Steak Revolution

SERVES 4 TO 6

In this recipe, oregano is used to season the meat as part of what I call a deconstructed marinade. The taste is fresh and satisfying, and the recipe is certainly easy enough to pull off on a work day or as part of a bigger, more complicated weekend dinner plan. I eat sirloin this way a lot, but it always feels special to me.

1 TEASPOON DRIED OREGANO FLORETS OR COARSE DRIED OREGANO

1 WHOLE TOP SIRLOIN STEAK, AT LEAST 1 INCH THICK (ABOUT 2 POUNDS)

1 TEASPOON SALT, OR TO TASTE

UNSALTED BUTTER AND OLIVE OIL, FOR FRYING

1/2 LEMON, ZESTED (RESERVE LEMON FOR JUICING)

2 CLOVES GARLIC, HALVED OR QUARTERED, DEPENDING ON SIZE

4 SHALLOTS, QUARTERED OR CUT INTO EIGHTHS, DEPENDING ON SIZE

FRESHLY CRACKED BLACK PEPPER

PLACE A WIRE RACK on the middle rack of the oven and line the rack below it with enough foil to catch the steak drippings while allowing the steak to bask freely in your oven’s dry winds. There won’t be much dripping, but this makes cleanup easy and will ensure you don’t get a smoky oven the next time you cook at higher temperatures. Preheat your oven to 225°F.

PLACE OREGANO in the palm of your hand and briefly rub hands together to release the oil in the leaves. Gently pat evenly onto each side of the steak. Generously season each side with salt (about 1/2 teaspoon per side).

PLACE YOUR SEASONED SIRLOIN on the wire rack in your preheated oven, and cook for 30 minutes per pound, turning once halfway through to dry out both sides evenly, until it reaches an internal temperature of 115°F in the middle (that is, not in a seam or in fat, but in the meatiest part of the middle of the steak).

MEANWHILE, about 5 minutes before your steak is ready, place a heavy pan (cast iron or stainless steel are best, or use a non-stick pan with a heat-cookie bottom) over high heat and heat until very hot.

WHEN YOUR SIRLOIN IS READY, remove it from the oven and rub one side generously with butter. Carefully add a splash of olive oil to the hot pan and sear steak, buttered-side down first. Wait 30 seconds, and then flip, searing the other side of the steak, flipping again as needed until a nice, dark brown crust develops and the steak reaches an internal temperature approaching 125°F in the middle. Then, sprinkle the steak evenly with half of the lemon zest. Transfer the steak to a sheet of foil (keep the pan on the heat), wrap very loosely, and let rest.

REDUCE THE HEAT to medium, and add garlic and shallots to the reserved pan. Place zested lemon half cut-side down in the pan alongside garlic and shallots. Once lemon is lightly browned and feels soft enough to squeeze very easily, remove it from the pan and reserve it for later. Continue cooking the garlic and shallots until softened and slightly browned. (This should take about 4 minutes, total.)

SERVE YOUR SIRLOIN on a platter or right on your carving board, cut into 1/2-inch slices, cutting across the width. Scatter softened shallots and garlic overtop, and add a squeeze of the warmed lemon (to taste) and a grind of pepper. To finish, sprinkle with some of the remaining lemon zest.