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Say “Cheese,” Spartacus

Taking a photo with one of those ersatz gladiators in front of the Colosseum will win some smiles—but maybe some frowns, too. Many of these costumed gladiators pounce on tourists who simply aim a camera at them and then proceed to shake them down for a “photo fee.” Others have a craftier approach: before you know it, one may envelop your eight-year-old in his red cape and say “Formaggio.” Indeed, this may turn out to be the greatest souvenir back home in fourth-grade class, so if interested, step right up, shake hands, and exchange some euros. But pick your Spartacus very carefully: some sloppy guys wear a helmet and cloak but have sweatsuits or sneakers on. Rumor has it that Rome’s government is going to crack down on these “gladiators,” but so far it’s caveat emptor.

Life is a Piazza

For Italians young and old, la piazza serves as a punto d’incontro—a meeting place—for dinner plans, drinks, people-watching, catching up with friends, and, as Romans would say, exchanging due chiacchiere (two words). One of the most popular piazzas is Campo de’ Fiori, right in the heart of the beautiful historic center. By day, the piazza is famous for its fresh food and flower market—no rival to Piazza Navona for picturesqueness, the market is nevertheless a favorite photo-op, due to the ombrelloni (canvas umbrella) food stands. By night, the piazza turns into a popular hangout for Romans and foreigners lured by its pubs and street cafés, so much so that it has been dubbed “the American college campus of Rome.” As dinner approaches, the big question is: Are you “in” or “out” (inside or outside table)? No matter: the people-watching is unrivaled anywhere you sit.

Truth or Dare

Long before the advent of lie-detector machines, and even before there were Bibles to swear on, there was the Bocca della Verità—the Mouth of Truth, the famous gaping mouth that so successfully terrified Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday. Long-ago legends have it that people suspected of telling lies would be marched up to the Bocca and have their hand put inside the mouth of this massive stone relief (originally an ancient street drain cover). If the suspect told the truth, nothing to fear. But if lies were told, the grim unsmiling stone mouth would take its revenge.

This is a great spot for kids to get the truth out of their brother or sister, so have your camera—and your probing questions!—ready. Don’t forget to take in the adjacent Santa Maria in Cosmedin church, one of Rome’s most evocative and atmospheric churches.

Lights, Camera, Action!

The Festival Internazionale del Film di Roma (Rome International Film Festival; www.romacinemafest.it), entering its sixth year, has hosted the likes of Martin Scorcese, Robert De Niro, and Meryl Streep. Though Rome is far from reclaiming its film prominence, lost decades ago, the festival draws important players in the world of film and sees its share of world premieres. The festival is held at the Auditorium Parco della Musica during a full week in the fall.

Two Coins in the Fountain

Rome has always been in love with amore. But romance is certainly nowhere more contagious than around its famous fountains. If a besotted couple can spare the time, a trip up to Tivoli’s Villa D’Este (an hour outside Rome via bus) is nirvana. Its seductive garden and endless array of fountains (about 500 of them) is the perfect setting to put anyone in the mood for love—it won’t be long before you hear Frank Sinatra warble “Three Coins in the Fountain” in your head.

That’s your cue to return to Rome and make a beeline for the luminous Trevi Fountain, even more enchanting at night than in the daytime. Make sure you and that special someone throw your coins into the fountain for good luck. Legend has it that those who do so are guaranteed a return trip back to Rome.

L’Aperitivo

Borrowed from i Milanesi, the trend of l’aperitivo has become moda in Rome. Not to be confused with happy hour, l’aperitivo is not about discounts or heavy drinking, but rather a time to meet up with friends and colleagues after work or on weekends—definitely an event in which to see and be seen. Aperitivo hours are usually from 7 to 9 pm.

Depending on where you go, the price of a drink often includes an all-you-can-eat appetizer buffet of finger foods, sandwiches, and pasta salads. Some aperitivo hotspots on the trendissimo list are Enoteca Palatium (Via Frattina) near the Piazza di Spagna; L’Angolo Divino (Via del Balestrari) near the Campo de’ Fiori; Freni and Frizioni (Via del Politeama) in Trastevere; and the 5th Floor Terrace at Il Palazzetto, set on a magical balcony right over the Spanish Steps.

Trawling for Treasure

There are plenty of street markets scattered about Rome that specialize in clothing, fashion accessories, and every imaginable knickknack. The two largest are the one on Via Sannio in the San Giovanni district (Monday–Saturday), which deals mostly in new and used clothing and accessories, and the Porta Portese market in Trastevere (Sunday only), offering everything from antiques and bric-a-brac to clothing and souvenirs. Make sure to ask for a sconto—or a discount.

Walk like a Roman

Rome was made for wandering, with relentelessly picturesque streets and alleyways, leading you past monuments, down narrow vicoli, through ancient Roman arches, and into hidden piazzas. A stroll is the best way to become attuned to the city’s rhythm and, no matter how aimlessly you stroll, chances are you’ll end up somewhere magical. We suggest you kick off your walking tours of the city with our custom-tailored neighborhood strolls that are detailed, step-by-step, in our “Roamin’ Holiday” chapter. Beyond tackling Baroque Rome, Trastevere, and the Roman Forum, however, you can also sign up for tours of many other sectors of the city with an array of companies that offer fascinating slants to their theme walks. The best walking tours in Rome are given by Context (www.contexttravel.com). These “scholar-led walking tours” include such delights as “Appian Way, Queen of Roads,” “The Age of Bernini,” and a “Caravaggio Seminar.” Also getting raves from the public and media are the truly wonderful walking tours offered by Through Eternity (www.througheternity.com), a company with a real Rome specialization, resulting in such top tours as “Underground Coloseum,” “Love and Death in Rome,” and “Immersion in Rome.” Other options are the winning tours created by Viator (www.viator.com), with such popular itineraries as “Skip the Line: Crypts and Roman Catacombs Small Group Walking Tour” or “Rome City Bike Tour.

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