CHRISTMAS PUDDING

We would make ten times this recipe each October after returning from Balmoral. The puddings would then be ready to use the next year (prep time is 3 months to 2 years). These would be sent to Balmoral and Sandringham for shooting and hunting lunches. For shooting lunches we would cut fingers of pudding 3 × 1¼ inches and fry both sides in clarified butter until warm. Hunters would get two fingers of cold pudding in their sack lunches.

Like the recipe for mincemeat, Christmas pudding includes beef suet, which is the very fine white fat surrounding the kidneys. It isn’t always easy to find, so ask your local independent butcher and they’ll usually know where to get some.

½ stick (¼ cup) unsalted butter, plus butter for greasing

5 cups raisins

3 cups currants

2 cups candied lemon peel

2½ cups grated beef suet

6 cups fresh white bread crumbs

1¼ cups all-purpose flour

3½ tablespoons pumpkin pie spice

3 eggs

2 cups Demerara sugar

2 cups dark beer

½ cup dark rum

½ cup brandy, plus ¼ cup brandy, for pouring

1. Using a pastry brush, lightly grease the bottom and sides of the pudding bowls and also three square pieces of parchment large enough to cover the tops of the bowls.

2. Mix together in a large bowl the butter, raisins, currants, lemon peel, suet, bread crumbs, flour, pie spice, eggs, sugar, beer, rum, and ½ cup brandy; divide the mixture equally among the pudding bowls. Place the parchment paper on top of the bowls, and cover each with aluminum foil, wrapping tightly around the bowl.

3. Put the pudding bowls in a large steamer with a lid, making sure the water comes at least halfway up the sides of the bowls. Boil for 5 hours, checking the water in the steamer every hour. You will probably need to add more water.

4. Remove the bowls from the steamer and allow the puddings to cool. Refrigerate for at least three months and up to two years.

5. To serve, reheat the pudding in a steamer for 2 hours. Invert onto a warm dinner plate. Warm the remaining ¼ cup brandy, pour it over the pudding, and set alight. Serve immediately with brandy sauce (page 179).

MAKES THREE 2-POUND PUDDING BOWLS