow dryer that has multiple heat settings
• Blow-dry brush like a Denman or a paddle brush or just use the comb attachment on your blow dryer

DOING BLOWOUTS WITH LESS TENSION

Most natural textures have a lot of shrinkage, and with all the bends and curls, your hair can draw up tight to your scalp. Adding an additional step to your blow drying allows you to pull the hair straight while it dries so that you can apply less tension with the blow-dry brush. This reduced tension, in turn, preserves your curls and reduces damage caused by the blow-drying process. You can use this technique with a traditional blow dryer by gently pulling the section straight with one hand while the other hand holds the blow-dryer. Move the blow dryer up and down about 2 to 3 inches away from the section until the hair is about 75 percent dry. Then, pull the hair completely straight with the blow-dry brush while you finish drying your hair with the blow dryer.

To straighten your hair at home, follow these steps:

1. Shampoo and condition your hair.

2. Towel dry your hair.

   Don’t overdo it. Leave your hair pretty damp.

3. Add a heat protectant or smoothing balm. Either spray it or apply a small amount to your hands and distribute evenly by raking your fingers through your hair.

4. Section your hair.

   You can either separate your hair into four to six sections, drying each section one at a time, or you can start at the nape of your neck and dry small horizontal sections.

5. Use the blow-dry brush to grip a section of your hair. Place the hairdryer nozzle on top of your hair.
6. Gently pull your brush and dryer straight down through your hair.

7. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for each section of hair.

   Work your way upwards, drying each section until you dry all the hair on your head.

8. Style your straightened hair as desired (see Figure 9-14).

© nappy/Pexels

FIGURE 9-14: Use a blow-dryer to straighten your curls for even more styling versality.

HOW TO FIND A PROFESSIONAL HAIRSTYLIST

If you scroll through social media, you don’t find a shortage of stylists who post amazing images of hair extension and wig work that they’ve done. In fact, #lacefrontal, #lacefrontwigs, and #lacefrontinstall are all popular hashtags that can point you in the right direction. Outside of recommendations from a friend, if you want to find a great stylist, social media gives you one of the best places to see someone’s work. Many stylists offer a portfolio of images that showcase their craft through various social media platforms. After you do your due diligence, go ahead and slip into those DMs and book a consultation to see if you and the stylist make a good fit.

A consultation gives you not only a chance to see a stylist’s work in person, but also to gauge their salon environment and professionalism, as well as ask as many questions as you want. A perfect fit can answer all your questions effortlessly. If you’re not feeling the vibe, scratch them off your list and move on to the next one. For more info on finding a stylist, go back to Chapter 6.

One of the most innovative tools to add to your collection is the RevAir reverse hair dryer. Ever since RevAir hit the market in 2018, I’ve been continuously amazed at the results I get when I use this dryer. It’s revolutionary, and you can’t find anything else on the market like it. RevAir gives you the power and flexibility to stretch and blow-out your hair in a healthy way, without high heat and with minimal tension, in just a fraction of the time that traditional drying methods need. The reverse-air technology dries, stretches, and straightens hair three times faster than a traditional blow-dryer. I believe that RevAir provides a healthier drying choice than the more traditional methods, giving naturally curly, wavy, coily, and kinky hair textures mind-blowing results. The aerodynamically designed wand can easily dry any type of hair, including coarse hair, braids, locs, and extensions, leaving the hair smooth and ready to style, or prepped for a protective style. See Chapter 8 for more information.

In a highly filtered world, never trust what you see on social media. Always do a consult before styling, no matter how great the photos look.