Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

Merano (Meran) | Naturno (Naturns) | Caldaro (Kaltern) | Bressanone (Brixen) | Brunico (Bruneck)

Prosperous valley towns (such as the famed spa center of Merano) and mountain resorts entice those seeking both relaxation and adventure. Alto Adige (Südtirol) was for centuries part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, only ceded to Italy at the end of World War I. Ethnic differences led to inevitable tensions in the 1960s and again in the ‘80s, though a large measure of provincial autonomy has, for the most part, kept the lid on nationalist ambitions. Today Germanic and Italian balance harmoniously, as do medieval and modern influences, with ancient castles regularly playing host to contemporary art exhibitions.

Previous Map | Next Map | Northern Italy Maps

Merano (Meran)

24 km (15 miles) north of Bolzano, 16 km (10 miles) east of Naturno.

Visitor Information

Merano Tourism Office.
Corso Libertà 45 | 39012 | 0473/272000 | www.meran.eu.

Exploring Merano (Meran)

The second-largest town in Alto Adige, Merano (Meran) was once the capital of the Austrian region of Tirol. When the town and surrounding area were ceded to Italy as part of the 1919 Treaty of Versailles, Innsbruck became Tirol’s capital. Merano continued to be known as a spa town, attracting European nobility for its therapeutic waters and its grape cure, which consists simply of eating the grapes grown on the surrounding hillsides. Sheltered by mountains, Merano has an unusually mild climate, with summer temperatures rarely exceeding 80°F (27°C) and winters that usually stay above freezing, despite the skiing that’s within easy reach. Along the narrow streets of Merano’s old town, houses have little towers and huge wooden doors, and the pointed arches of the Gothic cathedral sit next to neoclassical and Art Nouveau buildings. Merano serves as a good respite from mountain adventures, or from the bustle of nearby Trento and Bolzano.

Duomo.
The 14th-century Gothic Duomo, with a crenellated facade and an ornate campanile, sits in the heart of the old town. The Capella di Santa Barbara, just behind the cathedral, is an octagonal church containing a 15th-century pietà. | Piazza del Duomo | 39012 | Easter–Sept., daily 8–noon and 2:30–8; Oct.–Easter, daily 8–noon and 2:30–7.

Terme di Merano.
The Terme di Merano is a sprawling spa complex with 25 pools (including a brine pool with underwater music) and eight saunas (with an indoor “snow room” available for cooling down). Along with the family-friendly options for bathing, personalized services for grown-ups include traditional cures using local products, such as grape-based applications and whey baths. An admission charge of about €15 gets you two hours in thermal baths; €26.50 is for a full day’s use of all baths and saunas. | Piazza Terme 9 | 39012 | 0473/252000 | www.termemerano.it | Daily 9 am–10 pm.

Castel Trauttmansdorff.
This Gothic castle was restored in the 19th century and now serves as a museum, celebrating 200 years of tourism in south Tirol. Outside, a sprawling garden has an extensive display of exotic flora organized by country of origin. An English-language audio guide is available for €2.50. The castle is about 2 km (1 mile) southeast of town. | Via Valentino 51a | 39012 | 0473/235730 | www.trauttmansdorff.it | €10.20 | Apr., May, Sept., and Oct. daily 9–7; Jun.–Aug. Sat.–Thurs. 9–7, Fri. 9 am–11 pm.

Museo Agricolo di Brunnenburg.
Overlooking the town atop Mt. Tappeinerweg is Castel Fontana, which was the home of poet Ezra Pound from 1958 to 1964. Still in the Pound family, the castle now houses the Museo Agricolo di Brunnenburg, devoted to Tirolean country life. Among its exhibits are a blacksmith’s shop and a room with Pound memorabilia. To get here, take Bus 3, which departs every hour on the hour, from Merano to Dorf Tirol (20 minutes). | Via Castello 17, | Brunnenburg | 39019 | 0473/923533 | €4 | Easter–Oct., Sun.–Thurs. 10–5.

Fodor’s Choice | Promenades.
A stroll along one of Merano’s well-marked, impossibly pleasant promenades may yield even better relaxation than time in its famous spa. Passeggiata Tappeiner (Tappeiner’s Promenade) is a 3-km (2-mile) path with panoramic views from the hills north of the Duomo and diverse botanical pleasures along the way. Passeggiata d’Estate (Summer Promenade) runs along the shaded south bank of the Passirio River, and the Passeggiata d’Inverno (Winter Promenade), on the exposed north bank, provides more warmth and the Wandelhalle—a sunny area decorated with idyllic paintings of surrounding villages. The popular Austrian empress Sissi (Elisabeth of Wittelsbach, 1837–98) put Merano on the map as a spa destination; a trail named in her honor, the Sentiero di Sissi (Sissi’s Walk), follows a path from Castel Trauttmansdorff to the heart of Merano.

Quick Bites: Cafe Saxifraga. An extensive selection of teas and other beverages can be enjoyed on the patio; the cafe has an enviable position overlooking Merano and the peaks enveloping the town. | Passeggiata Tappeiner | 39012 | 0473/239249 | www.saxifraga.it.

Cafe Glif. You can enjoy a rich hot chocolate or a cold beer above a gurgling waterfall at Cafe Glif, at the northeast edge of the Passeggiata d’Inverno. | Passeggiata Glif 51 | 39012 | 0473/690321 | Fri.–Wed. 10–8.

Where to Eat in Merano (Meran)

Haisrainer.
$ | NORTHERN ITALIAN | Among the rustic wine taverns lining Via dei Portici, this one is most popular with locals and tourists alike; a menu in English is available. Warm wooden walls provide a comfortable setting for Tirolean and Italian standards: try the zuppa al vino bianco (stew with white wine) or the seasonal risottos (with asparagus in spring, or Barolo wine in chillier months). | Average cost: €28 | Via dei Portici 100 | 39012 | 0473/237944 | Closed Sun.

Sieben.
$$ | ITALIAN | Young Meraners crowd the bar on the ground floor of this modern bistro, in the town’s central arcade. Upstairs, an older crowd enjoys the contemporary cooking and attentive service in the jazz-themed dining room. Sieben occasionally hosts jazz concerts in summer. | Average cost: €30 | Via dei Portici 232 | 39012 | 0473/210636 | www.bistrosieben.it | Closed Tues. Nov.–Apr.

Sissi.
$$$ | NORTHERN ITALIAN | In this relaxed, light-filled restaurant just off Via dei Portici, rustic regional dishes are prepared with precision. Menu choices may include gnocchi di formaggio con salsa all’ erba cipollina (with cheese and chives) and vitello alle castagne e tartufo nero (veal with chestnuts and black truffles). | Average cost: €50 | Via Galilei 44 | 39012 | 0473/231062 | www.andreafenoglio.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and 3 wks Feb.–Mar. No lunch Tues.

Vinoteca-Pizzeria Relax.
$$ | NORTHERN ITALIAN | If you have difficulty choosing from the long list of tasty pizzas here, ask the friendly English-speaking staff for help with the menu. You’re unlikely to find a better selection of wine, or a more pleasant environment for sampling. You can also buy bottles of the locally produced vintage to take home. | Average cost: €40 | Via Cavour 31, opposite Palace Hotel | 39012 | 0473/236735 | www.weine-relax.it | Closed Sun. and 2 wks Feb.–Mar.

Where to Stay in Merano (Meran)

Castello Labers.
$$$ | HOTEL | The red-tile gables, towers, and turrets give this castle its unmistakably Tirolean style, as it sits on a hilltop amid forested slopes. Ceiling beams, painted fresco decorations, and crossed halberds on the walls complete the look inside. The hospitable management includes dinner with the room price when guests book three nights or longer. The hotel is 3 km (2 miles) northeast of Merano’s center. Pros: romantic setting; spectacular views. Cons: long walk into town; some bathrooms are small. TripAdvisor: “charming,” “magical location,” “just wonderful.” | Rooms from: €280 | Via Labers 25 | 39012 | 0473/234484 | www.labers.it | 32 rooms, 1 suite | Closed early-Nov.–late-Apr. | Multiple meal plans.

Conte di Merano.
$ | HOTEL | If you don’t feel like paying for one of Merano’s resorts, this simple central hotel is a good alternative. Steps away from Via dei Portici and open year-round, it’s an efficient base for exploring the town. Rooms have spartan furnishings, but are comfortable. Pros: excellent base for exploring Merano; reasonable rates. Cons: basic decor. | Rooms from: €85 | Via delle Corse 78 | 39012 | 0473/490260 | www.grafvonmeran.com | 20 rooms | Breakfast.

Naturno (Naturns)

44 km (27 miles) northwest of Bolzano, 61 km (38 miles) east of Passo dello Stelvio.

Visitor Information

Naturno Tourism Office.
Piazza Municipio 1 | 39025 | 0473/666077 | www.naturns.it.

Exploring Naturno (Naturns)

Colorful houses covered with murals line the streets of Naturno (Naturns).

San Procolo (Prokolus).
Art lovers will appreciate the church of San Procolo. The frescoes inside are some of the oldest in the German-speaking world, dating from the 8th century. A small, modern museum offers multimedia installations (in Italian or German only) presenting four epochs in the region’s history: ancient, medieval, Gothic, and the era of the Great Plague of 1636 (which claimed a quarter of Naturno’s population, some of whom are buried in the church’s cemetery). | Via San Procolo | 39025 | 0473/667312 | www.procolo.org | €5 church and museum | 2 wks before Easter–early Nov., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–noon and 2:30–5:30; mid-Nov.–2 wks before Easter, Tues.–Sun. 9:30–noon and 2:30–5.

Castel Juval.
The 13th-century Castel Juval is in the hills above the hamlet of Stava, a five-minute shuttle ride from Naturno (there’s no parking at the castle), or an hour hike on many local trails. Since 1983 it’s been the home of the south Tirolese climber and polar adventurer Reinhold Messner—the first climber to conquer Everest solo. Part of the castle has been turned into one of five in Messner’s chain of Dolomite museums, giving guided tours of his collection of Tibetan art and masks from around the world. | Viale Europa 2 | 39020 | 0473/668056, 0473/668058 shuttle | www.messner-mountain-museum.it | €8 | Easter–June and Sept.–early Nov., Thurs.–Tues. 10–4.

Where to Eat in Naturno (Naturns)

Schlosswirt Juval.
$ | NORTHERN ITALIAN | Reinhold Messner’s restored farmhouse, which is below Castel Juval, holds an old-style restaurant serving Mediterranean standards and traditional local dishes. Not to be missed are the smoked hams and flavorful cheeses provisioned from the farm outside; they are well paired with the estate’s Castel Juval wine. Dinner is often accompanied by live jazz. | Average cost: €30 | Juval 2 | 39020 | 0473/668056 | www.schlosswirtjuval.it | No credit cards | Closed Wed. and mid-Dec.–mid-Mar.

Caldaro (Kaltern)

15 km (9 miles) south of Bolzano.

Visitor Information

Caldaro Tourism Office.
Piazza Mercato 8 | 39052 | 0471/963169 | www.kaltern.com or www.suedtiroler-weinstrasse.it.

Exploring Caldaro (Kaltern)

A vineyard village with clear views of castles high up on the surrounding mountains represents the centuries of division that forged the unique character of the area. Caldaro architecture is famous for the way it blends Italian Renaissance elements of balance and harmony with the soaring windows and peaked arches of the Germanic Gothic tradition. The church of Santa Caterina, on the main square, is a good example.

South Tyrolean Wine Museum.
Head here for exhibits on how local wine has historically been made, stored, served, and worshipped. You can board the bus in front of the tourist office at 10 each Thursday for a museum tour and wine tasting in the cellar, or call ahead to reserve. | Via dell’Oro 1, near main square | 39052 | 0471/963168 | www.weinmuseum.it | €4, wine tasting €5 | Easter–Nov., Tues.–Sat. 10–5, Sun. 10–noon.

Bressanone (Brixen)

40 km (25 miles) northeast of Bolzano.

Visitor Information

Bressanone Tourism Office.
Via Stazione 9 | 39042 | 0472/836401 | www.brixen.org.

Exploring Bressanone (Brixen)

Bressanone (Brixen) is an important artistic center and was the seat of prince-bishops for centuries. Like their counterparts in Trento, these medieval administrators had the delicate task of serving two masters—the pope (the ultimate spiritual authority) and the Holy Roman Emperor (the civil and military power), who were virtually at war throughout the Middle Ages. Bressanone’s prince-bishops became experts at tact and diplomacy.

Duomo.
The imposing Duomo (town cathedral) was built in the 13th century but acquired a Baroque facade 500 years later; its 14th-century cloister is decorated with medieval frescoes. | Piazza Duomo | 39042 | Easter–Oct., daily 7–6; Nov.–Sat. before Easter, daily 7–noon and 3–6.

Museo Diocesano (Diocesan Museum).
The Bishop’s Palace houses the Museo Diocesano and its abundance of local medieval art, particularly Gothic wood carvings. The wooden statues and liturgical objects were all collected from the cathedral treasury. During the Christmas season, curators arrange the museum’s large collection of antique Nativity scenes; look for the shepherds wearing Tirolean hats. | Palazzo Vescovile 2 | 39042 | 0472/830505 | www.dioezesanmuseum.bz.it | €7 | Mid-Mar.–Oct. and Dec.–Jan. 6, Tues.–Sun. 10–5; closed Dec. 24 and 25.

Abbazia di Novacella.
At Abbazia di Novacella, an Augustinian abbey founded in 1142, they’ve been making wine for at least nine centuries. In the tasting room you can sample varietals produced in the Isarco Valley; Novacella is most famous for the delicate stone-fruit character of its dry white Sylvaner. You can also wander the delightful grounds; note the progression of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque building styles. Guided tours of the abbey (in Italian and German) depart daily at 10, 11, 2, 3, and 4, as well as at noon and 1 in summer; from January through March, tours are by reservation only. | Località Novacella 1, | Varna | 39040 | 3 km (2 miles) north of Bressanone | 0472/836189 | www.kloster-neustift.it | Grounds and tasting room free, guided tours €6 | Grounds: Mon.–Sat. 10–7. Tasting room: Mon.–Sat. 10–7.

Where to Eat and Stay in Bressanone (Brixen)

Fink.
$$ | NORTHERN ITALIAN | The rustic wood-paneled dining room is upstairs in this restaurant under the arcades of the pedestrians-only town center. Try the carré di maiale gratinato (pork chops roasted with cheese and served with cabbage and potatoes) or the castrato alla paesana, a substantial lamb stew. In addition to hearty Tirolean specialties, there’s an affordable daily set menu, as well as homemade pastries. | Average cost: €35 | Via Portici Minori 4 | 39042 | 0472/834883 | www.restaurant-fink.it | No dinner Tues. Closed Wed.

Elephant.
$$$ | HOTEL | This cozy inn, 550 years old and still one of the region’s best, takes its name from the 1551 visit of King John III of Portugal, who stopped here while leading an elephant (a present for Austria’s Emperor Ferdinand) over the Alps. Each room is unique, many filled with antiques and paintings. Housed on the park property is the separate Villa Marzari, with 14 rooms. A rustic three-room stube serves tasty fare. Pros: central location; good restaurant. Cons: rooms vary in size; often filled with groups. TripAdvisor: “in a category all of its own,” “charm and elegance,” “good restaurant.” | Rooms from: €236 | Via Rio Bianco 4 | 39042 | 0472/832750 | www.hotelelephant.com | 44 rooms | Breakfast.

Brunico (Bruneck)

33 km (20 miles) east of Bressanone, 65 km (40 miles) northwest of Cortina d’Ampezzo.

Visitor Information

Brunico Tourism Office.
Piazza Municipio 7 | 39031 | 0474/555722 | www.bruneck.com.

Exploring Brunico (Bruneck)

Brunico’s medieval quarter nestles below a 13th-century bishop’s castle. In the heart of the Val Pusteria, this quiet and quaint town is divided by the Rienza River, with the old quarter on one side and the modern town on the other.

Museo Etnografico dell’Alto Adige (Alto Adige Ethnographic Museum).
The open-air Museo Etnografico dell’Alto Adige re-creates a Middle Ages farming village, built around a 300-year-old mansion. The wood-carving displays are most interesting. The museum is in the district of Teodone, northeast of the center. | Herzog-Diet-Straße 24 | 39031 | 0474/552087 | www.volkskundemuseum.it | €6 | Sept.–July, Tues.–Sat. 10–5, Sun. 2–6; Aug., Tues.–Sat. 10–6, Sun. 2–6.

Where to Stay in Brunico (Bruneck)

Hotel Post.
$$$ | HOTEL | The Von Grebmer family runs this homey hotel in a building dating from the 1880s. The efficient service is the hotel’s trademark. This is the most central, appealing lodging choice in town, especially if you’ve got a sweet tooth—there’s a pastry shop attached. The hotel has its own parking, an unusual perk in the pedestrians-only center. Pros: family-run friendliness; central location. Cons: no air-conditioning; deposit required to confirm reservations; surcharge for stays of less than three days on weekends and during high season. | Rooms from: €220 | Via Bastioni 9 | 39031 | 0474/555127 | www.hotelpost-bruneck.com | 33 rooms, 6 suites | Multiple meal plans.

Skiing

Alta Badia.
The Alta Badia ski area, which includes 52 ski lifts and 130 km (80 miles) of slopes, can be reached by heading 30 km (19 miles) south on SS244 from Brunico. It’s cheaper (€25/€35) and more Austrian in character than the more famous ski destinations in this region. Groomed trails for cross-country skiing (usually loops marked off by the kilometer) accommodate differing degrees of ability. Inquire at the local tourist office. | 0471/836366 Corvara | www.altabadia.org.

Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents