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Lerici | La Spezia | Portovenere | Hiking the Cinque Terre | Levanto | Chiavari | Santa Margherita Ligure | Portofino | Camogli

East of Genoa lies the Riviera di Levante (Riviera of the Rising Sun). It has a more raw, unpolished side to it than the Riviera di Ponente, and its stretches of rugged coastline are dotted with fishing villages. Around every turn of this area’s twisting roads the hills plummet sharply to the sea, forming deep, hidden bays and coves. Beaches on this coast tend to be rocky, backed by spectacular sheer cliffs. (Yet there are some rather lovely sandy beaches in Lerici, Monterosso, Levanto, and Paraggi.) It’s also home to one of Europe’s well-known playgrounds for the rich and famous, the inlet of Portofino.

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Lerici

106 km (66 miles) southeast of Genoa, 65 km (40 miles) west of Lucca.

Getting Here

By car, Lerici is less than a 10-minute drive west from the A12 with plenty of blue signs indicating the way. There’s a large pay-parking lot about a 10-minute walk along the seaside promenade from the center. By train, the closest station is either Sarzana (10-minute drive) or La Spezia Centrale (20-minute drive) on the main north–south line between Genoa and Pisa.

Visitor Information

Lerici Tourism Office.
Via Biaggini 6 | 19032 | 0187/967164 | www.aptcinqueterre.sp.it.

Exploring Lerici

Near Liguria’s border with Tuscany, this colorful village dates to the 1200s. It’s set on a magnificent coastline of gray cliffs and surrounded by a national park of pine forests and olive trees. The waterfront piazza is filled with deceiving trompe-l’oeil frescoes, and seaside cafés line its charming little harbor that holds boats of all sizes.

There are several white beaches and bathing establishments dotting the two-km (one-mile) walk along the bay from the village center to nearby San Terenzo. It was here that the writer and poet Percy Shelley spent some of his happiest days. After his death in 1822, the bay was renamed the Golfo dei Poeti (Gulf of Poets) in his and Lord Byron’s honor.

With its proximity to the autostrada, Lerici makes a great base for exploring not only the more famous attractions of the area, but also the tiny hill towns and walled villages that dot the hinterlands.

Castello di Lerici.
Its promontory is dominated by the 13th-century Castello di Lerici. The Pisan castle now houses a museum of paleontology. | Piazza S. Giorgio 1 | 19032 | 0187/969042 | www.castellodilerici.it | €5 | Mar. 16–June, Sept.–Oct. 19, and Dec. 26–Jan. 6, Tues.–Sun. 10:30–12:30 and 2:30–5:30; July and Aug., daily 10:30–12:30 and 6:30–midnight; Oct. 20–Dec. 23 and Jan. 7–Mar. 15, Tues.–Fri. 10:30–12:30, weekends 10:30–12:30 and 2:30–5:30.

Where to Eat in Lerici

Bonta Nascoste.
$ | ITALIAN | In the local dialect, bonta nascoste means “hidden goodness,” a reference to this charming restaurant’s back-alleyway location and consistently good food, including fresh pasta and local fish dishes. It also serves a handful of delicious meat choices. There are only eight tables (and a couple more outside in summer), so reserve ahead. | Average cost: €30 | Via Cavour 52 | 19032 | 0187/965500 | www.bontanascoste.it | Reservations essential | Closed Tues. and 2 wks in Nov. and June.

Miranda.
$$$ | LIGURIAN | Perched amid the clustered old houses in seaside Tellaro, 4 km (2½ miles) southeast of Lerici, this small family-run restaurant has become a gourmet’s destination because of chef Angelo Cabani’s imaginative Ligurian cooking. His seafood menu changes daily, but might include shrimp and lobster salad with fennel, or risotto with asparagus and shrimp. This pretty building is also a small inn with seven charming and comfortable rooms ($$). | Average cost: €60 | Via Fiascherino 92 | Tellaro | 19030 | 0187/964012 | www.miranda1959.com | Closed Mon. and Nov. and Jan.

Osteria di Redarca.
$ | LIGURIAN | Within the pine forest of the Montemarcello National Park, this osteria (a simple, informal restaurant) serves some of the best homemade pastas in the area. It also offers a “surf-and-turf”–type menu, with abundant cooked-to-perfection fish platters and succulent meat dishes. The location may not be seaside, but the setting and the food are both a treat. | Average cost: €45 | Rocchetta Località Redarca 6 | 19032 | 0187/966140 | Closed Wed. and 2 wks in Jan.

Where to Stay in Lerici

Doria Park.
$ | HOTEL | Nestled between olive-tree hills and the village center, with views over the harbor and bay beyond, the Doria has the best location in Lerici. Erminio and Claudia Beghé have created a welcoming and relaxing atmosphere for their guests. The junior suites have larger terraces and Jacuzzi tubs, but the sea-view rooms are a real value. A bountiful and delicious breakfast is served until noon. The first-rate restaurant specializes in fresh seafood. Pros: sea views; comfortable beds; not far from the main piazza and harbor. Cons: many stairs, including several sets that can be challenging for people with weak knees or heavy bags. TripAdvisor: “very friendly staff,” “great for short and long stays,” “lovely view.” | Rooms from: €125 | Via Doria 2 | 19032 | 0187/967124 | www.doriaparkhotel.it | 48 rooms, 5 suites | Breakfast.

Florida.
$ | HOTEL | This seafront, family-run establishment has a sunny, welcoming facade and a friendly staff inside. Extras such as Wi-Fi and sea-view balconies make this reasonably priced hotel well worth the euros. Lounge in one of the deck chairs on the rooftop solarium or enjoy the nearby tennis courts, public outdoor pool, and golf course. Pros: beachfront location; bay views. Cons: small rooms; beach across the street can be noisy, especially in summer. TripAdvisor: “pretty and comfortable,” “the perfect spot in a dream town,” “great views.” | Rooms from: €190 | Lungomare Biaggini 35 | 19032 | 0187/967332 | www.hotelflorida.it | 40 rooms | Closed approximately Dec.–Feb. | Breakfast.

Piccolo Hotel del Lido.
$$ | HOTEL | Although the 12 waterfront rooms at this boutique hotel are not large, they are well equipped and tastefully decorated. Bathrooms are large by Italian standards, and each room has a private rooftop terrace where you can sunbathe or sip a glass of local wine while watching the sunset. Pros: beachfront; great views; large bathrooms. Cons: limited parking; adjacent beach club can get noisy by day during high season. TripAdvisor: “fantastic location,” “excellent hotel,” “bliss on the beach.” | Rooms from: €210 | Lungomare Biaggini 24 | 19032 | 0187/968159 | www.locandadellido.it | 12 rooms | Closed late Oct.–Easter | Breakfast.

En Route: Ten minutes inland from Lerici is the medieval village of Sarzana, designed by the military leader Castruccio Castracani, who also designed Lucca. Here you’ll find some of the most authentic and well-restored palazzos in Liguria. Its pedestrians-only cobblestone streets bustling with people, fine boutiques, and packed cafés are perfect for a passeggiata (evening stroll). For three weeks in August it hosts a lively antiques market with great buys and opportunities for people-watching.

La Spezia

11 km (7 miles) northwest of Lerici, 103 km (64 miles) southeast of Genoa.

Getting Here

By car, take La Spezia exit off the A12. La Spezia Centrale train station is on the main north–south railway line between Genoa and Pisa.

Visitor Information

La Spezia Tourism Office.
Via Mazzini 45 | 19100 | 0187/770900 | turismocultura.spezianet.it.

Exploring La Spezia

La Spezia is sometimes thought of as nothing but a large, industrialized naval port en route to the Cinque Terre and Portovenere, but it does possess some charm, and it gives you a look at a less tourist-focused part of the Riviera. Its palm-lined promenade, fertile citrus parks, renovated Liberty-style palazzos, and colorful balcony-lined streets make parts of La Spezia surprisingly beautiful. On Monday through Saturday mornings you can stroll through the fresh fish, produce, and local-cheese stalls at the outdoor market on Piazza Cavour, and on Friday take part in the lively flea market on Via Garibaldo.

Castel San Giorgio.
The remains of the massive 13th-century Castel San Giorgio now house a small museum dedicated to local archaeology. | Via XX Settembre | 0187/751142 | €5 | June–Aug., Wed.–Mon. 9:30–12:30 and 5–8; Apr., May, and Sept., Wed.–Mon. 9:30–12:30 and 3–8; Oct.–Mar., Wed.–Mon. 9:30–12:30 and 2–5.

Where to Eat in La Spezia

La Pia.
$ | PIZZA | Considered an institution in La Spezia, this farinateria and pizzeria dates back to 1887. During the lunch hour you will find a line out the door while inside—and on the patio in summer—locals munch on farinata, a chickpea pancake that’s a Ligurian delicacy, and on thick-crust pizzas served hot out of the wood-burning oven. | Average cost: €15 | Via Magenta 12 | 19100 | 0187/739999 | Closed Wed. and 2 wks in Aug. and Nov.

Portovenere

12 km (7 miles) south of La Spezia, 114 km (70 miles) southeast of Genoa.

Getting Here

By car from the port city of La Spezia, follow the blue signs for Portovenere. It’s about a 20-minute winding drive along the sea through small fishing villages. From the La Spezia train station you can hire a taxi for about €30. By bus from Via Garibaldi in La Spezia (a 10-minute walk from the train station) it takes 20 minutes.

Visitor Information

Portovenere doesn’t have a tourist office; you get information at the Comune (Town Hall) or at the tourist office in La Spezia Centrale train station.

Exploring Portovenere

The colorful façades and pedestrians-only calata (promenade) make Portovenere a quintessential Ligurian seaside village. Its tall, thin terratetto (houses) date from as far back as the 11th century and are connected in a wall-like formation to protect against attacks by the Pisans and local pirates. At the tip of the peninsula, with a dramatic position over the sea, stands the commanding San Pietro church. The caruggi (alley-like passageways) lead to an array of charming shops, homes, and gardens.

Grotto Arpaia.
Lord Byron (1788–1824) is said to have written Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage in Portovenere. Near the entrance to the huge, strange Grotto Arpaia, at the base of the sea-swept cliff, is a plaque recounting the poet’s strength and courage as he swam across the gulf to the village of San Terenzo, near Lerici, to visit his friend Shelley (1792–1822).

San Pietro.
San Pietro, a 13th-century Gothic church, is built on the site of an ancient pagan shrine, on a formidable solid mass of rock above the Grotto Arpaia. With its black-and-white-striped exterior, it is a landmark recognizable from far out at sea. There’s a spectacular view of the Cinque Terre coastline from the front porch of the church. | Waterfront promenade | No phone | Daily 9–6.

Where to Eat in Portovenere

Bacicio.
$ | LIGURIAN | Tucked away on Portovenere’s main caruggio, this enoteca (wine bar) and antipasto bar is popular with locals and slowly being discovered by tourists looking for good, local dishes. The owner whips up some wonderful finger food—including crostini (grilled bread) with fresh anchovies, and smoked herring with spicy orange salsa—and offers a robust list of local wines. He also designed the entire place, right down to the tables and chairs made from anchors and pieces of old boats. | Average cost: €18 | Via Cappellini 17 | 19025 | 0187/792054 | Reservations not accepted | No credit cards | Closed Wed., Jan., and Nov.

Le Bocche.
$$$$ | LIGURIAN | At the end of the Portovenere promontory in the shadow of San Pietro, this is the village’s most exclusive and possibly most delicious restaurant. The menu consists of only the freshest in-season fish, prepared with a creative touch, such as marinated tuna encrusted with pistachios or asparagus soup with small fillets of sole. The setting is romantic and unique, as you feel almost immersed in the Mediterranean. The dinner menu is quite expensive (as is the lengthy wine list), but you can get a real deal at lunch with a limited but equally good menu at lower prices. | Average cost: €70 | Calata Doria 102 | 19025 | 0187/790622 | www.lebocche.it | Closed Nov.–Feb.

Locanda Lorena.
$$$ | LIGURIAN | Across the small bay of Portovenere lies the rugged island of Palmaria. There is only one restaurant on the island, and here Iseo (aka Giuseppe), an accomplished chef, actually still does the cooking. Fresh pasta and local fish such as branzino (sea bass) are headliners at this fun dining spot with lovely views looking back toward Portovenere. To get here, take the restaurant’s free speedboat from the Portovenere jetty. | Average cost: €50 | Palmaria Island | 19025 | 0187/792370 | www.locandalorena.com | Closed Nov.

Where to Stay in Portovenere

Hotel Belvedere.
$ | HOTEL | This sunny Liberty-style building has simply furnished guest rooms that don’t break the bank in what can be an expensive destination. The location faces the bay of Portovenere, and front rooms have lovely views of Palmaria Island and the Gulf of Poets. Pros: reasonably priced rooms with water views. Cons: parts of the hotel could use a makeover; limited parking. TripAdvisor: “perfect accommodations,” “gorgeous views,” “friendly staff.” | Rooms from: €160 | Via G. Garibaldi 26 | 19025 | 0187/790608 | www.belvedereportovenere.it | 19 rooms | Closed Nov.–mid-Mar. | Breakfast.

Hiking the Cinque Terre

Backpackers “discovered” the Cinque Terre in the 1970s, and its popularity has been growing ever since. Despite summer crowds, much of the original appeal is intact. Each town has maintained its own distinct charm, and views from the trails in between are as breathtaking as ever. Hiking is the most popular way to experience the Cinque Terre, and Trail No. 2, the Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail), is the most traveled path. You need a full day to cover the entire trail: it’s approximately 13 km (8 miles) in length, takes you to all five villages, and requires about five hours, not including stops, to complete. The best approach is to start at the easternmost town of Riomaggiore and warm up your legs on the easiest segment of the trail. As you work your way west, the hike gets progressively more demanding. For a less-strenuous experience, you can choose to skip a leg or two and take the ferry (which provides its own beautiful views) or the inland train running between the towns instead. Trail No. 2 is just one of a network of trails crisscrossing the hills. If you’re a dedicated hiker, spend a few nights and try some of the other routes. Trail No. 1, the Sentiero Rosso (Red Trail), climbs from Portovenere (east of Riomaggiore) and returns to the sea at Levanto (west of Monterosso al Mare). To hike its length takes from 9 to 12 hours; the ridge-top trail provides spectacular views from high above the villages, each of which can be reached via a steep path. Other shorter trails go from the villages up into the hills, some leading to religious sanctuaries. Trail No. 9, for example, starts from the old section of Monterosso and ends at the Madonna di Soviore Sanctuary. Entrance tickets for use of the trails are available at ticket booths located at the start of each section of Trail No. 2, and at information offices in the Levanto, Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore, and La Spezia train stations. The local train on the Genoa–La Spezia line stops at each Cinque Terre village, and runs approximately every 30 minutes. Tickets for each leg of the journey (€1.30) are available at the five train stations. In Corniglia, the only one of the Cinque Terre that isn’t at sea level, a shuttle service (€1) is provided for those who don’t wish to climb (or descend) the hundred or so steps that link the train station with the cliff-top town. Along the Cinque Terre coast two ferry lines operate. From June to September, Golfo Paradiso runs from Genoa and Camogli to Monterosso al Mare and Vernazza. The smaller but more frequent Navigazione Golfo dei Poeti stops at each village from Portovenere (east of Riomaggiore) to Monterosso, with the exception of Corniglia, four times a day. A one-day ticket costs €22. The ideal times to see the Cinque Terre are September and May, when the weather is mild and the summer tourist season isn’t in full swing.

Riomaggiore.
At the eastern end of the Cinque Terre, Riomaggiore is built into a river gorge (thus the name, which means “river major”) and is easily accessible from La Spezia by train or car. It has a tiny harbor protected by large slabs of alabaster and marble, which serve as tanning beds for sunbathers, as well as being the site of several outdoor cafés with fine views. According to legend, the settlement of Riomaggiore dates as far back as the 8th century, when Greek religious refugees came here to escape persecution by the Byzantine emperor. | Stazione Ferroviaria | Riomaggiore | 19017 | 0187/762287 | www.aptcinqueterre.sp.it and www.parconazionale5terre.it.

Manarola.
The enchanting pastel houses of Manarola spill down a steep hill overlooking a spectacular turquoise swimming cove and a bustling harbor. The whole town is built on black rock. Above the town, ancient terraces still protect abundant vineyards and olive trees. This village is the center of the wine and olive-oil production of the region, and its streets are lined with shops selling local products. | www.parconazionale5terre.it.

Corniglia.
The buildings, narrow lanes, and stairways of Corniglia are strung together amid vineyards high on the cliffs; on a clear day views of the entire coastal strip are excellent. The high perch and lack of harbor make this farming community the most remote of the Cinque Terre. | www.parconazionale5terre.it.

San Pietro. On a pretty pastel square sits the 14th-century church of San Pietro. The rose window of marble imported from Carrara is impressive, particularly considering the work required to get it here. | Main Sq. | Corniglia | 0187/920633 | Mon.–Sat. 9–1 and 4–6, Sun. 10–noon.

Vernazza.
With its narrow streets and small squares, Vernazza is arguably the most charming of the five towns. Because it has the best access to the sea, it became wealthier than its neighbors—as evidenced by the elaborate arcades, loggias, and marblework. The village’s pink, slate-roof houses and colorful squares contrast with the remains of the medieval fort and castle, including two towers, in the Old Town. The Romans first inhabited this rocky spit of land in the 1st century. Today Vernazza has a fairly lively social scene. It’s a great place to refuel with a hearty seafood lunch or linger in a café between links of the hike on Trail No. 2. | Vernazza | www.aptcinqueterre.sp.it.

Monterosso al Mare.
Beautiful beaches, rugged cliffs, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and plentiful small hotels and restaurants make Monterosso al Mare, the largest of the Cinque Terre villages (population 1,730), the busiest in midsummer. The village center bustles high on a hillside. Below, connected by stone steps, are the port and seaside promenade, where there are boats for hire. The medieval tower, Aurora, on the hills of the Cappuccini, separates the ancient part of the village from the more modern part. The village is encircled by hills covered with vineyards and olive groves, and by a forest of scrubby bushes and small trees. Monterosso has the most festivals of the five villages, starting with the Lemon Feast on the Saturday preceding Ascension Sunday, followed by the Flower Festival of Corpus Christi, celebrated yearly on the second Sunday after Pentecost. During the afternoon, the streets and alleyways of the centro storico (historic center) are decorated with thousands of colorful flower petals set in beautiful designs that the evening procession passes over. Finally, the Salted Anchovy and Olive Oil Festival takes place each year during the second weekend of September. | Via Fegina 38 | Monterosso al Mare | 19016 | 0187/817506 | www.aptcinqueterre.sp.it and www.parconazionale5terre.it.

Market. Thursday, the market attracts mingled crowds of tourists and villagers from along the coast to shop for everything from pots, pans, and underwear to fruits, vegetables, and fish. Often a few stands sell local art and crafts, as well as olive oil and wine. | Old town center | Monterosso al Mare | Thurs. 8–1

Chiesa di San Francesco. Built in the 12th century, the Chiesa di San Francesco is a good example of the Ligurian Gothic style. Its distinctive black stripes and marble rose window make it one of the most photographed sites in the Cinque Terre. | Piazza Garibaldi | Monterosso al Mare | No phone | Free | Daily 9–1 and 4–7

Where to Eat and Stay

Riomaggiore

La Lanterna.
$ | LIGURIAN | Colorful chalkboards out in front of this small trattoria by the harbor list the day’s selection of fresh fish; the set-up might sound modest, but this is arguably the finest restaurant in the Cinque Terre. During the winter, Chef Massimo serves as a teacher at the Culinary Academy in Switzerland, and he always returns with new ideas for his menu. When available, the cozze ripiene (stuffed mussels) shouldn’t be missed. Other offerings may be a touch exotic, such as stingray with Ligurian herbs and white wine. | Average cost: €40 | Via San Giacomo 10 | Riomaggiore | 0187/920589 | Closed Jan. and 2 wks in Nov.

Manarola

Ca’ d’Andrean.
$ | HOTEL | If you want to stay in one of the less crowded Cinque Terre offerings, this tiny, simple hotel is one of your best options. White-tile floors cool off the rooms, some of which have balconies. In summer, breakfast, an optional extra at €6 per person, is served in a flower garden. Pros: quiet location; lovely garden. Cons: rooms are comfy, but basic. | Rooms from: €100 | Via Discovolo 101 | Manarola | 19010 | 0187/920040 | www.cadandrean.it | 10 rooms | No credit cards | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Dec.

Corniglia

Cecio.
$ | HOTEL | On the outskirts of Corniglia, many of the spotless rooms at the family-run Cecio have spectacular views of the town clinging to the cliffs above the bay. The same memorable vista can be enjoyed from the hotel’s restaurant, which serves inexpensive and well-prepared local seafood dishes. Try the delicious lasagna with pesto sauce as a first course. Pros: stunning views; good value. Cons: rooms are very basic; nearby bell tower may distract light sleepers. | Rooms from: €75 | Via Serra 58, toward Vernazza | Corniglia | 19010 | 0187/812043 | Fax0187/812138 | 12 rooms | Breakfast.

Vernazza

Gambero Rosso.
$ | LIGURIAN | Relax on Vernazza’s main square at this fine trattoria looking out at a church. Enjoy such delectable dishes as shrimp salad, vegetable torte, and squid-ink risotto. The creamy pesto, served atop spaghetti, is some of the best in the area. End your meal with Cinque Terre’s own sciacchetrà, a dessert wine served with semisweet biscotti. Don’t drink it out of the glass—dip the biscotti in the wine instead. | Average cost: €35 | Piazza Marconi 7 | Vernazza | 0187/812265 | www.ristorantegamberorosso.net | Closed Mon., Jan., and Feb.

La Malà.
$ | B&B/INN | A cut above other lodging options in the Cinque Terre, this family-run B&B has only four rooms, and they fill up quickly. The rooms are small but well equipped, with flat-screen TVs, a/c, marble showers, and comfortable bedding. Two of the rooms have sea views; the other two face the port of Vernazza. There’s a shared terrace literally suspended over the Mediterranean. Book early! Pros: clean, fresh-feeling rooms; attentive staff; oh, the views. Cons: there are some stairs involved. | Rooms from: €160 | Giovanni Battista 29 | Vernazza | 19018 | 334/2875718 | www.lamala.it | 4 rooms | Closed Jan. 10–Mar.

Monterosso al Mare

Enoteca Internazionale.
$ | WINE BAR | Located on the main street in centro, this wine bar offers a large variety of vintages, both local and from further afield, plus delicious light fare; its umbrella-covered patio is a perfect spot to recuperate after a day of hiking. The owner, Susanna, is a certified sommelier who’s always forthcoming with helpful suggestions on local wines. | Average cost: €20 | Via Roma 62 | Monterosso al Mare | 0187/817278 | Closed Tues. and Jan–Mar.

Miki.
$ | ITALIAN | Specialties here are anything involving seafood. The insalata di mare (seafood salad), with squid and fish, is more than tasty; so are the grilled fish and any pasta with seafood. If you’re in the mood for a pizza, you can order that as well. Miki has a beautiful little garden in the back, perfect for lunch on a sunny day. | Average cost: €45 | Via Fegina 104 | Monterosso al Mare | 0187/817608 | Closed Nov. and Dec. and Tues. Sept.–July.

Il Giardino Incantato.
$ | B&B/INN | This small B&B in the historic center of Monterosso oozes comfort and Old World charm. The building dates back to the 16th century, and still maintains its wood-beam ceiling and stone walls. Each room has been impeccably restored with modern amenities. Breakfast is served either in your room (on request) or in the lovely private garden under the lemon trees. The owner, Maria Pia, goes out of her way to make you feel at home, and whips up a fabulous frittata for breakfast. Pros: spacious rooms; gorgeous garden; excellent hosts. Cons: located towards the upper end of town; no views. | Rooms from: €170 | Via Mazzini 18 | Monterosso al Mare | 19016 | 0185/818315 | www.ilgiardinoincantato.net | 3 rooms, 1 junior suite.

Porto Roca.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Cinque Terre’s only “high-end” hotel is perched on the famous terraced cliffs, hovering over the magnificent sea below, and thankfully removed from the crowds. The hotel has an old-fashioned feel, but the large balconies and panoramic views make it all worth it. There’s also a nice restaurant serving well-prepared Ligurian cuisine, as well as a tranquil cliffside pool. Pros: unobstructed sea views; tranquil location. Cons: some of the rooms could use a revamp; back-facing rooms can be a bit dark. | Rooms from: €300 | Via Corone 1 | Monterosso al Mare | 19016 | 0187/817502 | Fax0187/817692 | www.portoroca.it | 39 rooms, 2 junior suites, 1 apartment | Nov.–Mar.

Ristorante Belforte.
$$ | ITALIAN | High above the sea in one of Vernazza’s remaining stone towers is this unique restaurant serving delicious Cinque Terre cuisine such as branzino sotto sale (sea bass cooked under salt), stuffed mussels, and insalata di polpo (octopus salad). The setting is magnificent, so try for an outdoor table. Reservations are a must. | Average cost: €40 | Via Guidoni 42 | Vernazza | 19018 | 0187/812222 | www.ristorantebelforte.it | Reservations essential | Tues., Nov.–Easter.

Levanto

8 km (5 miles) northwest of Monterosso al Mare, 60 km (36 miles) southeast of Genoa.

Getting Here

By car, take the Carodanno/Levanto exit off the A12 for 25 minutes to the town center. By train, Levanto is on the main north–south railway, one stop north of Monterosso.

Visitor Information

Levanto Tourism Office.
Piazza Mazzini 1 | 19015 | 0187/808125 | www.aptcinqueterre.sp.it.

Exploring Levanto

Tucked nicely between two promontories, Levanto offers an alternative and usually less-expensive base to explore the Cinque Terre and the Riviera di Levante. This town retains much of the typical Ligurian character with trompe-l’oeil frescoed villas and the olive tree–covered hills of the national park. Monterosso, one of the Cinque Terre villages, is a 5-minute train ride away.

Where to Stay in Levanto

La Giada del Mesco.
$$ | HOTEL | On Punto Mesco headland, this stone bed-and-breakfast has unobstructed vistas of the Mediterranean and Riviera coastline. Guest rooms are tastefully decorated and bright—all with sea views. Pros: great position; nice pool and sunning area. Cons: shuttle service is not always available; the 3½ km (1½ mile) into town is quite a walk, so you’ll want a car. TripAdvisor: “a hidden pearl,” “secluded and peaceful,” “incredibly beautiful.” | Rooms from: €170 | Via Mesco 16 | 19032 | 0187/802674 | www.lagiadadelmesco.it | 12 rooms | Closed mid-Nov.–Feb. | Breakfast.

Chiavari

46 km (29 miles) northwest of Levanto, 38 km (23 miles) southeast of Genoa.

Getting Here

By car, take the Chiavari exit off the A12. The Chiavari train station is located on the main north–south train line between Genoa and Pisa.

Visitor Information

Chiavari Tourism Office.
Corso Assaroti 1 | 16043 | 0185/325198 | www.turismoinliguria.it.

Exploring Chiavari

Chiavari is a fishing town (rather than village) of considerable character, with narrow, twisting streets and a good harbor. Chiavari’s citizens were intrepid explorers, and many emigrated to South America in the 19th century. The town boomed, thanks to the wealth of the returning voyagers, but Chiavari retains many medieval traces in its buildings.

Museo Archeologico.
In the town center, the Museo Archeologico displays objects from an 8th-century BC necropolis, or ancient cemetery, excavated nearby. | Palazzo Costaguta, Via Costaguta 4 Piazza Matteotti | 16043 | 0185/320829 | Free | Tues.–Sat. 9–1:15 and 2:30–5:30, and 4th Sun. of month 2–7:30.

Santa Margherita Ligure

60 km (37 miles) northwest of Levanto, 31 km (19 miles) southeast of Genoa.

Getting Here

By car, take the Rapallo exit off the A12 and follow the blue signs, about a 10-minute drive. The Santa Margherita Ligure train station is on the main north–south line between Genoa and Pisa.

Visitor Information

Santa Margherita Ligure Tourism Office.
Via XXV Aprile 2/B | 16038 | 0185/287485 | www.apttigullio.liguria.it.

Exploring Santa Margherita Ligure

A beautiful old resort town favored by well-to-do Italians, Santa Margherita Ligure has everything a Riviera playground should have—plenty of palm trees and attractive hotels, cafés, and a marina packed with yachts. Some of the older buildings here are still decorated on the outside with the trompe-l’oeil frescoes typical of this part of the Riviera. This is a pleasant, convenient base, which for many represents a perfect balance on the Italian Riviera: more spacious than the Cinque Terre; less glitzy than San Remo; more relaxing than Genoa and environs; and ideally situated for day trips, such as an excursion to Portofino.

Where to Eat in Santa Margherita Ligure

La Paranza.
$$$ | LIGURIAN | From the piles of tiny bianchetti (young sardines) in oil and lemon that are part of the antipasto di mare (of the sea), to the simple, perfectly grilled whole sole, fresh seafood in every shape and form is the specialty here. Mussels, clams, octopus, salmon, or whatever else is fresh that day is what’s on the menu. Locals say this is the town’s best restaurant, but if you’re looking for a stylish evening out, look elsewhere—La Paranza is about food, not fashion. It’s just off Santa Margherita’s port. | Average cost: €45 | Via Jacopo Ruffini 46 | 16038 | 0185/283686 | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Nov.

Fodor’s Choice | La Stalla dei Frati.
$$$ | LIGURIAN | The breathtaking, hilltop views of Santa Margherita from this villa-turned-restaurant are worth the harrowing 3-km (2-mile) drive northwest to get here from Santa Margherita’s port. Cesare Frati, your congenial host, is likely to tempt you with his homemade fettuccine ai frutti di mare (with seafood) followed by the pescato del giorno alla moda ligure (catch of the day baked Ligurian style, with potatoes, olives, and pine nuts) and a delightfully fresh lemon sorbet to complete the feast. | Average cost: €60 | Via G. Pino 27 | Nozarego | 16038 | 0185/289447 | www.ristorantelastalladeifrati.it | Closed Mon. and Nov.

Oca Bianca.
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | The menu at this small, excellent restaurant breaks away from the local norm—there is no seafood on offer. Meat dishes are the specialty, and choices may include mouthwatering preparations of lamb from France or New Zealand, steak from Ireland or Brazil, South African ostrich, and Italian pork. Delicious antipasti, an extensive wine list, and the attentive service add to the experience. Dinner is served until 1 am. | Average cost: €65 | Via XXV Aprile 21 | 16038 | 0185/288411 | www.ristoranteocabianca.net | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Jan.–mid-Feb. No lunch Tues.–Thurs. Sept.–Dec.

Fodor’s Choice | U’ Giancu.
$$ | LIGURIAN | Owner Fausto Oneto is a man of many hats. Though original cartoons cover the walls of his restaurant and a playground is the main feature of the outdoor seating area, Fausto is completely serious about his cooking. Lamb dishes are particularly delicious, his own garden provides the freshest possible vegetables, and the wine list (ask to visit the cantina) is excellent. For those who want to learn the secrets of Ligurian cuisine, Fausto provides lively morning cooking lessons. U’ Giancu is 8 km (5 miles) northwest of Santa Margherita Ligure. | Average cost: €45 | Via San Massimo 78 Località San Massimo, | Rapallo | 16035 | 0185/261212 | www.ugiancu.it | Closed Wed. and mid-Dec.–early Jan.

Where to Stay in Santa Margherita Ligure

Continental.
$$ | HOTEL | Built in the early 1900s, this stately seaside mansion with a columned portico stands in a lush garden shaded by tall palms and pine trees. The style is a blend of classic furnishings, mostly inspired by the 19th century. The hotel’s cabanas and swimming area are at the bottom of the garden. Pros: lovely location; private beach. Cons: rooms in the annex are not as nice as those in the main building; breakfast is unimaginative. TripAdvisor: “nice staff,” “gorgeous views,” “simply beautiful.” | Rooms from: €200 | Via Pagana 8 | 16038 | 0185/286512 | www.hotel-continental.it | 69 rooms, 4 suites | Breakfast.

Grand Hotel Miramare.
$$$$ | RESORT | Classic Riviera elegance prevails at this palatial hotel overlooking the bay south of the town center. Stroll through the lush garden, then take a dip in the curvaceous heated swimming pool or at the private swimming area on the sea. Antique furniture, such as crystal chandeliers and Louis XV chairs, fills the high-ceiling rooms, and there are marble bathrooms. Pros: top-notch service; private beach; well-maintained rooms. Cons: traffic in summer from the road in front of the hotel. TripAdvisor: “amazing fun,” “a superior experience,” “old-school Italy at its best.” | Rooms from: €350 | Via Milite Ignoto 30 | 16038 | 0185/287013 | www.grandhotelmiramare.it | 75 rooms, 9 suites | Breakfast.

Hotel Jolanda.
$$ | HOTEL | It may not have a sea view, but the Jolanda is stylish and comfortable. The spacious rooms are tastefully decorated. Some rooms have large balconies and all bathrooms have been remodeled. There is also a modestly priced in-house restaurant with a menu that changes daily. Pros: reasonable rates in a high-price area. Cons: no sea view; parking is limited and expensive. TripAdvisor: “comfortable and convenient,” “friendly atmosphere,” “grand and lovely.” | Rooms from: €150 | Via Luisito Costa 6 | 16038 | 0185/287512 | www.hoteljolanda.it | 47 rooms, 3 suites | Breakfast.

Portofino

5 km (3 miles) south of Santa Margherita Ligure, 36 km (22 miles) east of Genoa.

Getting Here

By car, exit at Rapallo off the A12 and follow the blue signs (about a 20-minute drive mostly along the coast). The nearest train station is Santa Margherita Ligure.

Trying to reach Portofino by bus or car on the single narrow road can be a nightmare in summer and on holiday weekends. No trains go directly to Portofino: you must stop at Santa Margherita and take the Number 82 public bus from there (€1.20). An alternative is to take a boat from Santa Margherita.

Portofino can also be reached from Santa Margherita on foot: it’s about a 40-minute (very pleasant) walk along the sea.

Visitor Information

Portofino Tourism Office.
Via Roma 35 | 16034 | 0185/269024 | commune.portofino.genova.it.

Exploring Portofino

One of the most photographed villages along the coast, with a decidedly romantic and affluent aura, Portofino has long been a popular destination for the rich and famous. Once an ancient Roman colony and taken by the Republic of Genoa in 1229, it’s also been ruled by the French, English, Spanish, and Austrians, as well as by marauding bands of 16th-century pirates. Elite British tourists first flocked to the lush harbor in the mid-1800s. Some of Europe’s wealthiest drop anchor in Portofino in summer, but they stay out of sight by day, appearing in the evening after buses and boats have carried off the day-trippers.

There’s not actually much to do in Portofino other than stroll around the wee harbor, see the castle, walk to Punta del Capo, browse at the pricey boutiques, and sip a coffee while people-watching. However, weaving through picture-perfect cliff-side gardens and gazing at yachts framed by the turquoise Ligurian Sea and the cliffs of Santa Margherita can make for quite a relaxing afternoon. There are also several tame, photo-friendly hikes into the hills to nearby villages.

Unless you’re traveling on a deluxe budget, you may want to stay in Camogli or Santa Margherita Ligure rather than at one of Portofino’s few very expensive hotels. Restaurants and cafés are good but also pricey (don’t expect to have a beer here for much under €10).

Fodor’s Choice | Castello Brown.
From the harbor, follow the signs for the climb to Castello Brown—the most worthwhile sight in Portofino—with its medieval relics, impeccable gardens, and sweeping views. The castle was founded in the Middle Ages but restored in the 16th through 18th centuries. In true Portofino form, it was owned by Genoa’s English consul from 1870 until it opened to the public in 1961. | Above harbor | 16034 | 0185/269046 | www.castellobrown.it | €3 | Apr.–Sept., Wed.–Mon. 10–6; Oct.–Mar., Wed.–Mon. 10–5.

San Giorgio.
The small church San Giorgio, sitting on a ridge, was rebuilt four times during World War II. It is said to contain the relics of its namesake, brought back from the Holy Land by the Crusaders. Portofino enthusiastically celebrates Saint George’s Day every April 23. | Above harbor | 16034 | 0185/269337 | Daily 7–6.

Punta Portofino.
Pristine views can be had from the deteriorating faro (lighthouse) at Punta Portofino, a 15-minute walk along the point that begins at the southern end of the port. Along the seaside path you can see numerous impressive, sprawling private residences behind high iron gates.

Paraggi.
The only sand beach near Portofino is at Paraggi, a cove on the road between Santa Margherita and Portofino. The bus will stop here on request.

Abbazia di San Fruttuoso (Abbey of San Fruttuoso).
On the sea at the foot of Monte Portofino, the medieval Abbazia di San Fruttuoso, built by the Benedictines of Monte Cassino, protects a minuscule fishing village that can be reached only on foot or by water—a 20-minute boat ride from Portofino and also reachable from Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure, and Rapallo. The restored abbey is now the property of a national conservation fund (FAI) and occasionally hosts temporary exhibitions. The church contains the tombs of some illustrious members of the Doria family. The old abbey and its grounds are delightful places to spend a few hours, perhaps lunching at one of the modest beachfront trattorias nearby (open only in summer). Boatloads of visitors can make it very crowded very fast; you might appreciate it most off-season. | 15-min boat ride or 2-hr walk northwest of Portofino | 16032 | 0185/772703 | €7 Apr.–Sept., €5 Oct.–Mar. | June–Sept. 15, daily 10–5:45; May and Sept. 16–30, daily 10–4:45; Oct.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 10–3:45. Last entry 1 hr before closing.

Where to Eat in Portofino

Canale.
$ | BAKERY | If the staggering prices of virtually all of Portofino’s restaurants put you off, the long line outside this family-run bakery indicates that you’re not alone and that something special is in store. Here all the focaccia Genovese is baked on the spot and served fresh from the oven, along with all kinds of sandwiches, pastries, and other refreshments. The only problem is there’s nowhere to sit—time for a picnic! | Average cost: €10 | Via Roma 30 | 16034 | 0185/269248 | No credit cards | Closed Nov.–Feb.

Ristorante Puny.
$$$ | LIGURIAN | A table at this tiny restaurant is difficult to come by in summer, as the manager caters mostly to friends and regulars. If you are lucky enough to get in, however, the food will not disappoint, nor will the cozy but elegant yellow interior. The unforgettable pappardelle (large, flat noodles) al portofino delicately blends two of Liguria’s tastes: tomato and pesto. Ligurian seafood specialties include baked fish with bay leaves, potatoes, and olives, as well as the inventive moscardini al forno (baked mini-octopus with lemon and rosemary in tomato sauce). | Average cost: €50 | Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta 4–5, on harbor | 16034 | 0185/269037 | Reservations essential | Closed Thurs., Jan., and Feb.

Where to Stay in Portofino

Eight Hotel Portofino.
$$$$ | HOTEL | If you decide to stay in Portofino, this is perhaps your best bet. Tucked away on a quiet backstreet, Eight Hotel offers guest rooms that are immaculate, comfortable, and soothingly designed with canopy beds, pastel walls, and ultramodern bathrooms. Two small 19th-century townhouses were joined to form the hotel (making the hallways seem like a labyrinth) but every area of the hotel is served by a high level of service. There’s also a lovely garden with a hydro-massage Jacuzzi where breakfast is offered in the warm weather months. Pros: luxurious accommodations in the middle of the village; secluded garden at the back. Cons: some of the lower-level rooms don’t receive much light; no sea views. TripAdvisor: “friendly staff,” “basic luxury,” “seclusion from the ordinary.” | Rooms from: €440 | Via Del Fondaco 11 | 16034 | 0185/26991 | www.eighthotels.it | 17 rooms, 1 suite | Closed Dec.–Mar. | Breakfast.

Splendido.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Arriving at this 1920s luxury hotel is so much like entering a Jazz Age film set that you’d almost expect to see a Bugatti or Daimler roll up the winding drive from the seaside below. There’s a particular attention to color, from the coordinated floral linens in corals and gold, to the fresh flowers in the reception rooms and on the large terrace. Even grander than the hotel are its prices (more than €1000). A half-board plan is mandatory during high season. Rooms have garden or sea views. Pros: gorgeous rooms; caring staff; lovely views. Cons: be prepared to spend upward of €100 for a simple lunch for two (it’s not just the rooms that are pricey). TripAdvisor: “splendid romantic hotel,” “breathtaking,” “perfect in every way.” | Rooms from: €1,200 | Salita Baratta 16 | 16034 | 0185/267801 | www.hotelsplendido.com | 69 rooms, 39 suites | Closed mid-Nov.–late Mar. | Some meals.

Sports and the Outdoors in Portofino

Hiking

If you have the stamina, you can hike to the Abbazia di San Fruttuoso from Portofino. It’s a steep climb at first, and the walk takes about 2½ hours one-way. If you’re extremely ambitious and want to make a day of it, you can hike another 2½ hours all the way to Camogli. Much more modest hikes from Portofino include a one-hour uphill walk to Cappella delle Gave, a bit inland in the hills, from where you can continue downhill to Santa Margherita Ligure (another 1½ hours) and a gently undulating paved trail leading to the beach at Paraggi (½ hour). Finally, there’s a 2½-hour hike from Portofino that heads farther inland to Ruta, through Olmi and Pietre Strette. The trails are well marked and maps are available at the tourist information offices in Rapallo, Santa Margherita, Portofino, and Camogli.

Camogli

15 km (9 miles) northwest of Portofino, 20 km (12 miles) east of Genoa.

Getting Here

By car, exit the A12 at Recco and follow the blue signs. There are several pay-parking lots near the village center. Camogli is on the main north–south railway line between Genoa and La Spezia.

Visitor Information

Camogli Tourism Office.
Via XX Settembre 33/R | 16032 | 0185/771066 | www.prolococamogli.it.

Exploring Camogli

Camogli, at the edge of the large promontory and nature reserve known as the Portofino Peninsula, has always been a town of sailors. By the 19th century it was leasing its ships throughout the continent. Today multicolor houses, remarkably deceptive trompe-l’oeil frescoes, and a massive 17th-century seawall mark this appealing harbor community, which is perhaps as beautiful as Portofino but without the glamour. When exploring on foot, don’t miss the boat-filled second harbor, which is reached by ducking under a narrow archway at the northern end of the first one.

Acquario (Aquarium).
The Castello Dragone, built onto the sheer rock face near the harbor, is home to the Acquario, which has tanks filled with local marine life built into the ramparts. | Via Isola | 16032 | 0185/773375 | €3 | Summer: 10–12 and 3–7; Winter: 10–11:45 and 2–5:45.

Off the Beaten Path: Ruta. The footpaths that leave from Ruta, 4 km (2½ miles) east of Camogli, thread through rugged terrain and contain a multitude of plant species. Weary hikers are sustained by stunning views of the Riviera di Levante from various vantage points along the way.

Where to Eat and Stay in Camogli

Vento Ariel.
$ | LIGURIAN | This small, friendly restaurant serves some of the best seafood in town. Dine on the shaded terrace in summer months and watch the bustling activity in the nearby port. Only the freshest seafood is served; try the spaghetti alle vongole (with clams) or the mixed grilled fish. | Average cost: €40 | Calata Porto | 16032 | 0185/771080 | Closed Wed., 1st half of Dec., and Jan.

Cenobio dei Dogi.
$$$ | HOTEL | Perched majestically a step above Camogli, overlooking harbor, peninsula, and sea, this is indisputably the best address in town. Genoa’s doges once summered here. Ask for one of the rooms with expansive balconies and commanding vistas of Camogli’s cozy port. You can relax in the well-kept park or enjoy a game of tennis. Pros: location and setting are wonderful. Cons: crowds make it seem overbooked in summer; decor is a bit old-fashioned. TripAdvisor: “for those who love traditional glamour,” “great atmosphere with incredible views,” “posh.” | Rooms from: €230 | Via Cuneo 34 | 16032 | 0185/7241 | www.cenobio.it | 102 rooms, 4 suites | Breakfast.

Villa Rosmarino.
$$ | B&B/INN | This small boutique hotel is a recent addition to the beautiful Camogliese hillside. A 10-minute walk from the seaside village, you can enjoy the tranquility of its well-manicured gardens and welcoming pool. The villa retains its typical Ligurian style with an exterior of rose paint, green shutters, and trompe l’oeil decorations, yet the interior is chic, contemporary, and comfortable. Pros: large beds; well-equipped bathrooms; total sense of relaxation. Cons: rooms are small and may not have enough amenities for everyone’s taste. TripAdvisor: “perfect hideaway,” “idyllic,” “amazing place to stay.” | Rooms from: €220 | Via Figari 38 | 16032 | 0185/771580 | www.villarosmarino.com | 6 rooms | Breakfast.

Nightlife and the Arts in Camogli

Sagra del Pesce.
Sagra del Pesce, the highlight of the festival of San Fortunato, is held on the second Sunday of May each year. It’s a crowded, festive, and free-to-the-public feast of freshly caught fish, cooked outside at the port in a frying pan 12 feet wide.

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