INDEX

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“21” Club, 154

Académie Internationale du Vin, 159

Accomplisht Cook, The (May), 107 Acme Bread Company, 91

Acton, Eliza, 342

ACT UP, 274

Adams, Charlotte, 342

Adams House, 33, 34, 36

Addison, Bill, 337

Adler, Kurt Herbert, 85

Adler, Randy D., 152, 368

Adrià, Ferran, 1–2, 343

Ahwahnee Hotel, 132

AIDS, 221, 231, 233–34, 255, 271–76, 279, 290, 291, 304

Air France, 279

airport check-ins, 166–67

À La Votre, 86

Alcohol Control Board, 156

Alexander, Crown Prince of Yugoslavia, 264

Alexander, Penny, 275–76

Alexander, Victoria, 342

Alford, Jeffrey, 342

Ali-Bab, 82, 342

Alice B. Toklas Cookbook (Toklas), 44, 67–68, 99–100, 191–92, 370

Alioto, Angela, 268

Allen, Ida C. Bailey, 342

Allison, Len, 323

Allman, Gregg, 292

Almanach des Gourmands (Reynière), 82, 367

American Cookery (Beard), 114, 131, 344

American cuisine, 115–18, 165, 176–77, 201–3, 219–20, 316–18, 321–22

American Institute of Wine & Food, 154–55, 163–64, 291, 318

American Place, An, 202, 300, 301, 316

American Restaurant, The, 116, 187, 188

Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA), 287

America’s Best Chefs Cook with Jeremiah Tower (TV show), 325–26, 370

America’s Test Kitchen (TV show), 61, 323–24

AmfAR, 231

Anger, Kenneth, 343

Angotti, Tony, 271–72, 278, 312

Another Country (Baldwin), 41

Apple, Betsey, 242

Apple, R. W. “Johnny,” Jr., 3, 211, 242

Aquatic Farms, 154

Aquavit, 335

Arenos, Pau, 343

Aresty, Esther B., 343

Aron, Jean-Paul, 343

Arrows Restaurant, 334

Art of War (Sun Tzu), 171

Arzak, 339, 343

Asher, Gerald, 136, 182, 190, 250

Asia de Cuba, 335

Auberge du Soleil, 217

Auchincloss, Louis, 249

Audot, Louis Eustache, 343

Au Pactole, 110, 124

Aureole, 308–9

Australia, 7–8, 10–13, 184, 318–20

Australian Gourmet Traveller, 219

AZT, 233–34, 273

Bacchini’s, 147

Bacon, Francis, 78

Baer, Jim, 269, 282–83

Balboa Cafe, 155–56, 157, 189

Baldick, Robert, 343

Balducci’s, 168–69, 171

Baldwin, James, 41, 109

Balenciaga, Cristóbal, 37

Baliantz, Armen, 246–47

Balthazar, 313

Barber, Dan, xv, xvi, 4

Barker, Brad, 170

Barry, Naomi, 135, 344

Batali, Mario, xvi, 3, 242, 293, 311, 327

Bates, Caroline, 113, 210–11

Batori, Ron, 150, 152, 193

Batterberry, Ariane, 20–21, 120, 344

Batterberry, Michael, 20–21, 120, 344

Bauer, Michael, 212, 335

Baum, Joseph, 117, 154, 168, 210, 302

Beard, James, 50, 113–19, 135–36, 139, 154, 168

    bibliography, 344

    Chez Panisse and, 100, 113–15, 128–29

    conversations about career, 113–19, 122

    death of, 217–18, 219

    dinners and menus for, 128–29, 140–41, 182–83, 197–98

    Stars and, 204–5, 210, 232

Beastie Boys, 298

Beaton, Cecil, 58–59, 60, 62, 191, 344

Beatty, Warren, 252

Bechet, Sidney, 98

Beck, Simone “Simca,” 135, 344

Becker, Marion Rombauer, 367

Bedford, Sybille, 135, 144, 154

Beebe, Lucius, 207, 304, 345

Beechwood, 2–3, 165, 169–76

Beerbohm, Max, 122

Bemelmans, Ludwig, 345

Bentley (basset hound), 265

Berkeley Independent-Gazette, 115

Bernard, Emile, 351

Bernstein, Leonard, 37

Berowra Waters Inn, 184

Bertranou, Jean, 316

Besson, Gerard, 231

Betty Ford Clinic, 252

Bianchini, Francesco, 345

Bibendum, 242, 359

bibliography, 341–73

Big Sur, 47–48, 54, 137

Bilson, Gay, 184

Bilson, Tony, 184, 365

Birnbaum, Jan, 230

Bishop, Willy, 139

    background of, 78

    at Chez Panisse, 72, 74, 78–79, 91–92, 94, 95, 97, 99, 101, 119, 121

    drug use and jailing, 103–4, 230–31

Bitanga, Benjamin, 224, 288–89, 291

Bittman, Mark, 345

Bize-Leroy, Lalou, 233

Bizou Café, 292

Black Panthers, 46, 47

Blanc, Georges, 242, 345

Blank, Les, 124

Blass, Bill, 260–61

blinis, 35, 140, 141, 198, 287

Bloomfield, April, xvi

Blue Hill at Stone Barns, xv, xvi

Blue Water Grill, 252, 318

Bober, Phyllis Pray, 346

Bocuse, Paul, 125, 127, 175, 202, 211, 256, 357

Boeckmann, Susie, 346

Bollinger, Lilly, 169–70

Bon Appétit, 328

Bond, James, 293

Bora Bora, 239

Borrel, Anne, 346

Boston Globe, 176, 211

Bottura, Massimo, xvi, 4

Boulestin, Marcel, 36, 77, 208, 342, 346–47

Bouley, David, 333

Boulud, Daniel, 335, 338, 347

Bourdain, Anthony, 346

Bowes, Frances, 262

Bradley, Richard, 347

Bramson, Ann, 241

“Brassplate Society,” 246

Bravo, Rose Marie, 255, 258, 261

Brennan, Ella, 316

Brillat-Savarin, 110, 347, 372

Brinkley, David, 249

Brock, Alice, 106

Broderick, Matthew, 262

Brooklyn Bridge, 201

Brown, Bob, 347

Brown, Carter, 255

Brown, Eleanor, 347

Brown, Helen, 347

Brown, Pat, 181, 317

Brown, Willie, 261

Brown’s Hotel, 40

budgerigars, 8

Budrick, Jerry, 93, 123

Bullock, Mrs. Helen, 347–48

Burros, Marion, 231, 295, 296, 315, 331

Caen, Herb, 100, 123, 209–10, 217, 221–22, 228, 240, 241–42, 255, 260, 274

Café des Artistes, 21, 242

Cage, John, 46

Caine, Michael, 251

California cuisine, xi–xii, 2–3, 126–27, 164, 165, 172–73, 176–77, 183–84, 201–3, 293, 297–98, 315, 321–23, 337. See also specific restaurants and chefs

“California Cuisine” (Schofield), 219, 302, 368

California Culinary Academy, 148, 150–52, 155, 193

California Dish (Adler), 152

California Hotel (San Francisco), 117–18

California Regional Dinner (1976), xi–xii, 2, 20, 126–27, 159, 298

California Supreme Court, 272, 276

California Union, 175

California Wine Perspective, 298

California Zephyr, 31

Canadian Pacific Hotels, 270

Cap Juluca, 269

Capon, Robert, 4, 347–48

Capote, Truman, 163

Carême, Marie-Antoine, 125, 128, 287, 324, 370

Carmellini, Andrew, xvi

“Carnage of Geraniums, A” (Montesquiou), 51

Carnegie Hall, 281

Carson, Rachel, 50, 348

Carter, Edward, 321–22

Castañeda, Carlos, 46

Cathay Pacific, 275

Caulfield, Lore, 327

caviar blinis, 35, 140, 141, 198, 287

Cayson, Eddie, 233

Celebrity Sports International, 321

Chagall, Marc, 122

Chalone Vineyard, 154–55, 159

Chamberlain, Samuel, 82, 348

champagne, 169–70, 174

“Champagne Palace” (Green Street house), 33–37, 43–44, 48–49

Chandon, Frédéric, 249

Channing, Carol, 228–29, 264

Chateau d’Yquem, 37–38, 144–45, 199, 257

Chateau Grillet, 199

chef as superstar, 250–51

Chefs in America, 281

Cheremetev, Count, 35, 105

Cherikoff, Vic, 348

Cheshes, Jay, 4

Chez L’Ami Louis, 108, 174

Chez Panisse

    advertisement for chef, 55, 69–70

    bombshells at, 119–21

    final bow at, 127–30

    finances of, 72–73, 86–87

    first meeting with Alice, 69–70, 71–73

    as head chef, 73–79, 89–111, 113, 118–30

    influence and legacy of, 202, 295–97, 298–99, 315, 337

    kitchen crew at, 78–79, 104

    lamb incident, 95–96, 162, 198

    last of French festivals, 124–26

    menus, 2, 71, 74–78, 81–87, 104–7, 110–11, 122–23, 124–27

       Alice B. Toklas Dinner (1974), 99–100, 127

       Alsace Dinner, 124–25

       Best of Chez Panisse, 127–29

       California Regional Dinner (1976), xi–xii, 2, 20, 126–27, 298

       Champagne Regional Dinner (1973), 83, 84

       Corsican Dinner, 106–7

       Dinner for Chez Panisse Friends (1981), 195

       Moroccan Regional Dinner, 100–101

       New Year’s Eve Dinner (1973), 85–86

       New Year’s Eve Dinner (1975), 111

       Sauternes Dinner, 105

       Third Birthday (1974), 102–3

    myth of, 307–8

    sale of, 123–24

    tenth birthday party (1981), 307

    third birthday of (1974), 101–3

    twenty-fifth anniversary party (1996), 332

    typical week at, 89–98

Chez Panisse Foundation, 296

Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook, The (Guenzel), 105, 127, 130, 151, 306, 307–8, 356

Chez Prunier, 12–13

Chiang, Cecilia, 132–33, 141, 154, 190, 198, 201

Chiarello, Michael, 231

Chicago Tribune, 333

Child, Julia, 135, 154–55, 201, 202, 231, 242, 256, 281, 306, 322, 344

Chinatown, San Francisco, 89–90

Christian Science Monitor, 176

Christy, George, 249

Cipriani, Harry, 348

Citymeals-on-Wheels, 231, 243, 244–46, 281–82, 291, 292, 299, 312

Claiborne, Craig, 154, 219

Clement, Brooks, 47–48

Clift Hotel, 132, 335

Club des Cents, 108

cocaine, 101–2, 103–4, 157, 303–4

Cocteau, Jean, 207, 348

Colacello, Bob, 260, 262

Colette, 191, 348–49

College, Antioch, 152–54

Collier, Richard, 240, 241, 272

Collins, Gina, 325–26

Collins, Joan, 228, 257

Commander’s Palace, 116, 316

Condé Nast, 255

Connoisseur Wine Imports, 110, 196

Conrad, Barnaby, 349

Cooper, Gary, 163, 203

Coppola, Francis Ford, 107, 154, 261–62

Corbetta, Francisco, 345

Core, Philip, 48–49, 50–51, 53, 71, 162–63, 255, 349

Corti, Darrell, 106, 125, 141, 151, 154, 193

Courtine, Robert, 82, 349

Coward, Noël, 36

Coyote, Peter, 262

Craddock, Harry, 349

Cragun, Richard, 48–49

cranberries, 165–66

Creeley, Robert, 34

Crocker Bank, 157, 206–7

Crowninshield, Frank, 116–17, 349–50

Crystal Cruises, 291

Cuba, 31, 39

Cuisine (magazine), 181, 317

Cuisine et Vins de France, 108

Cunanan, Andrew, 237, 286

Cunningham, Marion, 114, 118, 133, 138–39, 140, 198, 322, 331

Curnonsky, 82, 125, 350

Curtan, Pat, 195

Czuczman, Oxsana, 170

Dalí, Salvador, 107, 130, 350

Daly, Tyne, 259

Danko, Gary, 321

Danny’s (Baltimore), 116

Dansereau, Serge, 184, 318

David, Elizabeth, 36, 70, 77, 135–37, 144, 154, 350

David, Narsai, 182

Davidson, Alan, 96, 350

Davis, Irving, 351

De Croze, Austin, 82, 351

Decure, Madeleine, 108

De Gouy, Jean, 351

De Groot, Roy Andries, 351

De Jean, Madeleine, 233

De la Renta, Oscar, 235, 249, 261

Del Grande, Robert, 312, 316

Delmonico’s, 2, 20, 114, 122–23, 337–38

“De Profundis” (Wilde), 54

Detroit News, 296, 323

De Young Fine Arts Museum, 159

Dietrich, Marlene, 86, 163, 204

Die Welt, 242, 269–70

Dixler, Hillary, 1

Dodge Dart, 89, 90–91

Domaine Tempier, 109, 110, 195–96

Domingo, Placido, 281

Douglas, Kirk, 249

Douglas, Norman, 46, 341, 345, 351

Douglas, Tom, 334

Doyle, Peter, 184

Draper, Ruth, 249

drugs. See cocaine; marijuana; opium

Dubois, Urbain, 82, 125, 351

Ducasse, Alain, 231, 352

Dufresne, Wylie, xvi

Duguid, Naomi, 342

dulce de leche, 16

Dumaine, Alexandre, 108, 352

Dumas, Alexandre, 53, 352

Duncan, Robert, 100

Dunlop, Fuchsia, 1, 339

Dunne, Dominick, 249

Dupleix, Jill, 231, 255, 302, 352

Duprey, Ken, 198

Durack, Terry, 231, 255, 352

Durrell, Lawrence, 352

“East Meets West,” 148–49

Ebert-Schifferer, Sybille, 353

Edible Schoolyard, 296

Egypt, 15, 17

El Bulli, 1–2, 331, 341

Eleven Madison Park, xvi, 287, 338–39

Entertainment Tonight, 246

Epicurean, The (Ranhofer), 2, 20, 122–23, 366

Epstein, Jason, 308

Escoffier, Auguste, 2, 50, 61, 125, 198, 353

Esquire, 3–4, 327

Etheridge, Jeannette, 246–47, 257, 268

Evans, Len, 242

Evelyn, John, 82, 353

Exaltation of Larks, An (Lipton), 329

Faking It (Lane), 262–63

Farley, John, 353

Farmer, Fannie Merritt, 353

Farmers’ Weekly, 107

Fat Duck, The, 331

Fauchon, 31

Feinstein, Dianne, 211

Fernandez-Armesto, Felipe, 354

“fern bars,” 156

Ferré, Gianfranco, 230, 249, 255, 261–62

Festival of American Chefs, 315–16

Field, Michael, 36

Fielding, Daphne, 354

Fiji, 9–10

Finigan, Robert, 95–96, 130, 162, 198, 199–200, 209, 210, 335

Firbank, Ronald, 354

Fisher, M. F. K., 154, 231, 233, 263–64, 340

Flandrin, Jean-Louis, 354

Flo Group, 313

Florida Winefest, 320

Focus, 164, 233, 243, 251

Fonteyn, Margot, 48–49

Food & Wine, 189, 230

Forbes, Malcolm, 249, 258, 299

Ford, Charles Henri, 122

Forgione, Larry, 185, 187, 201, 202, 300, 301, 302, 312, 316

Four Seasons, 21, 114, 116, 117, 126, 168, 203, 337–38, 362

Fourth Street Grill, 155

Franey, Pierre, 154

Franz, Mark, 159, 232, 253, 276–79, 282, 292, 317, 355

Frasier, Clark, 334

French Laundry, 334

French Menu Cookbook (Olney), 52, 64–65, 363–64

Frères, Coudert, 231

Freson, Robert, 355

Fulton Fish Market, 169

Fussell, Betty, 355

Gable, Clark, 203–4, 210

Gaier, Mark, 334

galahs, 7–8

Galanos, Jimmy, 258

Galatoire’s, 52, 334

Gallo, Ernest, 242

Garden Project, 296

gardens (gardening), 11, 13, 27, 28, 40–41, 43

Garin, Georges, 52, 109, 125, 363

Garrapata Trout Farm, 19, 81

Gastronome, 232

Gattey, Charles Neilson, 355

Gault Millau, 120, 175, 221

Gavin, John, 250, 264

Gay and Lesbian Campaign, 259

Gaynor, Mitzi, 264

Getty, Ann, 156, 257, 259, 263

Getty, Billy, 259

Gibbons, Euell, 50, 79, 355

Gilbert, Philéas, 125, 363

Gilbert, W. S., 177

Ginor, Michael, 355

Ginsberg, Allen, 34

Glasse, Hannah, 355

Goines, David Lance, 102

Golden Gate Bridge, 254

Golden Harvest Films, 282, 284

Goloub, Hélène, 356

Good Cook, The, 134, 141, 143, 148, 356

Good Morning America (TV show), 11–12

Gopnik, Adam, 355

Gordon, Elizabeth, 54

Gordon, Peter, 355–56

Gordon Ramsay Group, 339

Gourmet, 36, 58, 82, 113, 114, 119, 135, 136, 207, 210–11, 250, 292, 297, 332, 334–35

Graff, Dick, 154–55, 187, 230, 318

Graham, Katharine “Kay,” 51

Gramercy Tavern, 333–34

Great American Menu, 131–34

Great Australian Bight, 15–16

Greene, Gael, 154, 231

GreenLeaf, 329

Greensill, Mike, 210

Griffini, Orso Cesare, 356

Grigson, Jane, 143–44, 154, 356

grills (grilling), 7–8

Gritti Palace, 121, 199, 296

Gross, Michael, 257–58

Guenzel, Linda, 96, 130, 151, 307, 308, 356

Guérard, Michel, 125, 202, 356–57, 363

Guernsey, Tom, 71, 92

Guevara, Ernesto “Che,” 31, 39

Guggenheim, Mary, 135

Guidara, Will, xvi

Guillot, André, 357

Guthrie, Arlo, 106

Haldeman, H. R., 93–94

Hale, Denise, 221, 228–29, 232, 234–37, 249–50, 255, 258, 259, 261–64, 266, 288, 289

Hale, Prentis Cobb, 229, 237, 270, 288

Hamilton, George, 258

Harper’s Bazaar, 261

Harris, Genevieve, 342

Harrison, Rex, 249

Harrods’ Food Hall, 25, 30, 79

Harry’s Bar, 242, 296

Hartley, Dorothy, 357

Harvard College, 33–34, 36–37, 43–44

Harvard Graduate School of Design, 44, 66–67, 220

Harvard Square, 43–44, 49

Hay, Donna, 357

Hays, Carole Shorenstein, 258

Hazan, Marcella, 357

Heflin, Van, 203

Henry Africa’s Bar, 156

Herbst, Sharon Tyler, 357

Hess, John L., 358

Hess, Karen, 358

Hierneis, Theodor, 358

Highlands Bar & Grill, 194, 230, 300, 316

Hilton International, 120

Hinckle, Warren, 265

Hine, Bernard, 255

Hirtzler, Victor, 358

Holder, Geoffrey, 148

Holman Ranch, 18–19

Holyfield, Dana, 358

Hom, Ken, 148–50, 193–94, 358–59

Hoover, Herbert, 53

Hopkinson, Simon, 359

Horse & Groom, 41

Hotel Pierre, 244, 298

Hotel Pontchartrain, 46

Howard Hughes Corporation, 312

Huffington Post, 4

Humm, Daniel, xvi, 338–39

Huston, John, 144

Huysmans, Joris-Karl, 359

Hyde Park Hotel, 24–26

Iacocca, Lee, 281

Immigration and Naturalization Service, U.S., 138

Independence, SS, 17

In Flight Catering Association, 269

Innovations in Food (1983), 165–76

International Association of Culinary Professionals, 281

International Wine & Food Society, 256

Ireland, 39–40

Isaacs, Jennifer, 348

Ivey, Lee, 131, 140

Jackson, Stanley, 359

Jaeger, Lila, 155

James, Michael, 135

James Beard Foundation, 155, 281, 306, 320, 321

Jams, 202, 203, 297–98, 300, 311–12, 316

Janson, Charles William, 359

Japanese Hotel and Restaurant Association, 287

Jean-Louis: Cooking with the Seasons (Matron), 308, 362

Jeremiah Tower Cooks, 330, 371

Jeremiah Tower’s New American Classics, xi, 241, 306, 371

Johannes, Prince of Thurn and Taxis, 191–92

Johnson, Hugh, 154

Johnson, Philip, 168

Jones, Judith, 119, 231

Jordan, Frank, 287

Jordan, Sally, 234–35, 263

Joseph Phelps Vineyards, 110, 148, 194–95, 231, 233

Jullian, Philippe, 135

Kafka, Barbara, 154, 168, 187–89, 204–5, 208, 242, 349

Kafka, Franz, 271

Kamman, Madeleine, 154, 231

Kaye, Danny, 204–5

Kaytor, Marilyn, 359

Keenan, Brigid, 359–60

Keller, Hubert, 189, 190

Keller, Loretta, 292

Keller, Thomas, 334, 360

Kelly’s Bar, 47

Kempner, Nan, 258, 261

Kennedy, Diana, 230, 231, 360

Kennedy, John F., 69, 132

KGB, 247, 255

Khrushchev, Nikita, 131

Kimball, Chris, 61, 231, 323–24

Kimpton, Bill, 216, 217, 225

King and I, The (musical), 258

Kirov Ballet, 246–47, 255

Kissinger, Henry, 249

Kitt, Eartha, 148

Klein, Calvin, 260

Knapik, Harold, 360

Knox, Tony, 363

Kobayashi, Masataka “Masa,” 189, 190, 213–14, 216–17

Kohn, Joshua, 104

Kokonas, Nick, xvi

Kovi, Paul, 168, 362

K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen, 187, 188, 312

Kraus, Sibella, 295

Krim, Mathilde, 231

Kroyer, Victoria, 70

Kuh, Patric, 126, 360

Kumin, Albert, 168

La Coupole, 210, 242, 279

La Cuisine du Comte de Nice (Médecin), 102, 362

Lagasse, Emeril, 316

Lam, Noreen, 277–78

Lane, Kenneth Jay, 258, 262–63

Lang, George, 16, 21, 242, 360

Langone, Jan, 117

language of menus, 57–68

Lanson, Pierre, 255

Lanta, Anna Tasca, 360

Lapérouse, 58–60

La Pyramide, 21, 175

Larousse Gastronomique (Montagné), 36, 82, 125, 363

Last Days of Haute Cuisine, The (Kuh), 126, 360

Last Magnificient, The (film), 15

Las Vegas, 270, 312

Las Ventanas al Paraiso, 292

La Table au Pays de Brillat-Savarin (Tendret), 52–53, 110, 141, 370

Lauren, Ralph, 261

La Varenne, Sieur de, 360–61

Lawrence, Gertrude, 36

Lawrence, R. de Treville, Sr., 361

Lazaroff, Barbara, 230

Leach, Robin, 276, 299

Le Bernardin, 288, 335, 339

Le Camet d’Epicure, 110

Le Cirque, 316

Lecocq, Lydia “Lili,” 104

Le Coze, Maguy, 288, 335

Ledoux, Claude-Nicolas, 153

Legal Sea Foods, 43, 68

Le Guide Culinaire (Escoffier), 2, 125, 353

Leiber, Judith, 263

Lennon, John, 130

Leno, Mark, 259

Le Pavillon, 20–21, 62, 295

Le Plaisir, 204, 217

L’Ermitage, 316

L’Escargot, 20

L’Étoile, 115, 217

Lewis, Edna, 361

Liberté, SS, 31

Liepa, Andris, 247, 249

Life (magazine), 202–3, 299

Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous (TV show), 245, 255, 299, 303

Lindy’s, 18, 20

Linton, George, 110, 196

Lipton, James, 329

local produce, 115–18, 301, 326–30

Locke-Ober, 116

Loma Prieta earthquake of 1989, 253–56

London Chop House (Detroit), 116, 187

Loomis Chaffee School, 31

Loren, Sophia, 259–60, 263

Los Angeles Times, 245, 303

Lowery, Gregg, 121, 135, 137, 138, 141, 162, 193, 197, 198–200

Lucas Carton, 4, 108, 212, 318

Luce, Clare Boothe, 163

Lüchow’s, 18, 20

Lucky Peach, 293

Luddy, Tom, 95

Lufkin, Liz, 164

Lunden, Joan, 12

L’Uomo Vogue, 53

Maasdam, MS, 39

Maccioni, Sirio, 316

MacDonald, Jeanette, 203

Machen, Arthur, 361

Mackintosh, Charles Rennie, 69

Ma Cuisine (Escoffier), 50, 198, 353

MAD Symposium (2014), 4–5

Ma Gastronomie (Point), 70, 81, 365

Magnin, Cyril, 152

Magowan, Peter, 250

Makarova, Natalia, 210, 258

Making of Americans, The (Stein), 100

Ma Maison, 183

Mandarin Grill, 183–85

mangoes, 10–11

Manière, Jacques, 110, 124, 175

March of Dimes, 224, 231, 243, 303

Marcos, Imelda, 258

Margaret, Countess of Snowdon, 107

Margittai, Tom, 168, 362

Mariani, John, 3–4, 231, 300, 327, 338

marijuana, 34, 100–101

recipes, 44–45, 64

Marinetti, Filippo Tommaso, 362

Marshall, A. B., 362

Martine’s Wines, 195

Master, Melvyn, 203

Mastering the Art of French Cooking (Beck), 135, 344

Matron, Fred J., 308, 362

Matsuhisa, Nobu, 334

Maui News, 251

Mauretania, RMS, 53

Maxwell, Elsa, 117, 266

Maxwell’s Plum, 119

May, Robert, 107

Maylie’s, 71, 116

McCartney, Paul, 130

McCarty, Michael, 133, 201, 269, 302, 312

McClure, Michael, 361

McEwen, Terry, 221

McGrath, Robert, 312, 316, 325–26

McNally, Keith, 313

“Meals of the Millennium” (Steingarten), 302, 328, 331, 369

Médecin, Jacques, 102, 362

Meese, Ed, 303

Mehta, Zubin, 228–29, 234–35, 236

Melman, Rich, 242, 313, 316

Members (magazine), 242

Menon, 362

menus

    language of, 57–68

    Alice B. Toklas Dinner at Fern Canyon (1974), 191–92

    An American Celebration (1983), 187–88

    Beatonmania, 58–60

    Beechwood Dinner, 174

    Big Sur Lunch Menu, 137

    California Culinary Academy (1980), 151–52

    Cathy’s Dinner to Cheer (1969), 66–67

    “Champagne Palace” (1961), 34

    Chez Panisse, 2, 71, 74–78, 81–87, 104–7, 110–11, 122–23, 124–27

       Alice B. Toklas Dinner (1974), 99–100, 127

       Alsace Dinner, 124–25

       Best of Chez Panisse, 127–29

       California Regional Dinner (1976), xi–xii, 2, 20, 126–27, 298

       Champagne Regional Dinner (1973), 83, 84

       Corsican Dinner, 106–7

       Dinner for Chez Panisse Friends (1981), 195

       Moroccan Regional Dinner, 100–101

       New Year’s Eve Dinner (1973), 85–86

       New Year’s Eve Dinner (1975), 111

       Sauternes Dinner, 105

       Third Birthday (1974), 102–3

    Counterrevolution (1962), 62–64

    “Cuisine Game” (1982), 181–82

    Delta Dinner (1980), 193–94

    Dinner at James Beard House (2001), 333

    Dinner for Margot Fonteyn, Richard

    Cragun, Philip Core, and the Street Dancers (1970), 48–49

    Dinner for One (San Francisco, 1972), 54–55

    Dinner for Retirement of Lucas Carton’s Chef (1965), 318

    Dinner in Maine Having Read Euell Gibbons (1970), 50

    Dinners for James Beard (1979), 197–98

    Dinner with Alice and Boyfriends (1980), 198–99

    Dinner with Alice and New Boyfriend (1980), 199–200

    First Dinner in Our Own Kitchen (1964), 37

    Florida State Dinner (1983), 163–64

    Gerald Asher Birthday (1982), 182

    Great American Menu, 131–34

    Innovations in Food Luncheon on the Terrace (1983), 172

    Lord Peter Wimsey, 61–62

    Lunch at Chateau d’Yquem (1978), 144–45

    Lunch at Chez Nous (1978), 144

    Lunch at Prides Crossing (1970), 51

    Lunch at the Peyraud Family Table (1975), 196

    Michigan and Midwest Dinner (1983), 164

    Napa Valley Wine Symposium (1982), 182–83

    Napa Winery Dinner (1980), 194–95

    Stars, 209, 332–33

       Bentley’s Lunch, 265

       Dinner for Gianfranco Ferré, 261

       Dinner for Kenny Jay Lane, 262–63

       Dinner for Martha Stewart, 265–66

       Dinner for Sophia Loren, 259–60

       Dinner for the Zubin Mehtas, 233–34

       Un Grande Complimento, 264–65

    Texas and Spanish America Dinner (1983), 164

    Ventana Inn, 139–41

       Dinner for James Beard, 140–41

    Winter Dinner with Annie Meyer and Friends (1971), 65–66

Menus for Entertaining (Stewart), 266

Metropolitan Home, 164, 211

Meyer, Agnes, 50

Meyer, Annie, 49–51, 65–66, 68

Meyer, Danny, 312–13

Miami Herald, 318

Michael’s New York, 269

Michael’s Santa Monica, 133, 183, 291, 296

Milk Board, 299

Miller, Mark, 124, 128, 155, 158–59, 188, 296, 316

Minnelli, Liza, 255, 289

Mirabella, Grace, 255

Mission Hill Winery, 320

Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women (Gross), 257

Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavor (This), 4

Molotov cocktails, 44, 78

Mondavi, Robert, 148, 154, 155, 188

Montagné, Prosper, 36, 125, 362–63

Montanari, Massimo, 354

Montesquiou, Robert de, 51

Moon, Doyle, 155–58, 205, 206–7, 208, 220–26, 239–41, 282, 283

Morazan, SS, 132

Morgan, Julia, 69

Morley, Robert, 119

Morris, Helen, 363

Morrison, Jim, 124

Morse, Rob, 265

Mosbacher, Georgette, 258

Moulin de Mougins, 133, 134

Moullé, Jean-Pierre, 122, 124, 127–28, 130, 297

Mr. Chow’s, 132–33

Munnings, Alfred, 40

Music Lovers, The (film), 59, 204

Mustard’s Grill, 316

Nagourney, Adam, 295

naked chefs, 299–302

Napa Valley James Beard Foundation, 321

Napa Valley Wine Symposium (1982), 182–83

Nassikas, James, 187, 190, 204–5

nasturtium flowers, 11–12, 64

Needles, California, 19–20

Nelson, Susie, 155

Nero Wolfe Cookbook (Stout), 117, 369

New American Cuisine, 165, 176–77, 201–3, 219–20, 316–18, 321–22

New Food: From the New Basics to the New Classics (Dupleix), 302, 352

New Orleans, 46, 52, 71, 316

Newsome, Gavin, 259

Newsweek, 50

New York (magazine), 154, 231, 338

New Yorker, The, 38, 52

New York Herald Tribune, 135, 342

New York Times, xvi, 3, 211, 219, 295, 296, 300, 311–12, 338

Neyers, Bruce, 194, 231, 233

Niblo, William, 114

Nicky USA, 328

Nieporent, Drew, 286, 321

Nignon, Édouard, 363

Noma, 4–5, 339, 341

Norman, Emile, 47–48, 54

Norman, Jill, 144

North Face, The, 182

No Time to Die (Tilberis), 261

nouvelle cuisine, 4, 120, 165, 174–75

Nureyev, Rudolf, 48, 135, 177, 210, 258, 279

Observer Monthly, 339

Ocean Spray, 165–66

O’Dea, Jim, 234, 235, 262, 265, 272

O’Dea, Jo, 234, 262, 265

O’Donnell, Mietta, 363

Ogden, Bradley, 187, 188, 189, 190, 219, 302, 317, 321

Oliver, Jamie, 299, 331

Olivier, Laurence, 204

Olney, Richard, 106, 108–11, 127, 136, 144, 154, 159

    bibliography, 363–64

    Chez Panisse and, 110, 111, 125

    French Menu Cookbook, 52, 64–65, 363–64

    The Good Cook, 127, 134, 141, 143, 148, 356

    in Provence, 134–35, 137, 195–96, 329, 339

Onassis, Jacqueline “Jackie” Kennedy, 263

On the Town in New York (Batterberry), 20–21, 120, 344

Open Hand, 243, 255, 256

opium, 101, 108–9

Opton, Gene, 70, 72–73, 75, 86

Ortega, Daniel, 211

Orwell, George, 364

Osteria Francescana, 4

Ottolenghi, Yotam, 339

Owen, Sri, 154

Ozawa, Seiji, 85

Pacific Design Center, 245

Pacific Film Archive, 95

Palace Kitchen, 334

Palladin, Jean-Louis, 255, 299, 308, 312

Palling, Bruce, 2

Palm, The, 132

Palmer, Charles, 308–9

Palmer, Michael, 34, 36–37, 43, 54–55, 68, 99, 100, 197, 199, 251

“panisse,” 102

Parker, Robert, 242

Pastis, 313

Pavarotti, Luciano, 264–65

Pawlcyn, Cindy, 316

Peak Cafe, 255, 256, 267, 269–70, 289, 313

Pebeyre, Pierre-Jean, 358–59

Peel, Mark, 296

Pellaprat, Jean-Henri, 364

Pelosi, Nancy, 263

Pelosi, Paul, 261

People (magazine), 242

Pépin, Jacques, 211, 231, 278, 282, 364

Perry, Charles, 249–50

Perry, Neil, 184, 252, 318

Per Se, xvi

Peterson, James, 364

Petrini, Carlo, 295–96

Peyraud, Lucien and Lulu, 195–96

Phelps, Joseph, 154, 188

Philharmonia Baroque Orchestra of the West, 159

Picart Snail Factory, 154

Picasso, Pablo, 207

Picture Cook Book, 116, 365

Pig by the Tail, 70

Pimms, 41

pineapples, 10, 16

Playboy, 300

Plaza Athénée, 244

Pleydell-Bouverie, David, 263

Point, Fernand, 70, 81, 365

poison pen, 213–15

Pollan, Michael, 365

Pomiane, Édouard de, 365

Ponti, Carlo, 260

Ponzek, Debra, 321

Portarlington, Lady, 39–40

Prides Crossing farm, 49–52, 65–66, 68, 131

Private Lives (play), 36, 257

Provincial Cooking (David), 70, 350

Prudhomme, Paul, 187, 188, 201, 202, 302, 312, 316, 323

Puck, Wolfgang, 183, 219, 230, 251–52, 269, 299, 311, 316, 317, 321, 334

    An American Celebration (1983), 188–89

Pyles, Stephan, 300, 301–2, 316

Queen Elizabeth, HMS, 18, 23–24

Quilted Giraffe, 230

Raffles, 285

Ramey, Samuel, 257

Ramsay, Gordon, 339, 366

Random House, 308

Ranhofer, Charles, xi, 2, 20, 122–23, 366

Rann, Evelyn, 366

Rattlesnake Club, 312

Rawlings, Majorie Kinnan, 366

Reading Terminal Market, 325–26

Rebeiz-Nielsen, Natalie, 346

recipes

    Blue Trout in Pink Champagne, 84–85

    Consommé Marijuana, 64

    Grilled Garlic and Ancho Chili Sauce, 178–79

    Mary Jane Butter, 45

    Mary’s Cookies, 45

    Pudding, 16

    Tropical Fruit Compote, 179

Rector, George, 366

Red Cross, 256

Reddell, Ray, 263

Redzepi, René, 4–5, 339

Reed, Lou, 44

Regent Hotel, 289

Reichl, Ruth, 176, 245–46, 292–93

Renggli, Seppi, 168

Restaurant Associates, 117, 154, 313

Restaurant Business, 297, 302–3

Revue West, 189

Reynière, Grìmod de la, 82, 367

Rhodes, Barney, 319

Rhodes, Belle, 148–49

Rice, Bill, 189, 230, 333

Richard, Michel, 303, 316

Richman, Phyllis, 176

Ripert, Eric, 335, 339, 367

Ristow, Brunno, 289, 319

Ristow, Urannia, 250, 289, 319

Ritz, César, 3, 61

Ritz Hotel (Boston), 48, 49

Ritz, Marie Louise, 367

Roaring Fork, The, 325–26

Robert Mondavi Culinary Center, 135, 155

Robert Mondavi Food and Wine Award, 297

Roberts, Michael, 133, 316

Robins, Cynthia, 260

Rockefeller Center, 231, 245, 281, 292, 299

Rockefeller, David, 262

Rockwell, David, 335

Rodgers, Judy, 296

Roditi, Édouard, 135

Rodriguez-Hunter, Suzane, 367

Rolling Stone (magazine), 297–300, 303, 304

Roman, Philippe, 367

Romanoff’s, 204

Rombauer, Irma S., 367

Rome, 17

Ronsheim, John, 152–53, 155

Ron’s Produce Center, 73–74

Root, Waverley, 367

Rosekrans, Dodie, 258, 262

Rouas, Claude, 217

Rouas, Patty, 265

Routh Street Cafe, 300

Ruhlman, Michael, 367

Run DMC, 298

Russ & Daughters, 339

Russell, Ken, 59, 204

Rutherford Hill Winery, 155

Sackville-West, Vita, 367

Saffron, Inga, 367

Saint-Ange, Madame E., 368

Saks Fifth Avenue, 255, 258

salsas, 161–62

Samuelsson, Marcus, 335

Sander, Jil, 260

San Faustino, Genevieve “Geni” di, 263

San Francisco AIDS Foundation, 276

San Francisco Bay Guardian, 115

San Francisco Chronicle, 100, 201, 209–10, 211–12, 222, 240, 252, 262, 275, 283, 300, 301, 305, 322, 335

San Francisco Civic Center, 147, 205, 254, 256, 267–68, 270

San Francisco Examiner, 149, 189, 242, 260

San Francisco Opera, 221, 228, 232, 256, 264

San Francisco Western Women’s Club, 132

Sanger, John, 36, 37, 134

Sanger, Marjory Bartlett, 368

Santa Fe Bar & Grill, 155, 156–64, 165, 167, 182, 189–90, 222–23

Sarris, Stan, 368

sauces, 174–75

Saunier, Martine, 195

Savoy, Guy, 165–66, 170–71, 174–76, 279

Scaggs, Carmella, 257

Scheer, Robert, 123

Schlosser, Eric, 368

Schmidt, Jimmy, 187, 188, 189, 301, 312, 323

Schofield, Leo, 219, 302, 323, 368

schooling, 26–27, 31. See also Harvard College

Schrafft’s, 18

Schuman, Charles, 368

Schuman, Jo, 257, 261, 266

Scripps Institution of Oceanography, 155

Sea Ranch, 253

Searle, Phillip, 184

Sedlar, John, 316

Senderens, Alain, 4–5, 212, 346

Serventi, Silvano, 368

Sesser, Stan, 211–12

Shafer Vineyards, 292

Share Our Strength, 243, 333

Shaw, Clay, 52

Shelton, Jack, 76, 78

Sheraton, Mimi, 154, 338

Shere, Charles, 103

Shere, Lindsey, 71, 79, 103

Shindler, Merrill, 129

Shire, Lydia, 202, 316, 327

Shultz, George, 262

Simon, André, 368

Simon, Cathy, 36, 37, 43, 54, 66–67, 197, 199

Simonds, Nina, 176

Simple French Food (Olney), 109, 110, 364

Sitwell, Edith, 368–69

Slater, Nigel, 369

Slow Food, 296

Smith, Delia, 369

Snyder, Gary, 34

social food, 258–60

Solomon, Charmaine, 369

Soltner, André, 300, 305, 306

Soulé, Henri, 20–21, 62, 175, 295

South Wind (Douglas), 46, 351

Spago, 3, 183, 188, 244, 251–52, 312, 334

Spector, Stephen, 217

Speedo 690, 247, 253, 254, 255, 256, 289

Spenger’s Fresh Fish Grotto, 91

Splichal, Joachim, 316

Spoeri, Daniel, 369

Square in London, 331–32

Stalking the Wild Asparagus (Gibbons), 50, 79, 125, 355

Standard Fruit & Steamship Company, 132

Stanford Court Hotel, 3, 114, 187, 188

Stanwyck, Barbara, 254

Stars

    bidding, 223–26

    celebrities and press, 249–52, 264

    construction of, 206–8

    earthquake of 1989, 253–56, 267

    financing of, 155–56, 157, 204, 206

    franchising of, 282–86

    kitchen staff of, 276–79

    litigation against, 220–23, 239–41, 271–76, 286–87, 290

    menus, 209, 332–33

       Bentley’s Lunch, 265

       Dinner for Gianfranco Ferré, 261

       Dinner for Kenny Jay Lane, 262–63

       Dinner for Martha Stewart, 265–66

       Dinner for Sophia Loren, 259–60

       Dinner for the Zubin Mehtas, 233–34

       Un Grande Complimento, 264–65

    new site of, 267–69, 270

    opening of, xv, 208–9, 211

    private parties at, 234–35, 236–37, 257–66

    reviews of, 209–12, 241–42, 249–50

    road show, 243–46, 281–82, 318–19

    sale of, 288–93

    site of, 147–48, 155, 204–6

    typical day at, 227–38

    wrongful termination suits, 271–76

Stars Cafe, 268–69, 277, 313

Stars Manila, 290, 291

Stars Oakville Cafe, 241, 277

Stars Palo Alto, 269, 282–83

Stars Seattle, 284

Stars Singapore, 284–86, 289, 291, 320

Steel, Danielle, 229, 250, 255, 258, 261

Steele, Carol, 148

Steger, Pat, 262, 263, 265

Steiman, Harvey, 149, 189, 322–23

Stein, Gertrude, 99–100

Steingarten, Jeffrey, 302, 328, 331, 369

Stewart, Jimmy, 203–4

Stewart, Martha, 231, 265–66, 281

Stitt, Frank, 194, 230, 300, 316

Stockli, Albert, 84

Stonehenge Inn & Restaurant, 83–84

Stout, Rex, 117, 369

Strauss, Levi, 233

Streep, Meryl, 250

Streeter, Colin, 37

Streiff, Fritz, 124, 128

Streisand, Barbra, 228

Students for a Democratic Society (SDS), 47

Sullivan, Steve, 91

Sun Tzu, 97–98, 171

Supper of the Lamb, The (Capon), 4, 347–48

Sutter 500, 189

Swig, Charlotte “Tex,” 262

Sydney Morning Herald, 219

Sydney Opera House, 269

Szathmary, Louis, 369

Tagg’s Island (Munnings), 40

Taillevent (Guillaume Tirel), 77, 301, 370

Tales of the City (TV series), 250

Talleyrand, Charles-Maurice, 324, 370

Taylor, Elizabeth, 5, 252

Tchelitchev, Pavel, 122

Tendret, Lucien, 52–53, 82, 108, 110, 141, 370

Tennant, Colin, 107

Terrail, Patrick, 183

Texas’s Cafe, 312

This, Hervé, 4

Thomas, Michael Tilson, 259

Thompson, Charles, 239

Throgmorton Farm, 326

Tiel, Vicky, 260

Tilberis, Liz, 261

Time (magazine), 201–3, 250

Time-Life Books, 127, 134, 135, 141, 143

To Begin Again (Fisher), 340

Todd, Dorothy, 208

Toklas, Alice B., 44, 54, 67–68, 99–100, 105, 127, 191–92, 370

Tony’s (Houston), 115

Too Many Cooks (Stout), 117, 369

Top of the Cove, 116

Topsy-Turvy (film), 177

Tosca Cafe, 246, 268

Touch of Evil (film), 86

Toulouse-Lautrec, 370

Tower, Jonathan Rutledge, 23–24, 31, 44, 282

Tower, Margaret Slattery, 9, 11, 12, 16–17, 26, 27–29, 30, 39–40, 41, 145, 158

Tower, Mary, 9, 100, 145

Tower, Walter Sheldon, 18–19, 46

Tower, Walter Sheldon, Jr., 8, 9, 11, 15, 18, 26, 29–30, 30, 53

Towers, Constance, 264

Town & Country, 119–20, 154, 167, 300

Trader Vic’s, 89, 97, 116, 334

Travel & Leisure, 211

Trefethen, Janet, 154

Troisgros, Jean, xvi, 124, 125, 175, 371

Troisgros, Michel, 128

tropical fruit, 10–11

Tropp, Barbara, 190, 320

Trotter, Charlie, 148, 321, 333, 334, 371

truffles, 30–31, 36, 58, 60, 91, 96

truite au bleu, 83–85

Tsuji, Shizuo, 371

turtle fat, 58–60

Tzara, Tristan, 51

Un Grande Complimento, 264–65

Union Oyster House, 116

Union Square Cafe, 312–13

Union Square Greenmarket, 329–30

United States Holocaust Memorial Museum, 259

University of California, Berkeley, 94, 158, 162

University of California, Santa Barbara, 155

Unofficial Palace of New York, The (Crowninshield), 116–17, 349–50

USAir, 251–52

Valentino, 258

Van der Rohe, Mies, 168

Vanity Fair, 255

Van Vechten, Carl, 51

Vella Cheese, 325

Ventana Inn, 127, 131, 134, 135, 138–41

Verdon, René, 131–32

Vergé, Roger, 133, 134, 189

Versace, Gianni, 237, 286

Victory Farms, 325–26

Vietnam War, 43–44, 49–50, 282

Viking Line, 269

Villas, James, 119–20, 154, 165, 167, 204–5, 207, 231, 300, 371

Visser, Margaret, 371

Vogue, 207–8, 224, 255, 302, 328, 331

Vongerichten, Jean-Georges, 332, 335

Vranian, Steven, 161, 169, 177, 223, 277–78

Wakuda, Tetsuya “Tet,” 333

Wald, Connie, 263

Waldorf-Astoria, 17–18, 116–17, 349–50

Wallis, Duchess of Windsor, 263

Wall Street Journal, 2, 4, 316

Warne, Frederick, 372

Warner, Richard, 372

Washington Park, 300–301

Washington Post, 49, 176, 243

Waters, Alice, xi–xii, 2, 81, 129–30, 136, 198, 243, 312, 323

    assistance at Ventana Inn, 154

    customer late walk-ins, 94–96

    disapproval of drugs, 103

    Elizabeth David and, 139

    farewell letter of, 129

    finances, 86–87

    first meeting with, 69–70, 71–73

    house of, 121–22

    legacy of, 211, 295–97, 298–99, 302, 307–8, 334

    menus, 198–200, 331

    returning produce, 73–74

    role in kitchen, 79

Waxman, Jonathan, 133, 185, 187, 188, 202–3, 223, 296, 299–301, 311–12, 316

Webb, David, 250, 263

Wechsberg, Joseph, 372

Wells, Pete, xvi

West Beach Café, 3, 133, 203

Western Grasslands Inc., 328

Westrex, 9

White Earth Land Recovery Project, 330

White, Jasper, 242, 300, 316

White, Marco Pierre, 372

Whitelaw, Elaine, 231, 243

Whiteley, Brett, 184

Wilde, Oscar, 54

Wilder, Billy, 249

wild parrots (galahs), 7–8

Wildt, Harry de, 241–42

Willan, Anne, 242

William Morrow, 241

Williams, Chuck, 154

Wilsey, Al, 250, 288

Wilsey, Dede, 263

Wimsey, Peter, 61–62

Wine Spectator, 2

Wing, Richard, 149

Wolfe, Linda, 372

Wolfert, Paula, 322

Wong, Alan, 334

Woods, Jim, 242

Woolf, Leonard, 40

Woolf, Virginia, 372–73

Wright, Frank Lloyd, 69

Yan, Martin, 327

Yap, Andrew, 289–90

Young Turks, 120, 165, 174–75

Zachs, Richard, 373

Zakhartchenko, Constantine Levovitch, 20, 35–36

Zakhartchenko, Mary Slattery, 20, 30–31, 34–36

Zanella, Maurizio, 255

Zukofsky, Louis, 34

Zuleika Dobson (Beerbohm), 122

Zuni Cafe, 296