Smoked mashed potato

This wickedly naughty mash comes with the added bonus of smokiness from oak-smoked milk and cream – it works a treat and adds a natural sweetness to the potatoes. My favourite potato for mashing is the red-skinned Desiree as it has firm, creamy flesh that doesn’t absorb too much water on cooking; Maris Piper makes a good substitute.

Serves 4

You’ll also need a cold-smoking device and some oak chips

100ml (generous 1/3 cup) double (heavy) cream

75ml (1/3 cup) full-cream (whole) milk

600g (1lb 5oz) Desiree potatoes, peeled

50g (3½ Tbsp) unsalted butter, diced sea salt and white pepper

Set up the cold-smoking device in the barbecue with the oak chips and get it going, then place the grill rack on top.

Pour the cream and milk into a medium bowl, then place on the rack and close the lid and vent of the barbecue. Cold-smoke for 1 hour, then remove the bowl from the barbecue and leave to rest for 1 hour.

Cut the potatoes into even chunks, then place in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Season with salt. Bring to the boil on the stovetop, then simmer until the potatoes are nice and tender. Drain, then return the potatoes to the hot pan and let them steam-dry for 2 minutes.

Mash the potatoes or press through a potato ricer or masher into a bowl. Pour in the smoked cream and milk and stir in the butter. Season to taste, then serve immediately.