THE QUICK PANTRY
SPICES
Just one or two spices can add depth and flavor to fast-cooking dishes. But a jar of spices isn’t a pantry staple that stays good forever; all too often home cooks reach for old, stale bottles of spices that essentially have turned into expensive dust. Like many a pantry staple, spices can go rancid or stale. Here are a few tips that can help you get the most from your spice rack.
IN THIS SECTION:
BUYING TIPS
The longer a spice sits, the more its flavor will fade, so buy spices in small quantities, preferably from places with high turnover, and check for an expiration date. In the test kitchen, we go through chili powder, cinnamon, and paprika fairly quickly; all others we recommend buying on a need-to-use basis. While preground spices are convenient, it’s worth buying some spices, such as peppercorns and nutmeg, whole and grinding or grating them yourself just before using.
SPICE STORAGE
Don’t store spices and herbs on the counter close to the stove since heat, as well as light and moisture, shortens their shelf life. Keep them in a cool, dark, dry place in well-sealed containers.
BRINGING OUT THE FLAVOR
In the test kitchen, we often like to bloom spices, a technique that removes any raw edge or dustiness from spices and intensifies their flavor. To bloom spices, cook them briefly on the stovetop in a little oil or butter (this also works in the microwave). Many spices are oil- rather than water-soluble, so as they dissolve, their flavorful essential oils are released from a solid state into solution form, where they mix and interact, thereby producing a more complex flavor. Often we will bloom spices in oil along with a few other ingredients at the same time. Of course you have to be careful to avoid burning them.
CHECKING FOR FRESHNESS
Grind or finely grate whole spices onto parchment or waxed paper or sprinkle a small amount into the palm of your hand and take a whiff. If the spice releases a lively aroma, it’s still good to go. If the aroma and color have faded, it’s time to restock. It is helpful to label them with the date opened; whole spices are generally good for two years and ground spices for one year.
NOT JUST FOR JAVA
For those times when you do need to grind your own spices, we think a blade-type electric coffee grinder works best. The Krups Fast-Touch Coffee Mill, $19, has a deep bowl and is incredibly easy to operate, plus it delivers an exceptionally fine grind. And so our spices don’t end up tasting like coffee, we keep two on hand—one for coffee beans, and one for spices.
EASY SEASONING
Everyone should have a good pepper mill in their kitchen. Our favorite mill is the Unicorn Magnum Plus Pepper Mill, $45. After trying out seven models, testers ranked this one tops. They found this pepper mill easy to fill and use, and were pleased with how quickly it produced an abundance of perfectly ground pepper.
