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Todi | Orvieto | Narni | Valnerina
Orvieto, built on a tufa mount, produces one of Italy’s favorite white wines and has one of the country’s greatest cathedrals and most compelling fresco cycles. Nearby Narni and Todi are pleasant medieval hill towns. The former stands over a steep gorge, its Roman pedigree evident in dark alleyways and winding streets; the latter is a fairy-tale village with incomparable views and one of Italy’s most perfect piazzas.
Todi
34 km (22 miles) south of Perugia, 34 km (22 miles) east of Orvieto.
As you stand on Piazza del Popolo, looking out onto the Tiber Valley below, it’s easy to see why Todi is often described as Umbria’s prettiest hill town. Legend has it that the town was founded by the Umbri, who followed an eagle who had stolen a tablecloth. They liked this lofty perch so much that they settled here for good. The eagle is now perched on the insignia of the medieval palaces in the main piazza.
Getting Here
Todi is best reached by car, as the town’s two train stations are way down the hill and connected to the center by infrequent bus service. From Perugia, follow the E45 toward Rome. Take the Todi/Orvieto exit, then follow the SS79bis into Todi. The drive takes around 40 minutes.
Visitor Information
Todi Tourism Office.
Piazza del Popolo 38 | 06059 | 075/8942526 | www.regioneumbria.eu.
Exploring Todi
Piazza del Popolo.
Built above the Roman Forum, Piazza del Popolo is Todi’s high point, a model of spatial harmony with stunning views onto the surrounding countryside. In the best medieval tradition, the square was conceived to house both the temporal and the spiritual centers of power.
Duomo.
On one end of the Piazza del Popolo is the 12th-century Romanesque-Gothic Duomo, which was built over the site of a Roman temple. The simple facade is enlivened by a finely carved rose window. Look up at that window as you step inside and you’ll notice its peculiarity: each “petal” of the rose has a cherub’s face in the stained glass. Take a close look at the capitals of the double columns with pilasters: perched between the acanthus leaves are charming medieval
sculptures of saints—Peter with his keys, George and the dragon, and so on. You can see the rich brown tones of the wooden choir near the altar, but unless you have binoculars or request special permission in advance, you can’t get close enough to see all the exquisite detail in this Renaissance masterpiece of woodworking (1521–30). The severe, solid mass of the Duomo is mirrored by the Palazzo dei Priori (1595–97) across the way. | Piazza del
Popolo | 06059 | 075/8943041 | Daily 8–1 and 3–6.
Where to Eat and Stay in Todi
Ristorante Umbria.
$ | UMBRIAN | Todi’s most popular restaurant for more than four decades, the Umbria is reliable for its sturdy country food and its wonderful view from the terrace. Since it has only 16 tables outside, make sure you reserve ahead. In winter, try legume soup, homemade pasta with truffles, or palombaccio alla ghiotta (roasted squab). Steaks, accompanied by a rich dark-brown wine sauce, are good as well. | Average cost: €18 | Via San Bonaventura 13 | 06059 | 075/8942737 | Closed Tues.
La Fattoria di Vibio.
$$ | Slow life is the motto for this rustic chic agriturismo in the hills near Todi. The various cottages are surrounded by pristine grounds and the attentive staff make you feel at home. The position is excellent for visiting southern Umbria. Pros: homely atmosphere; spa center. Cons: slightly isolated; road access difficult in the winter. | Rooms from: €180 | Localita Buchella, 9,
Doglio | 06057 | 0758796205 | www.fattoriadivibio.com | 14 rooms | Closed Jan. 15–Feb. 15 | Breakfast.
San Lorenzo 3.
$ | Surrounded by antique furniture, paintings, and period knickknacks, you get a sense of a place more in tune with the 19th than the 21st century. This hotel doesn’t pamper you with modern comforts; only three of the six rooms have private bathrooms, but all share a magnificent view over the valleys and hills to the north of the town. Don’t be put off by the rather dark entrance to the building: climb the long flight of stairs that leads up to this intriguing
guesthouse. Pros: delightful old-world atmosphere; excellent central location. Cons: few modern amenities; basic furnishings; some shared bathrooms. TripAdvisor: “beautiful and comfortable,” “very magical,” “a real Italian experience.” | Rooms from: €110 | Via San Lorenzo 3 | 06059 | 075/8944555 | www.sanlorenzo3.it | 6 rooms, 3 with bath | No credit cards | Closed Jan. and Feb. | Breakfast.
Orvieto
30 km (19 miles) southwest of Todi, 81 km (51 miles) west of Spoleto.
Carved out of an enormous plateau of volcanic rock high above a green valley, Orvieto has natural defenses that made the high walls seen in many Umbrian towns unnecessary. The Etruscans were the first to settle here, digging a honeycombed network of more than 1,200 wells and storage caves out of the soft stone. The Romans attacked, sacked, and destroyed the city in 283 BC; since then, it has grown up out of the rock into an enchanting maze of alleys and squares. Orvieto was solidly Guelph in the Middle Ages, and for several hundred years popes sought refuge in the city, at times needing protection from their enemies, at times seeking respite from the summer heat of Rome.
When painting his frescoes inside the Duomo, Luca Signorelli asked that part of his contract be paid in Orvietan wine, and he was neither the first nor the last to appreciate the region’s popular white. In past times the caves carved underneath the town were used to ferment the Trebbiano grapes used in making Orvieto Classico; now local wine production has moved out to more traditional vineyards, but you can still while away the afternoon in tastings at any number of shops in town.
Getting Here
Orvieto is well connected by train to Rome, Florence, and Perugia. It’s also adjacent to the A1 Superstrada that runs between Florence and Rome. Parking areas in the upper town tend to be crowded. A better idea is to follow the signs for the Porta Orvetiana parking lot, then take the funicular that carries people up the hill.
Visitor Information
Orvieto Tourism Office.
Piazza del Duomo 24 | 05018 | 0763/341772 | www.regioneumbria.eu.
A Carta Orvieto Unica (single ticket) is expensive but a great deal if you want to visit everything; for €18 you get admission to the three major sights in town—Cappella di San Brizio (at the Duomo), Museo Claudio Faina, and Orvieto Underground —along with entry to the Torre del Moro; with views of Orvieto, plus a combination bus-funicular pass or five hours of free parking.
Exploring Orvieto
Fodor’s Choice |
Duomo.
Orvieto’s Duomo is, quite simply, stunning. The church was built to commemorate the Miracle at Bolsena. In 1263 a young priest who questioned the miracle of transubstantiation (in which the Communion bread and wine become the flesh and blood of Christ) was saying mass at nearby Lago di Bolsena. His doubts were put to rest, however, when a wafer he had just blessed suddenly started to drip blood, staining the linen covering the altar. The cloth and the host were taken to
the pope, who proclaimed a miracle and a year later provided for a new religious holiday—the Feast of Corpus Domini. Thirty years later, construction began on a duomo to celebrate the miracle and house the stained altar cloth.
It’s thought that Arnolfo di Cambio (circa 1245–1302), the famous builder of the Duomo in Florence, was given the initial commission for the Duomo, but the project was soon taken over by Lorenzo Maitani (circa 1275–1330), who consolidated the structure and designed the monumental facade. Maitani also made the bas-relief panels between the doorways, which graphically tell the story of the Creation (on the left) and the Last Judgment (on the right). The lower registers, now protected by Plexiglas, succeed in conveying the horrors of hell as few other works of art manage to do, an effect made all the more powerful by the worn gray marble. Above, gold mosaics are framed by finely detailed Gothic decoration.
Inside, the cathedral is rather vast and empty; the major works are in the transepts. To the left is the Cappella del Corporale, where the square linen cloth (corporale) is kept in a golden reliquary that’s modeled on the cathedral and inlaid with enamel scenes of the miracle. The cloth is removed for public viewing on Easter and on Corpus Domini (the ninth Sunday after Easter). In the right transept is the Cappella di San Brizio, or Cappella Nuova. In this chapel is one of Italy’s greatest fresco cycles, notable for its influence on Michelangelo’s Last Judgment, as well as for the extraordinary beauty of the figuration. In these works, a few by Fra Angelico and the majority by Luca Signorelli, the damned fall to hell, demons breathe fire and blood, and Christians are martyred. Some scenes are heavily influenced by the imagery in Dante’s (1265–1321) Divine Comedy. | Piazza del Duomo | 05018 | 0763/342477 | Cappella Nuova €4 | Mar–Oct., daily 9:30–7:30; Nov.–Feb., daily 9:30–1 and 2:30–5.
Museo Archeologico Claudio Faina.
This superb private collection, beautifully arranged and presented, goes far beyond the usual museum offerings of a scattering of local remains. The collection is particularly rich in Greek- and Etruscan-era pottery, from large Attic amphorae (6th–4th century BC) to Attic black- and red-figure pieces to Etruscan bucchero (dark-reddish clay) vases. Other interesting pieces in the collection include a 6th-century sarcophagus and a substantial
display of Roman-era coins. | Piazza del Duomo 29 | 05018 | 0763/341511 | www.museofaina.it | €4.50 | Apr.–Sept., daily 10–5; Oct.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–6.
Orvieto Underground.
More than just about any other town, Orvieto has grown from its own foundations—if one were to remove from present-day Orvieto all the building materials that were dug up from below, there would hardly be a building left standing. The Etruscans, the Romans, and those who followed dug into the tufa (the same soft volcanic rock from which catacombs were made), and over the centuries created more than 1,000 separate cisterns, caves, secret passages, storage areas, and
production areas for wine and olive oil. Some of the tufa removed was used as building blocks for the city that exists today, and some was partly ground into pozzolana, which was made into mortar. The most thorough Orvieto Underground tour (Orvieto tourism office, | Piazza del Duomo 24 | 0763/341772) is run daily at 11, 12:15, 4, and
5:15. (In February tours are given only on weekends.) Admission for the hour-long English tour is €6.
Pozzo della Cava. If you’re short on time but still want a look at what it was like in the cisterns and caves beneath the city, head for the Pozzo della Cava, an Etruscan well for spring water. It’s open Tuesday through Friday from 9 to 8, and costs €3. | Via della Cava 28 | 05018 | 0763/342373.
Where to Eat in Orvieto
The streets around the Duomo are lined with all types of bars and restaurants where you can eat simple or elaborate food and try wines by the glass.
Fodor’s Choice |
Il Giglio D’Oro.
$ | UMBRIAN | A great view of the Duomo is coupled with superb food. Eggplant is transformed into an elegant custard with black truffles in the sformatino di melenzane con vellutata al tartuffo nero. Pastas, like ombrichelli al pesto umbro, are traditional, but perhaps with a new twist like fresh coriander leaves instead of the usual basil. Lamb roasted in a crust of bread is delicately
seasoned with a tomato cream sauce. The wine cellar includes some rare vintages. | Average cost: €15 | Piazza Duomo 8 | 05018 | 0763/341903 | Closed Wed.
Le Grotte del Funaro.
$ | UMBRIAN | If you can’t do the official hour-long tour of Underground Orvieto, dine here instead, inside tufa caves under central Orvieto, where the two windows have splendid views of the hilly countryside during the day. The traditional Umbrian food is reliably good, with simple grilled meats and vegetables and pizzas. Oddly, the food is outclassed by an extensive wine list, with top local and Italian labels and quite a few rare
vintages. | Average cost: €16 | Via Ripa Serancia 41 | 05018 | 0763/343276 | Reservations essential | Closed 1 wk in July.
Trattoria La Grotta.
$ | UMBRIAN | The owner has been in this location for more than 20 years, and locals are still fond of him. He has attracted a steady American clientele without losing his touch with homemade pasta, perhaps with a duck or wild-boar sauce. Roast lamb, veal, and pork are all good, and the desserts are homemade. Franco knows the local wines well and has a carefully selected list, including some from smaller but excellent wineries, so ask about
them. | Average cost: €17 | Via Luca Signorelli 5 | 05018 | 0763/341348 | Closed Tues.
Where to Stay in Orvieto
Hotel La Badia.
$$ | One of the region’s best-known country hotels occupies a 12th-century monastery. Vaulted ceilings and exposed stone walls establish the rustic elegance in the guest rooms, which have beamed ceilings and polished terra-cotta floors covered with rugs. The rolling park around the hotel provides wonderful views of the valley. It’s 4 km (2½ miles) south of Orvieto. Pros: elegant atmosphere; fine views. Cons:
slightly overpriced; need a car to get around. | Rooms from: €160 | Località La Badia, | Orvieto Scalo | 05019 | 0763/301959 | www.labadiahotel.it | 18 rooms, 9 suites | Closed Jan. and Feb. | Breakfast.
Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini.
$$ | This hotel is often preferred by local winemakers and other professionals for its updated look with inviting lobby areas and a convenient location near the church of San Giovanni. From here, it’s a lovely short walk past Piazza della Repubblica to the Duomo. Pros: peaceful atmosphere; efficient staff; good location. Cons: unattractive building; slightly overpriced. TripAdvisor: “good service,” “very clean and nice rooms,” “wonderful people.” | Rooms from: €154 | Piazza Ranieri 36 | 05018 | 0763/341743 | www.hotelpiccolomini.it | 28 rooms, 3 suites | Breakfast.
Hiking the Umbrian Hills
Magnificent scenery makes the heart of Italy excellent walking, hiking, and mountaineering country. In Umbria, the area around Spoleto is particularly good; several pleasant, easy, and well-signed trails begin at the far end of the Ponte alle Torri bridge over Monteluco. From Cannara, an easy half-hour walk leads to the fields of Pian d’Arca, the site of Saint Francis’s sermon to the birds. For slightly more arduous walks, you can follow the saint’s path, uphill from Assisi to the Eremo delle Carceri, and then continue along the trails that crisscross Monte Subasio. At 4,250 feet, the Subasio’s treeless summit affords views of Assisi, Perugia, far-off Gubbio, and the distant mountain ranges of Abruzzo.
For even more challenging hiking, the northern reaches of the Valnerina are exceptional; the mountains around Norcia should not be missed. Throughout Umbria and the Marches, you’ll find that most recognized walking and hiking trails are marked with the distinctive red-and-white blazes of the Club Alpino Italiano. Tourist offices are a good source for walking and climbing itineraries to suit all ages and levels of ability, while bookstores, tabacchi (tobacconists), and edicole (newsstands) often have maps and hiking guides. Depending on the length and location of your walk, it can be important that you have comfortable walking shoes or boots, appropriate attire, and plenty of water to drink.
Narni
13 km (8 miles) southwest of Terni, 46 km (29 miles) southeast of Orvieto.
Once a bustling and important town at a major crossroads on the Via Flaminia, Narni is now a quiet backwater with only the occasional tourist invading its hilltop streets. Modern development is kept out of sight in the new town of Narni Scalo, below. This means that you’ll find the older neighborhood safely preserved behind, and in the case of Narni’s subterranean Roman ruins, beneath, the town’s sturdy walls.
Getting Here
From Perugia, take the E45 highway toward Rome. Merge onto the SS675, then take the exit to San Gemini and follow signs for Narni Scalo. The drive takes around 1½ hours. There are also regular trains from Perugia.
Visitor Information
Terni Tourism Office.
Stop here for information about Narni and a number of other smaller towns. | Via Cassian Bon 4,
Terni | 05100 | 0744/423047 | www.regioneumbria.eu.
Exploring Narni
Roman Aqueduct.
You can take a unique tour of Narni’s underground Roman aqueduct—the only one open to the public in all of Italy—but it’s not for the claustrophobic. Contact Narni Sotterranea at least 10 days ahead to book a visit. | Narni Sotterranea,
Via San Bernardo 12 | 05035 | 0744/722292 | www.narnisotterranea.it | €20 | Apr.–Oct., weekends by appointment.
Where to Eat in Narni
Il Cavallino.
$ | UMBRIAN | Run by the third generation of the Bussetti family, this trattoria is south of Narni on the Via Flaminia. The most dependable menu selections are the grilled meats. Rabbit roasted with rosemary and sage and juicy grilled T-bone steaks are house favorites; in winter, phone ahead to request the wild pigeon. The wine list has a limited selection of dependable local varieties. | Average cost: €14 |
Via Flaminia Romana 220,
3 km (2 miles) south of center | 05035 | 0744/761020 | Closed Tues. and Dec. 20–26.
Valnerina
Terni is 13 km (8 miles) northeast of Narni, 27 km (17 miles) southeast of Spoleto.
The Valnerina (the valley of the River Nera, to the east of Spoleto) is the most beautiful of central Italy’s many well-kept secrets. The twisting roads that serve the rugged landscape are poor, but the drive is well worth the effort for its forgotten medieval villages and dramatic mountain scenery.
Getting Here
You can head into the area from Terni on the S209, or on the SP395bis north of Spoleto, which links the Via Flaminia (S3) with the middle reaches of the Nera Valley through a tunnel.
Visitor Information
Terni Tourism Office.
Via Cassian Bon 4,
Terni | 05100 | 0744/423047 | www.regioneumbria.eu.
Exploring Valnerina
Cascata delle Marmore.
The road east of Terni (SS Valnerina) leads 10 km (6 miles) to the Cascata delle Marmore (Waterfalls of Marmore), which, at 541 feet, are the highest in Europe. A canal was dug by the Romans in the 3rd century BC to prevent flooding in the nearby agricultural plains. Nowadays the waters are often diverted to provide hydroelectric power for Terni, reducing the roaring falls to an unimpressive trickle, so check with the information office at the falls (there’s a timetable
on their website) or with Terni’s tourist office before heading here. On summer evenings, when the falls are in full spate, the cascading water is floodlighted to striking effect. The falls are usually at their most energetic at midday and at around 4 pm. This is a good place for hiking, except in December and January, when most trails may be closed. | SP79 10 km (6 miles) east of Terni | 05100 | 0744/62982 | www.marmorefalls.it | €8 | May, weekends noon–1 and 4–5; June–Aug., daily 11am–10 pm; mid-Mar.–Apr. and Sept., weekends noon–9; Jan.–mid-Mar., weekends noon–4.
Norcia.
The birthplace of Saint Benedict, Norcia is best known for its Umbrian pork and truffles. Norcia exports truffles to France and hosts a truffle festival, the Sagra del Tartufo, every February. The surrounding mountains provide spectacular hiking. | 67 km (42 miles) northeast of Terni | 06046.
Piano Grande.
A mountain plain 25 km (15 miles) to the northeast of the valley, Piano Grande is a hang glider’s paradise and a wonderful place for a picnic or to fly a kite. It’s also nationally famous for the quality of the lentils grown here, which are a traditional part of every Italian New Year’s feast.
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