In Mexico and Japan they have always used acidic marinades to cut through the richness of fish. On my last trip to America I saw some stunning ceviches — there are various interpretations of this but it basically means using the acidic properties of citrus fruit or vinegar to partly cook meat or fish. This can be done at the last minute, which gives you a very light cure like when you put lemon juice on smoked salmon, making it go slightly opaque. I’ve even seen long-cured duck done for a few days in citrus juice, which had the effect of slow-roasting it. Amazing stuff. But what I find really exciting is the way that Thai people use essence of ginger and lime and fantastic things like that to cure any fish. Your inspiration should come from getting hold of really good fresh fish. Don’t use any old rubbish — ask your fishmonger to tell you when the fish was caught and when it came into the shop. See page 14 for some helpful hints and tips on buying fresh fish.