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The View from Florence’s Piazzale Michelangelo

One of the best ways to introduce yourself to Florence is by walking up to this square on the hill south of the Arno. From here you can take in the whole city, and much of the surrounding countryside, in one spectacular vista. To extend the experience, linger at one of the outdoor cafés, and for the finest view of all, time your visit to correspond with sunset.

Strolling the Ramparts of Lucca

Lucca, 80 km (50 miles) west of Florence, isn’t situated on a hilltop in the way commonly associated with Tuscan towns, and it doesn’t have quite the abundance of art treasures that you find in Siena or Pisa (to say nothing of Florence). Yet for many visitors Lucca is a favorite Tuscan destination, and the source of its appeal has everything to do with its ramparts.

These hulking barricades have surrounded the city center since the 17th century; built as a source of security, they now are part of an elevated, oval park, complete with walkways, picnic areas, grass, and trees.

The citizens of Lucca spend much of their spare time here, strolling, biking, and lounging, oblivious to the novelty of their situation but clearly happy with it.

Taking the Waters at a Tuscan Spa

Tuscany is dotted throughout with small terme (thermal baths), where hot water flows from natural springs deep beneath the earth’s surface. It’s been believed for millennia that these waters have the power to cure whatever ails you.

Although their medicinal power may be questionable, that doesn’t mean a dip isn’t an extremely pleasant way to spend an afternoon.

In northwest Tuscany you can take the waters at Montecatini Terme (made famous as a setting for Fellini’s 8½ and seemingly little has changed since then) or Bagni di Lucca (which had its heyday in the era of the 19th-century Romantic poets). To the south, Saturnia is the biggest draw, along with the more humble Chianciano Terme and Bagno Vignoni.

Wine Tasting in Chianti

The gorgeous hills of the Chianti region, between Florence and Siena, produce exceptional wines, and they never taste better than when sampled on their home turf. Many Chianti vineyards are visitor-friendly, but the logistics of a visit are different from what you may have experienced in other wine regions.

If you just drop in, you’re likely to get a tasting, but for a tour you usually need to make an appointment several days ahead of time. The upside is that your tour may end up being a half day of full immersion—including extended conversation with the winemakers and even a meal.

Hiking in the Footsteps of Saint Francis

Umbria, which bills itself as “Italy’s Green Heart,” is fantastic hiking country. Among the many options are two with a Franciscan twist. From the town of Cannara, 16 km (10 miles) south of Assisi, an easy half-hour walk leads to the fields of Pian d’Arca, where Saint Francis delivered his sermon to the birds.

For a slightly more demanding walk, you can follow the saint’s path from Assisi to the Eremo delle Carceri (Hermitage of Prisons), where Francis and his followers went to “imprison” themselves in prayer, and from here continue along the trails that crisscross Monte Subasio.

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