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Where to Eat

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Florence’s popularity with tourists means that, unfortunately, there’s a higher percentage of mediocre restaurants here than you’ll find in most Italian towns. Some restaurant owners cut corners and let standards slip, knowing that a customer today is unlikely to return tomorrow, regardless of the quality of the meal. So, if you’re looking to eat well, it pays to do some research, starting with the recommendations here—we promise there’s not a tourist trap in the bunch. Try to avoid places where waiters stand outside and invite you in, as well as those spots with little billboards outside showing pictures of their food. (Both practices are prevalent around San Lorenzo.)

Hours start at around 1 for lunch and 8 for dinner. Many of Florence’s restaurants are small, so reservations are a must. You can sample such specialties as creamy fegatini (a chicken-liver spread) and ribollita (minestrone thickened with bread and beans and swirled with extra-virgin olive oil) in a bustling, convivial trattoria, where you share long wooden tables set with paper place mats, or in an upscale ristorante with linen tablecloths and napkins.

Those with a sense of culinary adventure should not miss the tripe sandwich, served from stands throughout town. This Florentine favorite comes with a fragrant salsa verde (green sauce) or a piquant red hot sauce—or both. Follow the Florentines’ lead and take a break at an enoteca (wine bar) during the day and discover some excellent Chiantis and Super Tuscans from small producers who rarely export.

Please note that quoted prices for “Average Cost” of a meal include first course (primo), second course (secondo), and dessert (dolce).

The Duomo to the Ponte Vecchio

Coquinarius.
$ | ITALIAN | This rustically elegant space, which has served many purposes over the past 600 years, offers some of the tastiest food in town at great prices. It’s the perfect place to come if you aren’t sure what you’re hungry for, as they offer a little bit of everything: salad-lovers will have a hard time choosing from among the lengthy list (the Scozzese, with poached chicken, avocado, and bacon, is a winner); those with a yen for pasta will face agonizing choices (the ravioli with pecorino and pears is particularly good). A revolving list of piatti unici (single dishes that can be ordered on their own, usually served only at lunch) can also whet the whistle, as well as terrific cheese and cured meat plates. The well-culled wine list has lots of great wines by the glass, and even more by the bottle. | Average cost: €15 | Via delle Oche 15/r, Piazza della Signoria | 50100 | 055/2302153 | www.coquinarius.it | Reservations essential.

Frescobaldi Wine Bar.
$$ | WINE BAR | The Frescobaldi family has run a vineyard for more than 700 years, and this swanky establishment offers tasty and sumptuous fare to accompany the seriously fine wines. Warm terra-cotta-color walls with trompe-l’oeil tapestries provide a soothing atmosphere. The menu is typically Tuscan, but turned up a notch or two: the faraona in umido con l’uva (stewed guinea fowl with grapes) comes with a side of feather-light mashed potatoes. Save room for dessert, as well as one of the dessert wines. A separate, lovely little wine bar called Frescobaldino has a shorter—but equally good—menu and a delightful, multilingual barman called Primo. | Average cost: €35 | Via de’ Magazzini 2–4/r, Piazza della Signoria | 50122 | 055/284724 | Closed Sun. No lunch Mon.

Fodor’s Choice | Ora d’Aria.
$$$ | MODERN ITALIAN | The name means “Hour of Air” and refers to the time of day when prisoners were let outside for fresh air—alluding to the fact that this gem was originally located across the street from what was once the old prison. In the kitchen, gifted young chef Marco Stabile turns out exquisite Tuscan classics as well as more fanciful dishes, which are as beautiful as they are delicious; intrepid diners will be vastly rewarded for ordering the tortellini farciti con piccione (stuffed with pigeon) if it’s on the day’s menu. Two tasting menus give Stabile even greater opportunity to shine, and the carefully culled wine list has something to please every palate. Do not miss his tiramisu espresso—something halfway between a dessert and a coffee. In fact, if you’re a serious gourmand, do not miss this place. | Average cost: €53 | Via Georgofili 79/r, Piazza della Signoria | 50122 | 055/2001699 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. No lunch.

San Lorenzo and Beyond

da Nerbone.
$ | TUSCAN | This tavola calda in the middle of the covered Mercato Centrale has been serving up food to Florentines who like their tripe since 1872. Tasty primi and secondi are available every day, but cognoscenti come for the panino con il lampredotto (tripe sandwich). Less adventurous sorts might want to sample the panino con il bollito (boiled beef sandwich). Ask that the bread be bagnato (briefly dipped in the tripe cooking liquid), and have both the salsa verde and salsa piccante (a spicy cayenne sauce) slathered on top. | Average cost: €13 | Mercato San Lorenzo | 50123 | 055/219949 | No credit cards | Closed Sun. No dinner.

Fodor’s Choice | Mario.
$ | TUSCAN | Florentines flock to this narrow family-run trattoria near San Lorenzo to feast on Tuscan favorites served at simple tables under a wooden ceiling dating from 1536. A distinct cafeteria feel and genuine Florentine hospitality prevail: you’ll be seated wherever there’s room, which often means with strangers. Yes, there’s a bit of extra oil in most dishes, which imparts calories as well as taste, but aren’t you on vacation in Italy? Worth the splurge is riso al ragù (rice with ground beef and tomatoes). | Average cost: €16 | Via Rosina 2/r, corner of Piazza del Mercato Centrale | 50123 | 055/218550 | Reservations not accepted | Closed Sun. and Aug. No dinner.

Fodor’s Choice | Taverna del Bronzino.
$$ | TUSCAN | Want to have a sophisticated meal in a 16th-century Renaissance artist’s studio? The former studio of Santi di Tito, a student of Bronzino’s, has a simple, formal decor, with white tablecloths and place settings. The classic, elegantly presented Tuscan food is superb, and the solid, afforable wine list rounds out the menu—especially because Stefano, the sommelier, really knows his stuff. The service is outstanding. Reservations are advised, especially for eating at the wine cellar’s only table. | Average cost: €40 | Via delle Ruote 25/r, San Marco | 50129 | 055/495220 | Closed Sun. and 3 wks in Aug.

Santa Maria Novella to the Arno

Buca Lapi.
$$ | ITALIAN | The Antinori family started selling wine from their palace’s basement in the 15th century. Six hundred years later, this buca (hole) is a lively, subterranean restaurant filled with Florentine aristocrats devouring what might be the best (and most expensive) bistecca fiorentina in town. The classical Tuscan menu has the usual suspects: crostino di cavolo nero (black cabbage on toasted garlic bread), along with ribollita and pappa al pomodoro (two bread-based soups). You might want to cut directly to the chase, however, and order the bistecca, an immense slab of Chianina beef impeccably grilled on the outside, just barely warmed on the inside. (If you’re not into rare meat, order something else from the grill.) Roast potatoes and cannellini beans make perfect accompaniments. | Average cost: €45 | Via del Trebbio 1, Santa Maria Novella | 055/213768 | www.bucalapi.com | Reservations essential.

Cantinetta Antinori.
$$$ | ITALIAN | After a morning of shopping on Via Tornabuoni, stop for lunch in this 15th-century palazzo in the company of Florentine ladies (and men) who come to see and be seen over lunch. The panache of the food matches its clientele: expect treats such as tramezzino con pane di campagna al tartufo (country pâté with truffles served on bread) and the insalata di gamberoni e gamberetti con carciofi freschi (crayfish and prawn salad with shaved raw artichokes). | Average cost: €52 | Piazza Antinori 3, Santa Maria Novella | 50123 | 055/292234 | Closed weekends, 20 days in Aug., and Dec. 25–Jan. 6.

Il Latini.
$$ | TUSCAN | It may be the noisiest, most crowded trattoria in Florence, but it’s also one of the most fun. The genial host, Torello (“little bull”) Latini, presides over his four big dining rooms, and somehow it feels as if you’re dining in his home. Ample portions of ribollita prepare the palate for the hearty meat dishes that follow. Both Florentines and tourists alike tuck into the agnello fritto (fried lamb) with aplomb. There’s almost always a wait, even with a reservation. | Average cost: €32 | Via dei Palchetti 6/r | 50123 | 055/210916 | Closed Mon. and 15 days at Christmas.

Trattoria Sostanza (il Troia).
$$ | ITALIAN | Since opening its doors in 1869, this trattoria has been serving top-notch, unpretentious food to Florentines who like their bistecca fiorentina very large and very rare. A single room with white tiles on the wall and paper mats on the tables provides the setting for delicious meals. Along with fine Tuscan classics, they have two signature dishes: the tortino di carciofi (artichoke tart) and the pollo al burro (chicken with butter). The latter is an amazing surprise, a succulent chicken breast cooked very quickly and served as soon as it leaves the grill. Leave room for dessert, as their torta alla Meringa (a semi-frozen dessert flecked with chocolate and topped with meringue) is scrumptious. | Average cost: €30 | Via della Porcellana 25 | 50100 | 055/212691 | Reservations essential | No credit cards.

Obika.
$ | ITALIAN | Mozzarella takes center stage at this sleek eatery on Florence’s swankiest street. The cheese, along with its culinary cousin burrata (a soft cheese filled with butter), arrives daily from southern Italy to become the centerpiece for various salads and pastas. Four different kinds of rotoli (rolled, stuffed mozzarella) are available; the one with smoked salmon and arugula is particularly tasty. You can pair your cheese with a number of accompaniments, including caponata (a Sicilian eggplant mélange) and mortadella from nearby Prato. Efficient service (in a 16th century palazzo courtyard when the weather’s nice) and a well-priced wine list add to the pleasure of a meal here. Nightly happy hour, with an extensive selection of snacks, is fun and a bargain. | Average cost: €24 | Via Tornabuoni 16 | 055/2773526.

Santa Croce

Antico Noe.
$$ | TUSCAN | If Florence had diners (it doesn’t), this would be the best diner in town. The short menu at the one-room eatery relies heavily on seasonal ingredients picked up daily at the market. Though the secondi are good, it’s the antipasti and primi that really shine. The menu comes alive particularly during truffle and artichoke season (don’t miss the grilled artichokes if they’re on the menu). Locals rave about the tagliatelle ai porcini (with mushrooms); the fried eggs liberally laced with truffle might be the greatest truffle bargain in town. Ask for the menu in Italian, as the English version is much more limited. The short wine list has some great bargains. | Average cost: €36 | Volta di San Piero 6/r, Santa Croce | 50121 | 055/2340838 | Closed Sun. and 2 wks in Aug.

Baldovino.
$ | ITALIAN | David and Catherine Gardner, expat Scots, have created this lively, brightly colored restaurant down the street from the church of Santa Croce. From its humble beginnings as a pizzeria, it has evolved into something more. It’s a happy thing that pizza is still on the menu, but now it shares billing with sophisticated primi and secondi. The menu changes monthly, and has such treats as filetto di manzo alla Bernaise (filet mignon with light béarnaise sauce). Baldovino also serves pasta dishes and grilled meat until the wee hours. | Average cost: €29 | Via San Giuseppe 22/r, Santa Croce | 50122 | 055/241773.

Fodor’s Choice | Cibrèo.
$$$$ | TUSCAN | The food at this upscale trattoria is fantastic, from the creamy crostini di fegatini (a savory chicken-liver spread) to the melt-in-your-mouth desserts. Many Florentines hail this as the city’s best restaurant, and Fodor’s readers tend to agree—though some take issue with the prices and complain of long waits for a table (even with a reservation). If you thought you’d never try tripe—let alone like it—this is the place to lay any doubts to rest: the trippa in insalata (cold tripe salad) with parsley and garlic is an epiphany. The food is traditionally Tuscan, impeccably served by a staff that’s multilingual—which is a good thing, because there are no written menus. | Average cost: €71 | Via A. del Verrocchio 8/r, Santa Croce | 50122 | 055/2341100 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. and July 25–Sept. 5.

Cibrèo Trattoria.
$ | TUSCAN | This intimate little trattoria, known to locals as Cibreino, shares its kitchen with the famed Florentine culinary institution from which it gets its name. They share the same menu, too, though Cibreino’s is much shorter. Start with il gelatina di pomodoro (tomato gelatin) liberally laced with basil, garlic, and a pinch of hot pepper, and then sample the justifiably renowned passato in zucca gialla (pureed yellow-pepper soup) before moving on to any of the succulent second courses. Save room for dessert, as the pastry chef has a deft hand with chocolate tarts. To avoid sometimes agonizingly long waits, come early (7 pm) or late (after 9:30). | Average cost: €28 | Via dei Macci 118, Santa Croce | 50122 | 055/2341100 | Reservations not accepted | No credit cards | Closed Sun. and Mon. and July 25–Sept. 5.

da Rocco.
$ | TUSCAN | At one of Florence’s biggest markets you can grab lunch to go, or you could cram yourself into one of the booths and pour from the straw-cloaked flask (wine here is da consumo, which means they charge you for how much you drink). Food is abundant, Tuscan, and fast; locals pack in. The menu changes daily, and the prices are great. | Average cost: €8 | In Mercato Sant’Ambrogio, Piazza Ghiberti, Santa Croce | 50122 | No phone | Reservations not accepted | No credit cards | Closed Sun. No dinner.

Enoteca Pinchiorri.
$$$$ | ITALIAN | A sumptuous Renaissance palace with high frescoed ceilings and bouquets in silver vases provides the backdrop for this restaurant, one of the most expensive in Italy. Some consider it one of the best, and others consider it a non-Italian rip-off, as the kitchen is presided over by a Frenchwoman with sophisticated, yet internationalist, leanings. Prices are high (think $100 for a plate of spaghetti) and portions are small; the vast holdings of the wine cellar (undoubtedly the best in Florence), as well as stellar service, dull the pain, however, when the bill is presented. | Average cost: €240 | Via Ghibellina 87, Santa Croce | 50122 | 055/242777 | Reservations essential Jacket required | Closed Sun., Mon., and Aug. No lunch.

Kome.
$ | JAPANESE | If you’re looking for a break from the ubiquitous ribollita, stop in at this eatery, which may be the only Japanese restaurant in the world to be housed in a 15th-century Renaissance palazzo. High, vaulted arches frame the Kaiten sushi conveyor belt. It’s Japanese food, cafeteria style: selections, priced according to the color of the plate, make their way around a bar, where diners pick whatever they find appealing. Those seeking a more substantial meal head to the second floor, where Japanese barbecue is prepared at your table. The minimalist basement provides a subtle but dramatic backdrop for a well-prepared cocktail. | Average cost: €30 | Via de’ Benci 41/r, Santa Croce | 50122 | 055/2008009.

La Giostra.
$$ | ITALIAN | This clubby spot, whose name means “carousel” in Italian, was created by the late Prince Dimitri Kunz d’Asburgo Lorena, and is now expertly run by his handsome twin sons. In perfect English they will describe favorite dishes, such as the taglierini con tartufo bianco, a decadently rich pasta with white truffles. The constantly changing menu has terrific vegetarian and vegan options. For dessert, this might be the only show in town with a sublime tiramisu and a wonderfully gooey Sacher torte. | Average cost: €40 | Borgo Pinti 12/r, Santa Croce | 50121 | 055/241341 | Reservations essential.

Osteria de’Benci.
$$ | ITALIAN | A few minutes from Santa Croce, this charming osteria serves some of the most eclectic food in Florence. Try the spaghetti degli eretici (in tomato sauce with fresh herbs). The grilled meats are justifiably famous; the carbonata is a succulent piece of grilled beef served rare. Weekly specials complement what’s happening in the market, and all of the food pairs beautifully with their wine list, which is heavy on things Tuscan. When it’s warm, you can dine outside with a view of the 13th-century tower belonging to the prestigious Alberti family. | Average cost: €42 | Via de’ Benci 11–13/r, Santa Croce | 50121 | 055/2344923 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and 2 wks in Aug.

The Oltrarno

Fuori Porta.
$ | WINE BAR | One of the oldest and best wine bars in Florence, this place serves cured meats and cheeses, as well as daily specials such as the sublime spaghetti al curry. Crostini and crostoni—grilled breads topped with a mélange of cheeses and meats—are the house specialty; the verdure sott’olio (vegetables with oil) are divine. All this can be enjoyed at rustic wooden tables, and outdoors when weather allows. One shortcoming is the staff, some of whom can be disinclined to explain the absolutely wonderful wine list. | Average cost: €15 | Via Monte alle Croci 10/r, San Niccolò | 50122 | 055/2342483.

Il Santo Bevitore.
$ | TUSCAN | Florentines and other lovers of good food flock to “The Holy Drinker” for tasty, well-priced dishes. Unpretentious white walls, dark wood furniture, and paper placemats provide the simple decor; start with the exceptional vegetables sott’olio (marinated in olive oil) or the terrina di fegatini (a creamy chicken-liver spread) before sampling any of the divine pastas, such as the fragrant spaghetti with shrimp sauce. Count yourself lucky if the extraordinary potato gratin, served in compact triangular wedges, is on the menu. The extensive wine list is well priced, and the well-informed staff is happy to explain it. | Average cost: €30 | Via Santo Spirito 64/66r, Santo Spirito | 50125 | 055/211264 | No lunch Sun.

La Casalinga.
$ | TUSCAN | Casalinga means “housewife,” and this place has the nostalgic charm of a 1950s kitchen with Tuscan comfort food to match. If you eat ribollita anywhere in Florence, eat it here—it couldn’t be more authentic. Mediocre paintings clutter the semipaneled walls, tables are set close together, and the place is usually jammed. The menu is long, portions are plentiful, and service is prompt and friendly. For dessert, the lemon sorbet perfectly caps off the meal. | Average cost: €16 | Via Michelozzi 9/r, Santo Spirito | 50125 | 055/218624 | Closed Sun., 1 wk at Christmas, and 3 wks in Aug.

La Vecchia Bettola.
$$ | TUSCAN | The name doesn’t exactly mean “old dive,” but it comes pretty close. This lively trattoria has been around only since 1979, but it feels as if it’s been a whole lot longer. Tile floors and simple wood tables and chairs provide the interior decoration, such as it is. The recipes come from “wise grandmothers” and celebrate Tuscan food in its glorious simplicity. Here prosciutto is sliced with a knife, portions of grilled meat are tender and ample, service is friendly, and the wine list is well priced and good. This place is worth a taxi ride, even though it’s just outside the centro storico. | Average cost: €32 | Viale Vasco Pratolini, Oltrarno | 50124 | 055/224158 | No credit cards.

Osteria Antica Mescita San Niccolò.
$ | TUSCAN | It’s always crowded, always good, and always inexpensive. The osteria is next to the church of San Niccolò, and if you sit in the lower part you’ll find yourself in what was once a chapel dating from the 11th century. The subtle but dramatic background is a nice complement to the food, which is simple Tuscan at its best. The pollo con limone is tasty pieces of chicken in a lemon-scented broth. In winter, try the spezzatino di cinghiale con aromi (wild boar stew with herbs). Reservations are advised. | Average cost: €20 | Via San Niccolò 60/r, San Niccolò | 50125 | 055/2342836 | Closed Sun. and Aug.

Beyond the City Center

Zibibbo.
$$ | TUSCAN | Benedetta Vitali, formerly of Florence’s famed Cibrèo, has a restaurant of her very own. It’s a welcome addition to the sometimes claustrophobic Florentine dining scene—particularly as you have to drive a few minutes out of town to get here. Off a quiet piazza, it has two intimate rooms with rustic, maroon-painted wood floors and a sloped ceiling. The tagliatelle al sugo d’anatra (wide pasta ribbons with duck sauce) are aromatic and flavorful, and crocchette di fave con salsa di yogurt (fava-bean croquettes with a lively yogurt sauce) are innovative and tasty. | Average cost: €40 | Via di Terzollina 3/r, northwest of city center | 50129 | 055/433383 | Closed Sun.

Wine Bars

All’Antico Vinaio.
$ | DELI | Florentines like to grab a quick bite to eat at this narrow little sandwich shop near the Uffizi. A handful of stools offer places to perch while devouring one of their very fine sandwiches; most folks, however, simply grab a sandwich, pour themselves a glass of inexpensive wine in a paper cup (more serious wines can be poured into glasses), and mingle on the pedestrians-only street in front. If porchetta (a very rich, deliciously fatty roasted pork) is on offer, don’t miss it. They also offer first-rate primi, which change daily. | Average cost: €6 | Via de’ Neri 65, Santa Croce | 50123 | No phone | No credit cards | Closed Sun.

Casa del Vino.
Come here for creative panini, such as sgrombri e carciofini sott’olio (mackerel and marinated baby artichokes), and an ever-changing list of significant wines by the glass. They also have a well-stocked collection of bottles to go, at more than fair prices. | Via dell’Ariento 16/r, San Lorenzo | 50123 | 055/215609.

Il Santino.
Though it has only four tables and four small stools at an equally small bar, Il Santino is blessed with a big wine list and superior cheeses, cured meats, and other delicacies to match. | Via Santo Spirito 60/r, Santo Spirito | 50125 | 055/2302820.

La Botte.
You can conduct your very own, custom-designed wine tasting at this little joint just across the street from the basilica of Santa Croce. Buy a card, then plug it into any of the dispensers which emit top-quality wine from all over Italy. | Via San Giuseppe 18/r, Santa Croce | 50100 | 055/2476420.

Le Volpi e l’Uva.
Le Volpi e l’Uva, off Piazza Santa Trinita, is an oenophile’s dream: the waiters pour significant wines by the glass and serve equally impressive cheeses and little sandwiches to go with them. | Piazza de’ Rossi 1, Palazzo Pitti | 50125 | 055/2398132.

Cafés

Cafés in Italy serve not only coffee concoctions and pastries but also drinks; some also serve light and inexpensive lunches. They open early in the morning and usually close around 8 pm.

Caffè Giacosa.
This cafe opens early in the morning for coffee, serves tasty light lunches, and makes excellent cocktails in the evening. | Via della Spada 10/r | 50123 | 055/2776328 | www.caffegiacosa.it.

Gran Caffè.
Down the street from the Accademia, Gran Caffè is a perfect stop for a marvelous panino or sweet while raving about the majesty of Michelangelo’s David. Do be aware that sitting at a table is more expensive at most cafés, and this place is particularly notorious in trying to get you to sit down. | Piazza San Marco 11/r | 50129 | 055/215833.

Procacci.
Classy Procacci is a Florentine institution dating to 1885; try one of the panini tartufati and swish it down with a glass of Prosecco. It’s closed Sunday. | Via Tornabuoni 64/r, Santa Maria Novella | 50123 | 055/211656.

Rivoire.
One of the best spots in Florence for people-watching is Rivoire. Stellar service, light snacks, and terrific aperitivi are the norm. It’s been around since the 1860s, and has been famous for its hot and cold chocolate (with or without cream) for over a century. | Via Vacchereccia 4/r | 50122 | 055/214412.

Gelaterie and Pasticcerie

Fodor’s Choice | Grom.
$ | ITALIAN | A stone’s throw from the Duomo, this is one of the best gelaterias in town. Flavors change frequently according to the season, so expect a fragrant gelato di cannella (cinnamon ice cream) in the winter and lively fresh fruit flavors in the summer. Though the original Grom hails from Turin (and there’s a Grom in New York City), this is still probably the best gelato in town. | Average cost: €3 | Via del Campanile, Duomo | 50122 | 055/216158 | No credit cards.

Salumerie

Delicatessens and gourmet food shops (salumerie) specialize in cured meats and cheeses; they can be great places to assemble a picnic or purchase dinner. Most are closed Sunday.

Fodor’s Choice | ‘ino.
$ | ITALIAN | Serving arguably the best panini (sandwiches) in town, proprietor Alessandro sources only the very best ingredients. Located right behind the Uffizi, ‘ino is a perfect place to grab a tasty sandwich and glass of wine before forging on to the next museum. | Average cost: €8 | Via dei Georgofili 3/r–7/r | 50122 | 055/219208.

Pegna.
$$$$ | ITALIAN | Looking for some cheddar cheese to pile in your panino? Pegna has been selling both Italian and non-Italian food since 1860. It’s closed Saturday afternoon in July and August, Wednesday afternoon September through June, and Sunday year-round. | Average cost: €100 | Via dello Studio 8, Duomo | 50122 | 055/282701.

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