© by Mike McColl, with styling by Mia Bachmaier
MAKES 4 TO 6 PANCAKES
The potato rösti, latke, and pancake are all variations on the same theme. The difference generally comes down to the amount of egg and flour in the mix. I’ve grown fond of the proportions here because they work so well every time. They are also easy to remember: 4 potatoes, 4 tablespoons flour, 2 eggs. The rest of the ingredients, though important, add flavour and texture. If you can remember the first three ingredients, you have the basics to be as creative as you like. A note on the frying fat: I much prefer animal fats to vegetable fats for cooking, especially with high-temperature cooking. This old-school way of frying tastes so much better, is better for you (because saturated fats are much more stable when heated), and, I think, performs better, especially as we are looking for colour and crisp textures in this recipe in particular.
4 LARGE POTATOES, COARSELY GRATED
1 MEDIUM ONION, COARSELY GRATED
4 TABLESPOONS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
2 LARGE EGGS, LIGHTLY BEATEN
1/2 TEASPOON SALT
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
DUCK FAT OR LARD, TALLOW, OR OTHER HIGH-QUALITY ANIMAL FAT (GRAPESEED OR CANOLA OIL IN A PINCH)
CRÈME FRAÎCHE OR SOUR CREAM, FOR SERVING
IN A MIXING BOWL, combine potatoes and onion. Using your hands, squeeze out the juice (do this over a fine-mesh sieve or wrap the mixture in a kitchen towel, roll up, and squeeze). Return mixture to bowl and let sit for 10 minutes, then wring it out again (the fry will turn out better if there is less water in the mixture).
TO THE POTATOES, add flour, eggs, salt, and a couple of grinds of pepper. Stir until well combined. Set aside.
HEAT about 1/4 inch of fat in a heavy frying pan (cast iron or stainless steel work well, or a non-stick pan with a heat-cookie bottom) over medium-high heat, until the fat begins to shimmer. Carefully place a ball of the potato mixture into the pan (about a heaping 1/4 cup), and then, using a spatula, flatten until about 1/2 inch thick. Cook pancakes in batches, being careful not to overcrowd the pan, for 4 to 5 minutes per side, until they are golden brown with a crispy crust. Transfer to a plate lined in paper towel and keep in a warm oven or just at room temperature until all the batter is used up. (You may have to add more fat to the pan.)
SERVE with a little crème fraîche.