Ember-cooked beetroot with horseradish pickle
This is partially inspired by my Jewish grandmother, Ada, who passed away at the grand old age of 103. She came from a strict Jewish background, and she was a fantastic cook. One of her classics was a beetroot and horseradish pickle called chraine, which she served with everything from fried fish to roasts and cold meats, and everything in-between. I’ve cooked the beetroot in embers to put my twist on it, and added some caraway, but the memory of Ada’s repertoire lives on!
3 medium beetroot, washed and stalks trimmed
1 tsp caraway seeds
1 x 7.5cm (3in) piece fresh horseradish, peeled and roughly chopped – or more if you like it really hot and punchy!
1 garlic clove, roughly chopped
3 Tbsp Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar or other red wine vinegar
1½ tsp caster (superfine) sugar
2 tsp fine salt
olive oil, for cooking
sea salt and black pepper
Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking.
Wrap the beetroot individually in foil, adding a splash of olive oil, some salt and pepper and a third of the caraway seeds to each one before sealing.
When the charcoal is ashen grey, use long-handled tongs to carefully nestle the beetroot parcels into the coals, burying them so they are completely covered. Cook for about 1 hour or until tender – a knife inserted into the beetroot should glide in without any resistance.
Leave the beetroot parcels to cool, then remove the foil and peel the skins; save the caraway seeds for the pickle blend. Roughly chop the beetroot, then transfer to a food processor, along with the horseradish, garlic, vinegar, sugar and salt, and the reserved roasted caraway seeds. Blend to a rough purée, then check the seasoning.
Transfer to a Kilner-style jar, then seal and leave to marinate for at least 2 hours in the fridge before using. The pickle will continue to improve and develop over time and will keep for up to 4 weeks in the fridge.