BASICS

Brines and cures

Salting and brining are age-old processes that were used to preserve meat and fish in the days before refrigeration, as salt naturally stops bacteria from growing by dehydrating the cells in the proteins. We now mainly use this process to add intrinsic seasoning and flavour to whatever we are working with. Due to salt’s dehydrating properties, it also changes the texture of proteins and makes them easier to cook when grilling or pan-roasting.

Salting is an important part of the cold-smoking process, particularly if what you are cold-smoking won’t be cooked afterwards.

We usually dilute wet brines before using them for larger cuts, such as a whole chicken, so the meat can spend longer in the brine without becoming too salty. The recipes include diluting instructions where needed.

Make sure any containers you use for brining are non-reactive – that is, not aluminium – as this can react with the brine and taint the meat.

Dry fish cure

Makes about 500g (1lb 2oz)

250g (1¼ cups) coarse sea salt

250g (1¼ cups) caster (superfine) sugar

finely grated zest ½ lemon

½ tsp fennel seeds, crushed

¼ tsp black peppercorns, crushed

Mix everything together, then use to cure fish as per the recipe requirements. This can be stored in an airtight container for 3 months.

Blackening rub

Makes about 100g (3½oz)

80g (3oz) smoked hot paprika

2 cloves garlic, finely grated

1 tsp thyme leaves, finely chopped

1½ Tbsp dark muscovado (brown) sugar

2½ tsp coarse sea salt

Mix everything together in a bowl. This will keep in an airtight container for 3 months.

Brine for red meat – duck, lamb, beef, game

Makes about 1L (4¼ cups)

100g (½ cup) coarse sea salt

50g (¼ cup) demerara (brown) sugar

1 Tbsp honey

2 bay leaves

8 black peppercorns

4 cloves

Place all the ingredients in a medium non-reactive saucepan with 1 litre (4¼ cups) of water. Slowly bring to the boil, stirring as you go to dissolve the salt and sugar. Remove from the heat and allow to cool before using.

Brine for white meat – chicken and pork

Makes about 1L (4¼ cups)

100g (½ cup) coarse sea salt

50g (¼ cup) caster (superfine) sugar

zest of 1 lemon, peeled off in long strips

2 bay leaves

1 tsp coriander seeds

1 tsp fennel seeds

Place all the ingredients in a medium non-reactive saucepan with 1 litre (4¼ cups) of water. Slowly bring to the boil, stirring as you go to dissolve the salt and sugar. Remove from the heat and allow to cool before using.

Smoked salt

Smoked salt is a fantastic condiment to have on hand for when you want to add a little smoky nuance and a crunch. I love it on grilled steaks.

Makes about 250g (9oz)

You’ll also need 2 lumps of hardwood and a length of soaked wooden plank

250g (9oz) Maldon salt or other flaky sea salt

Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place the lumps of wood onto the ashen coals to start smoking, and set the plank on the grill in the indirect heat zone.

Spread the salt evenly over a baking sheet, then place on the plank and close the lid of the barbecue. Hot-smoke the salt for 1 hour or until it has turned a dark brown colour.

Remove from the barbecue and leave to cool before transferring the salt to a sealed container. The flavour of the smoked salt will improve and balance after 24 hours of resting time. This keeps very well!

Smoked butter

As this will keep well in the fridge for several weeks, even improving in flavour, I recommend you smoke two packs of butter at a time. You’ll be surprised how quickly it gets used up!

Makes 500g (about 1lb)

You’ll also need a cold-smoking device and some wood chips

500g (about 1lb) cold unsalted butter

Set up the cold-smoking device in the barbecue with the wood chips and get it going.

Dice the butter evenly and lay it out on a baking sheet in a single layer. Place the sheet on the rack in the barbecue, close the lid and vent and cold-smoke the butter for 1 hour. Transfer the butter to a container, cover and leave in the fridge for at least 2 hours before using.

Chorizo ketchup

Here is my spicy version of the classic tomato ketchup. The chorizo adds an interesting, smoky tang. This is great with burgers, breakfasts, grilled fish and just about everything else!

Makes about ½L (4¼ cups)

½ large red (bell) pepper, cored, deseeded and sliced

½ red onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1 red chilli, finely chopped

150g (5½ oz) spicy cooking chorizo, peeled and finely diced

½ Tbsp ground cumin

1 Tbsp smoked hot paprika

750g (1lb 10oz) ripe plum tomatoes, cut into quarters

1 Tbsp tomato purée (paste)

50ml (3½ Tbsp) cider vinegar or white wine vinegar

50g (¼ cup) demerara (brown) sugar

olive oil, for cooking

sea salt and black pepper

Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking.

Place a saucepan on the barbecue in the direct heat zone and add a lug of olive oil. Add the pepper, onion, garlic and chilli and cook, stirring, for 7–8 minutes until softened. Now add the chorizo, cumin and paprika and cook, stirring, for 10 minute, or until the chorizo and spices are cooked and the natural fat from the chorizo has been released.

Stir in the tomatoes, tomato purée, vinegar and sugar, then move the pan to the indirect heat zone and cook for about 1–1½ hours, stirring every so often, until the ketchup is rich and thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

The ketchup will keep for approximately 2 weeks in a sealed container or jar in the fridge.

Alioli

Alioli is simply a mayonnaise flavoured with garlic. This simple sauce is incredibly versatile and a great base for adding your favourite flavours – chopped fresh herbs, grain mustard, chilli, horseradish, you name it.

Makes 200ml (about ¾ cup)

1 large free-range egg yolk

½ garlic clove, very finely chopped

1 small teaspoon Dijon mustard

100ml (generous ¹/₃ cup) vegetable oil

100ml (generous ¹/₃ cup) extra virgin olive oil

white wine vinegar, to taste

lemon juice, to taste

sea salt and white pepper

In a bowl, whisk the egg yolk with the garlic and mustard. Slowly add the oils, whisking constantly to emulsify. When all the oil has been added, season with salt and pepper and add vinegar and lemon juice to taste.

Mojo verde

This exotic salsa hails from the Canary Islands where the North-African influence on food and culture is prominent. I use this on most things but it’s especially recommended on grilled meats – straight from the BBQ, the hot flesh of the meat absorbing the hot, piquant flavours of the salsa on contact.

Makes about 400ml (1¾ cups)

1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley

1 small bunch coriander (cilantro)

½ bunch mint

1 garlic clove, peeled

1 tsp ground cumin

1 green chilli, deseeded

50ml (3½ Tbsp) red wine vinegar

120ml (½ cup) extra virgin olive oil

sea salt and black pepper, for seasoning

Place all the ingredients except the oil and seasoning into a food processor and start to process. Gradually pour in the oil until you have a thick green purée. Season to taste.

Crunchy shallot and garlic salsa cruda

This really simple salsa is an ace accompaniment to grilled meats and fish, adding texture, freshness and a punch of flavour.

Makes 50–60g (about 4 Tbsp)

1 large banana shallot, or 2 medium-sized ones, finely chopped

1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 Tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 Tbsp olive oil

juice of ½ lemon

sea salt and black pepper

Just mix all the ingredients together, seasoning to taste and adding the lemon juice at the last minute.

Sweet pastry

My pastry stalwart, this recipe has been with me for many years. It’s a classic and makes the best, crispest pastry for tarts.

Makes enough for one 20cm (8in) tart

250g (1¾ cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting

50g (¹/₃ cup) icing (confectioners’) sugar

pinch of salt

125g (½ cup) unsalted butter, cut into cubes

1 egg, lightly beaten

4 tsp full-cream (whole) milk

Sift the flour, sugar and salt into a bowl, then add the butter and rub in to form rough crumbs. Add the egg and milk and mix to incorporate. Bring the dough together into a ball and dust lightly with flour, then wrap in cling film and chill for at least 30 minutes. Bring the pastry back to room temperature before rolling it out.

Smoked bitter chocolate

Smoked chocolate is a revelation, whether you eat it raw or melted and cooked into a pudding. At Ember Yard, we tried several methods and types of chocolate but found that those with a cocoa content of 70% or more works best. I’ve used pistols (buttons) as they are all the same size, so they absorb the smoke evenly. It’s imperative that you leave the chocolate for 24 hours after smoking to allow the flavours to settle and balance.

Makes about 250g (9oz)

You’ll also need a cold-smoking device and some oak wood dust

250g (9oz) bitter chocolate (at least 70% cocoa) buttons, or a block cut into small, even-sized chunks

Set up the cold-smoking device in the barbecue with the wood dust and get it going.

Place the chocolate in a single layer on a baking sheet. Transfer to the barbecue, then close the lid and vent and cold-smoke the chocolate for 45 minutes. Transfer the chocolate to a container, seal and leave for 24 hours before using.

Salted caramel

Salted caramel has become a food fashion icon of late and is ubiquitous on menus up and down the land. I have to say I absolutely love the combination (call me a fashion victim if you like) of sweet, burnt caramel and salt. It’s one of those very few flavours that send your taste buds to heaven and back.

Makes about 350ml (1½ cups)

250g (1¹/₃ cups) golden caster (superfine) sugar

120ml (½ cup) double (heavy) cream

25g (1½ Tbsp) unsalted butter

½ tsp sea salt flakes

Place the sugar and 80ml (¹/₃ cup) water in a small heavy-based saucepan. Bring to the boil over medium heat and cook until you have a deep golden-brown syrup. Don’t stir it, or the sugar might re-crystallize, but swirl the pan every so often.

Remove the pan from the heat and pour in the cream (be careful – it will spit). Stir to incorporate, then whisk in the butter and salt. This will keep for up to 2 weeks in the fridge.