Tour 8: Excursion to Yorkshire Coast
Heading northeast from York, this 76 mile (122km) one- or two-day tour takes you to the lovely Yorkshire coast, taking in historic Whitby and traditional seaside town Scarborough
Highlights
This excursion showcases Yorkshire’s dramatically varied landscapes, taking you over the peaceful North York Moors to the coast, which is dotted with a mix of dramatic headlands, quiet bays, fishing villages, historic towns and lively resorts.
Scarborough beach and castle.
APA William Shaw
KIRKHAM PRIORY
From York, head northeast on the A64. After 15 miles (24km), a minor road leads to Kirkham Priory 1 [map] (www.english-heritage.org.uk; Apr–July and Sept, Mon, Thu–Sun 10am–5pm, Aug daily 10am–6pm, Oct–Mar Sat–Sun 10am–4pm; charge). This 12th-century Augustinian monastery is now a picturesque ruin on the Derwent riverbank, but during WWII it was a training area for troops.
EDEN CAMP
Back on the A64, head towards Malton. Close by on the left is Eden Camp 2 [map] (tel: 01653 697777; www.edencamp.co.uk; daily 10am–5pm; charge), a former WWII PoW camp converted to bring to life different aspects of the war in a family-friendly way.
Then take a left onto the A169 to Pickering 3 [map], a charming market town with a ruined Norman castle.
THE YORKSHIRE COAST
If you have time for a detour, bear left before reaching Whitby and go north along the coast, on the A174, to Staithes 4 [map]. Once a major fishing port, the town is famed for its link to Captain James Cook, born nearby. Its small heritage centre (tel: 01947 841454; daily 10am–5pm) is filled with information on his voyages.
Return to Whitby 5 [map], an old whaling port, where there are more memories of Captain Cook, who trained as a seaman here and lodged with Captain John Walker in a house on the harbour, now the Captain Cook Memorial Museum (www.cookmuseumwhitby.co.uk; daily mid-Feb–Mar 11am–3pm, Apr–Oct 9.45am–5pm; charge). You’ll see some of his letters amongst other memorabilia. Cook sailed from Whitby on his famous voyage to Australia.
Dracula’s Haunt
Whitby provided Bram Stoker with much of the inspiration for his Gothic horror novel Dracula. He supposedly came across the name ‘Dracula’ in a book in the local library, and the town is the scene for the first meeting between Lucy and Dracula. A memorial bench commemorates the spot where Bram Stoker admired the view of the harbour, Abbey and church. Every April and October, Whitby organises a Goth Weekend.
The town and harbour are cramped in a steep river valley overlooked by the ruins of the Abbey of St Hilda (Apr–Sept daily 10am–6pm, Oct Thu–Mon 10am–5pm, Nov–Mar Sat–Sun 10am–4pm, with exceptions; charge). Founded around AD657, the Abbey was deserted after the Dissolution and stones from it used to build a mansion, now an interactive visitor centre.
South of Whitby on the A171, take the B1447 to Robin Hood’s Bay 6 [map], nestled at the foot of a steep cliff road. The village has lost scores of its houses to the sea over the last two centuries. This was once a smugglers’ haunt, with secret passageways and hideaways. It now attracts fossil-hunters: guided fossil walks are organised by the North Yorks Geology Trust (tel: 01947 881000).
Return to the A171 and south to bustling Scarborough 7 [map], a former spa town with two bays, a harbour and a castle. The South Bay has a typically brash English seafront.
At the Rotunda Museum (tel: 01723 353665; www.rotundamuseum.co.uk; Tue–Sun 10am–5pm; charge), the 19th-century creation of William Smith, father of English geology, exhibits bring to life the dinosaur coast, and there are family-friendly fossil-hunting events. Nearby, the Art Gallery in an Italianate villa has an eclectic collection.
Railway Fun
The 18-mile (29km) North Yorkshire Moors Railway steam train route (www.nymr.co.uk) runs from Pickering to Grosmont and on some days to Whitby. Day Rover tickets allow you to get on and off to explore pretty villages such as Goathland.
The town has an enviable theatrical reputation built around Alan Ayckbourn, the local-born playwright. From Scarborough you can head south to Filey, a quieter holiday town. Nearby Flamborough Head is popular with birdwatchers. To return back to York, pick up the A64 southbound.
Eating Out
Whitby
Green’s of Whitby
13 Bridge Street; tel: 01947 600284; www.greensofwhitby.com; Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 6.30–9.30pm, Sat–Sun noon–10pm.
Seafood is a speciality, with a daily menu of local fish such as Whitby squid, scallops and sea bass. £££
Scarborough
The Green Room
138 Victoria Street; tel: 01723 501801; www.thegreenroomrestaurant.com; Tue, Wed 5.30–9pm, Thu until 9.30pm, Fri, Sat until 10pm.
Imaginative cooking using local produce such as salmon or mackerel for starters. ££
Lanterna
33 Queen Street; tel: 01723 363616; www.lanterna-ristorante.co.uk; Mon–Sat 7–9.30pm.
Lanterna offers Italian favourites with a Piedmontese flavour: risottos, truffle dishes, as well as local fish. £££