FAST AND DELICIOUS REFRIED BEANS

SERVES 4

Making refried beans from dried beans is admirable, but I admit I use canned beans quite a lot, which of course is much faster. The tasty, murky liquid left over in from-scratch recipes (the “sopa”) is used to emulsify the smashed beans into a paste. In this recipe, I use beef, chicken, or vegetable stock, because I find the liquid left in canned beans to be gluey and sometimes very salty. Refried beans are quite versatile, and there have been weeks where I’ve used them easily as much as mashed potatoes. You may just fall in love with them. When I fry up high-quality bacon, I save the rendered fat specially to make this dish.

2 TABLESPOONS LARD, TALLOW, RENDERED BACON FAT, SCHMALTZ, OR OTHER FAT OF YOUR CHOICE

1 MEDIUM ONION, DICED

1 CAN (15 FL. OZ) PINTO, BLACK, OR RED KIDNEY BEANS, RINSED AND DRAINED

1 CUP BEEF, CHICKEN, OR VEGETABLE STOCK, PLUS MORE FOR THINNING, IF NEEDED

SALT, TO TASTE

QUESO FRESCO OR FETA, FOR CRUMBLING

IN A CAST-IRON, stainless-steel, or non-stick frying pan (with a heat-cookie bottom) over medium-high heat, heat fat. Fry diced onion until it becomes translucent and golden brown at the edges, 4 to 5 minutes.

ADD BEANS and cook for 2 minutes, stirring from time to time. Stir in 1 cup stock. Using a potato masher or wooden spoon, mash beans and stock into a chunky paste. Reduce the heat to medium-low and continue cooking until you like the consistency. If the paste becomes too thick, just stir in more stock to thin it out. Season with salt to taste.

SERVE refried beans alongside just about anything. It’s particularly good with a little queso fresco or feta crumbled on top.