ENGLISH PANCAKES

English pancakes are different from American pancakes. They are much thinner and contain no leavening. They are closer to a French crepe, only slightly thicker. Traditionally they are served on Shrove Tuesday, but are enjoyed year-round. They are best served straight from the pan. In my house the race is to try to make them faster than my children can eat them.

2 cups all-purpose flour

1½ tablespoons extra-fine granulated sugar

Pinch of salt

1 egg

2 egg yolks

2½ cups milk

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

½ stick (¼ cup) unsalted butter

Granulated sugar, lemons, and oranges for garnish

1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt. Add the egg and egg yolks, followed by the milk and 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil. Continue whisking until there are no lumps. In a separate small saucepan, melt the butter until it is golden brown, and whisk it into the pancake mix. Leave the batter to rest for about 15 minutes.

2. Heat an 8-inch frying pan until hot, and add the remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, tilting the pan to spread the oil across the bottom. When the oil starts to smoke, pour the excess into a small bowl for later use. Return the pan to the heat. You now have a sheer coating of oil remaining on the pan.

3. Pour 2 tablespoons of the batter into the pancake pan, tilting the pan to coat the bottom evenly. Cook until the underside of the pancake is golden brown, and then, using a spatula, turn it over and cook the other side. Turn the pancake out onto an upturned dinner plate. Repeat until there is no more batter, using a bit of the reserved oil if the pan appears to be dry, or if the pancakes begin to stick. Continue to stack pancakes on top of each other on your dinner plate.

4. When finished, serve the pancakes straightaway with the sugar for sprinkling and the lemon and orange wedges on the side for squeezing on the pancakes.

5. If you want to make the pancakes in advance, lightly butter an ovenproof tray, and sprinkle each pancake with sugar after you finish cooking it. Fold the pancakes in half and then half again, arranging them all neatly on the tray. Cover the tray with foil and bake at 350 degrees for about 15 minutes. Serve with the lemon and orange wedges.

MAKES 20 (8-INCH) PANCAKES