THE QUICK PANTRY
CANNED BEANS
While we believe dried beans offer superior flavor and texture, most require presoaking and long cooking times—not a good option for the weeknight table. Canned beans are the convenient alternative, and we’ve had plenty of success using them in a variety of recipes, like our White Bean Gratin and fast Skillet Tamale Pie. (For lots of ways to use canned beans, click here.) However, flavor and texture can vary widely among brands, so for the best results, stick with our favorites, listed below, when possible.
IN THIS SECTION:
BLACK BEANS
Most canned black beans have three main ingredients: beans, water, and salt. Still, we found when we sampled six national brands that taste can vary wildly. Our tasters had a strong preference for well-seasoned beans, but texture was important, too. The “clean,” “mild,” and “slightly earthy” flavor of Bush’s Best Black Beans, along with their “firm,” “almost al dente” texture made them our winner.
WHITE BEANS
Whether labeled cannellini, great Northern, or navy, white beans are versatile and good to have on hand. We found nationally available varieties ranged from sweet to bland and chalky to mushy. Our favorite was Westbrae Natural Organic Great Northern Beans, left, which won for their earthy flavor and creamy texture. Progresso Cannellini Beans, right, took second; tasters liked their plump shape and sweet, slightly salty flavor.
CHICKPEAS
Popular particularly in Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, and Indian cuisines, canned chickpeas are a favorite among canned beans in the test kitchen since they hold up well to cooking. Our tasters found that many brands are bland or have bitter and metallic flavors. They preferred those that were well seasoned and had a creamy yet “al dente” texture. Pastene Chickpeas came out on top.
KIDNEY BEANS
These firm, full-flavored beans are a classic in chili and are often found in variations on red beans and rice. Tasting them straight from the can and in chili, we noticed substantial differences in texture and flavor among brands. While some tasted mushy, chalky, and bland, Goya Dark Kidney Beans were described as beautiful and plump with a sweet, strong bean flavor.
REFRIED BEANS
Traditional frijoles refritos start with dried pinto beans that are cooked, “fried well” in lard, then mashed. While making them isn’t hard, it is time-consuming. We sampled six brands of canned refried beans to determine if any were worth buying. In the end, none could replace homemade, but we recommend Taco Bell Home Originals Refried Beans with reservations, acceptable to use when pressed for time.
WHY WE RINSE CANNED BEANS
Canned beans are made by pressure-cooking dried beans directly in the can with water, salt, and preservatives. As the beans cook, starches and proteins leach into the liquid, thickening it. To find out if rinsing the beans is really necessary, we used canned beans in two recipes: chickpeas for hummus and red kidney beans for chili. Tasters found no difference in the chili; there are so many bold flavors and contrasting textures in this dish that rinsing the beans didn’t matter. However, we detected notable differences in the hummus. Most tasters thought the version with rinsed beans was brighter in flavor and less pasty than the version with unrinsed beans. So while rinsing the beans may not be necessary for a robust dish like chili, a thick, salty bean liquid does have the potential to throw a simpler recipe off-kilter. And rinsing beans takes only a few seconds, so there’s no excuse not to do it.