An English custom dating from the twelfth century dictates that on Christmas Eve an enormous log of freshly cut wood be brought into the house. This “Yule Log” would be placed on the hearth and sprinkled with mulled wine, oil, and salt. Prayers would be said and the log would be lit. It was believed that the log’s cinders would protect the house from lightning and from the devil’s power.
Over the years the log became smaller and was transformed into a centerpiece on the Christmas table, decorated with candles and greenery. Eventually in some homes the wood disappeared entirely and was replaced with a chocolate cake in the shape of a log. That is the tradition with the royal family, where each Christmas Eve I would prepare a Yule Log for the royal table.
Filling
1¼ cups heavy cream
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted
Roulade
2 tablespoons butter, for greasing tray
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, for dusting tray
8 eggs, separated
1¾ cups granulated sugar, divided
¾ cup potato starch
½ cup Dutch processed cocoa powder
Frosting
2½ cups heavy cream
1 pound semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, melted
Grated chocolate, for garnish
Powdered sugar, for garnish
1. For the filling, a day ahead bring the cream to the boil, and pour it onto the 8 ounces melted chocolate, whisking all the time until the cream is mixed into the chocolate. Leave to cool at room temperature overnight.
2. For the roulade, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line an 18 × 12-inch baking sheet with parchment paper. Grease the parchment and lightly dust with flour. In a mixing bowl whisk the egg yolks and 1½ cups sugar until pale. Sift the potato starch and cocoa together into a bowl. Whip the egg whites until stiff and fold half the egg whites into the egg yolks and sugar mixture. Then fold in the potato starch and cocoa mix. Finally fold in the remaining half of the whipped whites.
3. Spread the sponge mixture onto the parchment-prepared tray, and bake in the center of the oven for 15 minutes, or until the sponge is firm to touch in the center.
4. Remove from the oven and loosen the edges of the sponge with a sharp knife. Place an 18 × 12-inch piece of the second parchment paper on a table or counter and sprinkle with the remaining ¼ cup sugar. Invert the sponge onto the sugared parchment paper and allow to cool.
5. Spread the filling over the sponge, leaving a ½-inch edge unfilled around all four sides. Holding the parchment paper, roll the sponge up like a jelly roll. Lift the roll onto a large cooling rack with a tray underneath.
6. Measure 4 inches from the end of the roll and cut a piece off at an angle. Do the same on the other end, starting to cut 2 inches from the top this time. Use some of the filling to stick the two pieces onto the roll. I put the 4-inch piece on the side in the middle of the large roll and the 2-inch piece on the top to create a “chopped log” effect.
7. For the frosting, bring the cream to the boil, and pour it on the melted chocolate in a large bowl, whisking all the time until the cream is mixed in. Ladle the chocolate frosting over the top and sides of the log, covering all of the sponge. Leave until set, about four hours, and then decorate with the grated chocolate and powdered sugar.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS