Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

Udine | Cividale del Friuli | Aquileia | Trieste | Castello di Miramare

The peripheral location of the Friuli–Venezia Giulia region in Italy’s northeastern corner makes it easy to overlook, but with its mix of Italian, Slavic, and central European cultures, along with a legendary wine tradition, it’s a fascinating area to explore. Venetian culture crept northward until it merged with northern European style evident in places like the medieval city of Udine. Cividale del Friuli and the Collio wine regions are a short hop away from Udine, and the old Austrian port of Trieste was, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, an important center of Italian literature.

Previous Map | Next Map | Northern Italy Maps

Udine

94 km (58 miles) northeast of Treviso, 127 km (79 miles) northeast of Venice.

Getting Here

There’s frequent train service from both Venice and Trieste; the trip takes about two hours from Venice, and a little over an hour from Trieste. By car from Venice, take the SR11 to the E55 and head east. Take the E55 (it eventually becomes the Autostrada Alpe Adria) to SS13 (Viale Venezia) east into Udine. Driving from Trieste, take the SS202 to the E70, which becomes the A4. Turn off onto the E55 north, which is the same road you would take coming from Venice. Driving times are 1½ hours from Venice and 1 hour from Trieste.

Visitor Information

Udine Tourism Office.
Piazza I Maggio 7 | 33100 | 0432/295972 | www.turismo.fvg.it | Mon.–Sat. 9–6, Sun. and holidays 9–1.

Exploring Udine

Udine, the largest city on the Friuli side of the region, has a provincial, genteel atmosphere and lots of charm. The city sometimes seems completely unaffected by tourism, and things are still done the way they were decades ago. In the medieval and Renaissance historical center of town, you’ll find unevenly spaced streets with appealing wine bars and open-air cafés. Friulani are proud of their local culture, with many restaurants featuring Friulano cuisine, and street signs and announcements written in both Italian and Friulano (Furlan). But the main reason for devoting some time to Udine is to see works by the last of the great Italian painters, Gianbattista Tiepolo (1696–1770). Distributed in several palaces and churches around town, this is the greatest assembly of his art outside Venice. Udine calls itself, in fact, la città di Tiepolo.

Commanding a view from the Alpine foothills to the Adriatic Sea, Udine stands on a mound that, according to legend, was erected so Attila the Hun could watch the burning of Aquileia, an important Roman center to the south. Although the legend is unlikely (Attila burned Aquileia about 500 years before the first historical mention of Udine), the view from Udine’s castle across the alluvial plane down to the sea is impressive. In the Middle Ages Udine flourished, thanks to its favorable trade location and the right granted by the local patriarch to hold regular markets.

Piazza della Libertà.
Udine was conquered by the Venetians in 1420, so there is a distinctly Venetian stamp on the architecture of the historic center, most noticeably in the large main square, the Piazza della Libertà. The Loggia del Leonello, begun in 1428, dominates the square and houses the municipal government. Its similarity to the facade of Venice’s Palazzo Ducale (finished in 1424) is clear, but there is no evidence that it is an imitation of that palace. It’s more likely a product of the same architectural fashion. Opposite stand the Renaissance Porticato di San Giovanni (1533–35) and the Torre dell’Orologio, a 1527 clock tower with naked mori (Moors, who strike the hours) on the top.

Fodor’s Choice | Palazzo Arcivescovile.
The Palazzo Arcivescovile (also known as Palazzo Patriarcale) contains several rooms of frescoes by the young Gianbattista Tiepolo, painted from 1726 to 1732. They comprise the most important collection of early works by Italy’s most brilliant 18th-century painter. The Galleria del Tiepolo (1727) contains superlative Tiepolo frescoes depicting the stories of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. The Judgment of Solomon (1729) graces the Pink Room. There are also beautiful and important Tiepolo frescoes in the staircase, throne room, and palatine chapel of this palazzo. Even in these early works we can see the Venetian master’s skill in creating an illusion of depth, not only through linear perspective, but also through subtle gradations in the intensity of the colors, with the stronger colors coming forward and the paler ones receding into space. Tiepolo was one of the first artists to use this method of representing space and depth, which reflected the scientific discoveries of perception and optics in the 17th century. In the same building, the Museo Diocesano features a collection of sculptures from Friuli churches from the 13th through the 18th century. | Piazza Patriarcato 1 | 33100 | 0432/25003 | www.museiprovinciaud.it | €5, includes Museo Diocesano | Wed.–Sun. 10–noon and 3:30–6:30.

Castello.
From the hilltop Castello (construction began 1517) panoramic views extend to Monte Nero (7,360 feet) in neighboring Slovenia. Here Udine’s civic museums of art and archaeology are centralized under one roof. Particularly worth seeing is the national and regional art collection in the Galleria d’Arte Antica, which has canvases by Venetians Vittore Carpaccio (circa 1460–1525) and Giambattista Tiepolo, an excellent Caravaggio, and a carefully selected collection of works by lesser-known but still interesting Veneto and Friuli artists. The museum also has a small but wonderful collection of drawings, containing several by Tiepolo; some find his drawings even more moving than his paintings. | Castello di Udine | 33100 | 0432/271591 | www.comune.udine.it | €5 (€8 during special exhibits) | May–Sept, Tues.–Sun. 10:30–7; Oct.–Apr., 10:30–5.

Duomo.
A few steps from the Piazza della Libertà is Udine’s 1335 Duomo. Its Cappella del Santissimo has important early frescoes by Tiepolo, and the Cappella della Trinità sports a Tiepolo altarpiece. There is also a beautiful late Tiepolo Resurrection (1751) in an altar by the sculptor Giuseppi Toretti. Ask the Duomo’s attendant to let you into the adjacent Chiesa della Purita to see more important late paintings by Tiepolo. | Piazza del Duomo 1 | 33100 | 0432/506830 | Mon.–Sat. 9–noon and 4–6, Sun. 4–6.

Where to Eat in Udine

Hostaria alla Tavernetta.
$$ | FRIULIAN | One of Udine’s most trusted food addresses since 1954, this restaurant is steps from the Piazza Duomo. It has rustic fireside dining downstairs and smaller, more elegantly decorated rooms upstairs, where there’s also a small terrace. On the menu are regional specialties such as orzotto (barley prepared like risotto), delicious cjalzòns (ravioli stuffed with ricotta, apples, raisins, and spices and topped with smoked ricotta, butter, and cinnamon), and perhaps the most tender suckling pig you have ever eaten. The restaurant offers a reasonably priced prix-fixe menu. The service is pleasant and attentive, and there’s a fine selection of Friuli’s celebrated wines and grappas. | Average cost: €35 | Via di Prampero 2 | 33100 | 0432/501066 | Closed Sun. and Mon., 1 wk in June, 2 wks in mid-Aug., and 2nd wk in Jan.

Osteria Al Vecchio Stallo.
$ | FRIULIAN | This former stable bursts with character, its beautiful courtyard shaded by grape arbors. The menu includes a wide choice of traditional Friuli home cooking. As an appetizer, try the prized prosciutto from the neighboring village of San Daniele, which some regard even more highly than the famous Parma prosciutto. For the first course try cjalzòns (the region’s answer to ravioli), or the excellent mignàculis con luagne (pasta with local sausage). Friuli classics such as frico con patate (hash-brown potatoes with Montasio cheese) or goulash with polenta are good second courses. On Friday there are also fish dishes. There’s a great selection of wines by the glass, and the gregarious chef-owner is a gracious host. | Average cost: €25 | Via Viola 7 | 33100 | 0432/21296 | No credit cards | Closed Wed. Sept.–June, Sun. in July and Aug., 3 wks in Aug., and Dec. 25–Jan. 7.

Where to Stay in Udine

Hostaria Hotel Allegria.
$$ | B&B/INN | In this 15th-century building a humble osteria has grown into a modern, comfortable family-run hotel. Design includes plenty of wood, polished into finely crafted furnishings and wall treatments. Lighting is done to dramatic effect. The attractive cantina hosts private dinner parties. Pros: well-appointed rooms; great staff; discounted weekend rates. Cons: rooms may be too minimalist for some; fee for parking. TripAdvisor: “a little gem in ‘secret’ Italy,” “very pleasant,” “cheerful and distinctive.” | Rooms from: €140 | Via Grazzano 18 | 33100 | 0432/201116 | www.hotelallegria.it | 20 rooms | No dinner Sun. No lunch Mon. | Breakfast.

Hotel Clocchiatti.
$$ | HOTEL | You have two choices here: stay in the restored 19th-century villa, where large double doors open onto canopy beds and Alpine-style wood ceilings and paneling, or opt for the rich colors and spare furnishings of the starkly angular rooms in the ultramodern (and slightly more expensive) “Next” wing. Some suites have sunken Japanese baths and gardens. Centuries-old trees shade the terrace, and high-design chaises surround the pool that’s painted entirely black. Pros: individually decorated rooms; quiet surroundings; swimming pool. Cons: 10-minute drive from town center; small bathrooms. TripAdvisor: “excellent accommodation and service,” “very good place to stay,” “perfect.” | Rooms from: €130 | Via Cividale 29 | 33100 | 0432/505047 | www.hotelclocchiatti.it | 27 rooms | Breakfast.

Cividale del Friuli

17 km (11 miles) east of Udine, 144 km (89 miles) northeast of Venice.

Getting Here

There’s hourly train service from Udine. Since the Udine–Cividale train line isn’t part of the Italian national rail system, you have to buy the tickets from the tobacconist or other retailers within the Udine station. You can’t buy a ticket through to Cividale from another city.

By car from Udine, take Via Cividale, which turns into SS54; follow SS54 into Cividale.

Exploring Cividale del Friuli

Cividale is the best place to see the art of the Lombards, a Germanic people who entered Italy in 568 and ruled until the late 8th century. The city was founded in AD 53 by Julius Caesar, then commander of Roman legions in the area. Here you can also find Celtic, Roman, and medieval Jewish ruins alongside Venetian Gothic buildings, including the Palazzo Comunale. Strolling through the part of the city that now occupies the former Gastaldia, the Lombard ducal palace, gives you spectacular views of the medieval city and the river.

Duomo.
Cividale’s Renaissance Duomo is largely the work of Pietro Lombardo, principal architect of Venice’s justly famous Santa Maria dei Miracoli. It contains a magnificent 12th-century silver gilt altarpiece. | Piazza Duomo | 33051 | 0432/731144 | Daily 7:30–7:30.

Museo Cristiano e Tesoro del Duomo.
The Museo Cristiano e Tesoro del Duomo, which you enter in a courtyard off to the right of the Duomo, contains two interesting and important monuments of Lombard art: the Altar of Duke Ratchis (737–744) and the Baptistry of Patriarch Callisto (731–776). Both were found under the floor of the present Duomo in the early 20th century. The museum also has two fine paintings by Veronese, one by Pordenone, and a small but fine collection of medieval and Renaissance vestments. | Via Candotti 1 | 33043 | 0432/730403 | Combined ticket with Tempietto Longobardo €4 | Summer, Wed.–Sun. 10–1 and 3–6; winter, weekends 10–1 and 3–6.

Museo Archeologico.
Trace the area’s history at the Museo Archeologico and learn about the importance of Cividale and Udine in the period following the collapse of the Roman Empire. The collection includes weapons and jewelry from 6th-century Lombard warriors, who swept through much of what is now Italy. | Piazza Duomo 13 | 0432/700700 | www.museiprovinciaud.it | €4 | Mon. 8–2, Tues.–Sun. 8:30–7:30.

Fodor’s Choice | Tempietto Longobardo (Lombard church).
Seeing the beautiful and historically important Tempietto Longobardo from the 8th century is more than enough reason to visit Cividale. Now within the Monastery of Santa Maria in Valle (16th century), the Tempietto was originally the chapel of the ducal palace, known as the Gastaldia. The west wall is the best-preserved example of the art and architecture of the Lombards, a Germanic people who entered Italy in 568. It has an archway with an exquisitely rendered vine motif, guarded by an 8th-century procession of female figures, showing the Lombard interpretation of classical forms that resembles the style of the much earlier Byzantine mosaics in Ravenna, which had passed briefly to Lombard rule in 737. This procession of female figures had originally extended to the side walls of the Tempietto, but were destroyed by the earthquake of 1222. The post-Lombard frescoes decorating the vaults and the east wall date from the 13th and 14th centuries, and the fine carved wooden stalls also date from the 14th century. | Via Monastero Maggiore, Via Monastero Maggiore | 33051 | 0432/700867 | www.museiprovinciaud.it | €4 | Oct.–Mar. 9:30–12:30, 3–5 (Sun. 2:30–6); Apr.–Sept. 9:30–12:30 (Sun. 9:30–1), 3–6:30 (Sun. 3–7).

Where to Stay in Cividale del Friuli

Locanda Al Castello.
$$ | HOTEL | Set on a peaceful hillside a few minutes’ drive out of town, this creeper-covered hotel was once a monastery. Rooms are spacious and furnished in varying styles, some antique, some modern, but all with large bathrooms. Locals gather here for Sunday lunch outdoors on the terrace, or indoors beside the large open fireplace. The most popular special is maltagliata alla lungobarda, thinly sliced beef, marinated and grilled. Pros: quiet area; discounts possible, depending on availability. Cons: need a car to get around. TripAdvisor: “wonderful family-owned hotel,” “great dinner,” “the most relaxing hotel experience.” | Rooms from: €150 | Via del Castello 12 | 33043 | 0432/733242 | www.alcastello.net | 25 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.

Aquileia

77 km (48 miles) west of Trieste, 163 km (101 miles) east of Venice.

Getting Here

Getting to Aquileia by public transport is difficult, but not impossible. There’s frequent train service from Venice and Trieste to Cervignano di Friuli, which is 8 km (5 miles) away from Aquileia by taxi (about €20) or infrequent bus service. (Ask the newsstand attendant or the railroad ticket teller for assistance.) By car from Venice or Trieste, take Autostrada A4 (Venezia–Trieste) to the Palmanova exit and continue 17 km (11 miles) to Aquileia. From Udine, take Autostrada A23 to the Palmanova exit.

Visitor Information

Aquileia Tourism Office.
Bus Terminal, Via Iulia Augusta, | Aquileia | 33051 | 0431/919491.

Exploring

This sleepy little town is refreshingly free of the tourists that you might expect at such a culturally historic place. In the time of Emperor Augustus, it was Italy’s fourth most important city (after Rome, Milan, and Capua), as well as the principal northern Adriatic port of Italy and the beginning of Roman routes north. Its prominence continued into the Christian era. The patriarchate (bishopric) of Aquileia was founded here around 314, just after the Edict of Milan halted the persecution of Christians and about the time that the Emperor Constantine officially declared his conversion. After several centuries of decline and frequent pillaging, including a sacking by Attila the Hun in 452, the town regained its stature in the 11th century, which it held onto until the end of the 14th century. Aquileia’s Roman and early Christian remains offer an image of the transition from pagan to Christian Rome.

Fodor’s Choice | Basilica.
Aquileia’s Basilica was founded by Theodore, its first patriarch, who built two parallel basilicas, now the north and the south halls, on the site of a 3rd-century Gnostic chapel. These were joined by a third hall, forming a U, with the baptismal font in the middle. The complex was rebuilt between 1021 and 1031, and later accumulated the Romanesque portico and the Gothic bell tower, producing the church you see today. The highlight of this monument is the spectacular 3rd- to 4th-century mosaic covering the entire floor of the basilica and the adjacent crypt, comprising one of the most beautiful and important of early Christian monuments. The mosaic floor of the present-day basilica is essentially the remains of the floor of Theodore’s south hall, while those of the Cripta degli Scavi are those of his north hall, along with the remains of the mosaic floor of a pre-Christian Roman house and warehouse.

The mosaics of the basilica are important not only because of their beauty, but also because they provide a window into Gnostic symbolism and the conflict between Gnosticism and the early Christian church. In his north hall, Theodore retained much of the floor of the earlier Gnostic chapel, whose mosaics, done largely in the 3rd century, represent the ascent of the soul, through the realm of the planets and constellations, to God, who is represented as a ram. (The ram, at the head of the zodiac, is the Gnostic generative force.) Libra is not the scales, but rather a battle between good (the rooster) and evil (the tortoise); the constellation Cancer is represented as a shrimp on a tree. The basis for the representation in Aquileia is the Pistis Sophia, a 2nd-century Gnostic tract written in Alexandria.

This integration of Gnosticism into a Christian church is particularly interesting, since Gnosticism had already been branded a heresy by influential early Church fathers. In retaining these mosaics, Theodore may have been making publicly expressing a leaning toward Gnosticism. Alternatively, the area of the north hall may have been Theodore’s private residence, where the retention of Gnostic symbolism may have been more acceptable.

The 4th-century mosaics of the south hall (the present-day nave of the basilica) are somewhat more doctrinally conventional, and represent the story of Jonah as prefiguring the salvation offered by the Church.

Down a flight of steps, the Cripta degli Affreschi contains beautiful 12th-century frescoes, among them Saint Peter sending Saint Mark to Aquileia and the beheading of Saints Hermagoras and Fortunatus, to whom the basilica is dedicated. | Aquileia | 33051 | 0431/91067 | Basilica free, both crypts €3, campanile €1.20 | Apr.–Sept, daily 9–7; March and Oct. 9-6 Nov.–Mar., weekdays 9–4:30, weekends 9–5; The Campanile is closed Nov.- March, open only weekends in Oct.

Archaeological Site.
Beyond the basilica and across the road, the archaeological site among the cypresses reveals Roman remains of the forum, houses, cemetery, and port. The little stream was once an important waterway extending to Grado. The area is well signposted. Unfortunately, many of the excavations of Roman Aquileia could not be left exposed because of the extremely high water table under the site. Much of Roman Aquileia had to be reburied after archaeological studies had been conducted; nevertheless, what remains aboveground, along with the monuments in the archaeological museum, gives an idea of the grandeur of this ancient city. | Aquileia | www.museoarcheo-aquileia.it | Free | Daily 8:15–7.

Museo Archeologico.
The Museo Archeologico contains a wealth of material from the Roman era. Notable are the portrait busts from Republican times, semiprecious gems, amber and gold work—including preserved flies—a fine glass collection, and beautiful pre-Christian mosaics from the floors of Roman houses and palaces. | Via Roma 1, | Aquileia | 33051 | 0431/91096 | www.museoarcheo-aquileia.it | €4 | Tues.–Sun. 8:30–7:30; Mon. 8:30–2.

Museo Paleocristiano.
What started out as an early-Christian 4th-century suburban basilica was transformed in the 9th century into a monastery and then a farmhouse. Now it’s a museum: some of the fragments of 4th-century mosaics preserved here are even more delicate than those in the main basilica. | Località Monastero, | Aquileia | 33051 | 0431/91035 | www.museoarcheo-aquileia.it | Free | Daily 8:30–2.

---

Trieste’s Caffè Culture

Trieste is justly famous for its coffee. The elegant civility of Trieste plays out beautifully in a caffè culture combining the refinement of Vienna with the passion of Italy. In Trieste, as elsewhere in Italy, ask for a caffè and you’ll get a thimbleful of high-octane espresso. Your cappuccino here will also come in an espresso cup, with only half as much frothy milk as you’ll find elsewhere and, in the Viennese fashion, a dollop of whipped cream. Many cafés are part of a torrefazione (roasting shop), so you can sample a cup and then buy beans to take with you.

Antico Caffè San Marco.
Few cafés in Italy can rival Antico Caffè San Marco for its bohemian atmosphere. After being destroyed in World War I, it was rebuilt in the 1920s, and then restored several more times, but some of the original Art Nouveau decor remains. It became a meeting place for local intellectuals and was the haunt of the Triestino writers Italo Svevo and Umberto Saba. | Via Battisti 18, | Trieste | 34125 | 040/363538 | Closed Mon.

Caffè Tommaseo.
Founded in 1830, classic Caffè Tommaseo is a comfortable place to linger, especially on weekend evenings and Sunday (11–1:30), when there’s live music. It’s open daily until 12:30 am. | Piazza Tommaseo 4/C, | Trieste | 34121 | 040/362666.

Cremcaffè.
Cremcaffè isn’t the ideal place to sit and read the paper, but its downtown location and selection of 20 coffee blends make it one of the busiest cafés in town. | Piazza Carlo Goldoni 10, | Trieste | 34122 | 040/636555 | Closed Sun.

I Paesi del Caffè.
The atmosphere is more modern than Old World at I Paesi del Caffè, which brews coffee and sells beans of most of the top varieties, including Jamaica Blue Mountain. | Via Einaudi 1, | Trieste | 34123 | 040/633897 | Closed Sun.

---

Trieste

71 km (44 miles) southeast of Cividale del Friuli, 163 km (101 miles) east of Venice.

Getting Here

Trains to Trieste depart regularly from Venice, Udine, and other major Italian cities. By car, it’s the eastern terminus of the Autostrada Torino–Trieste (E70). Trieste is served by Ronchi dei Ligioneri Airport, which receives flights from major Italian airports and some European cities. The airport is 33 km (20½ miles) from the city; transportation into Trieste is by taxi or Bus 51.

Visitor Information

Trieste Tourism Office.
Via dell’Orlogio 1, corner of Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia | 34121 | 040/3478312 | www.triesteturismo.com | Mon.–Sat. 9–6; Sun. 9–1.

Exploring Trieste

Trieste is built along a fringe of coastline where a rugged karst plateau tumbles abruptly into the beautiful Adriatic. It was the only port of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and, therefore, a major industrial and financial center. In the early years of the 20th century, Trieste and its surroundings also became famous by their association with some of the most important names of Italian literature, such as Italo Svevo, and English and German letters. James Joyce drew inspiration from the city’s multiethnic population, and Rainer Maria Rilke was inspired by the seacoast west of the city.

Trieste has lost its importance as a port and a center of finance, but perhaps because of its multicultural nature at the juncture of Latin, Slavic, and Germanic Europe, it’s never fully lost its role as an intellectual center. In recent years the city has become a center for science and the computer industry. The streets hold a mix of monumental, neoclassical, and Art Nouveau architecture built by the Austrians during Trieste’s days of glory, granting an air of melancholy stateliness to a city that lives as much in the past as the present.

Italian revolutionaries of the 1800s rallied their battle cry around Trieste, because of what they believed was foreign occupation of their motherland. After World War II the sliver of land including Trieste and a small part of Istria became an independent, neutral state that was officially recognized in a 1947 peace treaty. Although it was actually occupied by British and American troops for its nine years of existence, the Free Territory of Trieste issued its own currency and stamps. In 1954 a Memorandum of Understanding was signed in London, giving civil administration of Trieste to Italy.

Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia.
The sidewalk cafés on the vast seaside Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia are popular meeting places in the summer months. The imposing square, ringed by grandiose facades, was set out as a plaza open to the sea, like Venice’s Piazza San Marco, in the late Middle Ages. It underwent countless changes through the centuries and its present size and architecture are essentially products of late-19th- and early-20th-century Austria. The huge square was named and renamed, according to the political fortunes of the city; it was given its current name in 1955, when Trieste was finally given to Italy. On the inland side of the piazza note the facade of the Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall), designed by the Triestino architect Giuseppi Bruni in 1875. It was from this building’s balcony in 1938 that Mussolini proclaimed the infamous racial laws, depriving Italian Jews of most of their rights.

Piazza della Borsa.
A statue of Habsburg emperor Leopold I looks out over Piazza della Borsa, which contains Trieste’s original stock exchange, the Borsa Vecchia (1805), an attractive neoclassical building now serving as the chamber of commerce. It sits at the end of the Canal Grande, a canal dug in the 18th century by the Austrian empress Maria Theresa as a first step in the expansion of what was then a small fishing village of 7,000 into the port of her empire.

Teatro Romano.
The ruins of a 1st century AD amphitheater, Teatro Romano, near the Via Giuseppi Mazzini opposite the city’s questura (police station), were discovered during 1938 demolition work. Its statues are now displayed at the Museo Civico, and the space is used for summer plays and concerts. | Via del Teatro Romano | 34121.

Cattedrale di San Giusto.
The 14th-century Cattedrale di San Giusto, built on the site of an ancient Roman forum, contains remnants of at least three previous buildings built on the same ground, the earliest a hall dating from the 5th century. A section of the original floor mosaic still remains, incorporated into the floor of the present church. In the 9th and 11th centuries two adjacent churches were built on the same site, the Church of the Assumption and the Church of San Giusto. The beautiful apse mosaics of these churches, done in the 12th and 13th centuries by a Venetian artist, still remain in the apses of the side aisles of the present church. The mosaics in the main apse date from 1932. In the 14th century the two churches were joined and a Romanesque-Gothic facade was attached, ornamented with fragments of Roman monuments taken from the forum. The jambs of the main doorway are the most conspicuous Roman element. | Piazza della Cattedrale 3 | 34121 | 040/309666 | Daily 8:30–noon and 4–7.

Castello di San Giusto.
The hilltop Castello di San Giusto (built 1470–1630) was constructed on the ruins of the Roman town of Tergeste. Given the excellent view, it’s no surprise that 15th-century Venetians turned the castle into a shipping observation point; the structure was further enlarged by Trieste’s subsequent rulers, the Habsburgs. The castle also contains the Civic Museum, where there’s a small collection of furnishings, tapestries, and weaponry. | Piazza della Cattedrale 3 | 34121 | 040/309362 | €1, Museum €2 | Castle: Nov.–Mar., daily 9–5; Apr.–Oct., daily 9–7. Museum: Tues.–Sun. 9–1.

Civico Museo di Storia ed Arte.
On the hill near the Castello is the Civico Museo di Storia ed Arte, an eclectic history and art museum with statues from the Roman theater and artifacts from Egypt, Greece, and Rome. There’s also an assortment of glass and manuscripts. The Orto Lapidario (Lapidary Garden) has classical statuary, pottery, and a small Corinthian temple. | Via Cattedrale 1 | 34121 | 040/310500 | €4 | Tues.–Sun. 9–1.

Civico Museo Revoltella e Galleria d’Arte Moderna.
The Civico Museo Revoltella e Galleria d’Arte Moderna was founded in 1872, when the city inherited the palazzo, library, and art collection of shipping magnate Baron Pasquale Revoltella. The collection holds almost exclusively 19th- and 20th-century Italian art, much of which was collected by Revoltella himself. Along with the palace, the museum presents a good picture of the tastes of a Triestino captain of industry during the city’s days of glory. Call for hours during special exhibits. The museum’s rooftop café, where the view rivals the artwork, is open some evenings in summer. | Via Armando Diaz 27 | 34123 | 040/6754350 | €6.50 | Wed.–Mon. 10–1 and 3–7.

San Silvestro.
This beautiful, small Romanesque church, dating from the 9th to 12th centuries, is the oldest church in Trieste that’s still in use and in approximately its original form. The church was deconsecrated under the secularizing reforms of the Austrian emperor Josef II in 1785 and was sold to the Swiss Evangelical community; it then became the Reformed Evangelical and Waldesian church of Trieste, which it remains today. | Piazza San Silvestro 1 | 040/632770 | Daily 9–noon; services Sun. morning.

Off the Beaten Path: Castello Di Duino. The 14th-century Castle of Duino, where in 1912 Rainer Maria Rilke wrote his masterpiece, the Duino Elegies, is just 12 km (7½ miles) from Trieste. Take Bus 44 or 51 from the Trieste railway station. The easy path along the seacoast from the castle toward Trieste has gorgeous views that rival the Amalfi Coast and the Cinque Terre. The castle itself, still the property of the Princes of Thurn and Taxis, is open to the public; it contains a fine collection of antique furnishings and an amazing Palladian circular staircase. | Frazione Duino 32, | Duino-Ausina | 34013 | 040/208120 | www.castellodiduino.it | €7 | Mar. and late Oct., Wed.–Mon. 9:30–4; until 5 in early Oct. and 5:30 Apr.–Sept; open daily in early Mar. and weekends only in Nov. and Feb; closed most days Dec.–Jan.

Where to Eat in Trieste

Al Bagatto.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | At this warm little seafood restaurant near the Piazza Unità, chef-owner Roberto Marussi personally shepherds your meal from start to finish. The menu includes both traditional dishes, such as baccalà mantecato (creamed cod with olive oil), and more inventive creations, such as a sea bass tartare with fresh ricotta. Roberto’s dishes often integrate nouvelle ingredients without overshadowing the freshness of whatever local fish he bought in the market that morning. | Average cost: €50 | Via L. Cadorna 7 | 040/301771 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun.

Antipastoteca di Mare.
$ | SEAFOOD | Hidden halfway up the hill to the Castello di San Giusto, in what the Triestini call the old city, this little informal restaurant specializes in traditional preparations from the cucina povera. The inexpensive fish—bluefish, sardines, mackerel, mussels, and squid—are accompanied by salad, potatoes, polenta, and house wine. The consistently tasty and fresh dishes, especially the fish soup and the sardoni in savor (large sardines with raisins, pine nuts, and caramelized onions; “savor” is the Triestino-dialect equivalent of the Venetian “saor”), show what a talented chef can do on a limited budget. | Average cost: €17 | Via della Fornace 1 | 34131 | 040/309606 | Reservations essential | No credit cards | Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.

Da Pepi.
$ | NORTHERN ITALIAN | A Triestino institution, Da Pepi is the oldest and most esteemed of the many “buffet” restaurants around town—it and similar holes-in-the-wall (few tables, simple decor) are as much a part of the Triestino scene as the cafés. It specializes in bollito di maiale, a dish of boiled pork and pork sausages accompanied by delicately flavored sauerkraut, mustard, and grated horseradish. Unlike other Italian restaurants, buffets don’t close between lunch and dinner, and tap beer is the drink of choice. | Average cost: €12 | Via Cassa di Risparmio 3 | 34121 | 040/366858 | Closed Sun. and last 2 wks in July.

Suban.
$$$ | NORTHERN ITALIAN | An easy trip slightly outside town, this landmark trattoria operated by the hospitable Suban family has been in business since 1865. Sit by the dining room fire or relax on a huge terrace and watch the sunset. This is Italian food with a Slovene, Hungarian, and Austrian accent. Start with jota carsolina (a rich soup of cabbage, potatoes, and beans), and then you might order a steak grilled and sliced at your table. Lighter fare includes insalatine tiepide (warm salads with smoked pork or duck) and a smoked beef that is truly special. To get here you can take Bus 35 from Piazza Oberdan. | Average cost: €50 | Via Comici 2 | 34128 | 040/54368 | Reservations essential | Closed Tues., 1st 3 wks in Aug., and 2 wks in early Jan. No lunch Mon.

Where to Stay in Trieste

Duchi d’Aosta.
$$ | HOTEL | On the spacious Piazza Unità d’Italia, this hotel, beautifully furnished in Venetian-Renaissance style, has come a long way since its original incarnation as a 19th-century dockers’ café. Each of the rooms is decorated in elegant “one-off” style, with dark-wood antiques, rich carpets, and plush fabrics. One of northern Italy’s most impressive indoor pool–spa complexes, done up in the basement, below sea level, reflects the style of ancient Roman baths. On the hotel’s ground floor is Harry’s Grill ($$$$).Pros: lots of charm paired with modern convenience; great location; attentive staff. Cons: rooms overlooking the Piazza are very expensive; restaurant overpriced; late check-in (3 pm), although rooms are frequently ready sooner. TripAdvisor: “good quality old style,” “can’t do better than this,” “perfect romantic getaway.” | Rooms from: €189 | Piazza Unità d’Italia 2/1 | 34121 | 040/7600011 | www.grandhotelduchidaosta.com | 51 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.

Filoxenia.
$$ | B&B/INN | The reasonable prices and waterfront location make this small hotel a good budget choice. Members of Trieste’s Greek community run the Filoxenia, and there’s a Greek restaurant on-site, offering basic fare. The staff is friendly and helpful and rooms are simple and fresh. Price reductions for groups and longer stays are available. Pros: central; friendly staff; great price given the location. Cons: some very small, spartan rooms; some street noise; showers are cramped. | Rooms from: €150 | Via Mazzini 3 | 34121 | 040/3481644 | www.filoxenia.it | 20 rooms | Breakfast.

L’Albero Nascosto Hotel Residence.
$$ | B&B/INN | Hardly noticeable on its busy, narrow street, this hotel residence is one of the best values in Trieste. Each room is decorated with paintings by a local artist and furnished with antiques. The lobby boasts an old Roman column, recycled when the 18th-century building was constructed, and the smoking patio is enclosed by Trieste’s 15th-century city walls. Most rooms have kitchenettes, and though they lack phones, the kindly owners offer loaner cell phones. Pros: very central; spacious and simple but tastefully decorated rooms. Cons: steps to climb; no staff on-site after 8 pm (though late arrivals can be arranged). TripAdvisor: “great staff,” “a delightful experience,” “charming.” | Rooms from: €165 | Via Felice Venezian 18 | 34124 | 040/300188 | www.alberonascosto.it | 10 rooms | Breakfast.

Riviera & Maximilian’s.
$$$ | HOTEL | Seven kilometers (4½ miles) north of Trieste, this lovely hotel commands views across the Golfo di Trieste, including nearby Castello di Miramare; dining areas, the bar, and all guest rooms enjoy this stunning panorama. There’s no sand on this stretch of coast, but an elevator leads to the hotel’s own private bathing quay below, as well as to a children’s area. Some rooms have balconies and kitchenettes. The restaurant has indoor trompe l’oeil decor and an outdoor terrace. Pros: great views; gorgeous grounds. Cons: far from town; some rooms are cramped. TripAdvisor: “a spot of crystalline tranquility,” “incredible hillside location,” “excellent service.” | Rooms from: €205 | Strada Costiera 22 | 34010 | 040/224551 | www.hotelrivieraemaximilian.com | 56 rooms, 2 suites, 9 apartments | Breakfast.

Nightlife and the Arts in Trieste

Teatro Verdi.
Trieste’s Main opera house, the Teatro Verdi, was build under Austrian rule in 1801. The interior was designed by the architect of Venice’s La Fenice, Gian Antonio Selva, and the façade was designed by the architect of Milan’s La Scala, Matteo Pertsch. It is of interest not only for music lovers, but also because of its combination of architectural elements from Venice’s and Milan’s opera houses. You’ll have to go to a performance to see the interior, since guided tours are not given to individuals.

The opera season at the Teatro Verdi in Trieste runs from October through May, with a brief operetta festival in July and August. | Piazza Verdi 1 | 040/9869883 | www.teatroverdi-trieste.com.

Castello di Miramare

7 km (4½ miles) northwest of Trieste.

Getting Here

Bus 36 from Piazza Oberdan in Trieste runs here every half hour.

Exploring Castello di Miramare

Miramar.
Maximilian of Habsburg, brother of Emperor Franz Josef and retired commander of the Austrian Navy, built this seafront extravaganza from 1856 to 1860. The throne room has a ship’s-keel wooden ceiling; in accordance with late 19th-century taste, the rooms are generally furnished with very elaborate, somewhat ponderous 19th-century versions of medieval, Renaissance, and French period furniture, and the walls are covered in red damask. Maximilian’s retirement was interrupted in 1864, when he became emperor of Mexico at the initiative of Napoléon III. He was executed three years later by a Mexican firing squad. His wife, Charlotte of Belgium, went mad and returned to Miramar, and later to her native country. During the last years of the Habsburg reign, Miramar became one of the favorite residences of the wife of Franz Josef, the Empress Elizabeth (Sissi). The castle was later owned by Duke Amadeo of Aosta, who renovated some rooms in the rationalist style and installed modern plumbing in his Art Deco bathroom. Tours in English are available by reservation. Surrounding the castle is a 54-acre park, partly wooded and partly sculpted into attractive gardens. | Viale Miramare off SS14 | 34135 | 040/224143 | www.castello-miramare.it | Castle €4 (€6 during some special exhibits), guided tour €4, park free | Castle: daily 9–7. Last entry ½ hr before closing. Park: Apr.–Sept., daily 8–7; Nov.–Feb., daily 8–5; Mar. and Oct., daily 8–6.

Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents