Oban
- OWNER: DIAGEO
- FOUNDED: 1794
- REGION: HIGHLANDS
- PRONUNCIATION: OH-bin
Oban the distillery practically predates Oban the town. While the former has grown to global prominence, the latter is still home to only about 8,500 people, tucked into a seaside corner of the Scottish Highlands. The distillery is one of the oldest in Scotland, and still one of the most isolated on the mainland. But it has survived, and flourished, thanks to a rail line that early on connected Oban to Glasgow. On a personal note, my maternal grandmother’s family comes from Oban, though both at the time and up to the present none of my ancestors or (now distant) relatives had much to do with the whisky industry.
Oban
Aged 14 Years
The backbone of the Oban range, the 14 Year Old reflects the distillery’s geography, poised between the maritime smokiness of islands and the robust maltiness of the Highlands.
- PRICE $$ · RATING
- AGE 14 years old
- ALC/VOL 43%
- NOSE Rich and fruity, with sherry, cherries, and honeyed pears, along with vanilla and notes of iodine, rubber, and sweat; it really opens with water, showing cola, cedar, rye, and salty air.
- PALATE Sweet up front, with muted baking spices, orange peel, dark chocolate, and espresso; the finish is medium in length, minty, and fresh.
- GENERAL Deliciously crisp and bright, with a delightful, gentle smokiness.
Little Bay
Following on the success of Talisker Storm, another non-age-statement single malt from Diageo, the drinks giant introduced Oban Little Bay in 2015 to similar acclaim, putting this small distillery on the global map. (For those wondering about the name, it’s a bit redundant: oban means “little bay” in Scots Gaelic.)
- PRICE $$ · RATING
- AGE No age statement
- ALC/VOL 43%
- NOSE Apple eau de vie, cinnamon, milk chocolate, bread dough, cloves, brine, seaweed, dried fruit; a bit floral. Water just ruins the fun.
- PALATE Fried bread, fresh malt, cold ash, plums, mangos, hints of leather, and black pepper; the finish is short, refreshing, and slightly minty.
- GENERAL Light but flavorful, Little Bay is an elegant but slightly severe whisky, like a Thomas Mann novel in liquid form.
Oban
Distillers Edition
Though technically a non-age-statement expression, the Distillers Edition is an annual release of Oban’s standard 14 Year Old that has spent an extra six to eighteen months in a Montilla fino sherry cask. It draws on just 300 barrels a year.
- PRICE $$ · RATING
- AGE No age statement
- ALC/VOL 43%
- NOSE Strong sherry influence, with red apples, drawn butter, orange peel, chocolate powder, and a slight whiff of smoke. Don’t waste it on water.
- PALATE Big sweet sherry hit up front, then it steps aside to reveal cherry, honey, herbs, almond, and a whiff of smoke; the finish is medium in length, and a bit tannic and gingery.
- GENERAL A good example of how a well-applied dose of sherry aging can transform and improve a standard whisky.
Aged 18 Years
Like the Distillers Edition, the 18 Year Old is drawn from just 300 barrels a year. Formerly a limited-edition product, it’s now part of the Oban core lineup.
- PRICE $$$ · RATING
- AGE 18 years old
- ALC/VOL 43%
- NOSE Brine, chalk, honey, cola, ginger, dried grass, and chocolate-covered fruit; water brings out a citric note, like grapefruit, and an earthy spice note, like turmeric.
- PALATE A medium mouthfeel, with tropical fruit, toasted coconut, dried ginger, candied apple, and a big spice pop in the middle; with water, you’ll find vanilla extract, nuts, chocolate, and melons. The spice carries through to the finish, with just a bit of lingering fruit.
- GENERAL Tastes more Speyside than Highlands, despite the brine on the nose. The layers of herbs, spices, and chocolate entrance. A smooth, surprisingly elegant drink.