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Markets | Shopping Districts | Specialty Stores

Window-shopping in Florence is like visiting an enormous contemporary-art gallery. Many of today’s greatest Italian artists are fashion designers, and most keep shops in Florence. Discerning shoppers may find bargains in the street markets. TIP Don’t buy any knockoff goods from any of the hawkers plying their fake Prada (or any other high-end designer) on the streets. It’s illegal, and fines are astronomical if the police happen to catch you. (The vendor doesn’t pay the fine, you do.)

Shops are generally open 9 to 1 and 3:30 to 7:30 and are closed Sunday and Monday mornings most of the year. Summer (June to September) hours are usually 9 to 1 and 4 to 8, and some shops close Saturday afternoon instead of Monday morning. When looking for addresses, you’ll see two color-coded numbering systems on each street. The red numbers are commercial addresses and are indicated, for example, as 31/r. The blue or black numbers are residential addresses. Most shops take major credit cards and ship purchases, but because of possible delays it’s wise to take your purchases with you.

Markets

Mercato Centrale.
This huge indoor food market offers a staggering selection of all things edible. | Piazza del Mercato Centrale, San Lorenzo | 50123.

Mercato di San Lorenzo.
The clothing and leather-goods stalls of the Mercato di San Lorenzo in the streets next to the church of San Lorenzo have bargains for shoppers on a budget.

Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio.
It’s possible to strike gold at the Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio, where clothing stalls abut the fruit and vegetables. | Piazza Ghiberti, off Via dei Macci, Santa Croce | 50122.

Mercato dei Fiori (flower market).
Every Thursday morning from September through June the covered loggia in Piazza della Repubblica hosts a Mercato dei Fiori; it’s awash in a lively riot of plants, flowers, and difficult-to-find herbs. | Piazza della Repubblica | 50123.

Mercato del Porcellino.
If you’re looking for cheery, inexpensive trinkets to take home, you might want to stop and roam through the stalls under the loggia of the Mercato del Porcellino. | Via Por Santa Maria at Via Porta Rossa, Piazza della Repubblica | 50100.

Piazza dei Ciompi flea market.
You can find bargains at the Piazza dei Ciompi flea market Monday through Saturday and on the last Sunday of the month. | Sant’Ambrogio, Santa Croce | 50122.

Santo Spirito flea market.
The second Sunday of every month brings the Santo Spirito flea market. On the third Sunday of the month, vendors at the Fierucola organic fest sell such delectables as honeys, jams, spice mixes, and fresh vegetables.

Shopping Districts

Florence’s most fashionable shops are concentrated in the center of town. The fanciest designer shops are mainly on Via Tornabuoni and Via della Vigna Nuova. The city’s largest concentrations of antiques shops are on Borgo Ognissanti and the Oltrarno’s Via Maggio. The Ponte Vecchio houses reputable but very expensive jewelry shops, as it has since the 16th century. The area near Santa Croce is the heart of the leather merchants’ district.

Specialty Stores

Books and Paper

Alberto Cozzi.
You’ll find an extensive line of Florentine papers and paper products at Alberto Cozzi. The artisans in the shop rebind and restore books and works on paper. Their hours are tricky, so it’s best to call first before stopping by. | Via del Parione 35/r, Santa Maria Novella | 50123 | 055/294968.

Giulio Giannini e Figlio.
One of Florence’s oldest paper-goods stores, Giulio Giannini e Figlio is the place to buy the marbleized stock, which comes in many shapes and sizes, from flat sheets to boxes and even pencils. | Piazza Pitti 37/r, Lungarno Sud | 50125 | 055/212621 | www.giuliogiannini.it.

Il Torchio.
Photograph albums, frames, diaries, and other objects dressed in handmade paper can be purchased at Il Torchio. The products are high-quality, and the prices lower than usual. | Via dei Bardi 17, San Niccolò | 50125 | 055/2342862.

La Tartaruga.
This innovative shop sells brightly colored, recycled paper in lots of guises (such as calendars and stationery), as well as toys for children. | Borgo Albizzi 60/r, Santa Croce | 50122 | 055/2340845.

Libreria Salimbeni.
Long one of Florence’s best art-book shops, Libreria Salimbeni has an outstanding selection. | Via Matteo Palmieri 14–16/r, Santa Croce | 50122 | 055/2340905 | www.liberiasalimbeni.com.

Pineider.
Though it has shops throughout the world, Pineider started out in Florence and still does all its printing here. Stationery and business cards are the mainstay, but the stores also sell fine leather desk accessories as well as a less stuffy, more lighthearted line of products. | Piazza della Signoria 13/r, Piazza della Signoria | 50122 | 055/284655.

Clothing

The usual fashion suspects—Prada, Gucci, Versace, to name but a few—all have shops in Florence.

Bernardo.
Come here for men’s trousers, cashmere sweaters, and shirts with details like mother-of-pearl buttons. | Via Porta Rossa 87/r, Piazza della Repubblica | 50123 | 055/283333.

Cabó.
Missoni knitwear is the main draw at Cabó. | Via Porta Rossa 77–79/r, Piazza della Repubblica | 50123 | 055/215774.

Diesel.
Trendy Diesel started in Vicenza; its gear is on the “must-have” list of many self-respecting Italian teens. | Via dei Lamberti 13/r, Piazza della Signoria | 0124 | 055/2399963 | www.diesel.com.

Emilio Pucci.
The aristocratic Marchese di Barsento, Emilio Pucci, became an international name in the late 1950s when the stretch ski clothes he designed for himself caught on with the dolce vita crowd—his pseudopsychedelic prints and “palazzo pajamas” became all the rage. | Via Tornabuoni 20–22/r, Santa Maria Novella | 50122 | 055/2658082.

Giorgio Vannini.
You can take home a custom-made suit or dress from Giorgio Vannini, who has a showroom for his prêt-à-porter designs. | Borgo Santi Apostoli 43/r, Santa Maria Novella | 50123 | 055/293037.

The intrepid shopper might want to check out some other, lesser-known shops.

Maçel.
Browse collections by lesser-known Italian designers, many of whom use the same factories as the A-list, at this women’s clothing shop. | Via Guicciardini 128/r, Palazzo Pitti | 50123 | 055/287355.

Patrizia Pepe.
Florentine designer Patrizia Pepe has body-conscious clothes perfect for all ages, especially for women with a tiny streak of rebelliousness. Women who are not size zero—or close to it—need not apply. | via Strozzi 11/19r, Duomo | 50123 | 055/2302518.

Piccolo Slam.
Members of the junior set desiring to look well clad, Florentine style, should consider stopping at Piccolo Slam. | Via dei Neri 9–11/r, Santa Croce | 50122 | 055/214504.

Principe.
This Florentine institution sells casual clothes for men, women, and children at far-from-casual prices. It also has a great housewares department. | Via del Sole 2, Santa Maria Novella | 50123 | 055/292764.

Spazio A.
For cutting-edge fashion, the fun and funky window displays at Spazio A merit a stop. The shop carries such well-known designers as Alberta Ferretti and Moschino, as well as lesser-known Italian, English, and French designers. | Via Porta Rossa 109–115/r, Piazza della Repubblica | 50123 | 055/212995 | www.aeffe.com.

Fragrances

Antica Officina del Farmacista Dr. Vranjes.
Aromatherapy has been elevated to an art form at Antica Officina del Farmacista Dr. Vranjes. Dr. Vranjes makes scents for the body and for the house. | Borgo La Croce 44/r, Santa Croce | 50123 | 055/241748 | www.drvranjes.it | Via San Gallo 63/r | 50129 | 055/494537.

Lorenzo Villoresi.
Proprietor Lorenzo Villoresi makes one-of-a-kind fragrances, which he develops after meeting with you. Such personalized attention does not come cheap. | Via de’Bardi 14, Lungarno Sud | 50125 | 055/2341187 | www.lorenzovilloresi.com.

Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella.
The essence of a Florentine holiday is captured in the sachets of the Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, an Art Nouveau emporium of herbal cosmetics and soaps that are made following centuries-old recipes created by friars. It celebrated its 400th birthday in 2012. | Via della Scala 16, Santa Maria Novella | 50123 | 055/216276 | www.smnovella.it.

Jewelry

Angela Caputi.
Angela Caputi wows Florentine cognoscenti with her highly creative, often outsized plastic jewelry. A small, but equally creative, collection of women’s clothing made of fine fabrics is also on offer. | Borgo Santi Apostoli 44/46 | 50123 | 055/292993.

Carlo Piccini.
Still in operation after several generations, Carlo Piccini sells antique jewelry and makes pieces to order; you can also get old jewelry reset here. | Ponte Vecchio 31/r, Piazza della Signoria | 50125 | 055/292030 | www.carlopiccini.com.

Cassetti.
This jeweler combines precious and semiprecious stones and metals in contemporary settings. | Ponte Vecchio 54/r, Piazza della Signoria | 50125 | 055/2396028.

Gatto Bianco.
This contemporary jeweler has breathtakingly beautiful pieces worked in semiprecious and precious stones. | Borgo Santi Apostoli 12/r, Santa Maria Novella | 50123 | 055/282989.

Oro Due.
Gold jewelry and other beauteous objects are priced according to the level of craftsmanship and the price of gold bullion that day at Oro Due. | Via Lambertesca 12/r, Piazza della Signoria | 50123 | 055/292143.

Penko.
Renaissance goldsmiths provide the inspiration for this dazzling jewelry with a contemporary feel. | Via F. Zannetti 14/16r, Duomo | 50100 | 055/211661.

Tiffany.
One of Florence’s oldest jewelers, Tiffany has supplied Italian (and other) royalty with finely crafted gems for centuries. Its selection of antique-looking classics has been updated with a selection of contemporary silver. | Via Tornabuoni 25/r, Santa Maria Novella | 50123 | 055/215506.

Linens and Fabrics

Loretta Caponi.
Synonymous with Florentine embroidery, Loretta Caponi’s luxury lace, linens, and lingerie have earned the eponymous signora worldwide renown. | Piazza Antinori 4/r, Santa Maria Novella | 50123 | 055/213668.

Valli.
Gifted seamstresses (and seamsters) should look no further than this place, which sells sumptuous silks, beaded fabrics, lace, wool, and tweeds by the meter. | Via della Vigna Nuova 81/r, Santa Maria Novella | 50100 | 055/282485 | www.tessutialtamodavalli.it.

Outlets

For bargains on Italian designer clothing, you need to leave the city.

Barberino Designer Outlet.
Prada, Pollini, Missoni, and Bruno Magli, among others, are all found at Barberino Designer Outlet. To get here, take the A1 to the Barberino di Mugello exit, and follow signs to the mall. | Via Meucci snc | 50031 | 055/842161 | www.mercatoglenn.it.

Mall.
One-stop bargain shopping awaits at the Mall, where the stores sell goods by such names as Bottega Veneta, Giorgio Armani, Loro Piana, Sergio Rossi, and Yves St. Laurent. | Via Europa 8 | 50060 | 055/8657775 | www.themall.it.

Prada Outlet.
Cognoscenti drive 45 minutes (or take the train to Montevarchi, and then a taxi) to the Prada Outlet. | Levanella Spacceo, Estrada Statale 69, | Montevarchi | 52025 | 055/91911.

Shoes and Leather Accessories

Casadei.
The ultimate fine leathers are crafted into classic shapes at Casadei, winding up as women’s shoes and bags. | Via Tornabuoni 33/r, Santa Maria Novella | 50123 | 055/287240 | www.casadei.com.

Cellerini.
In a city where it seems just about everybody wears an expensive leather jacket, Cellerini is an institution. | Via del Sole 37/r, Santa Maria Novella | 50123 | 055/282533 | www.cellerini.it.

Ferragamo.
The classy Ferragamo, in a 13th-century palazzo, displays designer clothing and accessories, though elegant footwear still underlies the Ferragamo success. | Via Tornabuoni 2/r, Santa Maria Novella | 50123 | 055/292123.

Furla.
Internationally renowned, Furla makes beautiful leather bags, shoes, and wallets in up-to-the-minute designs. | Via Calzaiuoli 47/r, Piazza della Repubblica | 50122 | 055/2382883.

Giotti.
You’ll find a full line of leather goods, including clothing, at Giotti. | Piazza Ognissanti 3–4/r, Lungarno Nord | 50123 | 055/294265.

Madova.
Complete your winter wardrobe with a pair of high-quality leather gloves, available in a rainbow of colors and a choice of linings (silk, cashmere, and unlined) from Madova. | Via Guicciardini 1/r, Palazzo Pitti | 50125 | 055/2396526.

Paolo Carandini.
Stop in here for exquisite leather objects such as picture frames, jewelry boxes, and desk accessories. | Borgo Allegri 17/r, Santa Croce | 50122 | 055/245397.

Scuola del Cuoio.
A consortium of leatherworkers plies its trade at La Scuola del Cuoio (Leather School), in the former dormitory of the convent of Santa Croce; high-quality, fairly priced jackets, belts, and purses are sold here. | Piazza Santa Croce 16 | 50122 | 055/244533 | www.scuoladelcuoio.com.

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