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Tyrolean Rye Bread with Fennel and Cumin/Ur-Paarl della Val Venosta

No-Knead Italian “Baguettes”/Filoni (senza impanare)

Homemade Bread with Mother Yeast from Molise/Pane spiga

Whole-Wheat Rolls/Panini di San Giovanni

Whole-Wheat Country Loaves/Pane casareccio integrale

Whole-Wheat Cracker Rings with Black Pepper and Fennel Seeds/Taralli integrali con pepe e finocchio

“E’ meglio pane e cepolla ‘a casa toja ca galline e fassano ‘n casa d’autre.”
“It’s better to have bread and onions in your own home than hens and pheasants in the home of another.”
—Italian proverb

One of my greatest hopes for this book is that it changes the way non-Italians think about “Italian” bread. There isn’t just one kind of bread in Italy—there are thousands. Like all other authentic traditional foods in the country, each town, region, and province claims its own types of bread. Some of Italy’s historic bread recipes are so interwoven with the culture at large that they are considered part of the nation’s intangible cultural heritage and are protected by organizations such as Slow Food.

The bread traditions in each Italian region do a fantastic job of representing the various cultural influences that exist in particular areas. Take the Tyrolean Rye Bread with Fennel and Cumin recipe, for example; this recipe reveals northern Italy’s Austrian influence, and it is very different from the stereotypical “Italian bread.” This rye bread is so special that it is now protected by Slow Food, an international movement that strives to preserve traditional and regional cuisines and local food cultures. Whole-Wheat Cracker Rings with Black Pepper and Fennel Seeds, on the other hand, strongly embody the more Mediterranean-inspired traditions of the south.

In order to understand Italian bread, one must know a little bit about the way it has been artisanally prepared for millennia. In the Italian language, there are two words for bakeries. The first is panifici, which refers to bread bakeries that make the traditional breads of the area along with festival and holiday fruit-and-nut–studded breads, crackers, savory pies, crunchy bread sticks, and simple biscotti recipes. Some members of my family in Crotone, Italy, run a panificio.

Whenever the term artigiano (meaning “craftsman”) accompanies the word bakery in Italian, it means that the establishment has met specific, government-mandated criteria for using particular ingredients, preparation methods, and techniques that are in accordance with Italian culinary standards. In short, if you buy bread baked in one of these bakeries, you are getting the real thing. Unfortunately, the newer generation of Italians is not as enthusiastic about getting up in the middle of the night to follow in the baking footsteps of their forefathers.

Italians eat more bread per capita than any other nation in Europe. It is an integral part of Italian culture. However, if artisanal bakeries continue to fall out of fashion, the appeal and healthfulness of traditional Italian cuisine will suffer. Luckily, Italians from north to south celebrate sagre (see Side Dishes/Contorni), or food festivals, for bread just as they do for produce. These festivals are a great way to highlight the specialties of the various regions and prevent traditional recipes from becoming extinct.

One of the practices that distinguishes artisan bread from other breads is the use of “natural fermentation of yeast.” Instead of beginning with chemical yeast, artisan bread bakers and pizza makers in Italy use (sometimes centuries-old) yeast starters made from grapes, figs, dates, or other fruits that were left to ferment naturally. Some of the most important bakers in Italy are actually chemists who have perfected the ancient yeast-fermenting technique into an art form. Nothing compares to the flavor, aroma, and texture of bread prepared with natural yeast.

When you break open a loaf of bread made the traditional way, it does not have a strong “yeasty” odor. It usually has a dense, tender crumb and a crunchy exterior. Although they contain only a few ingredients, artisan breads seem like a meal in themselves; they are so satisfying, comforting, and filling. Try the Homemade Bread with Mother Yeast from Molise recipe if you would like to give a natural starter a shot in your own kitchen. It’s easier than you may think—and you’ll be delighted with the results. If you don’t like to knead, the No-Knead Italian “Baguettes” will be a welcome addition to your repertoire.

When deciding which bread to serve with a meal, there are two factors to consider. First, consider how “heavy” the meal is and how much carbohydrate it already contains, and then take into account the region from which your first and/or second courses come. If you are making a meal that contains both a filling pasta dish and second course, you may want to forgo bread. In this sense, Italian cultural sensibilities fit well with a diabetes-friendly lifestyle. If, on the other hand, you are serving a soup and salad, or a second course and salad, then healthy, homemade bread would help to complete the meal. Considering the region that your recipe comes from is also important. It is not advisable to serve Tyrolean Rye Bread with Fennel and Cumin (a northern recipe) with a tomato-based first course and seafood second course from the south. It would, however, taste great with a hearty, legume-based minestra or a roasted dish.

Tyrolean Rye Bread with Fennel and Cumin
(Ur-Paarl della Val Venosta)

Makes: 8 (8-inch) loaves | Serves: 24 | Serving Size: 1/3 loaf
Prep Time: 5 minutes (plus 3 1/2 hours rising time) | Cooking Time: 25–40 minutes

The full German name of this bread is Ur-Paarl nach Klosterart, which means “the original double rye bread in the manner of the convent.” It is the oldest variety of Vinschger Paarl bread, which is common in northeastern Italy—where strong German and Austrian influences prevail. This bread is so special that the Slow Food Movement in Italy is preserving the recipe as part of the region’s culinary heritage. Luckily, this recipe is easily adaptable to modern kitchens, and it’s a unique addition to anyone’s repertoire.

Sourdough Starter
2 cups rye flour
3/4 cup lukewarm water
1 teaspoon active dry yeast

Dough
2 cups rye flour
3 cups wheat flour or gluten-free flour, plus extra for work surface
4 teaspoons active dry yeast, dissolved in 3 cups lukewarm water
1 teaspoon unrefined sea salt
2 tablespoons fennel seeds
1 tablespoon cumin seeds

1. Combine all the starter ingredients in a small bowl. Stir slowly for 5 minutes, and then use your knuckles to knead the mixture for 5 minutes. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and allow to rest for 2 hours.

2. After 2 hours have elapsed, mix the starter with the remaining bread ingredients to form a smooth dough. Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for 10–15 minutes. Place in bowl, cover with a clean kitchen towel, and allow to rise for 1 hour.

3. On a lightly floured work surface, punch down the dough and divide into 8 equally sized balls.

4. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Place 4 balls on each sheet. Press the center of the balls down to form flattened disks with 2 disks side by side, touching, so that they will puff up and stay connected while baking. This will give them their signature double shape.

5. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and allow to rise for another 30 minutes.

6. Preheat oven to 400°F.

7. Bake for 25–40 minutes, or until bread is lightly golden on top and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom.

Italian Living Tradition

This bread is now baked daily in bakeries of the Alpine region, but it was once baked only two to three times a year in wood-burning ovens by farmers. Before industrialization in the 1950s, many local farmers grew rye, which flourished in the dry climate. Nowadays, the Slow Food Movement has begun initiatives to reintroduce the heritage varieties of the grain, and about a dozen farmers have begun planting rye again on their farms.

Choices/Exchanges 1 1/2 Starch

No-Knead Italian “Baguettes”
(Filoni [senza impanare])

Makes: 1 long baguette | Serves: 14 | Serving Size: 1 (3/4-inch) slice
Prep Time: 15 minutes (plus 2 hours rising time) | Cooking Time: 30 minutes

Kneading bread is one of the activities that provides a great deal of pleasure in my life. I realize, however, that not everyone feels this way. If you’ve never made bread before, you’ll be astounded by how easy it is to prepare this delicious loaf, which has a crunchy crust and tender interior. Filoni is the Italian word for “baguettes,” and they are the type of bread that we often refer to as “Italian” in the U.S. These baguettes can be made in advance, wrapped in plastic, and frozen until needed.

1 tablespoon active dry yeast
1 1/2 cups warm water (110–115°F), divided
1 tablespoon sugar
4 cups all-purpose flour OR 2 cups corn flour and 2 cups gluten-free flour, divided
1 teaspoon unrefined sea salt
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1/2 ounce cornmeal

1. In the bowl of a mixer (or a large mixing bowl), mix yeast into 1/2 cup warm water. Mix well until combined. Let the mixture sit in the bowl for 4–5 minutes, until yeast is dissolved.

2. Add sugar, 2 cups flour (or the gluten-free flour), and remaining 1 cup water to the bowl; mix with mixer (or with wooden spoon) until smooth. The dough will resemble a batter. Let stand for 10 minutes or so, until mixture rises and bubbles a little in the bowl.

3. Add in salt, 1 tablespoon oil, and 1/2 cup flour (or corn flour); mix. Continue adding flour or corn flour, 1/2 cup at a time, and mixing it in until it is all added. Mix until the dough forms a ball. Dump the ball of dough on the countertop, and gather it into a ball.

4. Grease another mixing bowl with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Place the dough into the bowl and turn to coat. Cover with a kitchen towel and place in an oven set to the proof setting (about 100°F), or cover with additional towels and set in a warm place. Allow dough to rise until it doubles in size, about 1 hour.

5. Turn risen dough onto a floured surface, and roll and pull until you’ve shaped a 16-inch-long loaf. (You can also make two 8-inch loaves.) Place the loaf on a greased baking sheet sprinkled with the cornmeal.

6. Cover the loaf with a clean kitchen towel and let rise until it doubles in size, about 45 minutes.

7. Make 6–8 diagonal slashes in the top of the loaf using a very sharp knife. Bake at 400°F for 25–30 minutes, or until nicely browned. Cool on wire rack.

Italian Living Tradition

Each Italian region has dozens of types of artisanal breads that are sold in panifici—or bread bakeries. Good-quality bread is highly appreciated in Italy, and many people still prefer to buy their bread from an artisan bakery that has been making bread with the same high-quality ingredients for centuries, rather than buying something at a supermarket. Panifici can be found in almost every shopping center in urban and residential areas in Italy.

Choices/Exchanges 2 Starch

Homemade Bread with Mother Yeast from Molise
(Pane spiga)

Makes: 1 large (14–16-inch) loaf | Serves: 18 | Serving Size: 1 (3/4-inch) slice
Prep Time: 15 minutes (plus 4 days rest for starter yeast and dough rising time) | Cooking Time: 40 minutes

The region of Molise is known for its wonderful variety of high-quality grains. This recipe makes flattened bread that was traditionally prepared in a communal oven. The bread takes its Italian name from the v-shaped slits that are traditionally made down the sides of the bread before baking. These slits cause the bread to resemble wheat sheaves, which are called “ears” (spiga) in Italian.

Keep in mind that in order to create a mother yeast from scratch, you will need to begin making this bread 4 days in advance. I suggest starting on a Wednesday so you can enjoy the bread on Sunday. Making the yeast couldn’t be easier, but it needs time to rest and “refresh,” as we say in the baking world. The result is a highly perfumed bread with a crisp crust and a tender, hole-studded crumb that is so complex it barely needs an accompaniment.

Mother Yeast
1 1/4 cups 00 flour (such as Antimo Caputo brand) or all-purpose flour, divided
2 tablespoons plain, organic yogurt
1 tablespoon honey
1/4 cup lukewarm water (or as much as necessary to create a unified yet soft, batter-like dough)

Bread
4 cups bread flour, plus extra for work surface and dusting
1/2–1 cup tepid water
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon unrefined sea salt

1. Begin making the mother yeast by combining 3/4 cup 00 flour, yogurt, honey, and water in a medium bowl. Mix well to combine. The goal is to achieve a batter-like dough. (If your batter is too thick, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, mixing after each addition, until it looks like a light cookie dough.) Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and then seal with aluminum foil. Allow the mixture to sit at room temperature for 48 hours. During that time, it will begin to ferment, and you will notice bubbles at the top.

2. Once the 48 hours have passed, add an additional 1/2 cup 00 flour and 2 tablespoons water. This is called “refreshing” the dough. Mix well to combine. Cover with plastic wrap and aluminum foil, and allow to rest for another 48 hours.

3. When the mother yeast is ready, combine it with the 4 cups bread flour, 1/2 cup water, olive oil, and salt. Mix well to combine. Add more water, 1 tablespoon a time, if needed, in order to make a moist dough. (The amount of water required will depend on the moisture level in your kitchen.) Once the dough forms a ball, you can stop adding water.

4. Sprinkle a clean work surface with 1–2 tablespoons bread flour. Turn the dough out onto the work surface and knead vigorously for 10 minutes, or until dough is smooth and elastic. If dough seems too heavy and is difficult to work, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, kneading after each addition, until it is easier to work.

5. Once the dough is smooth, supple, and almost shiny in appearance, stop kneading. Sprinkle another tablespoon flour on the work surface and place the dough on top. Sprinkle the top with 1/2 teaspoon flour, and place a clean kitchen towel over the top. Cover with 2 additional clean kitchen towels and allow to rise overnight, or for a minimum of 6 hours. The dough should be almost doubled in size.

6. Punch the dough down and shape it into an oblong baguette, approximately 14–16 inches long. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and allow to rest for 1 more hour.

7. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Heat oven to 425°F. Working from the center of the loaf to the edges, and making sure not to cut through the bottom of the bread, make 4 equally spaced slash marks down the length of the loaf. Make 4 additional slash marks on the other side—this will give the bread its characteristic “ear-like” design while it bakes.

8. Place the bread in the oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 375°F. Bake until golden, about 30–40 minutes. When the bread is finished baking, it should sound hollow when tapped on the bottom.

Italian Living Tradition

In Molise, this bread was traditionally stuffed—it was believed to be the perfect “little bag,” or m’bostarella as it is called in dialect, for students to make school sandwiches out of.

This bread was traditionally made with a mix of bread flours, water, salt, mother yeast, and sometimes even potato starch. Nowadays many people have begun substituting commercial brewers’ yeast for mother yeast, but the old-fashioned preparation is so easy that I have decided to include it here. Making this bread is a fun project to do with children; they will enjoy watching the yeast form and the bread come together with just a few simple ingredients.

Choices/Exchanges 2 Starch

Whole-Wheat Rolls
(Panini di San Giovanni)

Makes: 16 bun-size rolls | Serves: 16 | Serving Size: 1 roll
Prep Time: 15 minutes (plus 2 hours rising time) | Cooking Time: 25 minutes

Many regional Italian bread recipes have been around since antiquity. The more interesting ones may have originally been used as offerings to the gods. With the advent of Christianity, they were prepared for saints’ days. This is St. Jonathan’s—or San Giovanni’s—bread. It is made with a mixture of grains known as crusca (see Italian Living Tradition).

1/2 cup mixed rye flour and spelt or oat flour
2 1/2 cups whole-wheat flour or additional rye flour
2 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour or corn flour, plus extra for work surface
1 1/4 cups lukewarm water (more if needed)
2 1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast
1 teaspoon unrefined sea salt
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

1. Mix and combine all flours, water, yeast, and salt in a large bowl. If necessary, add another 1/2 cup water, or enough to make a smooth dough that is not too hard to work.

2. Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for 10 minutes, until smooth and elastic. (Note that it is always better to work with a dough that seems slightly moist. If you resist the urge to add too much flour, the bread will have a lighter crumb.)

3. Place dough in a large bowl coated with the olive oil. Turn dough to coat. Cover and allow dough to rise for 1 hour.

4. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and a dusting of flour. Dust a work surface with flour and place the dough on it. Shape the dough into 8 equal-size pieces and roll into smooth balls. Place balls on the baking sheet, cover with a clean kitchen towel, and allow to rise until doubled in size, at least 1 more hour.

5. Preheat oven to 350°F. Bake rolls until golden and cooked through, approximately 20–25 minutes.

Italian Living Tradition

Prior to the Industrial Revolution, the milling of wheat, and wheat itself, was often heavily taxed in Italy. Peasants could not afford finely milled grains, or to be choosy about which grains they ate. Instead, they made the best recipes they could out of the grains that were left over from milling. Barley, rye, oats, and other grains that were originally used to feed livestock would be combined and used in bread and pasta recipes; this mixture of grains was called crusca. Realizing that this practice made it easier for people to avoid taxes, medieval rulers often banned the milling of crusca.

Choices/Exchanges 2 Starch

Whole-Wheat Country Loaves
(Pane casareccio integrale)

Makes: 2 (4 ×12-inch) loaves | Serves: 12 | Serving Size: 2 (1-inch) pieces
Prep Time: 15 minutes (plus 2 1/2 hours rising time) | Cooking Time: Approximately 40 minutes

This is simple, crusty bread from Calabria. It is perfect for soaking up the sauce from hearty, tomato-based stews, and it is best eaten on the day it is baked. Leftover, day-old pieces can be used for bruschetta, bread crumbs, or croutons. It can also be frozen, defrosted, and reheated in a 400°F oven for approximately 5 minutes, or until warm. To slice it, use a long, serrated knife, and cut 1-inch slices on the diagonal. For extra-crusty bread, place a baking pan with a shallow layer of boiling water on the bottom shelf in the oven while the bread is baking, or spray the walls of the oven with water after it is preheated.

1 package active dry yeast
1 1/4 cups warm water, divided
3 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour OR 1 1/2 cups rye flour and 1 1/2 cups corn flour, plus extra for work surface
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or kosher salt
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
2 tablespoons semolina or rye flour

1. Dissolve yeast in 1/4 cup warm water in a small bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes until it bubbles.

2. Put flour, sugar, and salt into a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients; add the dissolved yeast and another cup warm water. Mix well to form a dough. If the dough seems sticky, add more flour, 1 tablespoon at a time. (But be aware that adding too much flour will make the bread tough.) If the dough seems too dry and will not form a ball, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time.Place the dough ball on a lightly floured work surface. Knead the dough by punching it down and pushing it, with both hands, away from you, then pulling it back towards you. Continue kneading the dough, using the back-and-forth motion, for approximately 5 minutes, or until you have a smooth, soft, and elastic dough.

3. Line a large bowl with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Place the dough into the bowl, and turn to coat with olive oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and then clean kitchen towels. Place it in a draft-free area and allow it to rise until doubled in size. This will take 1–1 1/2 hours.

4. When dough has risen, preheat the oven to 425°F.

5. Punch down the dough. Dust a baking stone or baking sheet with the semolina or rye flour. Divide the dough into 2 equal-size pieces. Place the dough pieces on the baking stone or sheet and form them in to 2 (4 ×12-inch) loaves. Make sure there is at least 4–5 inches between loaves so that when they rise, they will not stick together—or use separate baking sheets. Loosely cover with a clean kitchen towel and allow to rise for 1 more hour.

6. Uncover the bread; make 4 (1/8-inch) slits on the diagonal across each loaf. Brush each loaf with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Bake for 15 minutes.

7. Lower the temperature of the oven to 400°F and bake for 25 minutes, or until bread is golden brown. Allow to cool slightly. Serve warm.

Italian Living Tradition

Bread is taken very seriously in Italy. More than a mere culinary staple, bread is the cornerstone of the Italian culture, which takes deep pride in simply transforming the gifts of nature. Bread in Italy is even used metaphorically to express the pleasant mannerisms of people. Someone with a good character, for example, would be called “good...like bread.” A big-hearted person would be “warm...like bread.” If someone were flexible and easy to work with, they would be “soft…like bread.” The list of Italian bread metaphors is endless.

Choices/Exchanges 1 1/2 Starch, 1/2 Fat

Whole-Wheat Cracker Rings with Black Pepper and Fennel Seeds

Whole-Wheat Cracker Rings with Black Pepper and Fennel Seeds
(Taralli integrali con pepe e finocchio)

Makes: 18–24 bread rings | Serves: 6–8 | Serving Size: 3 bread rings
Prep Time: 15 minutes (plus 2 1/2 hours rising time) | Cooking Time: 15–20 minutes

The southern Italian provinces of Lazio, Molise, Puglia, Basilicata, Campania, Abruzzo, and Calabria all share the tradition of serving taralli—crunchy, cracker-like breads—with appetizers. In the old days, drying out these crackers was a way of preserving them. Today, they are a matter of taste and tradition. In Calabria, these crackers are prepared for the feast of St. Anthony. Traditional shapes for these crackers include rings, ropes, braids, sticks, and horseshoes. Wrapped in clear cellophane bags with a pretty tie, taralli make elegant gifts. I like to serve them with Sicilian Sweet-and-Sour Vegetable Medley, Southern Italian Fava Bean Purée, and almost any soup, along with olives and cheese.

2 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast
3/4 cup lukewarm water, divided
2 cups whole-wheat flour or gluten-free baking mix, plus extra for work surface
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
1/4 teaspoon crushed red chile flakes
1/2 teaspoon unrefined sea salt
3 tablespoons plus 1/2 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil, divided
1 egg white, lightly beaten

1. In a small bowl, dissolve yeast with 1/4 cup lukewarm water.

2. Place the flour, pepper, fennel seeds, chile flakes, and salt in a large bowl. Add the yeast mixture, an additional 1/2 cup lukewarm water, and 3 tablespoons olive oil. Mix well to combine and form a dough.

3. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead energetically, adding a little more flour if needed, for about 8–10 minutes, until the dough is smooth and elastic.

4. Oil a large bowl with remaining 1/2 teaspoon olive oil and place the dough inside. Turn dough to coat with oil, and cover with plastic wrap and clean kitchen towels. Allow to rise until doubled in size, approximately 1 1/2 hours.

5. Preheat oven to 375°F.

6. Remove dough from bowl and break off a small chunk. Roll into a 6-inch rope that is approximately the width of a pencil, and form into a circle. Pinch the ends together tightly, and place ring on an ungreased baking sheet. Repeat with the rest of the dough. Cover rings with a clean kitchen towel and allow to rise until doubled in size, approximately 1 hour.

7. Brush tops of the rings with the egg white and bake until light golden, 15–20 minutes. Remove, cool on a rack, and store in a tightly covered container for up to a month.

Italian Living Tradition

Making bread dough from scratch can be labor-intensive, but it is worth the effort! In order to make this recipe more user-friendly, there are a few shortcuts you can take. First of all, the dough can be “kneaded” with a dough hook in a standing mixer. And instead of waiting for the dough to rise for 1 1/2 hours at room temperature, it can be covered well and left in the refrigerator for 12 hours or overnight. Then it can be rolled out and shaped into rings the following day. These crackers stay fresh for a month at room temperature, or they can be frozen for up to 6 months.

Choices/Exchanges 1 1/2 Starch, 1 Fat