Bruichladdich
- OWNER: RÉMY COINTREAU
- FOUNDED: 1881
- REGION: ISLAY
- PRONUNCIATION: Brook-LAD-ee
Many distilleries have gone through periods of closure and even near-death, but Bruichladdich has been truly born again. Though it operated until 1994, it traded hands many times; when it was closed it was left to rust, and was near destruction when a group of investors led by the entrepreneur Mark Reynier took it over in 2000. The new team preserved as much equipment as possible and began distilling immediately. For the first decade or so of its new existence, Bruichladdich was known for a confounding—though also exciting—array of whiskies, including the legendary Laddie Ten. Today it has largely consolidated its offerings to a few ranges. At its core are the unpeated namesake brand and the peated Port Charlotte, both of which are released as “Scottish barley” bottles, made with mainland grain, and vintage-dated “Islay barley” bottles, made with grain from the island’s farms. The distillery also produces a limited-edition, very heavily peated series called Octomore, and an occasional series called Black Art, whose age, peatiness, and finish change from bottling to bottling at the master distiller’s whim. Along with Glenmorangie in the Highlands, Bruichladdich has some of the tallest stills in Scotland.
Scottish Barley
The Classic Laddie
Bruichladdich gained worldwide attention with its release of the Laddie Ten, a one-time, ten-year-old unpeated whisky. Once those stocks were gone—and it didn’t take long—the distillery replaced the Ten with the Classic Laddie. It’s unpeated, like the Laddie Ten, but the Classic Laddie is a blend of different ages.
- PRICE $$ · RATING
- AGE No age statement
- ALC/VOL 50%
- NOSE Funky barley, saltwater taffy, grainy, butterscotch, honey, and the distinctive Bruichladdich floral notes; water brings out brown sugar and cooked raspberries.
- PALATE A round mouthfeel, with spicy honey, peppermint, and spicy herbs; water ups the spice and adds a bit of chocolate and creamy honey. The finish is long, dominated by spicy caramel and oyster shells.
- GENERAL As an entry-level whisky, it’s hard to beat (except on price). That said, fans of the Laddie Ten will tell you it’s a big step down from its lauded predecessor.
Bruichladdich
Islay Barley 2007
As with all Islay Barleys in the Bruichladdich portfolio, this one’s made from grain harvested and distilled from a specific farm in a specific year—in this case, Rockside Farms in 2007.
- PRICE $$ · RATING
- AGE No age statement
- ALC/VOL 50%
- NOSE Honeyed pear, buttered toast, honeysuckle, and a deep, rich maltiness; water brings out grilled pineapple, cinnamon, and caramel.
- PALATE A rich, creamy mouthfeel, with bubblegum, oak, honey, dark fruits, and toffee; water amps up the sweetness. The finish is long and spicy, with notes of anise and Indian spices, and just a touch of ash.
- GENERAL Straightforward, simple, beautiful—the notes make it sound like a Speyside, but it’s more raw, and less precious.
Scottish Barley
Heavily Peated
A non-age-statement whisky using barley from the mainland of Scotland that’s been peated to 40 ppm.
- PRICE $$ · RATING
- AGE No age statement
- ALC/VOL 50%
- NOSE Salted pork, roasted nuts, iodine, wet hay, white wine, bubblegum, and spring flowers; with water you’ll find maple sugar and cocoa powder.
- PALATE A full mouthfeel that’s sweet up front, with grass, cherry candy, and maple sugar, followed by a peat effervescence at the mid-palate; water tones down the sweetness and brings out a subtle floral note. The finish is sweet and semi-dry, with a bit of a vegetal note.
- GENERAL A good balance of sweet, salty, and savory notes. A solid whisky, but old timers will not hesitate to tell you how much better the old Port Charlottes were. Since those whiskies are but a memory, you can safely ignore them.
Islay Barley
Heavily Peated
The town of Port Charlotte, on Islay, was once home to the Lochindaal distillery, and with this expression Bruichladdich is trying to approximate its legendary whisky. As with all expressions in the Port Charlotte series, this one is peated at 40 ppm, similar to other Islay peat bombs. For the 2008 vintage, the barley came from the Coull, Kynagarry, Island, Rockside, Starchmill, and Sunderland farms, right there on Islay.
- PRICE $$ · RATING
- AGE No age statement
- ALC/VOL 50%
- NOSE Caviar, smoked herbs, baked chicken, tangerines, burnt rubber, charred wood, and a slight nuttiness; water brings out Cinnamon Toast Crunch and fresh rubber gasket.
- PALATE A medium mouthfeel, with the flavor of vinegar barbecue sauce slathered on pulled pork; there’s a slightly sweet char note there as well. Water adds grilled fruit and Cinnamon Toast Crunch. The finish is long, woody, and acidic, with a bit of iodine running underneath.
- GENERAL Delicious—like pulled pork barbecue in a glass.
The Laddie Ten
Second Limited Edition
A “limited” edition of eighteen thousand bottles, this is a reprise of the original Laddie Ten, released in 2011 as the distillery’s first regular-production expression, but later discontinued. Unpeated and aged in a combination of first-fill ex-bourbon, ex-sherry, and ex–French wine casks.
- PRICE $$ · RATING
- AGE 10 years old
- ALC/VOL 50%
- NOSE Mellow to the point of nonexistence, but there are whiffs of honey, grain, lemon zest, and white pepper. A bit more aroma comes out with a few drops of water.
- PALATE An unusually thick mouthfeel, almost like that of a liqueur; it’s creamy and peppery, with lemon curd, spicy honey, and sea salt. Water brings out a roasted-nut quality. The finish is semi-dry, with chili peppers and lingering salt.
- GENERAL What an odd whisky—a near-absent nose, an oil-thick mouthfeel, and an odd blend of flavors. Still, it’s a cult favorite, and a solid choice for an after-dinner dram. If you find it, buy it.
Octomore EDITION 07.4
Named for a nearby farm and former distillery, the Octomore range is a regularly released, limited-edition expression that claims to be the most heavily peated whisky in the world. Each release is a bit different; this one, 7.4, has a peat level of 167 ppm and is aged for seven years in virgin French oak barrels.
- PRICE $$$$ · RATING
- AGE 7 years old
- ALC/VOL 61.2%
- NOSE Fresh paint, bacon, sawn oak, pine resin, army surplus store, campfire, raisins, toasted marshmallows, cut ivy, and vinegar barbecue sauce; water elicits pumpernickel bread, sherry, and clove-studded orange.
- PALATE Raisin, resin, honeyed caramel, mint, and spiced meats; with water you find campfire, fruit juice, and red wine notes. The sweet-and-spicy finish has a bit of ashtray to it.
- GENERAL A fantastic whisky, and don’t let the eye-popping ppm frighten you. The peat is present but integrated; overall, the influence is more in the savory-meat range than campfire and ashtray. Pair it with salmon and blue cheese.
Black Art 1990 EDITION 04.1
The last in the Black Art series to be concocted by the legendary distiller Jim McEwan, the production of this twenty-three year old is a mystery—hence the name. The only detail the distillery will reveal is that it’s unpeated, and drawn from a combination of ex-bourbon and ex-wine casks.
- PRICE $$$$ · RATING
- AGE 23 years old
- ALC/VOL 49.2%
- NOSE Acetone, honeycomb, lavender, cherry chews, hay, and new car; it grows fruitier with water, and gains a bit of funk and saltwater taffy.
- PALATE Full-bodied, with grape jam, vanilla pudding, and wood char, moving to cured ham at the mid-palate; water underlines the salty meat character, and smoothes out the transition from sweet to salty/savory. The finish is dry and savory, with a slight note of tobacco ash, chocolate, and cooked stone fruits.
- GENERAL An excellent, evolving whisky, something to savor—contemplate, even—after a big dinner. Water helps enormously.