Golden Tomato Soup with Fennel

If you only know gazpacho as that liquid, finely chopped salad that’s so often served, try following this basic technique—the real Spanish way—using any kind of good, ripe tomato. The soaked bread gives the soup a light creaminess that perfectly mellows the tomatoes’ tart, rich flavor. If you don’t have golden tomatoes, red will work.

4 TO 6 SERVINGS

2

ounces crustless sturdy white bread, cubed

2

pounds golden tomatoes, chopped (see headnote)

½

cup chopped fennel (about ½ bulb)

2

tablespoons chopped red onion

1

garlic clove

 

Fresh lemon juice (1 lemon)

1

tablespoon red wine vinegar

 

Salt

¼

teaspoon ground cumin

 

Dash Pimentón de la Vera or paprika

1

cup ice water

¼

cup plus 1 teaspoon olive oil

½

cup finely diced fennel (about ½ bulb)

3

teaspoons minced fennel fronds

Put the bread in a bowl and add enough water to cover. Let stand for at least 30 minutes to soften.

Squeeze the bread dry and put it in a blender with the tomatoes, chopped fennel, onion and garlic. Puree until smooth. Add the juice of ½ lemon, the vinegar, 1 teaspoon salt, the cumin and Pimentón and puree again. With the motor running, gradually add the ice water and ¼ cup olive oil. Chill well.

In a small bowl, stir together the finely diced fennel and the minced fronds. Moisten with the remaining 1 teaspoon olive oil and season with a couple of drops of lemon juice and a sprinkling of salt.

Before serving, strain the puree through a fine-mesh strainer if you want a perfectly smooth soup. Otherwise, whisk it to gently reincorporate anything that might have separated. Taste and add more salt, if desired. Divide evenly among four to six chilled soup bowls and garnish with 1 to 2 tablespoons of the diced fennel mixture. Serve.