© 2018 by Rob Firing
MAKES ABOUT 5 1/2 CUPS
Among the sauces and condiments that can adorn a bite of steak, a really good mustard can turn that already knee-weakening mouthful into something positively swoony. One afternoon while my friend and frequent food collaborator Ivy Knight and I were eating our way through the lunch menu at the Drake Commissary in Toronto’s west end, I had an opportunity to sample chef Ben Bergero’s mustard, made with the fine beer from Henderson Brewery next door. I dabbed a little onto my forkful of brisket, and Ivy laughed out loud at my reaction, my eyes the size of dinner plates, my face slackened in bliss. The Drake Commissary was kind enough to give me their recipe. There is a 60-day aging process here, but trust me, it is all worth it. The mustard may be chef Ben Bergero’s, but the bragging rights will be at least half your own.
HENDERSON’S BEST MUSTARD
1 CUP YELLOW MUSTARD SEEDS
1 CUP BROWN MUSTARD SEEDS
2 CUPS ALE, PREFERABLY HENDERSON’S BEST (500 ML TALL-BOY CAN)
1/4 CUP KEEN’S MUSTARD POWDER
1/2 CUP FINELY DICED SPANISH ONION
5 TEASPOONS GRANULATED SUGAR
3 TABLESPOONS KOSHER SALT
3 TEASPOONS BLACK PEPPERCORNS, TOASTED AND FINELY GROUND (ABOUT 2 1/2 TSP GROUND)
9 TABLESPOONS PURE MAPLE SYRUP (PREFERABLY FROM PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY)
5 TEASPOONS APPLE CIDER VINEGAR (PREFERABLY RAW AND UNPASTEURIZED)
IN A BOWL, soak yellow and brown mustard seeds in beer overnight. The next day, add mustard powder, finely diced onions, sugar, salt, and ground pepper. Cover and set aside in a cool place (the fridge works well here) for at least 30 days.
USING A BLENDER, purée half of the mustard seed mixture until smooth. Return mustard seed purée to the remaining mixture and stir in maple syrup and cider vinegar. Cover and refrigerate for 30 more days.
TASTE AND ADJUST salt, syrup, and vinegar as it suits you. Serve with smoked or grilled meats.