Chapter 13

Ten Natural and Curly Hair Do’s and Don’ts

IN THIS CHAPTER

Bullet Caring for your scalp, hair, and whole person

Bullet Avoiding hair care procrastination

Bullet Keeping manipulation low

Love is in the hair, and no matter what you’ve read or heard in the past, attaining healthy natural and curly hair doesn’t have to be difficult. Although you don’t have to follow any rules on your natural hair journey, I can give you a few do’s and don’ts that you can implement (or avoid) in your hair care regimen to help you achieve healthy hair.

In this chapter, I set you up with ten essential do’s and don’ts for a successful healthy hair journey. If you read nothing else in this book, this chapter can help you start new habits that are easy enough to do, but are foundational enough to make big changes for your hair.

Do: Take Care of Your Scalp

A healthy scalp is the key to maintaining optimal hair health. Make sure your scalp stays clean and free of buildup by using these tips:

  • Give yourself a daily scalp massage to help enhance blood circulation and stimulate hair growth. Hair growth starts at the roots, so you must create a healthy foundation.
  • You can apply tea tree oil to your scalp. I wouldn’t do it every day, but twice a week. (You can apply the oil while massaging your scalp, getting two things accomplished at the same time!) Take care to avoid scratching or pricking your head. If the tea tree oil gets in a scratch, it may cause irritation.
  • Rinse your hair and scalp by using apple cider vinegar before shampooing and conditioning.
  • Use a clarifying shampoo when you need to remove buildup. Follow up with your favorite moisturizing shampoo to normalize the hair and scalp pH.

For more how-tos and tips on caring for your scalp, flip back to Chapter 4.

Don’t: Skip or Rush Detangling

Natural and curly hair definitely needs regular detangling. I know it can be tempting to skip it, but never do. Although skipping detangling might feel easier and like it’s saving you time, it really causes you problems and costs way more time when you have to deal with the consequences later.

If you leave your hair tangled, it can mat and ultimately break, so just bite the bullet and embrace the detangling. That means also taking your time when you do it. Rushing the detangling process can create abrasions on your hair shaft.

Set aside enough time on wash day to ensure you can devote the time and attention this task needs. Be sure to detangle in small sections, starting at the ends and work your way up. Visit Chapter 4 for all the how-tos on detangling.

Tip Find a way to make detangling more pleasant. Maybe bump some music or use a product that has your favorite fragrance. Whatever it is, find something that creates a fun and positive association for your detangling sessions.

Do: Steam Treat Your Curls

In a steam treatment, moist heat helps open the cuticle layer of your hair and the pores on your scalp to allow better absorption of your conditioners and treatments. Steam treatments enhance product absorption, improve elasticity and curl definition, and improve scalp health.

For more on steam treatments, go back to Chapter 4.

Don’t: Neglect Your Split Ends

I know it sounds counterintuitive, but trimming your hair actually encourages hair growth. Split ends not only can cause damage to the rest of the hair shaft, they also make your hair look thin and make it more difficult to detangle.

Try not to obsess over your hair length. Instead, focus more on your hair’s health by getting regular trims every two months or so. This schedule keeps your hair at its absolute best. If you neglect scheduling a trim every six to eight weeks, you just can’t maintain truly healthy hair and see the benefits of all of the rest of your healthy hair regimen.

Tip If you can’t get a trim every two months, at least aim for the bare minimum of every six months.

Do: Protect Your Hair at Night

Good hair care is not just about what happens on wash day. Caring for your hair is a daily responsibility. Most people have at least a small morning hair routine so that they don’t look a fright when they step out of the house. But I’m here to say that your nighttime routine does as much for keeping your hair looking great as your morning routine does. Don’t skip it! Everyone’s hair is different, so you have to figure out what works for you; but always protect your hair at night.

Before you go to sleep, cover your head with a satin or silk bonnet or scarf, or you can sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase. These materials help keep the moisture in your hair. It also reduces friction on your hair, which helps you maintain your curls and prevent frizz.

Don’t: Heat Style Too Often

After working so hard to get your curls healthy, the last thing you want to do is ruin them with excessive heat. I know we all love a good blowout, and that’s totally fine, but stick to doing it only every now and then, and always use a heat protectant. The same goes for using curling irons, flat irons, hot combs, or other heat tools. Constant heat styling can cause damage to your curls and leave them looking limp and over-stretched.

Tip If you’re currently using a lot of heat on your hair, it might take some time to break the heat habit. If you can’t go cold turkey, that’s okay. Try the opposite approach. Start by picking one day a week when you won’t use heat. Then keep adding “no heat” days until you’re using heat to style your hair for special occasions only.

Do: Deep Condition Regularly

If you’re going to condition on wash day, why not deep condition? Deep conditioners can contain hydrating and strengthening agents such as protein, natural extracts, and oils that really enhance the overall health of your hair and assist with moisture retention. Deep conditioning can help prevent damage, improve elasticity, and enhance shine, among other things.

Here are a few tips for effective deep conditioning:

  • Before you apply your deep conditioner, squeeze or blot your hair with a towel to get rid of excess water. Removing excess water helps the conditioner further penetrate your hair strands.
  • Apply the conditioner from tip to root and leave it on 20 to 30 minutes or what the manufacturer’s label indicates.
  • Use cool water to rinse the conditioner out to help seal your hair’s cuticle (the outer layer).

Don’t: Over-Manipulate Your Curls

Yes, you need to manipulate your hair to care for and maintain it, but don’t over-manipulate it. Too much manipulation can cause your hair to break. When it comes to handling your hair, try not to touch it any more than necessary, and when you do have to touch it, be as gentle as possible.

Remember You can combat the hand-in-hair syndrome by wearing low-manipulation and protective styles from time to time. Buns, low or high ponytails, and pineapple puffs are all great low-manipulation options, but wearing them too tightly or too often can cause breakage around your entire hairline. You have to switch up your styling.

Do: Take Care of All of You

Your hair is part of a whole ecosystem. When one part of you is out of whack, your whole system can stop working like it should. So do whatever you can to take care of your mind and body. Beyond the tresses on your head, I recommend focusing on three main health and wellness goals to help your hair (and the rest of you) live its best life:

  • Exercise regularly. When you exercise, you increase your blood circulation. This increased circulation allows blood, nutrients, and oxygen to get to your scalp. This blood flow enhances your hair follicles, keeping them strong and healthy. Exercising also reduces stress, and we all know the effects stress has on our strands (looking at you, gray hair!).
  • Maintain a balanced diet. Eating right gives your follicles the nutrients needed to help your curls thrive. You are what you eat, and most of the time, when you can’t figure out why you can’t keep your hair healthy, remember that healthy hair starts from within. Eat foods such as fatty fish, eggs, leafy greens, berries, and nuts to see a big difference in your hair (and skin).
  • Hydrate properly. Water is the cornerstone of all life, including hair care. Your hair needs water more than anything else. Your shampoos, conditioners, oils, and other products help hydrate and moisturize your hair from the outside, but they’re not enough. Every day, aim to drink about a half ounce to one ounce of water per pound that you weigh.

Don’t: Skip or Delay Wash Day

The most basic thing you can do to care for your hair is to wash and condition it regularly. Resist the urge to delay or totally skip your wash-day routine. You need to clean your hair of buildup on a regular basis, especially if you use products regularly. But you don’t need to over-wash it; once every seven to ten days is perfect. Rotate using clarifying shampoo with moisturizing shampoos. Using clarifiers every time you shampoo can unknowingly remove needed natural moisture from the hair. Create good habits for yourself until they become muscle memory. Wash your hair on the same day — at the same time, if you can. Being consistent with your wash days takes the mental workout out of it. No need to waste energy wondering when you can fit it into your schedule or how you can get yourself out of it. Just plan for it without debate. It makes the process smoother and your hair and scalp will thank you for it.

Tip If wash days fill you with resistance, flip the script. Make the experience more fun by burning scented candles, playing music, eating good food afterwards — whatever brings you joy, add it to your wash-day routine.