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Welcome To Central Italy

Florence. It’s hard to think of a place that’s more closely linked to one specific historical period than Florence. In the 15th century the city was at the center of an artistic revolution, later labeled the Renaissance, which changed the way people see the world. Five hundred years later the Renaissance remains the reason people see Florence—the abundance of treasures is mind-boggling. Present-day Florentines have a somewhat uneasy relationship with their city’s past; the never-ending stream of tourists is something they seem to tolerate more often than embrace. Still, they pride themselves on living well, and that means you’ll find exceptional restaurants and first-rate shopping to go with all that amazing art.

Tuscany. Nature outdid herself in Tuscany, the central Italian region that has Florence as its principal city. Descriptions and photographs can’t do the landscape justice—the hills, draped with woods, vineyards, and olive groves, may not have the drama of mountain peaks or waves crashing on the shore, yet there’s an undeniable magic about them. Aside from Florence, Tuscany has several midsize cities that are well worth visiting, but the greatest appeal lies in the smaller towns, often perched on hilltops and not significantly altered since the Middle Ages. Despite its popularity with fellow travelers, Tuscany remains a place you can escape to.

Umbria and the Marches. This region is closer to the Appenines than Tuscany is, so the landscape is wilder, the valleys deeper, and the mountains higher. The greater physical isolation of Umbria’s towns and, until the unification of Italy, their association with the Papal States, may have encouraged the development of a keen sense of spirituality. Several of Italy’s major saints are from the region, including St. Benedict of Norcia, St. Rita of Cascia, St. Chiara of Assisi, and most famously St. Francis of Assisi. There’s no city with the size or significance of Florence, but a number of the smaller towns, particularly Assisi, Perugia, Spoleto, and Orvieto, have lots to hold your interest. Umbria’s Roman past is much in evidence—expect to see Roman villas, aqueducts, theaters, walls, and temples. To the east, in the region of the Marches, the main draw is the town of Urbino, where the Ducal Palace reveals more about the artistic energy of the Renaissance than a shelf of history books.

Central Italy Planner

Biking and Hiking

In spring, summer, and fall, bicyclists pedaling up and down Tuscany’s hills are as much a part of the landscape as the cypress trees. Many are on weeklong organized tours, but it’s also possible to rent bikes for jaunts in the countryside or to join afternoon or daylong rides.

Hiking is a simpler matter: all you need is a pair of sturdy shoes. The tourist information offices in most towns can direct you on walks ranging from an hour to a full day in duration. You can also sign on for more elaborate guided tours.

Italy by Design (Via delle Lame 52, Florence | 055/6532381 | www.italybydesign.com) provides city walks in Florence with expert guides, and made-to-measure hiking and driving vacations throughout Italy. The Salerno-based Genius Loci (Via Rotondo 5, | Salerno | 84127 | 089/791896 | www.genius-loci.it) offers guided and self-guided biking and walking tours for the budget-conscious throughout Italy. Italian Connection(11825-11B Ave. | Edmonton, AB | T6J 7E3 | 800/4627911 or 780/438/5712 | www.italian-connection.com) conducts high-end walking and culinary trips throughout Italy.

Getting Here

Most flights to Tuscany originating in the United States stop either in Rome, London, Paris, or Frankfurt, and then connect to Florence’s small Aeroporto A. Vespucci (commonly called Peretola), or to Pisa’s Aeroporto Galileo Galilei. The only exception at this writing is Delta’s New York/JFK flight going directly into Pisa.

There are several other alternatives for getting into the region. If you want to start your trip in Umbria, it works to fly into Rome’s Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci (commonly called Fiumicino); from Rome it’s an hour by train or an hour and a half by car to reach the lovely town of Orvieto. Another option is to fly to Milan and pick up a connecting flight to Pisa, Florence, Perugia, or Ancona in the Marches.

Are Italian Drivers “Pazzo”?

Are Italian drivers as “crazy” as you’ve heard? Yes—at least many of them are. When you hit the road, don’t be surprised to encounter tailgating and high-risk passing. Your best response is to take the same safety-first approach you use at home; on the road is one place where you don’t want to be mistaken for a local. On the plus side, Italy’s roads are usually well maintained (though strade regionali—local roads—often are not). Note that wearing a seat belt and having your lights on at all times are required by law.

On the Calendar: Events and Festivals

Several major events mark the calendar in Tuscany and Umbria, drawing attendees from around the world.

For the two weeks leading up to Lent, the town of Viareggio along the coast of northwest Tuscany is given over to the sometimes-bawdy revels of Carnevale. The festivities are second only to Venice’s in size and lavishness.

Twice a year, on July 2 and August 16, Siena goes medieval with the Palio, a bareback horse race around its main square. It’s more than a race—it’s a celebration of tradition and culture dating back 1,000 years.

For two weeks in late June and early July, stars from the worlds of classical music and the performing arts make their way to the Umbria hill town of Spoleto to take part in the Festival dei Due Mondi. Opera fans crowd the outdoor Puccini Festival held in July and August at Torre del Lago, while Florence’s Maggio Musicale, which extends through most of the year, attracts an international audience for performances of opera, classical music, and ballet.

While the big events are impressive, the calendar also overflows with smaller traditional sagre (festivals or fairs). You’ll find them in towns of every size, January through December, with names like Sagra del Cinghiale (Wild Boar Festival), Sagra della Castagna (Chestnut Festival), and Festa del Fungo (Mushroom Festival). There’s the Befanate (celebrating Italy’s witchlike Santa equivalent) in Grossetto during Epiphany, the Teatro Povero (a folk theater production) in Monticchiello in July, and, throughout southern Tuscany on the night of April 30, the Canta il Maggio (Songs for Spring) are performed.

Sagre are fun, and there’s often delicious traditionally prepared food to be had. You can check with the local or regional tourist information offices for the dates and times of any sagre that happen to coincide with your visit.

When to Go

Throughout Tuscany and Umbria the best times to visit are spring and fall. Days are warm, nights are cool, and though there are still tourists, the crowds are smaller.

In the countryside the scenery is gorgeous, with abundant greenery and flowers in spring, and burnished leaves in autumn.

July and August are the most popular times to visit. Note, though, that the heat is often oppressive and mosquitoes are prevalent.

Try to start your days early and visit major sights first to beat the crowds and the midday sun.

For relief from the heat, head to the mountains of the Garfagnana, where hiking is spectacular, or hit the beach at resort towns such as Forte dei Marmi and Viareggio, along the Maremma coast, or on the island of Elba.

November through March you might wonder who invented the term “sunny Italy.”

The panoramas are still beautiful, even with overcast skies, frequent rain, and occasional snow.

In winter Florence benefits from shorter museum lines and less competition for restaurant tables.

Outside the cities, though, many hotels and restaurants close for the season.