Steak Revolution

SERVES 4 TO 6

I find such joy in cooking steak on the bone—and here we have a big steak with a big bone. You’ll find there are so many impressive aspects to this steak that it needs very little done to it. The art, along with just-right cooking, of course, is in how the steak is carved and presented. You’ll be rewarded by the look of sheer delight on your guests’ faces. If you want them to call the vice squad or change religions, have some Stilton cheese on the side for crumbling overtop.

1 BIG PORTERHOUSE STEAK (ABOUT 2 INCHES THICK)

1 TEASPOON SALT

UNSALTED BUTTER, SOFTENED

FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER

SEASON YOUR PORTERHOUSE steak with salt (about 1/2 teaspoon per side). Let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, preferably longer, and up to 2 hours. Using your hands, rub a little butter on just one side of the steak, lathering it evenly.

PREPARE YOUR CHARCOAL GRILL to one-third cooler than peak heat, or heat your gas grill to medium-high (preheated on High for 10 minutes, lid closed). Grill your steak butter-side down for about 5 minutes, until it releases easily from the grill’s surface. Turn it over and cook for another 5 minutes, flipping every few minutes as you see fit, until the steak develops a nice brown crust on both sides (you will see the fat and juices bubbling through the crust as it develops—always a good sign) and reaches an internal temperature of 120°F in the middle of the steak (the readings will vary in different parts of the steak). Steak adjacent to the bone will come off rare, while the middle and edges will be more cooked—this only adds wonderful variety, showing off all the best aspects of a porterhouse. Pay extra attention to the fat cap, turning the steak on its fatty edge for a spell to cook the fat a little more.

REMOVE STEAK from the heat and very loosely wrap it in foil. Let rest for a full 15 minutes, then tidily cut the steaks from the bone. Begin with the striploin (the larger side): stand the steak upright, with the cross of the T-bone resting flat on your carving board, and cut down, riding the length of the T-bone with your knife while holding the steak with your other hand. Repeat for the tenderloin on the other side of the bone.

USING A SHARP KNIFE, cut each steak into 3/4-inch slices. Then, either on a serving platter or right on your carving board, reassemble them so each piece is back in its spot on either side of the bone, with a bit of space left between each slice. Serve immediately with a few grinds of pepper and watch the steak vanish in the blink of an eye.