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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | Planning

Updated by Margaret Stenhouse

A trip out of Rome introduces you to a more traditional aspect of Italy, where local customs and feast days are still enthusiastically observed, and local gastronomic specialties take pride of place on restaurant menus. Despite these small towns’ proximity to the capital and the increased commuter traffic congestion of today, they still each manage to preserve their individual character.

Ostia Antica, ancient Rome’s seaport, is one of the region’s top attractions—it rivals Pompeii in the quality of its preservation, and for evocativeness and natural beauty, it easily outshines the Roman Forum. The pre-Roman inhabitants of the area were wiped out in Rome itself, but their remains—and some say, their bloodlines—persist in the rolling hills of Tuscia and the Etruscan seaboard north and northeast of Rome. So if the screeching traffic and long lines at the Colosseo start to wear on you, do as the Romans do—get out of town. There’s plenty to see and do.

Top Reasons to Go

Ostia Antica: Perhaps even more than Pompeii, the excavated port city of ancient Rome conveys a picture of everyday life in the days of the Empire.

Tivoli’s Villa d’Este: Hundreds of fountains cascading and shooting skyward (one even plays music on organ pipes) will delight you at this spectacular garden.

Castelli Romani: Be a Roman for a day and enjoy the pleasures of the ancient hilltop wine towns on the city’s doorstep.

Get “Middle-Aged” in Viterbo: This town may be modern, but it has a Gothic papal palace, a Romanesque cathedral, and the magical medieval quarter of San Pellegrino.

Gardens Bizarre and Beautiful: Just a few miles from each other, the 16th-century proto-Disneyland Parco dei Mostri (Monster Park) is famed for its fantastic sculptures, while the Villa Lante remains the stateliest Renaissance garden of them all.

Getting Oriented

All roads may indeed lead to Rome, but for thousands of years emperors, popes, and princes have been heading fuori porta (beyond the gates) for a change of pace from city life. To the west lies ancient Ostia Antica; as you work your way north you encounter lava-rich Tuscia, with its Renaissance gardens. East of Rome is Tivoli, famed for retreats ranging from the noble—the Villa d’Este—to the imperial—Villa Adriana (Hadrian’s Villa). South lie the enchanting towns of the Castelli Romani.

Tuscia. The San Pellegrino district ofViterbois a 13th-century time capsule; at the gardens and palaces of nearbyBagnaia, Caprarola,andBomarzoyou can time-travel back to the Renaissance. Viterbo is a 13th-century time capsule; at the gardens and palaces of nearby Bagnaia, Caprarola, and Bomarzo you can time-travel back to the Renaissance.

Ostia Antica. This ancient Roman port is now a parklike archaeological site.

East of Rome. Rising above the heat of Rome is cool, greenTivoli,a fitting setting for the regal Villa Adriana and Villa d’Este. A few miles to the south, Palestrina’s majestic hillside once protected a great Roman temple and now shelters the Palazzo Barberini museum. Tivoli, a fitting setting for the regal Villa Adriana and Villa d’Este. A few miles to the south, Palestrina’s majestic hillside once protected a great Roman temple and now shelters the Palazzo Barberini museum.

Castelli Romani. Clustered amid the Alban Hills, these towns are rich in history and relentlessly picturesque:Frascatiis home to the majestic Villa Aldobrandini;Castelgandolfois the pope’s summer retreat;Aricciahas its grand Palazzo Chigi; whileNemienjoys an eagle’s-nest perch. Frascati is home to the majestic Villa Aldobrandini; Castelgandolfo is the pope’s summer retreat; Ariccia has its grand Palazzo Chigi; while Nemi enjoys an eagle’s-nest perch.

Planning

Making the Most of Your Time

Ostia Antica is in many ways an ideal day trip from Rome: it’s a fascinating sight, not far from the city, reachable by public transit, and takes about half a day to “do.” Villa d’Este and Villa Adriana in Tivoli also make for a manageable, though fuller, day trip. You can use up a flash card just on these two sights alone, but leave room to photograph Tivoli’s picturesque gorge, which is strikingly crowned by an ancient Roman temple to Vesta (now it’s part of the famed Sibilla restaurant). Other destinations in Lazio can be visited in a day, but you’ll get more out of them if you stay the night. A classic five-day itinerary would have you first visiting Ostia Antica, the excavated port town of ancient Rome. Then head north to explore Viterbo’s medieval streets on Day 2. On Day 3, take in the hot springs or the gardens of Bomarzo, Bagnaia, and Caprarola. For Day 4, head to Tivoli’s delights. Then on Day 5 take a relaxing trip to the Castelli Romani, where Frascati wine is produced. Admire the monumental gardens of the aristocrats of yore and explore the narrow streets of these small hill towns. Grand villas, ancient ruins, pretty villages—what more could any vacationer want?

Getting Here and Around

There’s reliable public transit from Rome to Ostia Antica, Tivoli, and Viterbo. For other destinations in the region, a car is a big advantage—going by train or bus can add hours to your trip, and routes and schedules are often puzzling.

Ferrovie dello Stato.
For train information, check with Ferrovie dello Stato, the national rail service. | 892021 | www.ferroviedellostato.it.

COTRAL.
This is the regional bus company. | 800/174471 | www.cotralspa.it.

Visitor Information

Tourist information kiosks in Rome can give you information about the Castelli Romani, Ostia Antica, and Tivoli.

Il Mio Lazio.
This is the official tourism website for the region. | www.ilmiolazio.it.

Restaurants

Please note that restaurant prices listed as “Average Cost” include a meal consisting of first course (primo), second course (secondo), and dessert (dolce).

Hotels

With relatively few exceptions (spas, beaches, and hill resorts such as Viterbo), accommodations in Lazio cater more to business travelers than to tourists. Rooms can be a little short on character, but they’ll more than do the trick for an overnight.

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