I learned this trick for preparing salmon from the French Laundry chef Thomas Keller. This dish is also delicious made with a pound of fresh pea sprouts instead of the English peas. Just toss them in at the end and cook only until they begin to wilt.
6 SERVINGS
2 |
pounds center-cut salmon fillet, in one piece |
|
Salt |
2 |
slices bacon |
½ |
pound crimini mushrooms |
3 |
shallots, minced 6 sprigs thyme |
½ |
cup dry white wine |
¼ |
cup heavy cream |
1 |
pound shelled English peas (fresh or frozen) |
1–2 |
tablespoons vegetable oil |
1 |
tablespoon butter |
Place the salmon skin side up on a cutting board. Run the back of a knife over the skin, using a squeegee motion. As moisture emerges from the skin, wipe the skin and the knife dry with a paper towel. Repeat until no more moisture is visible.
Turn the salmon over and feel along the surface of the flesh with your fingertips just above and below the midline. If you feel pin bones, pluck them out with tweezers or needle-nose pliers. Slice the fillet in half lengthwise and then into thirds crosswise to make 6 somewhat square fillets. Season the meat side with salt and set aside skin side up until ready to cook.
Slice the bacon into thin crosswise strips. Cook them in a large skillet over medium heat until they are slightly crisp and the fat has rendered, about 10 minutes. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and reserve, leaving the fat in the pan.
While the bacon is cooking, trim the dried-out base of each mushroom stem and cut the mushrooms lengthwise into quarters. Cook the mushrooms in the rendered bacon fat until they color slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the minced shallots and cook until they soften but do not color, 2 to 3 minutes.
Return the bacon strips to the pan and add the thyme and white wine. Cook until the wine has reduced to a thin glaze, about 5 minutes. Add the cream and peas and cook just until the peas soften. This will take 5 to 10 minutes for fresh peas, depending on their starchiness, and about 5 minutes for frozen. Remove from the heat until ready to serve.
Heat a large nonstick skillet over high heat and add just enough oil to film the bottom of the pan. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle, place the salmon squares skin side down in the pan and reduce the heat to medium. Cook until you see the cooked color come about one third of the way up the side of the fillet, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and turn the salmon over to finish cooking off the heat.
Place the peas and mushrooms over high heat and stir in the butter. Season with salt to taste. Divide the mixture among six shallow pasta bowls and place a salmon square skin side up in the center of each. Serve.