Old maps and new

There are spaces

where infringements are possible.

There are notices that say:

Trespassers will be welcome.

 

Pity leaks through the roof

of the Labour Exchange.

In the Leader’s pocket,

wrapped in the plans for the great offensive,

are sweets for the children

and a crumpled letter.

 

There are spaces still to be filled

before the map is completed –

though these days it’s only

in the explored territories

that men write, sadly,

Here live monsters.

High Street, Edinburgh

Here’s where to make a winter fire of stories

And burn dead heroes to keep your shinbones warm,

Bracing the door against the jackboot storm

With an old king or two, stuffing the glories

Of rancid martyrs with their flesh on fire

Into the broken pane that looks beyond Fife

Where Alexander died and a vain desire,

Hatched in Macbeth, sat whittling at his life.

 

Across this gulf where skeins of duck once clattered

Round the black Rock and now a tall ghost wails

Over a shuddering train, how many tales

Have come from the hungry North of armies shattered,

An ill cause won, a useless battle lost,

A head rolled like an apple on the ground;

And Spanish warships staggering west and tossed

On frothing skerries; and a king come to be crowned.

 

Look out into this brown November night

That smells of herrings from the Forth and frost;

The voices humming in the air have crossed

More than the Grampians; East and West unite,

In dragonish swirlings over the city park,

Their tales of deaths and treacheries, and where

A tall dissolving ghost shrieks in the dark

Old history greets you with a Bedlam stare.

 

He talks more tongues than English now. He fetches

The unimagined corners of the world

To ride this smoky sky, and in the curled

Autumnal fog his phantoms move. He stretches

His frozen arm across three continents

To blur this window. Look out from it. Look out

From your November. Tombs and monuments

Pile in the air and invisible armies shout.

Celtic cross

The implicated generations made

This symbol of their lives, a stone made light

By what is carved on it.

The plaiting masks,

But not with involutions of a shade,

What a stone says and what a stone cross asks.

 

Something that is not mirrored by nor trapped

In webs of water or bag-nets of cloud;

The tangled mesh of weed

lets it go by.

Only men’s minds could ever have unmapped

Into abstraction such a territory.

 

No green bay going yellow over sand

Is written on by winds to tell a tale

Of death-dishevelled gull

or heron, stiff

As a cruel clerk with gaunt writs in his hand

– Or even of light, that makes its depths a cliff.

 

Singing responses order otherwise.

The tangled generations ravelled out

In links of song whose sweet

strong choruses

Are these stone involutions to the eyes

Given to the ear in abstract vocables.

 

The stone remains, and the cross, to let us know

Their unjust, hard demands, as symbols do.

But on them twine and grow

beneath the dove

Serpents of wisdom whose cool statements show

Such understanding that it seems like love.

Crossing the Border

I sit with my back to the engine, watching

the landscape pouring away out of my eyes.

I think I know where I’m going and have

some choice in the matter.

 

I think, too, that this was a country

of bog-trotters, moss-troopers,

fired ricks and roof-trees in the black night – glinting

on tossed horns and red blades.

I think of lives

bubbling into the harsh grass.

 

What difference now?

I sit with my back to the future, watching

time pouring away into the past. I sit, being helplessly

lugged backwards

through the Debatable Lands of history, listening

to the execrations, the scattered cries, the

falling of roof-trees

in the lamentable dark.

Two thieves

At the Place for Pulling up Boats

(one word in Gaelic) the tide is full.

It seeps over the grass, stealthy as a robber.

Which it is.

 

– For old Flora tells me

that fifty yards stretch of gravel, now under water,

was, in her granny’s time, a smooth green sward

where the Duke of Sutherland

turned his coach and four.

 

What an image of richness, a tiny pageantry

in this small dying place

whose every house is now lived in

by the sad widow of a fine strong man.

 

There were fine strong men in the Duke’s time.

He drove them to the shore, he drove them

to Canada. He gave no friendly thought to them

as he turned his coach and four

on the sweet green sward

by the Place for Pulling up Boats

where no boats are.

A man in Assynt

Glaciers, grinding West, gouged out

these valleys, rasping the brown sandstone,

and left, on the hard rock below – the

ruffled foreland –

this frieze of mountains, filed

on the blue air – Stac Polly,

Cul Beag, Cul Mor, Suilven,

Canisp – a frieze and

a litany.

 

Who owns this landscape?

Has owning anything to do with love?

For it and I have a love-affair, so nearly human

we even have quarrels. –

When I intrude too confidently

it rebuffs me with a wind like a hand

or puts in my way

a quaking bog or a loch

where no loch should be. Or I turn stonily

away, refusing to notice

the rouged rocks, the mascara

under a dripping ledge, even

the tossed, the stony limbs waiting.

 

I can’t pretend

it gets sick for me in my absence,

though I get

sick for it. Yet I love it

with special gratitude, since

it sends me no letters, is never

jealous and, expecting nothing

from me, gets nothing but

cigarette packets and footprints.

 

Who owns this landscape? –

The millionaire who bought it or

the poacher staggering downhill in the early morning

with a deer on his back?

 

Who possesses this landscape? –

The man who bought it or

I who am possessed by it?

 

False questions, for

this landscape is

masterless

and intractable in any terms

that are human.

It is docile only to the weather

and its indefatigable lieutenants –

wind, water and frost.

The wind whets the high ridges

and stunts silver birches and alders.

Rain falling down meets

springs gushing up –

they gather and carry down to the Minch

tons of sour soil, making bald

the bony scalp of Cul Mor. And frost

thrusts his hand in cracks and, clenching his fist,

bursts open the sandstone plates,

the armour of Suilven;

he bleeds stories down chutes and screes,

smelling of gunpowder.

 

Or has it come to this,

that this dying landscape belongs

to the dead, the crofters and fighters

and fishermen whose larochs

sink into the bracken

by Loch Assynt and Loch Crocach? –

to men trampled under the hoofs of sheep

and driven by deer to

the ends of the earth – to men whose loyalty

was so great it accepted their own betrayal

by their own chiefs and whose descendants now

are kept in their place

by English businessmen and the indifference

of a remote and ignorant government.

 

Where have they gone, the people

who lived between here and

Quinag, that tall

huddle of anvils that puffs out

two ravens into the blue and

looks down on the lochs of Stoer

where trout idle among reeds and

waterlilies – take one of them home

and smell, in a flower

the sepulchral smell of water.

 

Beyond Fewin lies the Veyatie Burn – fine

crossing place for deer, they trot over

with frills of water flouncing

at their knees. That water rests in Fewin

beneath the sandstone hulk

of Suilven, not knowing what’s to come –

the clattering horserush down

the Kirkaig gorge, the sixty-foot

Falls ... There are twenty-one pools

on the Kirkaig ... Since

before empires were possible

till now, when so many have died

in their own dust,

the Kirkaig Falls have been walking backwards –

twenty-one paces up their own stream.

Salmon lie

in each of the huge footprints.

You can try to catch them –

at a price.

The man whose generations of ancestors

fished this, their own river,

can catch them still –

at a price ...

 

The salmon come from the sea. I watch

its waves thumping down their glossy arches in

a soup of sand, folding over from one

end of the bay to the other.

Sandpipers, ringed plover, turnstones

play tig with these waves that

pay no heed but laboriously get on with

playing their million-finger exercises on

the keyboard of the sand.

 

The salmon come from the sea. Men

go out on it. The Valhalla, the Golden Emblem

come in, smoking with gulls,

from the fishing grounds of the Minch

to lie, docile, by the Culag pier.

Beneath it the joppling water

shuffles its blues and greens till they almost

waver the burly baulks away.

From the tall bows ropes reach ashore

in languid arcs, till, through rings, round

bollards, they clot and

twist themselves in savage knots.

The boats lie still with a cargo

of fish and voyages.

 

Hard labour can relax.

The salty smell outside, which is made up

of brine and seaweed

and fish, reaches the pub door but

is refused admittance. Here,

men in huge jerseys drink small drinks.

The thick talk

of fishing and sheep is livened

by a witty crackle of gossip

and the bitter last tale

of local politics. At ten o’clock, the barman

will stop whistling a strathspey to shout

‘Time, please!’ and they

will noisily trail out, injecting a guff of alcohol

into the salty smell made up

of brine and seaweed

and fish, which stretches from the pub door

all the way to America.

 

Whom does the sea belong to?

Fat governments? Guillemots? Or men

who steal from it what they can

to support their dying acres?

 

Fish from the sea, for Glasgow, London,

Edinburgh. But the land, too, sells

itself; and from these places

come people tired of a new civilisation

to taste what’s left

of an old one. They outnumber

the locals – a thing

too easy to do ... In Lochinver,

Achmelvich, Clashnessie, Clachtoll

they exchange the tyranny of the clock

for the natural rhythm of day and

night and day and night and for

the natural decorum that binds together

the fishing grounds, crofting lands

and the rough sheepruns that hoist themselves

towards the hills. They meet the people

and are not rejected. In the sweating night

London and Edinburgh fall away

under the bouncing rhythms of Strip the Willow

and the Gay Gordons, and when the lights go out

and all the goodnights are spoken, they can hear

a drunk melodeon go without staggering

along the dark road.

 

But the night’s not over. A twinkle of light

in Strathan, Brackloch, Inveruplan, shows

where the tales are going round, tall

as the mast of the Valhalla, and songs are sung

by keeper, shepherd and fisherman,

each tilting his Rembrandt face in the light

and banging the chorus round, till, with a shout

he takes up his dram and drinks it down.

The Gauger of Dalmore lives again

in verses. An old song

makes history alive again,

as a rickle of stones peoples the dark theatre

of the mind with a shouting crowd and,

in the middle, MacLeod of Assynt and

his greater prisoner – Montrose.

 

An old song. A rickle of stones. A

name on a map.

I read on a map a name whose Gaelic means

the Battlefield of the Big Men.

I think of yelling hosts, banners,

counterattacks, deployments. When I get there,

it’s ten acres, ten small acres

of boggy ground.

I feel

I am looking through the same wrong end

of the same telescope

through which I look back through time

and see

Christ, Socrates, Dante – all the Big Men

picked out, on their few acres,

clear and tiny in

the misty landscape of history.

 

Up from that mist crowds

the present. This day has lain long,

has dozed late, till

the church bell jerks and, wagging madly

in its salty tower, sends its voice

clanking through the sabbath drowse.

And dark minds in black clothes gather like

bees to the hive, to share

the bitter honey of the Word, to submit

to the hard judgment of a God my childhood God

would have a difficulty

in recognising.

Ten yards from the sea’s surge

they sing to Him beautiful praises

that surge like the sea,

in a bare stone box built

for the worship of the Creator

of all colours and between-colours, and of

all shapes, and of the holiness

of identity and of the purifying light-stream

of reason. The sound of that praise

escapes from the stone box

and takes its place in the ordinary communion

of all sounds, that are

Being expressing itself – as it does in its continuous,

its never-ending creation of leaves,

birds, waves, stone boxes – and beliefs,

the true and the false.

 

These shapes; these incarnations, have their own determined

identities, their own dark holiness, their

high absurdities. See how they make

a breadth and assemblage of animals,

a perpendicularity of creatures, from where,

three thousand feet up, two ravens go by

in their seedy, nonchalant way, down to

the burn-mouth where baby mussels

drink fresh water through their beards –

or down, down still, to where the masked conger eel

goes like a gangster through

the weedy slums at the sea’s foot.

 

Greenshank, adder, wildcat, guillemot, seatrout,

fox and falcon – the list winds through

all the crooks and crannies of this landscape, all

the subtleties and shifts of its waters and

the prevarications of its air –

while roofs fall in, walls crumble, gables

die last of all, and man becomes,

in this most beautiful corner of the land,

one of the rare animals.

 

Up there, the scraping light

whittles the cloud edges till, like thin bone,

they’re bright with their own opaque selves. Down here,

a skinny rosebush is an eccentric jug

of air. They make me,

somewhere between them,

a visiting eye,

an unrequited passion,

watching the tide glittering backward and making

its huge withdrawal from beaches

and kilted rocks. And the mind

behind the eye, within the passion,

remembers with certainty that the tide will return

and thinks, with hope, that that other ebb,

that sad withdrawal of people, may, too,

reverse itself and flood

the bays and the sheltered glens

with new generations replenishing the land

with its richest of riches and coming, at last,

into their own again.

Old Edinburgh

Down the Canongate

down the Cowgate

go vermilion dreams

snake’s tongues of bannerets

trumpets with words from their mouths

saying Praise me, praise me.

 

Up the Cowgate

up the Canongate

lice on the march

tar on the amputated stump

Hell speaking with the tongue of Heaven

a woman tied to the tail of a cart.

 

And history leans by a dark entry

with words from his mouth

that say Pity me, pity me

but never forgive.

Battlefield near Inverness

Only dead bodies lie here,

for dreams are not to be buried.

You can’t keep down with a stone

the stink of loyalty and honour

that still poison the air

with all the corpses they’ve made

since the air rotted at Culloden.

Rewards and furies

In a ship hardly bigger than this room,

with a mind narrower than this pen,

with a library of one book

and that book with one word in it,

Columbus sailed and sailed and arrived.

 

The poor soul didn’t know where.

Still, he succeeded:

Indians were massacred, railways

opened up wheatfields, jails and asylums,

and skyscrapers walked around

with atom bombs slung at their hips.

 

I hope Columbus didn’t believe

in his own ghost. How could it rest

through these hundreds of years?

How could it stare into the future

at his monstrous descendants

ignorantly sailing, ignorantly arriving?

Queen of Scots

Mary was depressed.

She hadn’t combed her red hair yet.

She hadn’t touched her frightful Scottish breakfast.

Her lady-in-waiting, another Mary,

had told Rizzio Her Majesty wasn’t at home,

a lie so obvious it was another way

of telling the truth.

 

Mary was depressed.

She wanted real life and here she was

acting in a real play, with real blood in it.

 

And she thought of the years to come

and of the frightful plays that would be written

about the play she was in.

 

She said something in French

and with her royal foot she kicked

the spaniel that was gazing at her

with exophthalmic adoration.

At the Loch of the Pass of the Swans

I dangle my feet in the cool loch water.

A thousand journeys, a century of miles

crinkle to the crimson flower beside me.

 

Where is the mist that wrapped itself round

the threshing machine last autumn?

Where’s the blackface lamb I pulled from a peat bog?

 

Where are the places my father knew

and the storm waves roaring in the caves of Scarp,

frightening my little girl mother?

 

Escape from my history – to the campfires

of Huns and Goths, to the monks picking

hazel nuts and berries on sunny Iona.

 

I play with time and distance,

a game less cruel than the one

they play with me, the one they will win.

 

Let them. For this moment they’ve shrunk

to the crimson flower beside me

and two feet, corpse-white, in the smiling water.

Characteristics

My American friends,

who claim Scottish ancestry,

have been touring Scotland.

In ten days they visited

eleven castles. I smiled –

How American.

They said they preferred

the ruined ones. I smiled again.

How Scottish.