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Exploring Bologna | Where to Eat in Bologna | Where to Stay in Bologna | Nightlife and the Arts in Bologna | Shopping in Bologna

Bologna, a city rich with cultural jewels, has long been one of the best-kept secrets in northern Italy. Tourists in the know can bask in the shadow of its leaning medieval towers and devour the city’s wonderful food.

The charm of the centro storico, with its red-arcaded passageways and sidewalks, can be attributed to wise city counselors who, at the beginning of the 13th century, decreed that roads couldn’t be built without portici (porticoes). Were these counselors to return to town eight centuries later, they’d marvel at how little has changed.

Bologna, with a population of about 373,000, has a university-town vibe—and it feels young and lively in a way that many other Italian cities don’t. It also feels full of Italians in a way that many other towns, thronged with tourists, don’t. Bolognesi come out at aperitivo time, and you might be struck by the fact that it’s not just youngsters who are out doing the passeggiata (evening stroll), or having a glass of wine with affettati misti (mixed cured meats). The pleasure is shared by all Bolognesi.

Known as “Bologna the Fat” from as early as the Middle Ages, the town’s agricultural prosperity led to a well-fed population, one that survives into the 21st century. Bolognese food is, arguably, the best in Italy. With its sublime food, lively spirit, and largely undiscovered art, Bologna is a memorable destination.

Getting Here

Frequent train service from Florence to Bologna makes getting here easy. Frecciarossa (high-speed trains) run several times an hour and take just under 40 minutes; frecciabianca (slightly less-high-speed trains) run regularly as well and take a little over an hour. Otherwise, you’re left with the regionali (regional) trains, which putter along and get you to Bologna in just over two hours. The historic center is an interesting and relatively effortless walk from the station. If you’re driving from Florence, take the A1, exiting onto the A14, and then catching the RA1 to Uscita 7–Bologna Centrale. The trip takes about an hour. From Milan, take the A1, exiting to the A14 as you near the city; from there, take the A13 and exit at Bologna; then follow the RA1 to Uscita 7–Bologna Centrale. The trip is just under three hours.

Visitor Information

Bologna Tourism Offices.
Aeroporto di Bologna | 40132 | 051/239660 | www.bolognawelcome.it | Piazza Maggiore 1 | 40124 | 051/239660 | www.bolognawelcome.it.

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Exploring Bologna

Piazza Maggiore and the adjacent Piazza del Nettuno are the historic centers of the city. Arranged around these two squares are the imposing Basilica di San Petronio, the massive Palazzo Comunale, the Palazzo del Podestà, the Palazzo Re Enzo, and the Fontana del Nettuno—one of the most visually harmonious groupings of public buildings in the country. From here, sights that aren’t on one of the piazzas are but a short walk away, along delightful narrow cobbled streets or under the ubiquitous arcades that double as municipal umbrellas. Take at least a full day to explore Bologna; it’s compact and lends itself to easy exploration, but there’s plenty to see.

Top Attractions

Basilica di San Petronio.
Construction on this vast cathedral began in 1390; and the work, as you can see, still isn’t finished more than 600 years later. The wings of the transept are missing and the facade is only partially decorated, lacking most of the marble that was intended to adorn it. The main doorway was carved in 1425 by the great Sienese master Jacopo della Quercia. Above the center of the door is a Madonna and Child flanked by saints Ambrose and Petronius, the city’s patrons. Michelangelo, Giulio Romano, and Andrea Palladio (among others), submitted designs for the facade, which were all eventually rejected.

The interior of the basilica is huge. The Bolognesi had planned an even bigger church—you can see the columns erected to support the larger version outside the east end—but had to tone down construction when the university seat was established next door in 1561. The Museo di San Petronio contains models showing how it was originally supposed to look. The most important art in the church is in the fourth chapel on the left: these frescoes by Giovanni di Modena date from 1410–15. | Piazza Maggiore | 40125 | 051/22544 | Free | Church: Daily 7:45–1 and 3–6. Museum: Weekdays 9:30–12:30 and 3–5:30, Sat. 9:30–12:30 and 3–4:30, Sun. 3–5:30.

Fontana del Nettuno.
Sculptor Giambologna’s elaborate 1563–66 Baroque fountain and monument to Neptune occupying Piazza Nettuno has been aptly nicknamed Il Gigante (“The Giant”). Its exuberantly sensual mermaids and undraped God of the sea drew fire when it was constructed, but not enough, apparently, to dissuade the populace from using the fountain as a public washing stall for centuries. | Piazza Nettuno, next to Palazzo Re Enzo, Piazza Maggiore area | 40125.

Le Due Torri.
Two landmark towers, mentioned by Dante in The Inferno, stand side by side in the compact Piazza di Porta Ravegnana. Once every family of importance had a tower as a symbol of prestige and power—and as a potential fortress. Now only 60 remain out of more than 200 that once presided over the city. Torre Garisenda (from the late 11th century), which tilts 10 feet off perpendicular, was shortened to 165 feet in the 1300s and is now closed to visitors. Torre degli Asinelli (circa 1109) is 320-feet tall and leans 7½ feet. If you’re up to a serious physical challenge—and not claustrophobic—you may want to climb its 500 narrow, wooden steps to get the view over Bologna. | Piazza di Porta Ravegnana, east of Piazza Maggiore | 40126 | €3 | Torre degli Asinelli: daily 9–5.

Fodor’s Choice | Santo Stefano.
This splendid and unusual basilica actually contains between four and seven connected churches (authorities differ). A 4th-century temple dedicated to Isis was originally on this site, though much of what you see dates from the 10th through the 12th centuries. The oldest existing building is Santi Vitale e Agricola, parts of which date from the 5th century. The exquisite beehive-shape San Sepolcro contains a Nativity scene much loved by Bologna’s children, who come at Christmastime to pay their respects to the Christ Child. Just outside the church, which probably dates from the 5th century with later alterations, is the Cortile di Pilato (Pilate’s Courtyard), named for the basin in the center. It’s said that Pontius Pilate washed his hands in this basin after condemning Christ—despite the fact that it was probably crafted around the 8th century. Also in the building is a museum displaying various medieval religious works with a shop selling honey, shampoos, and jams made by the monks. | Via Santo Stefano 24, Piazza Santo Stefano, University area | 40125 | 051/223256 | Daily 9–noon and 3:30–6.

Università di Bologna.
Take a stroll through the streets of the university area: a jumble of buildings, some dating as far back as the 15th century and most to the 17th and 18th. The neighborhood, as befits a college town, is full of bookshops, coffee bars, and inexpensive restaurants. None of them are particularly distinguished, but they’re all characteristic of student life in the city. Try eating at the mensa universitaria (cafeteria) if you want to strike up a conversation with local students (most speak English). Political slogans and sentiments are scrawled on walls all around the university and tend to be ferociously leftist, sometimes juvenile, and often entertaining. Among the university museums, the most interesting is the Museo di Palazzo Poggi, which displays scientific instruments plus paleontological, botanical, and university-related artifacts. | Via Zamboni 33, University area | 40122 | 051/2099610 | www.museopalazzopoggi.unibo.it | €3 | Tues.–Fri. 10–1 and 2–4, weekends 10:30–1:30 and 2:30–5:30.

Worth Noting

Museo Internazionale della Musica.
The music museum in the spectacular Palazzo Aldini Sanguinetti, with its 17th- and 18th-century frescoes, offers among its exhibits a 1606 harpsichord and a collection of beautiful music manuscripts dating from the 1500s. | Strada Maggiore 34, University area | 40123 | 051/2757711 | www.museomusicabologna.it | Free | Oct.–July, Tues.–Fri. 9:30–4, weekends 10–6:30.

Palazzo Comunale.
A mélange of building styles and constant modifications characterize this huge palace dating from the 13th to 15th centuries. When Bologna was an independent city-state, this was the seat of government—a function it still serves today. Over the door is a statue of Bologna-born Pope Gregory XIII (reigned 1572–85), most famous for reorganizing the calendar. There are good views from the upper stories of the palace. The first-floor Sala Rossa (Red Room) is open on advance request and during some exhibitions; while the Sala del Consiglio Comunale (City Council Hall) is open to the public for a few hours in the late morning. The old stock exchange, part of the Palazzo Comunale which you enter from Piazza Nettuno, has been turned into a library: dubbed the Sala Borsa (www.bibliotecasalaborsa.it), it has an impressive interior courtyard. Within the palazzo there are also two museums. The Collezioni Comunali d’Arte exhibits paintings from the Middle Ages as well as some Renaissance works by Luca Signorelli (circa 1445–1523) and Tintoretto (1518–94). The Museo Giorgio Morandi (www.museomorandi.it) is dedicated to the 20th-century still-life artist Giorgio Morandi. In addition to his paintings, there’s a re-creation of his studio and living space. Underground caves and the foundations of the old cathedral can be visited by appointment made through the tourist office. | Piazza Maggiore 6 | 40121 | 051/203111 Palazzo, 051/2193338 Museo | €6, except during special art exhibitions | Sala del Consiglio Comunale: Tues.–Sat. 10–1. Sala Borsa: weekdays 9–1. Collezioni and Museo: Tues.–Fri. 11–6, weekends 11–8.

Palazzo del Podestà.
This classic Renaissance palace facing the Basilica di San Petronio was erected in 1484, and attached to it is the soaring Torre dell’Arengo. The bells in the tower have rung whenever the city has celebrated, mourned, or called its citizens to arms. | Piazza Nettuno, Piazza Maggiore area | 40121 | 051/224500 | During exhibitions only.

Palazzo Re Enzo.
Built in 1244, this palace became home to King Enzo of Sardinia, who was imprisoned here in 1249 after he was captured during the fierce battle of Fossalta. He died inside 23 years later. The palace has other macabre associations as well: common criminals received last rites in the tiny courtyard chapel before being executed in Piazza Maggiore. The courtyard is worth peeking into, but the palace merely houses government offices. | Piazza Re Enzo, Piazza Maggiore area | 40121 | 051/224500 | During exhibitions only.

Pinacoteca Nazionale.
Bologna’s principal art gallery contains many works by the immortals of Italian painting spanning the 13th to the 19th centuries. Its prize possession is the famous Ecstasy of St. Cecilia by Raphael (1483–1520). There’s also a beautiful polyptych by Giotto (1267–1337), as well as Madonna and Child with Saints Margaret, Jerome, and Petronio by Parmigianino: note the rapt eye contact between St. Margaret and the Christ Child. | Via delle Belle Arti 56, University area | 40126 | 051/4209411 | €4 | Tues.–Sun. 9–7.

San Domenico.
The tomb of St. Dominic, who died here in 1221, is called the Arca di San Domenico, and is found in this church in the sixth chapel on the right. Many artists participated in its decoration, notably Niccolò di Bari, who was so proud of his contribution that he changed his name to Niccolò dell’Arca to recall this famous work. The young Michelangelo (1475–1564) carved the angel on the right. In the right transept of the church is a tablet marking the last resting place of hapless King Enzo, the Sardinian ruler imprisoned in the Palazzo Re Enzo. The attached museum contains religious relics. | Piazza San Domenico 13, off Via Garibaldi, south of Piazza Maggiore | 40124 | 051/6400411 | www.domenicani.bo.it | Church: daily 8–12:30 and 3:30–6:30. Museum: weekdays 10–noon and 3:30–6, Sat. 9:30–noon and 3:30–5:30, Sun. 3:30–5:30.

Off the Beaten Path

MAMbo.
The name of this museum stands for Museo d’Arte Moderna di Bologna, or Bologna’s Museum of Modern Art. It houses a permanent collection of modern art (defined as post-World War II up until five minutes ago) and stages a revolving series of temporary exhibitions by cutting-edge artists. All this is set within a remarkable space: you might have a hard time telling that the sleek minimalist structure was built in 1915 as the Forno del Pane, a large bakery that made bread for many of the city’s residents. A bookshop and a restaurant complete the complex, the latter offering Sunday brunch and delicious aperitivi (aperitifs). | Via Don Minzoni 14 | 44100 | 051/6496611 | www.mambo-bologna.org | €6 | Tues., Wed., and Fri. 12–6, Thurs. 12–10, weekends 12–8.

Where to Eat in Bologna

Da Cesari.
$$ | EMILIAN | Just off Piazza Maggiore, this lovely one-room restaurant has white tablecloths, dark-wood paneling, and wine bottle–lined walls. Genial host Paolino Cesari has been presiding over his eatery since 1955, and both he and his staff go out of the way to make you feel at home. The food’s terrific—if you’re a lover of pork products, try anything on the menu with mora romagnola. Paolino has direct contact with the people who raise this once nearly-extinct type of porcine (referring to it as “my pig”). The meat is deep, highly flavorful, and makes divine salame, among other things. All the usual Bolognesi classics are here, as well as—in fall and winter—an inspired version of scaloppa all Petroniano (veal cutlet with prosciutto and fontina) that arrives at the table smothered in white truffles. | Average cost: €31 | Via de’ Carbonesi 8, south of Piazza Maggiore | 40124 | 051/237710 | www.da-cesari.it | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Aug., and 1 wk in Jan.

Da Gianni a la Vecia Bulagna.
$$ | ITALIAN | Locals simply call it “da Gianni,” and they fill these two unadorned rooms at lunch and at dinner. Though the decor is plain and unremarkable, it doesn’t much matter—this place is all about food. The usual starters such as a tasty tortellini in brodo are on hand, as are daily specials such as gnocchi made with pumpkin, then sauced with melted cheese. Bollito misto (mixed meats boiled in a rich broth) is a fine option here, and the cotechino con purè di patate (a deliciously oily sausage with mashed potatoes) is elevated to sublimity by the accompanying salsa verde. | Average cost: €31 | Via Clavature 18, Piazza Maggiore area | 40100 | 051/229434 | Reservations essential.

Divinis.
$$ | ITALIAN | Bottles lining the walls on both floors of this spot are a testimony to its commitment to serving fine wines, whether by the glass or by the bottle. The wine list runs to 102 pages—and terrific food accompanies the oenophilic splendor. Cheese and cured meat plates are on offer, as are superlative soups, salads, and secondi on a frequently-changing menu. Special events, such as wine tastings and tango dancing, happen throughout the week. Divinis’s continuous opening hours, a rarity in Italy, are an added plus. You could have a coffee at 11 am or a glass of wine well after midnight. | Average cost: €15 | Via Battibecco 4/c, Piazza Maggiore | 40100 | 051/2961502 | www.divinis.it | Reservations essential | Closed Sun.

Drogheria della Rosa.
$$$ | ITALIAN | Chef Emanuele Addone, who presides over his intimate little restaurant, hits the food markets every day and buys what looks good. This brings seasonality to his menu. He sauces his tortelli stuffed with squacquerone and stracchino (two creamy, fresh cow’s-milk cheeses) with artichokes, zucchini flowers, or mushrooms, depending on the time of year. In order to do this place justice, come with an appetite—you won’t want to skip a course. Kick off the proceedings with a glass of prosecco and a plate of affettati misti (mixed cured meats, a local specialty). Among the secondi, the tender filetto al balsamico (filet mignon with balsamic vinegar sauce on top) is exquisite. So is the wine list. | Average cost: €36 | Via Cartoleria 10, University area | 40100 | 051/222529 | www.drogheriadellarosa.it | Closed Sun.

Marco Fadiga Bistrot.
$$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | If you’re looking for terrific food and something out of the ordinary, dine at this French-styled bistrot: a warren of brilliantly colored rooms lit by chandelier. Chef Marco Fadiga has spent much time in England and France, and their culinary influences show. What’s on offer each night is written on a blackboard, which is brought to the table. You can have marvelous raw oysters, as well as the plateau (an assortment of raw things from the sea). Traditionalists will thrill to his tortellini in brodo, and adventurous sorts might like the tartare di orata (sea bream tartare) served with fresh and candied fruit. | Average cost: €50 | Via Rialto 23/c, Piazza Maggiore area, | Bologna | 40124 | 051/220118 | www.marcofadigabistrot.it | Reservations essential | No lunch; closed Sun. and Mon.

Tamburini.
$ | WINE BAR | Two small rooms inside plus kegs and bar stools outside make up this lively, packed little spot. At lunchtime office workers swarm to the “bistrot self service” for remarkably tasty primi and secondi. After lunch it becomes a wine bar with a vast array of selections by the glass and the bottle. The overwhelming plate of affettati misti is crammed with top-quality local ham products and succulent cheeses (including, sometimes, a goat Brie). An adjacent salumeria offers many wonderful things to take away. | Average cost: €10 | Via Drapperie 1, Piazza Maggiore area | 44100 | 051/234726 | No dinner.

Trattoria del Rosso.
$ | EMILIAN | Although its decor, with glaring yellow walls and the oddly-placed ceramic plate, is nothing to write home, this trattoria teems with locals. A mostly young crowd chows down on delicious, basic regional fare at rock-bottom prices. Nimble staff bearing multiple plates sashay neatly between the closely-spaced tables delivering such standards as crescentine con salumi e squacquerone (deep-fried flour puffs with cured meats and soft cheese) and tortellini in brodo. It is the kind of place where there’s always a line of hungry people outside waiting to get in, but where they don’t glare at you if you only order a plate of pasta: another reason, perhaps, why it’s a favorite of university students. | Average cost: €21 | Via Augusto Righi 30, University area | 44100 | 051/236730 | Closed Thurs.

Where to Stay in Bologna

Albergo Centrale.
$$ | HOTEL | It began life as a pensione in 1875, but subsequent restructurings have brought the Albergo Centrale into the 21st century. Innkeeper Werter Guizzardi has been tending this eminently affordable, highly comfortable place since 1987. Rooms are simply furnished and, if you book one facing the inner courtyard without a view, really quiet. Bathrooms are large by Italian standards (though not all rooms have a private one). A copious buffet breakfast includes all the usual suspects like breads, yogurt, and cheese, along with local specialties such as mortadella. The setting is another welcome bonus since Piazza Maggiore is only a stone’s throw away. Pros: very good value; excellent location. Cons: might be too plain for some tastes; street-facing rooms can get some noise. TripAdvisor: “fabulous breakfast,” “a pleasant stay,” “gracious hospitality.” | Rooms from: €140 | Via della Zecca 2, Piazza Maggiore | 40121 | 051/225114 | www.albergocentralebologna.it | 31 rooms, 26 rooms with bath | Breakfast.

Art Hotel Novecento.
$$$ | HOTEL | This swank place, inspired by the 1930s Viennese Secession movement, is in a remarkably serene cul-de-sac just minutes from Piazza Maggiore. Clean linens and elegant restraint are the hallmarks of the rooms, the lobby, even the elevators—and equally well-dressed people like to stay here. It’s well worth the extra €10 or so to upgrade from a basic double, as other rooms are that much bigger. The ample breakfast includes eggs, and every evening the bar hosts a happy hour. Note that the Novecento runs promotional offers throughout the year, especially on weekends. Pros: spacious single rooms ideal for solo travelers; friendly, capable concierge service. Cons: some standard doubles are small. TripAdvisor: “comfortable and central,” “warm inviting room,” “wonderful staff.” | Rooms from: €250 | Piazza Galileo 4/3, Piazza Maggiore area | 40126 | 051/7457311 | www.bolognarthotels.it/novecento | 24 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast.

Art Hotel Orologio.
$$ | HOTEL | The location can’t be beat: it’s right around the corner from Piazza Maggiore, tucked in a quiet little side street. Reception is on the ground floor, and a flight of stairs takes you up to the second floor to the elevator and charming breakfast room. The inviting living room has oriental rugs, paisley couches, and offers prosecco and snacks at aperitivo (aperitif) time. Rooms are mostly painted yellow, with hardwood floors, and some have antique clocks (hence the “orologio” of the hotel’s name), and tremendous views of 14th-century Palazzo Comunale just across the way. Sumptuous breakfasts include a “dolcino” of the day, which is either a little shot glass of cream, chocolate, or a fruit concoction. Note that the hotel frequently has discounted prices and other offers. Pros: central location; family-friendly rooms; welcomes all animals. Cons: some steps to elevator; pet-friendly environment may not appeal to allergy sufferers TripAdvisor: “classy,” “another pleasingly pleasant stay,” “comfortable and convenient.” | Rooms from: €150 | Via IV Novembre 10, Piazza Maggiore area | 40123 | 051/7457411 | www.bolognarthotels.it/orologio | 26 rooms, 6 suites, 1 apartment | Breakfast.

Nightlife and the Arts in Bologna

The Arts

Bologna Tourism Office.
Bologna’s arts scene is one of the liveliest in Italy. Opera, ballet, rock concerts, and theatrical extravaganzas happen year-round, as do food festivals. The Bologna tourism office has information on performances and events. | 051/239660 | www.bolognawelcome.it.

Music and Opera

Teatro Comunale.
The 18th-century Teatro Comunale presents concerts by Italian and international orchestras throughout the year, but is dominated by the highly acclaimed opera performances November–May, so reserve seats well in advance. The ticket office is open Tuesday–Saturday 10–2. | Largo Respighi 1, University area | 44100 | 051/529958 | www.tcbo.it.

Nightlife

As a university town, Bologna has long been known for its busy nightlife. As early as 1300 it was said to have had 150 taverns. Most of the city’s current 200-plus pubs and bars are frequented by Italian students, young adults, and international students, with the university district forming the hub. In addition to the university area, the pedestrians-only zone on Via del Pratello, lined with plenty of bars, also has a hopping night scene; as does Via delle Moline, which promises cutting-edge cafés and bars. A more upmarket, low-key evening experience can be had at one of Bologna’s many wine bars, where the food is often substantial enough to constitute dinner.

Bars

If you want a night out at a trendy spot, Bologna offers a lot to choose from.

Bar Calice.
Bar Calice runs an indoor-outdoor operation year-round (with heat lamps). It’s extremely popular with thirtysomethings, sometimes pushing baby carriages. | Via Clavature 13/a, at Via Marchesana, Piazza Maggiore area | 40100 | 051/6569296.

Le Stanze.
At Le Stanze you can sip an aperitivo or a late-night drink at a modern bar. The decor includes 17th-century frescoes in what was once the private chapel of the Palazzo Bentivoglio. The adjoining cutting-edge restaurant serves Italian fusion cooking. | Via del Borgo di San Pietro 1, University area | 40123 | 051/228767 | www.lestanzecafe.com | Closed Mon., and July and Aug.

Nu Bar Lounge.
The lively Nu Bar Lounge draws a cocktail-loving crowd, who enjoy bartenders mixing up fun drinks like “I’m Too Sexy for This Place:” which, in this case, is a combination of vodka, triple sec, apple juice, and lemon. | Off Buca San Petronio, Via de’ Musei 6, Piazza Maggiore area | 40123 | 051/222532 | www.nu-lounge.com.

Music Venues

It’s not hard to find drinks accompanied by live music in the city.

Cantina Bentivoglio.
With live music staged every evening, Cantina Bentivoglio is one of Bologna’s most appealing nightspots. You can enjoy light meals here as well. | Via Mascarella 4/b, University area | 40126 | 051/265416 | www.cantinabentivoglio.it.

Osteria Buca delle Campane.
Osteria Buca delle Campane—an underground tavern in a 13th-century building—has good, inexpensive food and a lively after-dinner scene that’s popular with locals, including students who come to listen to live music. | Via Benedetto XIV 4/a, University area | 40100 | 051/220918.

Shopping in Bologna

Clothing

Galleria Cavour.
One of the most upscale malls in Italy, the Galleria Cavour houses many of the fashion giants, including Gucci, Versace, and jeweler-watchmaker Bulgari. | Via Luigi Carlo Farini, south of Piazza Maggiore | 40124 | www.galleriacavour.net.

Castel Guelfo Outlet City.
If you don’t feel like paying Galleria Cavour prices, Castel Guelfo Outlet City is about 20 minutes outside Bologna on the autostrada A14 toward Imola (take the Castel San Pietro Terme exit; 980 feet after the tollbooth, turn right onto Via San Carlo). It includes about 50 discount stores, some from top designers such as Ferré. It’s closed Monday morning. | Via del Commercio 20/a, Loc. Poggio Piccolo, | Castel Guelfo | 40023 | 0542/670765 | www.thestyleoutlets.it.

Wine and Food

Bologna is a good place to buy wine. Several shops have a bewilderingly large selection—to go straight to the top, ask the managers which wines have won the prestigious Tre Bicchieri (Three Glasses) award from Gambero Rosso’s wine bible, Vini d’Italia.

Eataly.
You can grab a bite to eat or a glass of wine while stocking up on the best quality olive oil, vinegar, cured meats, and artisanal pasta at this lively shop. | Via degli Orafici 19, Piazza Maggiore area, | Bologna | 40124 | 051/0952820 | www.eataly.it.

Enoteca Italiana.
Repeatedly recognized as one of the best wine stores in the country, Enoteca Italiana lives up to its reputation with shelves lined with excellent selections from all over Italy at reasonable prices. Their delicious sandwiches with wines by the glass also make a great light lunch. | Via Marsala 2/b, north of Piazza Maggiore | 40126 | 051/235989 | www.enotecaitaliana.it.

La Baita.
La Baita sells fresh tagliolini, tortellini, and other Bolognese pasta delicacies, as well as sublime food to take away. Their cheese counter is laden with local cheeses of superlative quality. | Via Pescherie Vecchia 3/a, Piazza Maggiore area | 40100 | 051/223940.

Le Dolcezze.
If you favor sweets, head to Le Dolcezze, a top local pasticceria (pastry shop). Its cakes are excellent and the panettone (a sweet bread produced only around Christmas) is considered by some to be the best in town. | Via Murri 121, Piazza Maggiore area | 40100 | 051/444582.

Majani.
They’ve been making chocolate at this classy little establishment sice 1796. Its staying power may be attributed to high-quality sweets, which are as nice to look at as they are to eat. | Via de’Carbonesi 5, Piazza Maggiore area, | Bologna | 40123 | 051/969157 | www.majani.com | Via G. Brodolini 16, Piazza Maggiore area, | Bologna | 40056.

Mercato delle Erbe.
The Mercato delle Erbe is a bustling food market, open Monday through Wednesday and Friday 7–1:15 and 5–7:30 (4:30–7:30 October–March), and Thursday and Saturday 7–1:15. | Via Ugo Bassi 25, Piazza Maggiore area | 40100 | 051/230186 | www.mercatodelleerbe.it.

Mercato di Mezzo.
The Mercato di Mezzo, which sells specialty foods, fruits, and vegetables, is an intense barrage of sights and smells. It’s open Monday through Saturday 7–1 and 4:15–7:30, with the exception of Thursday afternoon, when it’s closed. | Via Peschiere Vecchie, Piazza Maggiore area | 40100.

Paolo Atti & Figli.
Paolo Atti & Figli has been producing some of Bologna’s finest pastas, cakes, and other delicacies for over 130 years. | Via Caprarie 7, Piazza Maggiore area | 44100 | 051/220425 | www.paoloatti.com.

Roccati.
Roccati has been crafting sculptural works of chocolate, as well as basic bonbons and simpler sweets, since 1909. | Via Clavature 17/a, Piazza Maggiore area | 40124 | 051/261964 | www.roccaticioccolato.com.

Scaramagli.
Friendly owners run the midsize, down-to-earth Scaramagli wine store. | Strada Maggiore 31/d, University area | 40125 | 051/227132 | www.scaramagli.it.

Via Oberdan.
For fresh produce, meats, and other foods, head to Via Oberdan, the street just off Via dell’Indipendenza downtown. | Piazza Maggiore area | 40100.

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