SPINACH SOUFFLÉ

This spinach soufflé was usually served as a vegetable side dish, but sometimes it was served as dessert. Her Majesty would write “savoury” in the menu book and this meant that she wanted to end her meal with something like a savory soufflé. It would be served piping hot with a jug of Windsor cream alongside to drizzle into the center.

When we made spinach soufflés as a vegetable, the presentation was quite classic. We spooned the mixture into eight-inch ring molds, and while they were baking we sautéed wild mushrooms in a cream sauce. The finished soufflés would be inverted onto a silver dish, the ring mold removed, and the mushrooms spooned into the center. A sprinkle of chopped tarragon was placed on top and off to the table they went.

Softened butter for greasing

1 (20-ounce) bag spinach, or enough to make 1 cup spinach puree

½ cup all-purpose flour

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1¼ cups milk

½ cup heavy cream

4 eggs, separated

½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Liberally butter an 8-inch soufflé dish, leaving a ⅛-inch thick ring of butter around the lip.

2. Drop the spinach into a large pan of boiling water for 30 seconds, and then strain into a colander. Refresh the spinach by placing it back into the empty saucepan and filling the pan with cold water. Once the spinach is cold, strain it again and drain off as much water as possible. Squeeze the spinach in a clean tea towel to remove the excess water, and then puree it in a food processor. You will need to reserve 1 cup of the puree for the soufflé. Any extra spinach can be blended with mayonnaise, garlic, and red wine vinegar to make a sauce verte.

3. In a heavy saucepan, add the flour, butter, milk, and cream, and whisk together over high heat until the butter melts and a thick sauce forms. Remove from the heat, and whisk in the egg yolks, nutmeg, and the spinach. Season with the salt and pepper to taste, and allow to cool for about 10 minutes.

4. Whisk the egg whites until stiff, and fold into the spinach mix until all white egg traces have disappeared. Pour into the soufflé dish, and place it on the middle shelf in the oven. Bake for 20 minutes, or until the soufflé rises and is slightly firm to the touch on the top.

5. Remove from the oven and serve immediately with a jug of heavy cream.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS