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Crackle Foil

GARY LORD

If you want a decorative paint treatment that has a lot of Wow! factor to it, this is the one. This finish combines many of the most popular design elements found today in the decorative painting field. It has a combination of metallic sheen and texture with the use of metallic foils and a crackle texture. On top of that, it has a raised stencil motif accented by three-dimensional beading. This is a very unique look that can be altered to fit any décor by changing the stencil, the colors of the foil and the stain color.

MATERIALS

Level or laser level

Pencil and yardstick

Low-tack painter’s tape

Palette Deco white acrylic

Cake decorator with star tip

SetCoat: Metallic Bronze

Wunda Size

Metallic Foils in Bronze, Celadon Green and Antique Gold

Robert Rubber

AquaSize

AquaCrackle Clear

Chip brush

Whizz Roller

Stain & Seal: Antique Mahogany

FX Thinner

Flat-backed glass beads from any craft store

Yes! Paste

PRO TIPS

1. Making a Diamond-shaped Pattern
To lay out your diamond pattern, start your design on the main focal wall in your room. Measure the height of your wall to help you decide on the size of your diamond shapes. A standard 8-foot (2.44m) high wall is 96 inches (244cm). So one easy height for your diamonds would be 12 inches (30.5cm) because it divides evenly into 96 inches (244cm). If the height of one diamond pattern is 12 inches (30.5cm), you will have 8 full diamonds in a vertical row. To lay out the pattern, find the center of the width of the wall and use a level or a laser level to create a vertical plumb line down the center axis of the wall. Starting at the ceiling, measure down and place a dot at every 12 inches (30.5cm) on this line. You will have 7 dots when you’re finished. Now to the right and left of this main vertical line, measure over 12 inches (30.5cm) and repeat, placing 7 dots along those vertical lines. Continue in this same manner placing all the dots on the wall, then use a pencil to connect the dots on their diagonal access points to create the diamond shapes.

2. When to Basecoat the Surface
Mistakes will happen when you’re drawing up your lines on the wall due to mathematical errors. Don’t be concerned about that—basecoat the surface after all the lines are drawn up and the raised line beading is done.

STEP 1: Apply a strip of low-tack painter’s tape on the wall at the top to show you where your center point of the wall is. Also use a piece of tape at the bottom of the wall to show the center point there as well. Connect these dots with a plumb line or a laser level beam. Now use your template to draw the dots on the surface. Use a pencil, not a marker, when doing the dots or lines so the basecoat will cover them over later.

STEP 2: Fill a cake decorator with white Palette Deco acrylic and squeeze out a small amount in a push-and-pull technique to create raised lines. Leave blank spots where the lines intersect to create a flat area for your glass beads to sit flush on later. Allow these raised lines to dry completely, usually overnight.

STEP 3: Using SetCoat Metallic Bronze, apply a basecoat with a Whizz Roller covering everything, including the raised bead lines. Let dry. We put the basecoat on now because it hides any errors or extra pencil lines and dots, or any problems with the cake decorator. One coat is all you need.

STEP 4: Roll on two coats of Wunda Size over the entire surface and let it tack up, preferably overnight. Crumple, then un-crumple, a sheet of Antique Gold foil and place it shiny side up over the tacky surface. Use a Robert Rubber to rub over the gold foil, aiming for about 30 percent coverage (use your hand to press over the raised lines). Do the same with Celadon Green foil, filling in another 30 percent coverage.

STEP 5: Fill in the remaining 30 percent of coverage by transferring the Bronze foil using a Robert Rubber for the field, and your fingernails for the raised bead lines. After the Bronze foil is applied, roll on one coat of Aqua-Size in a random crosshatch motion covering 100 percent of the surface with a medium density of material. Allow it to tack up.

STEP 6: Now roll on a medium coat of Aqua Crackle Clear. Work in a small 8-inch (20cm) square section at a time, rolling in crosshatch motions, with light pressure. Do NOT go over sections you’ve already rolled on or the crackle medium will lift. Allow it to crack fully, at least 2-8 hours.

STEP 7: Mix a glaze of Stain & Seal Antique Mahogany cut with 10 percent FX Thinner. Test for depth of color and adjust as needed. Roll or brush on the glaze, then pat off with a rag or cheesecloth. The glaze sinks into the cracks of the crackle.

FINISH: To finish, apply glass beads in the color of your choice at the intersections of the raised lines, using a small dollop of Yes! Paste or a hot glue gun on the back flat side of the bead.