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Pavia, Cremona, and Mantua

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Once proud medieval fortress towns rivaling Milan in power, these centers of industry and commerce on the Po Plain still play a key role in Italy’s wealthiest, most populous region. Pavia is celebrated for its extraordinarily detailed Carthusian monastery, and Cremona for its incomparable violin-making tradition. Mantua—the most picturesque of the three—was the home of the fantastically wealthy Gonzaga dynasty for almost 300 years.

The Po Plain

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Pavia

41 km (25 miles) south of Milan.

Getting Here

By car from Milan, start out on the A7 Autostrada and exit onto A53 as you near Pavia; the drive is 40 km (25 miles) and takes about 45 minutes. Pavia is 30 to 40 minutes by train from Milan and 1½ hours (by slower regional service) from Cremona. The Certosa is 30 minutes by train from several Milan stations.

Visitor Information

Pavia Tourism Office.
Palazzo del Broletto, Piazza della Vittoria | 27100 | 0382/597001 | www.turismo.provincia.pv.it.

Exploring Pavia

Pavia was once Milan’s chief regional rival. The city dates from at least the Roman era and was the capital of the Lombard kings for two centuries (572–774). It was at one time known as “the city of a hundred towers,” but only a handful have survived the passing of time. Its prestigious university was founded in 1361 on the site of a 10th-century law school, but it has roots that can be traced to antiquity.

Castello Visconteo.
The 14th-century Castello Visconteo now houses the local Museo Civico (Municipal Museum), with a Romanesque and Renaissance sculpture gallery, an archaeological collection, and a large picture gallery featuring works by Correggio, Bellini, Tiepolo, Hayez, Pelizza da Volpedo, and La Foppa, among others. | Viale XI Febbraio 35, near Piazza Castello | 27100 | 0382/33853 | www.museicivici.pavia.it | €6 | Feb.–June and Sept.–Nov., Tues.–Sun. 10–6; July, Aug., Dec., and Jan., Tues.–Sun. 9–1:30. Last entry 45 mins before closing.

Certosa (Carthusian monastery).
The main draw in Pavia is the Certosa, 9 km (5½ miles) north of the city center. Its elaborate façade shows the same relish for ornamentation as the Duomo in Milan. The Certosa’s extravagant grandeur was due in part to the plan to have it house the tombs of the family of the first duke of Milan, Galeazzo Visconti III (who died during a plague, at age 49, in 1402). The best marble was used, taken undoubtedly by barge from the quarries of Carrara, roughly 240 km (150 miles) away. Though the floor plan may be Gothic—a cross shape divided into a series of squares—the gorgeous fabric that rises above it is triumphantly Renaissance. On the façade, in the lower frieze, are medallions of Roman emperors and Eastern monarchs; above them are low reliefs of scenes from the life of Christ and from the career of Galeazzo Visconti III.

The first duke was the only Visconti to be interred here, and not until some 75 years after his death, in a tomb designed by Gian Cristoforo Romano. Look for it in the right transept. In the left transept is a more appealing tomb—that of a rather stern middle-aged man and a beautiful young woman. The man is Ludovico il Moro Sforza, seventh duke of Milan, who commissioned Leonardo to paint The Last Supper. The woman is Ludovico’s wife, Beatrice d’Este (1475–97), one of the most celebrated women of her day, the embodiment of brains, culture, birth, and beauty. Married when he was 40 and she was 16, they had enjoyed six years together when she died while delivering a stillborn child. Ludovico commissioned the sculptor Cristoforo Solari to design a joint tomb for the high altar of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan. Originally much larger, the tomb for some years occupied the honored place as planned. Then, for reasons that are still mysterious, the Dominican monks sold the tomb to their Carthusian brothers to the south. Sadly, part of the tomb and its remains were lost. | Certosa, Località Monumento 4, 9 km (5½ miles) north of Pavia | 27012 | 0382/925613 | www.comune.pv.it/certosadipavia | Donations accepted | May–Aug., Tues.–Sun. 9–11:30 and 2:30–6; Apr. and Sept., Tues.–Sun. 9–11:30 and 2:30–5:30; Mar. and Oct., Tues.–Sun. 9–11:30 and 2:30–5; Nov.–Feb., Tues.–Sun. 9–11 and 2:30–4:30.

San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro.
In the Romanesque church of San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro you can visit the tomb of Christianity’s most celebrated convert, Saint Augustine, housed in an intricately carved, Gothic, white marble ark on the high altar. | San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro 2 | 27100 | 0382/303036 | santagostinopavia.wordpress.com | Daily 7–noon and 3–7. Mass: Mon.–Sat. 9 and 6:30; Sun. 9, 11, and 6:30.

Where to Eat in Pavia

Locanda Vecchia Pavia al Mulino.
$$$ | NORTHERN ITALIAN | At this sophisticated Art Nouveau restaurant 150 yards from the Certosa you can find creative versions of traditional regional cuisine, including risotto alla certosina (with sturgeon eggs, frogs’ legs, and river shrimp). Casoncelli (stuffed pasta), petto d’anatra (duck breast), and veal cutlet alla Milanese are done with style, as are the imaginative seafood dishes. There’s a veranda open in summer with a view of the Certosa. | Average cost: €50 | Via al Monumento 5, | Certosa | 27012 | 0382/925894 | www.vecchiapaviaalmulino.it | Reservations essential | Apr.–Oct., Mon. and closed for lunch Tues.; Nov.–Mar., no lunch Mon., closed Sun.

Cremona

104 km (65 miles) east of Pavia, 106 km (66 miles) southeast of Milan.

Getting Here

By car from Milan, start out on the A1 Autostrada and switch to A21 at Piacenza; the drive is 100 km (62 miles) and lasts about 1½ hours. From Pavia, take SS617 to A21; the trip is 70 km (44 miles) and lasts about 1¼ hours. By train, Cremona is about an hour from Milan and 1½ hours from Desenzano, near Sirmione on Lake Garda.

Visitor Information

Cremona Tourism Office.
Piazza del Comune 5 | 26100 | 0372/406391 | www.turismocremona.it | Daily 9:30–1 and 2–5; July and Aug., closed Sun. afternoon.

Exploring Cremona

Cremona is where the world’s best violins are made. Andrea Amati (1510–80) invented the modern instrument here in the 16th century. Though cognoscenti continue to revere the Amati name, it was an apprentice of Amati’s nephew for whom the fates had reserved wide and lasting fame. In a career that spanned an incredible 68 years, Antonio Stradivari (1644–1737) made more than 1,200 instruments—including violas, cellos, harps, guitars, and mandolins, in addition to his fabled violins. Labeled simply with a small printed slip reading “Antonius stradivarius cremonensis. faciebat anno,” followed by the date inserted in a neat italic hand, they remain the most coveted, most expensive stringed instruments in the world.

Strolling about this quiet, medium-size city, you can’t help noting that violin making continues to flourish. There are, in fact, more than 50 liutai, many of them graduates of the Scuola Internazionale di Liuteria (International School of Violin Making). You’re usually welcome in these ateliers, where traditional craftsmanship reigns supreme, especially if you’re contemplating the acquisition of your own instrument; the tourist office can provide addresses.

Cremona’s other claim to fame is torrone (nougat), which is said to have been created here in honor of the marriage of Bianca Maria Visconti and Francesco Sforza, which took place in October 1441. The new confection, originally prepared by heating almonds, egg whites, and honey over low heat, and shaped and named after the city’s tower, was created in symbolic celebration. The annual Festa del Torrone is held in the main piazza on the third Sunday in October.

Quick Bites: Pasticceria Dondeo. Prepare to visit the sites of Cremona or wait for the next train at the Pasticceria Dondeo, visible from and just to the right of the station. Dating back to 1912, this is one of Cremona’s oldest and most beautiful Art Nouveau café and pastry shops. The fresh zabaglione and beignets are heaven. | Via Alghieri Dante 38 | 26100 | 0372/21224.

Piazza del Comune.
The Piazza del Comune, surrounded by the Duomo, tower, baptistery, and city hall, is distinctive and harmonious: the combination of old brick, rose- and cream-color marble, terra-cotta, and old copper roofs brings Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance together with unusual success. The city’s collection of stringed treasures is on display: a viola and five violins, including the golden-orange “Il Cremonese 1715” Stradivarius. | Piazza del Comune 8 | 26100 | 0372/803618 | www.musei.comune.cremona.it | Violin collection €6 | Tues.–Sat. 9–6, Sun. 10–6.

Torrazzo (Big Tower).
Dominating Piazza del Comune is the Torrazzo, the city’s symbol and perhaps the tallest campanile in Italy, visible for a considerable distance across the Po Plain. It’s open to visitors, but in winter hours fluctuate depending on the weather. The tower’s astronomical clock is the 1583 original. | Piazza del Comune | 26100 | 0372/495029 | €6.50 | Tues.–Sun. 10–1 and 2:30–6.

Duomo.
Cremona’s Romanesque Duomo was consecrated in 1190. Here you can find the beautiful Story of the Virgin Mary and the Passion of Christ, the central fresco of an extraordinary cycle commissioned in 1514 and featuring the work of local artists, including Boccaccio Boccanccino, Giovanni Francesco Bembo, and Altobello Melone. | Piazza del Comune | 26100 | 0372/495011 | Weekdays 8–noon and 3:30–7.

No. 1 Piazza Roma.
Legendary violin maker Antonio Stradivari lived, worked, and died near the verdant square at No. 1 Piazza Roma. According to local lore, Stradivari kept each instrument in his bedroom for a month before varnishing it, imparting part of his soul before sealing and sending it out into the world. In the center of the park is Stradivari’s grave, marked by a simple tombstone.

Museo Stradivariano (Stradivarius Museum).
The Museo Stradivariano in Palazzo Affaitati houses a collection of antique and modern instruments and informative exhibits of Stradivari’s paper patterns, wooden models, and various tools. | Via Ugolani Dati 4 | 26100 | 0372/803622 | €7 | Tues.–Sat. 9–6, Sun. 10–6.

Where to Eat in Cremona

La Sosta.
$ | NORTHERN ITALIAN | This traditional restaurant looks to the 16th century for culinary inspiration, following a time-tested recipe for a favored first course, gnocchi Vecchia Cremona. The homemade salami is also excellent. To finish off the evening, try the semifreddo al torroncino (chilled almond cake) and a dessert wine. | Average cost: €25 | Via Sicardo 9 | 26100 | 0372/456656 | www.osterialasosta.it | Closed Mon. and 3 wks in Aug. No dinner Sun.

Where to Stay in Cremona

Delle Arti Design Hotel.
$$ | HOTEL | The name fits at this central hotel with elegant modern interiors and eclectic designer furniture. The contemporary feel provides a nice contrast to the surrounding historic center. Pros: ultramodern, industrial design; friendly staff; lots of amenities. Cons: probably too contemporary for those seeking traditional Italy. TripAdvisor: “fantastic location,” “very impressive,” “pleasant staff.” | Rooms from: €169 | Via Bonomelli 8 | 26100 | 0372/23131 | www.dellearti.com | 33 rooms, 3 suites | Closed Aug. 5–29 and late Dec. | Breakfast.

Hotel Impero.
$ | HOTEL | This comfortable, modern hotel is well equipped to satisfy both leisure and business travelers. Some rooms overlook the piazza. The Impero makes a convenient base for those wisely disinclined to navigate old Cremona by car. Pros: highly professional staff; quiet rooms. Cons: rooms may seem a little out of style for some. TripAdvisor: “peaceful and elegant,” “great location,” “lovely rooms.” | Rooms from: €120 | Piazza della Pace 21 | 26100 | 0372/413013 | www.hotelimpero.cr.it | 53 rooms | Breakfast.

Shopping in Cremona

Sperlari.
For Cremona’s specialty nougat, visit famed Sperlari. In addition to nougat, Cremona’s best mostarda (a condiment made from preserved fruit served with meat and cheese) has been sold from this handsome shop since 1836; Sperlari and parent company Fieschi have grown into a confectionary empire. Look for the historical product display in the back. | Via Solferino 25 | 26100 | 0372/233644 | www.fieschi1867.com.

Mantua

192 km (119 miles) southeast of Milan.

Getting Here

Mantua is 5 km (3 miles) west of the A22 Autostrada. The drive from Milan, following A4 to A22, takes a little more than two hours. The drive from Cremona, along SS10, is 1¼ hours. Most trains arrive in just under two hours from Milan, depending on the type of service, and about 1½ hours from Desenzano, near Sirmione on Lake Garda, via Verona.

Visitor Information

Exploring Mantua

Mantua stands tallest among the ancient walled cities of the Po Plain. Its fortifications are circled on three sides by the passing Mincio River, which long provided Mantua with protection, fish, and a steady stream of river tolls as it meandered from Lake Garda to join the Po. It may not be flashy or dramatic, but Mantua’s beauty is subtle and deep, hiding a rich trove of artistic, architectural, and cultural gems beneath its slightly somber façade.

Although Mantua first came to prominence in Roman times as the home of Virgil, its grand monuments date from the glory years of the Gonzaga dynasty. From 1328 until the Austrian Habsburgs sacked the city in 1708, the dukes and marquesses of the Gonzaga clan reigned over a wealthy independent commune, and the arts thrived in the relative peace of that period. Raphael’s star pupil Andrea Mantegna, who served as court painter for 50 years, was the best known of a succession of artists and architects who served Mantua through the years, and some of his finest work, including his only surviving fresco cycle, can be seen here. Giulio Romano (circa 1499–1546), Mantegna’s apprentice, built his masterpiece, Palazzo Te, on an island in the river. Leon Battista Alberti (1404–72), who designed two impressive churches in Mantua, was widely emulated later in the Renaissance.

Fodor’s Choice | Palazzo Ducale.
The 500-room Palazzo Ducale, the palace that dominates the skyline, was built for the Gonzaga family. Unfortunately, as the Gonzaga dynasty waned in power and prestige, much of the art within the castle was sold or stolen. The highlight is the Camera Degli Sposi—literally, the “Chamber of the Wedded Couple”—where Duke Ludovico and his wife held court. Mantegna painted it over a nine-year period at the height of his power, finishing at age 44. He made a startling advance in painting by organizing the picture plane in a way that systematically mimics the experience of human vision. Even now, more than five centuries later, you can sense the excitement of a mature artist, fully aware of the great importance of his painting, expressing his vision with a masterly, joyous confidence. The circular trompe l’oeil around the vaulted ceiling is famous for the many details that attest to Mantegna’s greatness: the three-dimensional quality of the seven Caesars (the Gonzagas saw themselves as successors to the Roman emperors and paid homage to classical culture throughout the palazzo); the self-portrait of Mantegna (in purple, on the right side of the western fresco); and the dwarf peering out from behind the dress of Ludovico’s wife (on the northern fresco). Only 20 people at a time are allowed in the Camera Degli Sposi, and only for 10 minutes at a time. Read about the room before you enter so that you can spend your time looking up. | Piazza Sordello 40 | 46100 | 0376/224832 | €6.50, additional €1 for reservation to see Camera Degli Sposi.

Tourism Office. Walk-up visitors to Mantua’s Palazzo Ducale may take a fast-paced guided tour conducted in Italian; signs in each room provide explanations in English. Audio guides are available for €4. Alternatively, call the tourism office to arrange for English-language tours. | 0376/432432 | Tues.–Sun. 8:30–7; last entry at 6:30.

Casa di Andrea Mantegna.
Serious Mantegna aficionados will want to visit the Casa di Andrea Mantegna, designed by the artist himself and built around an intriguing circular courtyard, which is usually open to view. The exterior is interesting for its unusual design, and the interior, with its hidden frescoes, can be seen by appointment or during occasional art exhibitions. Prices vary depending on the exhibition. | Via Acerbi 47 | 46100 | 0376/360506 | www.casadelmantegna.it | Mon.–Sun. 8–12 and 3–7.

Sant’Andrea.
Mantegna’s tomb is in the first chapel to the left in the basilica of Sant’Andrea, most of which was built in 1472. The current structure, a masterwork by the architect Alberti, is the third built on this spot to house the relic of the Precious Blood. The crypt holds two reliquaries containing earth believed to be soaked in the blood of Christ, brought to Mantua by Longinus, the soldier who pierced his side. They are displayed only on Good Friday. | Piazza di Mantegna | 46100 | 0376/328504 | Free, €1 to visit the crypt | Mon.–Sun. 8–noon and 3 –7.

Palazzo Te.
Palazzo Te is one of the greatest of all Renaissance palaces, built between 1525 and 1535 by Federigo II Gonzaga. It is the mannerist masterpiece of artist-architect Giulio Romano, who created a pavilion where the strict rules of courtly behavior could be relaxed for libertine pastimes. Romano’s purposeful breaks with classical tradition are lighthearted and unprecedented. For example, note the “slipping” triglyphs along the upper edge of the inside courtyard. Two highlights are the Camera di Amore e Psiche (Room of Cupid and Psyche) that depicts a wedding set among lounging nymphs, frolicking satyrs, and even a camel and an elephant; and the gasp-producing Camera dei Giganti (Room of the Giants) that shows Jupiter expelling the Titans from Mount Olympus. The scale of the work is overwhelming; the floor-to-ceiling work completely envelops the viewer. The room’s rounded corners, and the river rock covering the original floor, were meant to give it a cavelike feeling. It is a “whisper chamber” in which words softly uttered in one corner can be heard in the opposite one. For fun, note the graffiti from as far back as the 17th century. | Viale Te 13 | 46100 | 0376/323266 | www.centropalazzote.it | €8 | Tues.–Sun. 9–6; Mon. 1–6; last entry at 5:30.

Where to Eat in Mantua

Ambasciata.
$$$$ | NORTHERN ITALIAN | Heralded by food critics the world over as one of Italy’s finest restaurants, Ambasciata (Italian for “embassy”) takes elegance and service to new levels. Chef Romano Tamani, who is co-owner with his brother Francesco, makes frequent appearances abroad but is at home in tiny Quistello, 20 km (12 miles) southeast of Mantua. He offers those willing to make the trek (and pay the bill) an ever-changing array of superlative creations such as timballo di lasagne verdi con petto di piccione sauté alla crème de Cassis (green lasagna with breast of pigeon and red currant). | Average cost: €80 | Via Martiri di Belfiore 33, | Quistello | 46026 | 0376/619169 | www.ristoranteambasciata.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon., Jan. 1–15, and 2 weeks in Aug. No dinner Sun.

Ristorante Pavesi.
$ | ITALIAN | Locals have been coming to this central restaurant for delicious food at reasonable prices since 1918. The menu changes every other month; homemade pasta is always a good bet. In warmer months you can dine on Mantua’s handsome main square. | Average cost: €15 | Piazza delle Erbe 13 | 46100 | 0376/323627 | www.ristorantepavesi.com | Closed Tues. from Jan. 6–14.

Getting Around the Lakes

Frequent daily ferry and hydrofoil services link the lakeside towns and villages. Residents take them to get to work and school, while visitors use them for exploring the area. There are also special round-trip excursions, some with (optional) dining service on board.

To get around the lakes by car, you have to follow secondary roads—often of great beauty. S572 follows the southern and western shores of Lake Garda, SS45b edges the northernmost section of the western shore, and S249 runs along the eastern shore. Around Lake Como, follow S340 along the western shore, S36 on the eastern shore, and S583 on the lower arms. S33 and S34 trace the western shore of Lake Maggiore. Although the roads around the lake can be beautiful, they’re full of harrowing twists and turns, making for a slow, challenging drive—oftentimes with an Italian speedracer on your tail.

There’s regular bus service between the small towns on the lakes. It’s less convenient than going by boat or by car, and it’s used primarily by locals (particularly schoolchildren), but sightseers can use it as well. The bus service around Lake Garda serves mostly towns on the western shore.

SIA.
Call the bus operator SIA for information. | 030/44061 | www.sia-autoservizi.it.

Where to Stay in Mantua

Casa Poli.
$$ | HOTEL | Refreshing, minimalist influences, creative touches (like the room number projected onto the hall floor) and attention to detail create a welcoming ambience in this contemporary hotel. Natural fabrics add to the relaxed feel; common areas include a reading room and an indoor garden. Pros: attentive staff; tasteful, unusual decor; families welcome. Cons: although convenient, not in the absolute center of the city. TripAdvisor: “comfortable and quiet,” “true care,” “great service and style.” | Rooms from: €180 | Corso Garibaldi 32 | 46100 | 0376/288170 | www.hotelcasapoli.it | 27 rooms | Breakfast.

Hotel Rechigi.
$$ | HOTEL | With its white marble lobby and silver-and-taupe lounge, this modern hotel and its collection of contemporary art offer quiet refuge from the busy streets in the center of Mantua, only a block away. Rooms are unpretentious and comfortable, and there’s an outdoor garden for breakfast during the warmer months. Three of the suites include spas. Pros: quiet and central with friendly service. Cons: sparse design might leave some guests cold. TripAdvisor: “lovely,” “good location,” “the perfect hotel in Mantua.” | Rooms from: €145 | Via Pier Fortunato Calvi 30 | 46100 | 059/283600 | www.rechigi.com | 72 rooms, 3 suites | No meals.

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