I make a lot of preserves: for myself, to give as presents and to sell for charity. We have a mixed orchard and a lot of soft fruit, so it is a vital way to conserve any of the harvest that I cannot give away! During the winter months we enjoy the tastes of summer and autumn through preserves, which give something extra to our food. There are a few rules to follow. Homemade preserves are often made with vinegar, so are less susceptible to bacterial infections like botulism. But always use sterilized jars: wash, rinse, then put upside down in an oven heated to 110°C/225°F/Gas ½ for 30 minutes, and fill and seal while still hot. If the jar lids are old, line them with parchment paper. Choose good-quality, unblemished fruit and vegetables.
APPLE AND HERB JELLY
When the apple trees in our orchard are groaning under the weight of their fruits, I make jars of apple and herb jelly using a variety of herbs, including mint, sage, tarragon, marjoram, lavender, rosemary, lemon thyme, scented geraniums, rose petals and also a few jars spiced with chilli, peppercorns and bay. The apples can be windfalls, crab apples, cookers or sharp eating apples. The mint jelly is good with lamb and I often glaze the meat with it before cooking. The sage jelly is used in the same way with pork, while chilli jelly is particularly useful as a glaze.
Preparation: 50 mins, plus overnight draining
Cooking: 45 mins
Makes about 900g/2lb
2kg/4lb 8oz apples, washed, peeled, cored and quartered
juice of 2 lemons
granulated sugar (see method)
2 handfuls of your chosen herb, plus extra for identifying the jelly in the jar
Cook the apples in the lemon juice and 1.2litres/40fl oz/ 5 cups of water for 30 minutes until reduced to a pulp. Put the pulp into a jelly bag and leave to drip overnight.
Measure the juice into a pan and add 450g/1lb sugar and 2 handfuls of the herb for each 500ml/17fl oz/generous 2 cups juice. Stir over a gentle heat until the sugar dissolves, then boil hard for about 10 minutes. Skim, sieve to remove the cooked herbs, then pour into the sterilized jars (see above) and add a sprig of herb or 1 tbsp chopped herb to each jar.
POACHED PLUM AND LEMON VERBENA SAUCE
This is a marvellous lemony plum sauce, which can be used with puddings or made into a savoury, fruit sauce for dishes like pork or roast duck.
Preparation: 15 mins
Cooking: 30 mins
Makes about 500g/1lb 2oz
400g/14oz plums, pitted
1 large sprig of lemon verbena (about 40 leaves) about 175g/6oz/1 cup sugar, to taste (you shouldn’t need to add more than this)
Put the plums in a saucepan with a tiny splash of water – just enough to stop them sticking. Add the lemon verbena and sugar and simmer the plums until they are breaking down. This might take up to about 30 minutes, depending on how ripe they are. Sieve to leave a smooth sauce and transfer to a sterilized jar whilst still warm.
SPICED FRUIT WITH HERBS
I spice plums, damsons, crab apples, cherries, pears and even apple, using hard herbs like bay, rosemary, sage, savory or thyme. Good with pâtés, hams and cheeses.
Preparation: 25 mins
Cooking: 20 mins
Makes about 2kg/5lb
400g/14oz/2 cups sugar
350ml/12fl oz/1½ cups white wine vinegar
5cm/2in cinnamon stick, broken into pieces
8 peppercorns
2.5cm/1in piece of root ginger, sliced
3 red dried chillies
4 bay leaves
1 large sprig of sage, savory, rosemary or thyme
1.3kg/3lb prepared fruit
Simmer all the ingredients apart from the fruit in a heavy pan for about 10 minutes, so the sugar dissolves and the flavours develop. Then put in the fruit and cook until tender. This may take only 2 minutes for small fruits like crab apples or up to 10 minutes for larger fruit like pears. Pack into warm sterilized jars (see opposite) and store for up to a year. The spicy taste increases over time.
COURGETTE, ROSEMARY, GINGER AND CARDAMOM PRESERVE
This is excellent served with cheese, pâté, cold meats and grilled/broiled vegetables.
Preparation: 22 mins, plus overnight macerating
Cooking: 20 mins
Makes about 2kg/5lb
1.8kg/4lb courgettes/zucchini or marrow
900g/2lb/4½ cups sugar
zest and juice of 2 lemons
4 pieces of preserved ginger, chopped
1 handful of young rosemary leaves, finely chopped
12 green cardamom pods
Remove the seeds from the courgettes/zucchini, then chop the flesh into small cubes and simmer in boiling water for about 3 minutes. Drain well. Mix in the sugar and leave overnight. Then put in a pan with the remaining ingredients and simmer gently until the sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil, then simmer gently for 10–15 minutes until the vegetable is translucent and the syrup thick. Store in sterilized jars (see opposite).
[ WHY NOT TRY... ]
+ Making tarts with Apple and Herb Jelly spread over sliced fruit on a puff pastry base (see page 129)
+ Adding Spiced Fruit with Herbs to a cheeseboard or charcuterie platter, or using it as a topping for a whole melting, baked Camembert
+ Using Courgette and Rosemary Preserve in place of chutney in a sandwich or ploughman’s lunch
+ Spreading Apple and Herb Jelly on a slice of buttered toast
