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Cannaregio | Castello | Dorsoduro | San Marco | San Polo | Santa Croce | Bacari (Wine Bars)

Dining options in Venice range from the ultra high-end, where jackets are required and shorts are a no-go, to the very casual. Once staunchly traditional, many restaurants have revamped their menus along with their dining rooms, creating dishes that blend classic Venetian elements with ingredients and methods less common to the lagoon environs.

Mid- and upper-range restaurants are often more willing to make the break, offering innovative options while keeping dishes like sarde in saor and fegato alla veneziana available as mainstays. Restaurants are often quite small with limited seating, so make sure to reserve ahead. It’s not uncommon for restaurants to have two sittings per night, one at 7 and one at 9. A traditional Italian meal includes several courses and should be a leisurely affair; so if you don’t want to be rushed, opt for the later sitting.

There’s no getting around the fact that Venice has more than its share of overpriced, mediocre eateries that prey on tourists. Avoid places with cajoling waiters standing outside, and beware of restaurants that don’t display their prices. At the other end of the spectrum, showy menu turistico (tourist menu) boards make offerings clear in a dozen languages, but for the same €15–€20 you’d spend at such places, you could do better at a bacaro making a meal of cicheti (savory snacks).

Note: the Actual Cost listed in each restaurant review is for a three-course meal, comprising a primo (appetizer), a secondo (fish or meat), and a dolce (dessert).

Cannaregio

Algiubagiò.
$$ | ITALIAN | A waterfront table is still relatively affordable at lunchtime here on Venice’s northern Fondamente Nove, where you can gaze out toward San Michele (the cemetery island, but still…) and Murano—on a clear day you can even see the Dolomites. Algiubagiò has a dual personality: pizzas and big salads at lunch; at dinner, creative primi like ravioli stuffed with pecorino di fossa (a hard sheep’s-milk cheese) are followed by elegant secondi such as Angus fillets with vodka and Gorgonzola. The young, friendly staff also serves ice cream, drinks, and sandwiches all day. A lunch table here is worth the walk for the view; the price rises considerably at dinner. Many dine here on their way to Murano and Burano but many would say you should wait and enjoy the better places on the Lagoon islands. | Average cost: €40 | 041/5236084 | www.algiubagio.net | Reservations essential | Station: Vaporetto: Fondamente Nove.

Anice Stellato.
$$ | VENETIAN | Off the main concourse, on one of the most romantic fondamente (canal-side streets) of Cannaregio, this family-run bacaro-trattoria is the place to stop for fairly priced, satisfying fare, though service can feel indifferent. The space has plenty of character: narrow columns rise from the colorful tile floor, dividing the room into cozy sections. Venetian classics like seppie in nero (squid in its ink) are enriched with such offerings as sarde in beccafico (sardines rolled and stuffed with breadcrumbs, herbs, and cheese) and tagliatelle with king prawns and zucchini flowers. They also serve several meat dishes, including a tender beef fillet stewed in Barolo wine with potatoes and lamb from the nearby Veneto hills. | Average cost: €35 | Fondamenta de la Sensa, Cannaregio 3272 | 30121 | 041/720744 | Closed Mon. and Tues., 1 wk in Feb., and 3 wks in Aug. | Station: Vaporetto: San Alvise or San Marcuola.

Botteghe di Promessi Sposi.
$$ | VENETIAN | The former Promessi Sposi eatery was rejuvenated when three fioi (guys) with considerable restaurant experience joined forces. Claudio mans the kitchen, while Nicola and Cristiano will serve you either an ombra (small glass of wine) and cicheto at the banco (counter), or a delightful meal in the dining room or the intimate courtyard. A season-centered menu includes local standards like calves’ liver or grilled canestrelli (tiny Venetian scallops), along with creative variations on classic Venetian fare, like homemade ravioli stuffed with radicchio di Treviso (red chicory leaves) or orichette (little ears—small cup-shaped pasta) with a scrumptious sauce of minced duck. The service is efficient, friendly, and helpful. | Average cost: €30 | Calle de l’Oca (just off Campo Santi Apostoli), Cannaregio 4367 | 30121 | 041/2412747 | Reservations essential | No credit cards | Closed Mon. No lunch Wed. | Station: Vaporetto: Ca’ d’Oro.

Enoteca Do Colonne.
$ | VENETIAN | Venetians from this working-class neighborhood frequent this friendly bacaro, not just for a glass of very drinkable wine, but also because of its excellent selection of traditional Venetian cicheti for lunch. There’s not only a large selection of sandwiches and panini, but also luscious tidbits like grilled vegetables, breaded and fried sardines and shrimp, and a superb version of baccalà mantecato. For the more adventurous, there are Venetian working-class specialties such as musetto (a sausage made from pigs’ snouts served warm with polenta) and nervetti (veal tendons with lemon and parsley). These dishes are worth trying at least once when in Venice, and Do Colonne offers the best musetto in town. | Average cost: €12 | Cannaregio 1814, Cannaregio | 30131 | 041/5240453 | No credit cards | Daily | Station: Vaporetto: San Marcuola.

Fiaschetteria Toscana.
$ | ITALIAN | Contrary to what the name suggests, there’s nothing Tuscan about this restaurant’s menu. It was formerly a Tuscan wine-and-oil storehouse, and it’s worth a visit for its cheerful and courteous service, fine cucina (cooking), and noteworthy cellar. The owners, Albino and Mariuccia Busatto, make their presence felt as they walk among the well-appointed tables, opening special bottles of wine and discussing the menu. Gastronomic highlights include a light tagliolini neri al ragù di astice (thin spaghetti served with squid ink and mixed with a delicate lobster sauce), and zabaglione. | Average cost: €70 | Campo San Giovanni Crisostomo, Cannaregio 5719 | 30121 | 041/5285281 | www.fiaschetteriatoscana.it | Reservations essential | Closed Tues. and 4 wks in July and Aug. No lunch Wed. | Station: Vaporetto: Rialto.

Fodor’s Choice | La Colombina.
$$ | ITALIAN | Many Venetians claim that owner Domenico Iacuzio is one of the best chefs in town, even though he hails from Italy’s deep south. A meal here, understandably, results in a delicious, traditional Venetian meal with slight southern accents: a natural combination, as it turns out, since both cuisines share ties with the eastern Mediterranean (due to their inclusion in the Byzantine Empire). For starters, his sarde in saor perfectly balances sweet and savory, and his diced raw tuna cipolata is enlivened by sautéed onions and oranges. His seafood risottos are always made to order and his preparations of freshly caught—never farmed—fish are magical. For the Venetian traditionalist, Domenico prepares a first-class frito misto (deep-fried seafood) dish. If you’ve missed his southern accent up to now, you’ll find it at dessert with homemade southern specialties such as cannoli or cassata (candied Sicilian cake). Portions are ample, the atmosphere is informal, and the service is helpful. | Average cost: €40 | Cannargio 1828 | 30131 | 041/5222616.

Osteria Ca’ D’Oro (Alla Vedova).
$ | VENETIAN | This traditional (and tiny) bacaro doubles as an excellent mid-range restaurant—and a great bargain to boot—serving superb versions of local specialties. La Vedova is justly famous for its meatballs, which you can have either at the counter with a glass of wine, or at a table, as a starter. Follow them up with a delicious helping of bigoli con salsa (thick spaghetti with anchovies, onions, and a dash of cinnamon), and then a well-made frito misto or seppie in nero. Nothing fancy nor inventive; just good food like your Venetian mamma used to make. TIP Forget the desserts—they were never part of a traditional Venetian meal anyway—and satisfy your sweet tooth with ice cream at Gelateria GROM, on the nearby Strada Nuova. | Average cost: €25 | Cannaregio 3912, Cannaregio | 30121 | 041/5285324 | Reservations essential | No credit cards | Closed Thurs. and late July–late Aug. | Station: Vaporetto: Ca’ D’Oro.

Tiziano.
$ | ITALIAN | A fine variety of excellent tramezzini (sandwiches) lines the display cases at this tavola calda (roughly the Italian equivalent of a cafeteria) on the main thoroughfare from the Rialto to Santi Apostoli; inexpensive salad plates and daily pasta specials are also served. Whether you choose to sit or stand, it’s a handy—and popular—spot for a quick meal or a snack at very modest prices. Service is efficient, if somewhat grumpy. | Average cost: €12 | Salizzada San Giovanni Crisostomo, Cannaregio 5747 | 30121 | 041/5235544 | No credit cards | Station: Vaporetto: Rialto.

Vini da Gigio.
$$ | VENETIAN | Paolo and Laura, a brother-sister team, run this refined trattoria as if they’ve invited you to dinner in their home, while keeping the service professional. Deservedly popular with Venetians and visitors alike, it’s one of the best values in the city. Indulge in pastas such as rigatoni with duck sauce and arugula-stuffed ravioli. Fish is well represented—try the sesame-encrusted tuna—but the meat dishes steal the show. The steak with red-pepper sauce and the tagliata di agnello (sautéed lamb fillet with a light, crusty coating) are both superb, and you’ll never enjoy a better fegato alla veneziana (Venetian-style liver with onions). This is a place for wine connoisseurs, as the cellar is one of the best in the city. Come at lunch or for the second sitting in the evening to avoid being rushed. | Average cost: €40 | Fondamenta San Felice, Cannaregio 3628/A | 30121 | 041/5285140 | www.vinidagigio.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Tues., 2 wks in Jan., and 3 wks in Aug. | Station: Vaporetto: Ca’ d’Oro.

Castello

Al Covo.
$$$ | VENETIAN | For years, Diane and Cesare Binelli’s Al Covo has set the standard of excellence for traditional, refined Venetian cuisine. The Binellis are dedicated to providing their guests with the freshest, highest quality fish from the Adriatic, and vegetables, when at all possible, from the islands of the Venetian lagoon and the fields of the adjacent Veneto region. Although their cuisine could be correctly termed “classic Venetian,” it always offers surprises like the juicy crispness of their legendary frito misto—reliant upon a secret, non-conventional ingredient in the batter—or the heady aroma of their fresh anchovies marinated in wild fennel, a herb somewhat foreign to Veneto. The main exception to Al Covo’s distinct local flavor is Diane’s wonderful Texas-inspired desserts, especially her dynamite chocolate cake. | Average cost: €58 | Castello 3968 | 30122 | 041/5223812 | Reservations essential | Closed Wed. and Thurs. | Station: Vaporetto: Arsenale.

Fodor’s Choice | Alle Testiere.
$$$ | VENETIAN | “Testiere” means “headboards,” a reference to the old headboards that adorn the walls of this tiny informal restaurant, where the food (and not the decor) is undoubtedly the focus. Local foodies consider this one of the most refined in the city thanks to Chef Bruno Cavagni’s gently creative take on classic Venetian fish dishes. The chef’s artistry seldom draws attention to itself, but simply reveals new dimensions to familiar fare, creating dishes that stand out for their lightness and balance. A classic black risotto of cuttlefish, for example, is surrounded by a brilliant coulis of mild yellow peppers; tiny potato gnocchi are paired with tender newborn squid; and fish dishes are often accentuated with berries and fruit. The menu changes regularly to capitalize on the freshest produce of the moment, and the wine cellar is top-notch. To enjoy a leisurely meal, be sure to book the second dinner sitting. | Average cost: €60 | Castello 5801, Castello | 30122 | 041/5227220 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon., 3 weeks Jan.–Feb.; 4 weeks July–Aug.

Fodor’s Choice | Il Ridotto.
$$$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | Longtime restaurateur Gianni Bonaccorsi has established a restaurant where he can pamper a limited number of lucky patrons with his imaginative cuisine. Ridotto, “reduced” in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative, yet traditional menu is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. The €60 tasting menus—one meat, one fish—where Gianni “surprises” you with a selection of his own creations, never fail to satisfy. Choose a wine from the excellent cantina. | Average cost: €80 | Campo SS Filippo e Giacomo, Castello 4509 | 30122 | 041/5208280 | www.ilridotto.com | Reservations essential | Closed Wed. No lunch Thurs. | Station: Vaporetto: San Zaccaria.

La Trattoria ai Tosi.
$ | ITALIAN | Getting off the beaten track to find good, basic local cuisine isn’t easy in Venice, but La Trattoria ai Tosi (aka Ai Tosi Piccoli) fills the bill with its remote (but not too), tranquil location, homey atmosphere, and variety of fine traditional fare at prices that make it worth the walk from anywhere in the city. The baccalà mantecato “sanwicini” are excellent, as are the classic frittura mista and the spaghetti with scallops and zucchini (a bargain at €10). You’ll also find a grilled steak and ribs platter that should fulfill any meat cravings. The fixed-price lunch menu, created for local workers with limited time, is another good deal, and there’s even decent pizza. (Note: make sure you end up at this smaller, locally owned Tosi, rather than the Tosi Grande across the way that’s no longer family owned.) | Average cost: €21 | Seco Marina 738 | 30122 | 041/5237102 | Closed Mon. | Station: Vaporetto: Giardini.

Dorsoduro

Ai 4 Feri.
$$ | VENETIAN | The paper tablecloths and cozy, laid-back ambience are part of this small restaurant’s charm. The menu varies according to what’s fresh that day; imaginative combinations of ingredients in the primi—herring and sweet peppers, salmon and radicchio, giant shrimp and broccoli with pumpkin gnocchi—are the norm. A meal here followed by after-dinner gelato at Il Doge or drinks in Campo Santa Margherita, a five-minute walk away, makes for a lovely evening. The kitchen is open until 10:30 pm. | Average cost: €35 | Calle Lunga San Barnaba, Dorsoduro 2754/A | 30123 | 041/5206978 | No credit cards | Closed Sun. and 2 wks in June | Station: Vaporetto: Ca’ Rezzonico.

Casin dei Nobili.
$ | PIZZA | When a Venetian living on the Dorsoduro side of the Grand Canal says, “Mangiamo una pizza insieme” (Let’s go out for pizza), there’s a good chance what he or she means is: “Lets go to the Casin dei Nobili,” a modestly priced, pleasant pizzeria just off the popular Campo San Barnaba. Pizza is not a Venetian specialty, and matters are made worse by the city-wide prohibition of open, wood-fire ovens—the only way to bake a pizza, according to the Neapolitans, who invented the dish. But you can enjoy a pretty good facsimile of a Neapolitan pizza here, along with good pasta and (moderately priced) fresh fish dishes. The relaxed, informal atmosphere makes this a good bet for families. Do reserve for the hotly coveted tables on the terrace. | Average cost: €25 | Off of Campo San Barnaba, Dorsoduro 2756 | 30123 | 041/2411841 | Reservations essential | No credit cards.

Impronta Cafe.
$ | VENETIAN | This sleek café is a favorite lunchtime haunt for professors from the nearby university and local businesspeople. Unlike in more traditional places, it’s quite acceptable to order only pasta or a secondo, without an antipasto or dessert. Although the restaurant is also open for dinner—and you can dine well and economically in the evening—the real bargain is lunch, where you can easily have a beautifully prepared primo or secondo, plus a glass of wine, for around €12–€18. There’s also a good selection of sandwiches and salads. The attentive staff speaks English, although you may be the only non-Venetian in the place. Unlike most local eateries, this spot is open from breakfast through late dinner. | Average cost: €20 | Dorsoduro 3815-3817 | 30123 | 041/2750386 | www.improntacafevenice.com | Closed Sun.

La Bitta.
$$ | NORTHERN ITALIAN | The decor is more discreet, the dining hours longer, and the service friendlier and more efficient here than in many small restaurants in Venice—and the non-fish menu (inspired by the cuisine of the Venetian terra firma) is a temptation at every course. Market availability keeps the menu changing almost every day, although typically you can start with a savory barley soup or gnocchi with winter squash and aged ricotta cheese. Then choose a secondo such as lamb chops with thyme, anatra in pevarada (duck in a pepper sauce), or guinea hen in cream. The homemade desserts are all luscious, and it’s been said that La Bitta serves the best panna cotta (flavored custard) in town. Trust owner Deborah Civiero’s selection from her excellent wine and grappa lists. | Average cost: €40 | Calle Lunga San Barnaba, Dorsoduro 2753/A | 30123 | 041/5230531 | Reservations essential | No credit cards | Dinner only. Closed Sun. and July. | Station: Vaporetto: Ca’ Rezzonico.

Fodor’s Choice | Osteria alla Bifora.
$ | VENETIAN | A beautiful and atmospheric bacaro, alla Bifora has such ample and satisfying food selections that most Venetians consider it a full-fledged restaurant. Most of the offerings consist of overflowing trays of cold sliced meats and cheeses, various preparations of baccalà (salt cod), or Venetian classics such as polpetti (meatballs), sarde in saor, or marinated anchovies. La Bifora also serves up a couple of excellent hot dishes, too; the seppie in nero (squid in its ink) is among the best in the city. Owner and barman Franco Bernardi and his sister Mirella are warm and friendly—after a few visits, you’ll be greeted like a member of the family. | Average cost: €25 | Campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro 2930 | 30123 | 041/5236119 | Reservations essential | No credit cards.

San Marco

Fodor’s Choice | Caffè Florian.
$$ | CAFÉ | Because of the prices and the tourist mobs, Venetians tend to avoid cafés in the Piazza San Marco. But when they want to indulge and regain control of their city, they go to Florian. Founded in 1720, it’s not only the city’s oldest café, but with its glittering neo-Baroque decor and attractive 19th-century wall panels depicting Venetian heroes, it’s undisputedly the most beautiful. Florian is steeped in local history: favored by Venetians during the long Austrian occupation, it was the only café to serve women during the 18th century (which is why it secured Casanova’s patronage), and it was the café of choice for such artistic notables as Wagner, Goethe, Goldoni, Lord Byron, Marcel Proust, and Charles Dickens. It was also the birthplace of the international art exhibition, which later blossomed into the Venice Biennale. The coffee, drinks, and snacks are quite good, but you really come here for the atmosphere and to be part of Venetian history. As with other cafés in the Piazza, there’s a surcharge for music. Savvy Venetians know that the prices are much lower if you have your drinks at the comfortable bar in the back. | Average cost: €30 | Piazza San Marco, San Marco | 041/5205641 | Daily 9:30 am–11:00 pm.

De Pisis.
$$$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | Lunch or dinner at De Pisis, the restaurant of the Bauer Palazzo Hotel, is perhaps less about dining than it is about having a culinary adventure. The spectacular view from the terrace across the Grand Canal to the Salute church will be the principal reminder that you’re in Venice, since much-celebrated Chef Gianni Ciresa’s highly experimental cuisine leaves the culinary traditions of the lagoon far behind. While the offerings emphasize fish and follow the essential outlines of Italian cuisine, they defy tradition more often than they amplify it. The risotto, for example, is made with carrot juice, orange, and chicory; the pesto for the linguini is made from seaweed; and the sea bass is steamed and served with sweet-and-sour winter squash, ginger, and squash seeds. A tasting menu is offered at €110 per person, but all members of your party must order it. | Average cost: €110 | Calle San Moise, San Marco 1459 | 30124 | 041/5207022 | Reservations essential | Station: Vaporetto: Valaresso or Santa Maria del Giglio.

Fodor’s Choice | Harry’s Bar.
$$$$ | VENETIAN | For those who can afford it, lunch or dinner at Harry’s Bar is as indispensable to a visit to Venice as a walk across the Piazza San Marco or a vaporetto ride down the Grand Canal. Harry’s is not just a fine restaurant; it’s a cultural institution. When founder Giuseppe Cipriani opened the doors in 1931, the place became a favorite of almost every famous name to visit Venice (including Charlie Chaplin, Orson Welles, and Ernest Hemingway) and still attracts much of Venetian high society as regulars. Today many still remember Harry’s as one of the few restaurants in town that continued to serve Jewish patrons during the period of the fascist racial laws. Inside, the suave, subdued beige-on-white decor is unchanged from the 1930s, and the classic Venetian fare is carefully and excellently prepared. Try the delicate baked sea bass with artichokes, and don’t miss the Harry’s signature crepes flambées or his famous Cipriani chocolate cake for dessert. Since a meal at Harry’s is as much about being seen, book one of the cramped tables on the ground floor—the upper floor of the restaurant, despite its spectacular view, is the Venetian equivalent of “Siberia” (but take heart: the second floor has windows with views that look like framed paintings). And be sure to order a Bellini cocktail—a refreshing mix of white peach purée and sparking prosecco—this is its birthplace, after all. | Average cost: €100 | Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1323, Piazza San Marco | 30124 | 041/5285777 | www.harrysbarvenezia.com | Reservations essential | Station: Vaporetto: San Marco (Calle Vallaresso).

Ristorante Quadri.
$$$$ | VENETIAN | Above the famed café of the same name sits one of the most legendary restaurants in Italy: Quadri, a name steeped in history (as a café, it was the first to introduce Turkish coffee to an already over-caffinated city in the 1700s), beauty—the period dark-wood furnishings, lush burgundy damask walls, and sparkling chandeliers epitomize Venetian ambiente like few other places—and mise-en-scene, thanks to its extraordinary perch on, and over, the Piazza San Marco. The Alajmo family (of the celebrated Le Calandre restaurant near Padua) has recently taken over the restaurant and put their accomplished sous-chef from Padua in charge of the kitchen. For tasting menus that range from €180 to €220 (exclusive of wine), you can savor such delights of creative cuisine as dill-flavored tagliolini with spider crab in a sauce of sea urchins and Venetian clams. Downstairs, the simpler abcQuadri (located next to the café)—decorated with neo-rococo wall paintings—serves more traditional Venetian fare; however, a three-course dinner will still set you back €100, without the added pleasure of wine. As for Quadri itself: the prices, cuisine, and decor are all alta, so why no “Fodor’s Choice”? The new management still needs to smooth over some bumps. | Average cost: €125 | Piazza San Marco 121, San Marco | 30124 | 041/5222105 | www.caffequadri.it | Reservations essential | Closed Mon.

San Polo

Fodor’s Choice | Al Paradiso.
$$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | In a small dining room made warm and cozy by its pleasing and unpretentious decor, proprietor Giordano makes all diners feel like honored guests. Pappardelle “al Paradiso” takes pasta with seafood sauce to new heights, while risotto with shrimp, champagne, and grapefruit puts a delectable twist on a traditional dish. The inspired and original array of entrées includes meat and fish selections such as a salmon with honey and balsamic vinegar in a stunning presentation. Unlike many elegant restaurants, Al Paradiso serves generous portions and many of the delicious antipasti and primi are quite satisfying; you may want to follow the traditional Italian way of ordering and wait until you’ve finished your antipasto or your primo before you order your secondo. | Average cost: €60 | Calle del Paradiso, San Polo 767 | 30125 | 041/5234910 | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and 3 wks in Jan. and Feb. | Station: Vaporetto: San Silvestro.

Alla Madonna.
$$$ | VENETIAN | “The Madonna” used to be world-famous as “the” classic Venetian trattoria, but in the past decades has settled down to middle-age. Owned and run by the Rado family since 1954, this Venetian institution looks like one, with its wood beams, stained-glass windows, and panoply of paintings on white walls. Folks still head here to savor the classic Venetian repertoire, and as most dishes are properly prepared (for the stiff prices, they should be), the rooms here are usually bustling so get ready to enjoy a festive and lively meal. | Average cost: €60 | Calle della Madonna, San Polo 594 | 30125 | 041/5223824 | www.ristoranteallamadonna.com | Reservations essential | Closed Wed., Jan., and 2 wks in Aug. | Station: Vaporetto: San Silvestro.

Fodor’s Choice | Antiche Carampane.
$$$ | VENETIAN | Judging from its rather modest and unremarkable appearance, you wouldn’t guess that Piera Bortoluzzi Librai’s trattoria is among the finest fish restaurants in the city, both because of the quality of the ingredients and because of the chef’s creative magic. Like other upscale seafood restaurants in Venice, this trattoria offers a selection of modern dishes such as turbot in citrus sauce; however, Antiche Carampane’s kitchen goes a step further: it explores the more complex and interesting, but lesser known, dishes from the traditional Venetian repertoire. Embark on a culinary journey with St. Peter’s fish with radicchio di Treviso; mullet in red wine; or an unusual spaghetti with spicy shellfish sauce from the town of Chioggia, the major fishing port on the Venetian lagoon. If you prefer simpler fare, the perfectly grilled fish is always sea caught and fresh, and in spring, try the local, fried soft-shell crabs. | Average cost: €60 | Rio Terà della Carampane, San Polo 1911 | 30125 | 041/5240165 | www.antichecarampane.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon., 10 days in Jan., and 3 wks in July and Aug. | Station: Vaporetto: San Silvestro.

Ostaria al Garanghelo.
$ | ITALIAN | Superior quality, competitive prices, and great ambience mean this place is often packed with Venetians, especially for lunch and an after-work ombra (glass of wine) and cicheti (snack). Chef Renato takes full advantage of the fresh ingredients from the Rialto Market, a few steps away, bakes his own bread daily, and prefers cooking many dishes al vapore (steamed). The spicy fagioli al uciletto (literally “bird-style beans,” prepared with a light marinara sauce) has an unusual name and Tuscan origins; it’s a perfect companion to a plate of fresh pasta. Don’t confuse this restaurant with one of the same name in Via Garibaldi. | Average cost: €30 | Calle dei Boteri, San Polo 1570 | 30125 | 041/721721 | Closed Sun. | Station: Vaporetto: Rialto.

Fodor’s Choice | Osteria Da Fiore.
$$$$ | VENETIAN | The understated atmosphere, simple decor, and quiet elegance featured alongside Da Fiore’s modern take on traditional Venetian cuisine certainly merit its international reputation. With such beautifully prepared cuisine you would expect the kitchen to be manned by a chef with a household name; however the kitchen is headed by none other than owner Maurizio Montin’s wife, Mara, who learned to cook from her grandmother. The other surprise is that while this restaurant is in an upper price category, it is hardly among the priciest in Venice. It offers several moderately priced (€50), three-course, prix fixe menus, which brings it very much into line with most of the more elegant choices in town. The menu is constantly changing, but generally frito misto or Da Fiore’s tender, aromatic version of seppie in nero, cuttlefish in black sauce, is almost always available. Reservations, perhaps made a few days in advance in high season, are essential for dinner, but you can try just dropping in for lunch. | Average cost: €80 | Calle del Scaleter, San Polo 2002 | 30125 | 041 721 308 | www.dafiore.net | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. | Station: Vaporetto San Tomà.

Santa Croce

Al Nono Risorto.
$ | VENETIAN | Although in the Santa Croce neighborhood, this friendly and popular trattoria is really only a short walk from the Rialto Market. You may not be the only tourist here, but you’ll certainly be outnumbered by the locals (and if just a couple or a trio, the friendly staff may ask you to share a table). There’s no English menu, but a server can usually help you out. Although pizza is not a Venetian specialty, it’s pretty good here, but the star attractions are the generous appetizers and excellent shellfish pastas. The house wine is quite drinkable, and in good weather you can enjoy your meal in the pergola-covered courtyard (do reserve if you want to snag a table there). | Average cost: €20 | Santa Croce 2337, Santa Croce | 30135 | 041/5241169 | Reservations essential | No credit cards | Closed Wed. No Thurs. lunch | Station: Vaporetto: Rialto Mercato.

Al Prosecco.
$ | WINE BAR | Locals stream into this friendly wine bar, down a “spritz” (a combination of white wine, Campari or Aperol, and seltzer water), and continue on their way. Yet, Al Prosecco is also the perfect place to explore wines from the region—or from anywhere in the county for that matter. They accompany a carefully chosen selection of meats, cheeses, and other food from small, artisanal producers, used in tasty panini like the porchetta romane verdure (roast pork with greens). Proprietors Davide and Stefano preside over a young, friendly staff who reel off the day’s specials with ease. There are a few tables in the intimate back room, and when the weather cooperates you can sit outdoors on the lively campo, watching the Venetian world go by. It’s open 9 to 9, and later if the mood strikes. | Average cost: €20 | Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio, Santa Croce 1503 | 30135 | 041/5240222 | www.alprosecco.com | No credit cards | Primarily for lunch, or an early light dinner | Closed Sun. | Station: Vaporetto: San Stae.

Il Refolo.
$$ | PIZZA | Besides serving excellent versions of classic pizzas, this elegant pizzeria (run by the same family who own the noted Da Fiore) will also tempt you with innovations such as pizza with castraore, the delicious and sinfully expensive tiny, white artichokes from the islands in the Venetian lagoon. Excellent pasta dishes and savory, simple mains, such as a wonderful roast chicken and potatoes dish, are also on offer. A pizza, with an appetizer and dessert, or a standard three-course meal should cost about €30, exclusive of wine. | Average cost: €30 | Campo San Giacomo all’Orio, Santa Croce 1459, Santa Croce | 30135 | 041/5240016 | Closed Mon. and Tues. lunch and Nov.–Mar. | Station: Vaporetto: San Stae.

Fodor’s Choice | La Zucca.
$ | VEGETARIAN | The simple place settings, lattice-wood walls, and mélange of languages make La Zucca (the pumpkin) feel much like a typical, somewhat sophisticated vegetarian restaurant that you could find in any European city. What makes La Zucca special is the use of fresh, local ingredients (many of which, like the particularly sweet zucca itself, aren’t normally found outside northern Italy), and simply great cooking. Though the menu does have superb meat dishes such as the piccata di pollo ai caperi e limone con riso (sliced chicken with capers and lemon served with rice), more attention is paid to dishes from the garden: try the radicchio di Treviso con funghi e scaglie di Montasio (with mushrooms and shavings of Montasio cheese), the finocchi piccanti con olive (fennel in a spicy tomato-olive sauce), or the house’s signature dish—the flan di zucca, a luscious, naturally sweet, pumpkin pudding topped with slivered, aged ricotta cheese. | Average cost: €30 | Calle del Tintor (at Ponte de Megio), Santa Croce 1762 | 30135 | 041/5241570 | www.lazucca.it | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and 1 wk in Dec. | Station: Vaporetto: San Stae.

Muro Pizzeria con Cucina.
$ | ITALIAN | Don’t let the name pizzeria con cucina fool you: Muro offers a varied menu and uses high-quality ingredients, taking its cue from its more refined sister restaurant, Muro Rialto. Select from excellent Venetian fare and pizza in classic and innovative forms—try the arrotolata amoretesoro (a rolled pizza) with bresaola (thinly sliced salt-cured beef), scamorza (mozzarella-like cheese made from cow’s milk), and radicchio. Chef Francesco adds dimension to the menu with classic Italian selections, along with the piatti unici, a single course fancifully combining elements of first and second courses. A wide selection of beer is on tap. | Average cost: €30 | Campiello dello Spezier, Santa Croce 2048 | 30124 | 041/5241628 | www.murovenezia.com | Reservations essential | Closed Tues. | Station: Vaporetto: San Stae.

Bacari (Wine Bars)

While the list below covers a few of the best of Venice’s bacari, it’s by no means exhaustive. Venetians themselves don’t know how many bacari thrive in their hometown, and often the perfect one is the one you happen upon when hunger, or thirst, strikes.

Fodor’s Choice | Cantina Do Mori.
$ | WINE BAR | This bacaro par excellence—cramped but warm and cozy under hanging antique copper pots—has been catering to the workers of the Rialto Market for generations. In addition to young, local whites and reds, the well-stocked cellar offers about 600 more refined labels, many available by the glass. Between sips you can munch on crunchy grissini (breadsticks) draped with prosciutto or a few well-stuffed, tiny tramezzini, appropriately called francobolli (postage stamps). Don’t leave without tasting the delicious baccalà mantecato. You can make a light lunch out of the cicheti (snacks) here, but you’ll have to do it standing at the bar; there are no tables. | Average cost: €10 | Calle dei Do Mori, San Polo 429 | 30125 | 041/5225401 | No credit cards | Closed Sun., 3 wks in Aug., and 1 wk in Jan. | Station: Vaporetto: Rialto Mercato.

Cantinone già Schiavi.
$ | VENETIAN | This beautiful 19th-century bacaro opposite the squero (gondola repair shop) of San Trovaso has original furnishings and one of the best wine cellars in town—the walls are covered floor to ceiling by bottles for purchase. Cicheti here are some of the most inventive in Venice—try the crostini-style layers of bread, smoked swordfish, and slivers of raw zucchini, or pungent slices of parmeggiano (Parmesan cheese), fig, and toast. They also have a creamy version of baccalà mantecato spiced with herbs, and there are nearly a dozen open bottles of wine for experimenting at the bar. | Average cost: €7 | Fondamenta Nani, Dorsoduro 992 | 30123 | 041/5230034 | No credit cards | Closed 2 wks in Aug. and most Sun. after 2 pm | Station: Vaporetto: Zattere, Accademia.

Enoteca al Volto.
$ | VENETIAN | A short walk from the Rialto Bridge, this bar has been around since 1936; the fine cicheti and primi have a lot to do with its staying power. Two small, dark rooms with a ceiling plastered with wine labels provide a classic backdrop for simple fare. The place prides itself on its considerable wine list of both Italian and foreign vintages. If you stick to a panino or some cicheti at the bar, you’ll eat well for relatively little. If you take a table and opt for one of the day’s exceptional primi (like the delicious risotto options), the price category goes up a notch; however, this is still one of the best restaurant bargains in Venice. There are, of course, traditional secondi, such as a very good seppie in nero. The house wine, as is to be expected in an enoteca, is quite drinkable. | Average cost: €30 | Calle Cavalli, San Marco 4081, San Marco | 30124 | 041/5228945 | www.alvoltoenoteca.it | No credit cards | Closed Thurs. | Station: Vaporetto: Rialto.

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